F150 owners

[atepointer]

So I've narrowed my truck search down to an F150. If you have an F150 made in the last 10 years would love to know your mileage, repairs etc. I'm definitely not going new, but other than a few of the guys I know locally with them don't know any with a lot of wear. They are 3-4 years old with maybe 10k miles a year? No problems so far....does buying a 2 or 3 year old F150 with 50k miles on it enter me into sketchy zone? I don't drive a lot at this stage in my career it's under 10k a year so at that rate could I conceivably get 10 years or 150k on one? It's been hard for me to look past Toyota I'm driving an 11 year old 4runner and I've put zero money into it other than gas rubber oil. Is an F150 like that for 100-150K?

Thanks guys....

 

[Flyinghunter]

I currently have two. A 2002 with 340k miles. Never had any serious mechanical repair issues. Still runs great. Paint is kinda rough in spots. A 2010 King Ranch with 230k, no major issues. Both had the sunroof tracking self destruct. In the shop x1 wk and around $500 to rebuild ( Indy mechanic). Both had blender door failures. Plastic $30 part that controls heat/air. But takes $1000 to remove dash to replace. .I’ll probably buy another.

 

[Waorani]

Had 3 in the last 10yrs - 2011 & 2019 w/ 5.0s and 2015 w/ Ecoboost. All got 17.5 long-term mpg (actual miles/gals - not computer). No major issues but I don't keep them long. Get a 2015-2020 w/ 6.5ft bed and I make you a great deal on an Undercover tonneau.

 

[Skunk]

Got a ‘14 Raptor with 34k on it. Just found out today one of the pinion bearings in the front differential is shot. About $3500/repair.

 

[BullGear]

Make sure you get that strong as steel aluminum bed.

 

[mfox497]

I have a 2011 5.0 with 175k. No major repairs just oil, brakes and tires. I would definitely buy again but I am not getting rid of mine anytime soon.

Oh I did have the blender door issue. $30 and I installed it my self. The dash was a pain but doable.

 

[atepointer]

Ok thanks for the info good stuff guys. What is this 'blender door' issue? I can see on the CarFax report of one I'm looking at it had a warranty repair done on a 'freezing door latch' concerns. Is that it?

 

[BLEE]

I have a 2014 F150 SuperCrew, EcoBoost, 4x4, with 90,000 miles. I have the oil changed and tires rotated, every 5,000. I had the rear camera and turn signal switch replaced, under warranty. I replaced the brakes at 55,000 miles, shocks at 70,000. Tires last about 35,000 miles per set, in mixed driving, but a lot of stop and go. It's been a great truck. I'd get another, but I'm not ready to fork out >$60,000 for the smell of new leather.

 

[oneshot86]

ive got a 10, and i dont keep track of the mileage.
the truck is 100% an asset, i love the dang thing.
i did some ac work and i replaced the plastic intake manifold. and a note on that, it isnt like years past that you want to choke the engineers, the manifold replacement wasnt bad at all.
ive worn the seats out, so i will replace them but not the truck. thumbs up on the truck, all the way

 

[Mr.Kirk]

I have a 2016 f150 lariat fx4, it’s my third f150 and a total piece of shit.

 

[E. Bryant]

Ok thanks for the info good stuff guys. What is this 'blender door' issue? I can see on the CarFax report of one I'm looking at it had a warranty repair done on a 'freezing door latch' concerns. Is that it?

A "blend door" is a part in the climate control system that routes air - one controls hot and cold (or two if you have separate temp control for driver and passenger), and one controls routing of air (floor, dash vents, defrost). Ford apparently has no clue how to buy blend door actuators (the motor and gearbox that moves the door flap) from a competent vendor, so literally every single FoMoCo product I've ever owned has broken at least one.

Sometimes it's super-easy to fix; the temperature blend door actuator in my '08 F250 was a one-hour job. Some of them require major disassembly of the dash. You do not get to pick and choose which one fails

 

[Sean the Nailer]

Ours is older than what you're looking fro, ('99) but we too have had to replace the heater-core. Also did the 'blend door' and that was an 11 hour 'book' job. It took us 6 days. But know that I'm more than gibbled, to begin with.

The point being, that 'blend door' is idiotically designed. And the 'aluminum bushing upgrade' doesn't fit properly either. So you either grind the housing plastic pivot-point away/thinner to accept the aluminum bushing, or you do without and potentially have the same broken plastic dilemma in the future.

