What calibers have you all found to be the easiest to tune for 1 mile shooting? I know the 6.5x47 and br cartridges are the ones easy to tune for shorter ranges, but what about cartridges for a mile? Thank you
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Easy to tune calibers
- Thread starter jaybigboy34
- Start date
Yes. It's very consistent. I will probably switch to Lapua once I run out of Norma but the Norma has been excellent.
My .300 PRC has been pretty easy, too. With 3 different bullets now I've picked a starting charge and done every .2gr for a full grain and somewhere in there is at least 1 or 2 groups that knot them up. The worst SD's I've seen have been in the mid teens, the best being in the low single digits. Overlaying the data from several range trips, total SD on my 225gr load was 7.4 FPS for a 30 shot composite data set.
Even running factory ammo I got .4-.5" 5-shot groups and had no problem tagging 12" and 16" plates at 1000. All misses as far as I could tell were left and right side (wind).
Even running factory ammo I got .4-.5" 5-shot groups and had no problem tagging 12" and 16" plates at 1000. All misses as far as I could tell were left and right side (wind).
.338 LM also good choice and easy to turn. I have had hit with 27in barrel in my AI out to 2616 yards at ELR matches. Took very little load development to get a 1/2 moa load. I am shooting the Berger 300 Hybrids. Here is my load
90.2 Retumbo
215m
Lapua Brass
Berger 300 Hybrid
C.O.AL. is 3.765 (fits in my mag)
AVG FPS 2765
90.2 Retumbo
215m
Lapua Brass
Berger 300 Hybrid
C.O.AL. is 3.765 (fits in my mag)
AVG FPS 2765
I reload my 338 Norma on a Forster Co-Ax press. Dies are custom Whidden bushing dies (I shoot an improved Norma magnum; the dies were made from the reamer print).
Reloading components:
-Norma brass
-Berger 300 grain OTM
-Retumbo for fireforming virgin brass (~2775 fps), RL33/N570 in the formed cases (~2920 fps)
-Fed 215s
Process for virgin brass:
1. Expand necks with .339 expander mandrel (lube first with dry neck lube)
2. Size necks to give two thou tension (measure case neck thickness with a ball micrometer to determine the right bushing)
3. Wipe off neck lube with paper towel/Q-tip
4. Chamfer neck in/out with Wilson trimming tool
5. Seat primer with Sinclair priming tool
6. Weigh powder on A&D FX-120i
7. Seat bullet ten thou off lands (seat twice, rotating cartridge 90 degrees in between seatings); COAL determined with Hornady COAL tool
Process for fired brass:
1. De-prime without neck bushing (neck size later, after tumbling)
2. Tumble in stainless media
3. Anneal with propane blow torch (my own setup)
4. Bump shoulder back two thou using sizing die without neck bushing (I anneal after tumbling because I like the look of annealed brass)
5. Re-insert neck bushing, lube necks, and size necks to give two thou tension
6. Wipe off lube
7. Seat primer
8. Weigh powder
9. Seat bullet ten thou off lands (seat twice as above)
I rarely trim brass. My cartridge has a 40 degree shoulder and case length is very stable. If necessary, I will trim fired brass between steps 4 and 5 above. This process has given me awesome precision for both virgin and formed brass. Both loads are consistently 0.25 MOA no BS (Robert Gradous deserves a lot of the credit for that level of precision as well). YMMV. Good luck.
For 300 Norma,,,, that are finicky,,,, I recommend reloader 33
