F-TR build suggestions?

Tgwhitley

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Minuteman
Sep 26, 2021
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Would like to build a 308 FTR budget is concern but not overriding factor. Suggestions appreciated on all components for rifle no glass at this time please.
If someone can point me to link that would be great, did quick search and found no information specific to my request. I am not experienced using this site.

Thank you
Tim
 
Hey Tim,

I'd suggest looking at the Berger SWN equipment lists for the past 3-4 years. I can save you some time though..

Action: Borden BRM or Kelbly Panda F-Class
Barrels: 29-31" finished length, 1:10 twist , Kreiger/Bart/Brux in a HV contour.
Trigger: Jewell, Bix, or Flavio down around 2-4oz
Stock: McMillan XITs, Master Class Stocks, Kelbly, something else custom? I'd push you towards an XIT with a RAD 2A personally. Mine don't have much recoil at all with the RAD, meanwhile it's a 308 shooting a 200gr bullet like 3-4gr over book max.
Bipod: Joypod or Phoenix
Reamer: A SAMMI .308 win with a .170-.180fb and a .342 neck is what you want for the 20x with unturned palma brass. 1 deg 30. Get it from JGS.
Rings: I like the NF Ti rings

Reloading Gear:
It matters in F-Class...a lot more than PRS if that's what you're coming from.
Bullets: Just shoot the 20x, don't even try anything else. Nothing is as good at 1k. Closer in you can get away with 185 jugs, but 20Xs are still the gold standard.
Powders: Varget or N150
Sizers: Doesn't matter the brand. FL bushing. Many National championships won with off the shelf dies/bushings. I use custom Whidden dies, but they don't shoot any different than a box stock redding or the like.
Seaters: Most are seating w/ Arbors using in-line seaters. The sinclair "click adjust" inline seaters by Wilson are really nice.
You'll probably want an AMP
You'll probably want an auto-trickler
I turn on a 21st powered lathe...just down to .014...enough to get a 100% cut, but not trying to take much off. Some guys report shooting really well without turning. Can of worms debate there.

Reloding advice:
You want to get the 20x moving about ~2615-2650fps; that's the fastest reasonably achievable node. It is what everyone else will be running in their guns.

In Palma brass, with N150 that usually means starting around 44gr and testing up to 44.8gr. With Varget that usually means starting at 43.6 and going up to 44.6 (varget has more variation). Don't try to find a load using low ES/SD in TR. Follow the target. Depth nodes are usually around ~.012-.018 off for my reamer. I don't know anyone jamming the 20x, and the farthest you commonly hear people run the 20x is ~.030 off.


You say not to mention a scope, but it gets kinda important due to the weight restrictions. The above configuration will allow you to run an NF Comp, Vortex Golden Eagle, or March HM. Anything heavier than those (~30oz) will be close to putting you over the limit.

Both my TR guns are 17.9x lbs with the bipods. I run them on Pandas/XITs/NF Comps, and will make minor adjustments to weight by adjusting barrel length.

Here is the 2022 equipment list:
1646072693851.png


Next latest equipment list I could find was for 2018:
 
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easy with brass prep and all those nonsense:

 
Tim- Mike's info is spot on. Don't try an reinvent the wheel. You may well find a used rifle all ready to go. Even if the barrel is on it's last legs, having a new one spun up is no big deal.
 
Trying to revive this thread. My daughter just won her first FTR match with the local club with a 589 at 600yds and she could have done better if it were not for the sun suddenly coming out of the clouds and blinding her causing frustration. She is currently shooting a .223Rem with a very low budget build that was the first I ever built. The rifle obviously shoots well but my daughter has the potential to do really well. With that in mind, i am looking to take her to the next level.

She currently has a Golden Eagle and has access to Phoenix and JoyPod bipods. I have all the necessary reloading components including an AMP, Henderson trimmer, FX scale and etc. I am looking for any updated recommendations (rifle, bullet, brass, powder) since this thread is almost 3 years old.

I currently load .308 for my M14 using Lapua brass. My .308 die is a full length sizing die with bushing by redding. I use K&M arbor press with inline micrometer seating die by LEWilson.
 
Read post #2. Do that. Go over to accurateshooter.com and basically never come back here for anything f-class related. They have the collective wisdom of the entire benchrest world over there. Coming here for really good advice and help with f class is like trying to race tune a corvette using a generic Chevy maintenance manual.

+1 on Borden actions, bix triggers, small primer lapua brass (Palma), varget.
 
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FTR doesn't really change much, as there isn't any caliber chasing going on. So any changes are more incremental - a little tweak here, a little fine tuning there. Occasionally there is a big deal change in bullets, like when the Berger 155.5, 185 and 20X came out, respectively. The Berger 208 has its proponents, but hasn't seemed to supplant the 20X the way earlier generations did. Otherwise, the core components stay pretty stable.

FTR is a little more of a skill (gun handling) / wind strategy game rather than equipment / wind strategy game.
 
Read post #2. Do that. Go over to accurateshooter.com and basically never come back here for anything f-class related. They have the collective wisdom of the entire benchrest world over there. Coming here for really good advice and help with f class is like trying to race tune a corvette using a generic Chevy maintenance manual.

+1 on Borden actions, bix triggers, small primer lapua brass (Palma), varget.

great analogy... thanks