That aside, and the real reason for me posting, is we have also replaced the rear axle of our truck specifically with a "Limited Slip" ass-end. That in itself truly makes driving in the winter (snow and ice) much better, because there is so much LESS tendency to 'always slide to one side'. Add to that, much better 'lock-up' traction and forward impetus,,,, driving is definitely 'more-gooder'.

 

[Gommer]

Got a ‘14 Raptor with 34k on it. Just found out today one of the pinion bearings in the front differential is shot. About $3500/repair.

I'm assuming that's under warranty and that's the warranty price, of which you paid none? Sorry to butt into the OP's post here -- but definitely do not pay $3,500 to replace a pinion bearing. You're talking about a $50 part at most and maybe 3-4 hours of labor and some gear fluid. 3-4 hours is generous. If they had to replace the ring, pinion, and/or diff then it's a different game but even for a full pumpkin rebuild that price is insane unless you have a factory locker on the front diff -- even then that's just damn steep.

 

[farmer103]

14 ecoboost started having timing issues at 140k. Was ran hard on the farm though. Changed the brakes twice and that was it. 13-14 mpg. Wouldn’t buy another ecoboost for my use. Have a 3.0 powerstroke now that gets 22 mpg daily drive and 26 highway. Get a 6.5 box. Short box is worthless

 

[Rerun7]

I’ve had 3 over the last 7-8 years. No real issues on the first two that had the 5.0.

Had to have the cam phaser replaced due to a terrible noise at startup in my current one. It apparently is an issue across a number of 3.5 ecoboost engines and doesn’t cause damage but is just annoying. They fixed mine under warranty.

 

[myronman3]

so i have to ask.....if toyota has been that good to you, why are you looking to ford?

 

[salks]

I have had 2 a 2010 and 2016. No complaints just general maintenance. None have been eco boost. I stay away from that high pressure turbo crap. Good old 5.0.

 

[Steel+Killer]

Just don't get the 5.4L 3v biggest POS motor Ford ever made I think they were around from 2004 to 2010. I have two right now both are 2017s with the 5.0 V8 one is just a plain jain 2wd work truck the other is my personal truck 4x4 crew cap not a lick of trouble from either one both have around 70K miles on them.

 

[Mike Casselton]

so i have to ask.....if toyota has been that good to you, why are you looking to ford?

$$$$$
And availability

 

[Hobo Hilton]

Go here and kick around:

Ford Truck Enthusiasts

The Ford Truck Enthusiast Resource for News, Rumors, Reviews, and Ownership Information

www.ford-trucks.com

The most info and history of any site I frequent, by far.

Hobo

 

[BullGear]

$$$$$
And availability

Shouldn't that make you wonder why there's so few on the market and so many Fords????

 

[Cmb1025]

I think Toyota are so overpriced and horrible gas mileage. Even worse if you want to be cool and put big tires on. Got a 19 f150 sport eco boost. I get 20 mpg and plenty of power. Love my Ford.

 

[Hippy_Steve]

Shouldn't that make you wonder why there's so few on the market and so many Fords????

There are more Fords on the road because they're primarily sold as fleet vehicles. Lots of people buy those fleet vehicles second hand and they stay on the road. Tacomas are great trucks, but they're simply outnumbered but the number of F-150s. Ever think about why things are past brand loyalty?

 

[Sam_1]

I just traded in a 13 f150 with 140k on it. it had the 5.0 I never had a mechanical issue. I used it to tow a 26 FT RV. had plenty of power only complaint the truck was so light when towing if you hit a good cross wind going over a bridge or something you would get pushed around. trailer is high profile so not really any fault of the truck its like towing a sail boat. traded to a 17 f250. wife drives a 15 expedition it has the eco boost and I will say the eco boost has more power then the 5.0.

 

[JimTN]

I've got a '18 F150 FX4, crew cab, 3.5EB engine, no issues with 30K, bought new Feb 2018. Had one recall done on a shifter cable issue, just gas and oil so far. Pulls the 28' TT (GVRW 7400) with no issues, 20mpg overall, I adjusted the internal calculations parameters so it's more "realistic" than the usual estimated mpg the F150's usually show from the factory. Plan on keeping it until we get rid of the TT. No interior rattles or such, very quite cabin when rolling down the road. Everything still works as it should.

The freezing door latch issue is several years old, but FMC does not have a fix for it yet. If you park outside in winter time, it can be an issue. I park inside the attached garage, no issues. There is a recall out there, but FMC does not have a fix for it yet. LOL.

FordF150forum is a good website IMO for more info.

 

[Early Cuyler]

I have an '08 FX4 with the dreaded 5.4l 3v Triton. No major issues even after 300k mi beyond fluid changes. Beyond fluids, a wheel bearing went out, replaced a brake piston, windshield washer pump went out (I'm stretching for issues, ha).

The worst problem is the 2-piece spark plugs they put in these damn things. I never got notified of the TSB before it expired so... I'm driving on the originals and will buy another truck before I go through the (potential) headache of replacing the plugs.

 

[SONIC SAAMI]

2010 F-150 STX 4x4 Super Cab.
4.6L 2 valve V8.(No cam shaft phasers)
6.5 box with Tow Package and 36 gallon gas tank.
4:56 gears with Detroit Locker.
35-12.5x17 tires on 17x9 inch rims.
Rancho Shocks and Struts.
Factory transmission pan with a drain plug installed.
Factory rear differential cover.
Oil and filter change every 3,000 miles
All other fluids changed every 30,000 miles.
Ford Motor Mercon V Fluid in the transmission.
148,000 miles no mechanical issues Other than replacement of expendable Parts

 

[HayStax]

I’ve got an ‘18 Raptor, 40k miles - ZERO complaints. Would buy another in a heartbeat, and it doesn’t get treated like a town car.

FIL had a ‘13 w/ 3.5L and got 100k no issues except it was stolen. Has ‘18 5.0L w/ 30k no issues. Has a FWC pop up camper, not sure what MPG but not quite as good as my 3.5L HO which gets 18 on highway at 75mph

All the miners and drillers in my neighborhood have moved to F-150s from F-350s lately for cost savings in the fleet. Some of the bosses get Raptors. They all see extremely high mileage, ~200 miles/day, and lots of dirt roads. Trucks get driven hard and treated like shit and run a long time. Most are on 200k trade intervals that I know of. Very few issues besides the cam phaser issue. Other half ton brands aren’t even considered

 

[mzvarner]

2nd owner of a 2013 5.0L, now with 61k on it. It has since become my 2nd vehicle, no longer daily driver, but i was getting just shy of 17 mpg, and still do. Breaks and tires are the only "major" repairs. I through a Leer canopy on it, and removed the front middle jump seat, and added a center console i got off ebay.

 

[AMG04]

Im currently driving a '16 4x4 with 3.5 Ecoboost. Love the 36 gallon tank. Drove from Fort Worth to St. Louis on one tank of gas. Avg ~22 mpg at 75mph.

70k miles so far and only had a misfire issue on cyl.3. Replaced the spark plug and its running great.

 

[7mmMato]

I own a 2011 F150 4x4 Super Crew XLT 5.0 v8 had 90,000 on it when I bought it. Has 205,000 on it now. I have installed new rear shocks, new brakes, new spark plugs at 150,000 and oil psi sensor. My previous truck was a 2007 super crew XLT with the hated 5.4 I sold it with 220,000 miles on it. Only thing I ever did to it was routine brakes, plugs and one wheel bearing. Neighbor bought the truck 4 years ago and is still driving it daily. I never had any engine issues with the 5.4 like so many others did. Truck before that was 2002 f150 2wd 6cyl xl. It had over 300,000 just routine maintance items and a wheel bearing and spindle. I still see it running round town occasionally though it is looking rough. Mileage wise the 2007 averaged around 15 on highway. The 2011 averages around 16.5 in the summer and around 15.5 in the winter.

 

[Skunk]

I'm assuming that's under warranty and that's the warranty price, of which you paid none? Sorry to butt into the OP's post here -- but definitely do not pay $3,500 to replace a pinion bearing. You're talking about a $50 part at most and maybe 3-4 hours of labor and some gear fluid. 3-4 hours is generous. If they had to replace the ring, pinion, and/or diff then it's a different game but even for a full pumpkin rebuild that price is insane unless you have a factory locker on the front diff -- even then that's just damn steep.

The truck is a 2014, so I think the warranty is gone...

Yeah, I agree. I turned wrenches to pay my way through college, so I'm definitely interested to see what their parts breakdown list is, and I've told them I want to see the "bad bearing." I'm gonna try to talk to the tech that diagnosed the problem tomorrow instead of just the service rep who answers the phone. I've already told them I don't think the bearing is the problem. There is no whining/roaring noise from the hogs head, it sounds like a quick "pop" out at the wheel/hub when you switch from 4WD back to 2WD. Acts like it doesn't want to come out of 4WD. I'm thinking IWE...

 

[rkgsmith]

5.7 in the older ones 04-10 were junk. Just look up spark plugs and cam phasers. Plugs break off when you change them, cam phasers go when they want.

 

[SONIC SAAMI]

What is a "hogs head"?

 

[obk]

I run a lease fleet of crew cab 4x4 F150s doing conservation stuff and they're mostly great. Haven't had a chance to drive any 2021s yet though. We get em as stripped down as you can, direct from the factory, sequential serials, etc. The aluminum beds are ass - pretty sure it was less than 24 hours for someone to punch a hole in one before plywood/bedliners could be installed. They're not the best 4x4, but even stock they're more than enough for anything most people will ever get up to. Nice driving on highway unless you go knobby on the tires - smooth and quiet. Towing is fine as long as you stay within the ratings.

There were a handful of recalls, but nothing crazy like has happened with Toyota frames being rust magnets. Some individual rigs have had issues, but I can't find much to complain about and haven't heard much either.

 

[Skunk]

What is a "hogs head"?

The ring/pinion housing... i.e. pumpkin/hogs head/differential.

 

[Gommer]

The truck is a 2014, so I think the warranty is gone...

Yeah, I agree. I turned wrenches to pay my way through college, so I'm definitely interested to see what their parts breakdown list is, and I've told them I want to see the "bad bearing." I'm gonna try to talk to the tech that diagnosed the problem tomorrow instead of just the service rep who answers the phone. I've already told them I don't think the bearing is the problem. There is no whining/roaring noise from the hogs head, it sounds like a quick "pop" out at the wheel/hub when you switch from 4WD back to 2WD. Acts like it doesn't want to come out of 4WD. I'm thinking IWE...

Yeah, that sounds like a transfer case issue to me, not anything in your diff housing. And that price... I can't say for a Raptor but I've rebuilt many diffs in jeeps and you've got a grand in an ARB air-locker, couple hundred bucks in an air system, and maybe $500 bucks in ring & pinion, then $200 for a master rebuild kit (seals/bearings/shims/etc). So under 2 grand for all the parts. Even at stealership rates that'd be 10+ hours to do a diff rebuild? There's no way it should take that kind of time. I think they're taking you for a ride man. They see that expensive truck and think you've got it paid off -- time to give you a new payment or con you into trading it in. Would strongly suggest getting a second opinion there for sure.

 

[91Eunozs]

‘18 Raptor supercab and a ‘19 crew cab 4x4 w/the regular 3.5 ecoboost

‘19 has been perfect; ‘18 has had cam phaser failures x2 and the IWE failure x 2 as well. All covered under warranty, but if it wasn’t exactly the truck I’ve always wanted would have ditched it.

 

[AMGtuned]

Had a '13 5.0 ext cab, traded it in with 70k flawless miles. It was simply under equipped. Great truck

Got an '18 5.0 crew cab Lariat. Excellent truck, the revision on the 5.0 was a serious wake up for it. There were, however, some features I just did not need. That truck had the door latch problem: Ford coated the rods for the handle and lock mechanism with a type of sleeve. To stop whatever. They freeze with the latch in open, and the spring can't return it back to closed. They take your door apart, and spray it all with lubricant. Fixed my door problem, but covered the inside of my window with the grease, at random. Getting the stupid tech to properly attach my door panel, was the worst of that one.

Currently, I'm the proud owner of a 2020 XLT 4 door. Custom leather, 3.5TT, 10spd. I think the 10spd is not geared properly for use with the 3.5. Maybe if you had time to fiddle with final drive ratios, but I'm over that shit. I would definitely buy another, and I love my truck. We also have a '17 Explorer Sport with the 3.5. I'd buy 10 more of those. Terrible 3rd gear lag though.

I miss my 5.0 some days, but then the stars align, and my 3.5 does something that makes me smile again. Bottom line; there are Tuesday trucks, and there are Friday trucks. Test drive, and only get what you want. I would not hesitate to buy another of any of my past Ford trucks.

 

[atepointer]

so i have to ask.....if toyota has been that good to you, why are you looking to ford?

After test driving a couple of Gen 3 Tacomas I finally found out what I had read about with shifting points of the transmission. At highway speeds it struggles to find a gear and stay in it with even the slihgtest acceleration...and so sluggish from a stop light I had to look behind me to make sure someone hadn't hooked up a trailer with a row crop tractor. At low high 60's and up I'm searching, try and speed up just slightly and wham into the passing gear. Apparently it is fixable by getting the ECM/ECU? flashed so the control module doesn't nanny you, but then you just 'flashed' your warranty goodbye. Even the sales guy admitted the highway speed issues are not a real high point of the latest design. So, if I found a lower mileage Gen 2 say a 2015 I'd jump on it, but they are tough to find. I don't care for the Tundra so much for some reason the seats are quite uncomfortable to me and the additional cost of a water pump/timing belt down the road doesn't excite me, but the ride in an F150 oh man feels like my old Lexus and so dang quiet it's impressive.

Thanks for all the input everyone really appreciate it.

 

[myronman3]

well you certainly have your reasons then.

i’ve had/driven everything other than dodge. the fords have always been good to me, chevy were mediocore to piss fucking poor. worst vehicle i EVER had was 2005 tahoe. ended up giving it away so the person that took it couldnt bitch. ANYWAY... i had a f250 for work, and that truck was ABUSED. it had a vplow on it that was way too heavy for it. it did a great job pushing and was relatively problem free.
i currently have a 2500 chevy with a lighter plow, and it’s no where as good traction wise. it aint even close. i had a helluva time plowing a slight incline that the 250 would handle with ease. and with all the issues i’ve had since i got it, there is NO way i’d buy a fucking chevy.

never driven a toyota. for whatever all that is worth....take it, and another $3, and you can buy a cup of coffee.

 

[atepointer]

well you certainly have your reasons then.

i’ve had/driven everything other than dodge. the fords have always been good to me, chevy were mediocore to piss fucking poor. worst vehicle i EVER had was 2005 tahoe. ended up giving it away so the person that took it couldnt bitch. ANYWAY... i had a f250 for work, and that truck was ABUSED. it had a vplow on it that was way too heavy for it. it did a great job pushing and was relatively problem free.
i currently have a 2500 chevy with a lighter plow, and it’s no where as good traction wise. it aint even close. i had a helluva time plowing a slight incline that the 250 would handle with ease. and with all the issues i’ve had since i got it, there is NO way i’d buy a fucking chevy.

never driven a toyota. for whatever all that is worth....take it, and another $3, and you can buy a cup of coffee.

I appreciate all the input this is a journey and learning experience for me I've been in the same 2010 4Runner that has been nothing but gas/rubber/oil worry free and I have beat the living tar out of this thing it's amazing it still runs.... but I really want 4wd and an open truck bed. Do I risk a potential reliability headache to get that? Or stick with what I have that just runs like a beast and live with it? F150....locking rear dif option, super comfy and quiet. Older Taco great track record a bit less comfy than newer 150's. To be continued...

 

[myronman3]

i’m a fan of running what you have unless you have enough to buy outright. but that’s me and my debt free lifestyle talking. and while i might not drive the exact thing i want, that way of living has saved my bacon through the years. and i taught my sons the same, and they are both off to an incredible start.

my advice is if you NEED it, go for it. if it is a “want”, and it’s going to stretch you thin.....wait.

 

[atepointer]

i’m a fan of running what you have unless you have enough to buy outright. but that’s me and my debt free lifestyle talking. and while i might not drive the exact thing i want, that way of living has saved my bacon through the years. and i taught my sons the same, and they are both off to an incredible start.

my advice is if you NEED it, go for it. if it is a “want”, and it’s going to stretch you thin.....wait.

We think a lot alike and I love to read your thinking about delayed gratification. Love it and good on your for starting your boys with that mentality it will serve them well. Dang I love to read that myron....I've opined more than a few times about aforementioned topic. The wants/needs chart! The only reason I'm considering it is b/c dad could use it so while I don't need the truck nor does dad desperately need my 4Runner.....*if* I can find what I want then I'll give the 4R to dad. If I can't find what I want.....we will both make do. I have no issues driving around in an 11 year old beat up ride, but if conditions are right I might make a move.

 

[myronman3]

as a dad....i have pounded into my son’s head that they are to ALWAYS do what is best for them and their family FIRST. dad’s want their children to be as sound as possible, in every way. ask your dad what he thinks you should do.

 

[hondo1312]

2015 FX4 XLT crew cab with 3.5 Ecoboost. 115K on the odometer. All scheduled maintenance per the manual. Mostly highway miles. Only major issue I had was some PCV sensor shit the bed on they way back from Colorado and went into limp-mode. The tow home cost more than the repair. I'm super pleased overall with the truck and would have a hard time buying anything else.

 

[blbennett1288]

I have had two in the past 10 years. A 2010 XLT 5.4L 4x4 that I sold with about 90k miles on it and and a 2018 Lariat FX4 5.0L with about 35k on it.

Nothing but routine maintenance.

Only repair was a transmission gasket on the 2010 that was cracked and began to leak during a really cold winter , set me back about $250.

I have always been a fan of the larger v8’s and would recommend going that route. The 5L gets about 18-19mph on the interstate and 16-17 in the city.