Curious as to what people like best for these. I've shot a muddy match with a cheap one from Big5, velcro was so stiff that opening it up on the clock was a non-starter and it got dirty pretty easy.
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This has been (and will probably stay) my normal go-to, but it works slightly less well in the rain, at least with my default sharpie.
milwaukee inkzall or a grease pencilThis has been (and will probably stay) my normal go-to, but it works slightly less well in the rain, at least with my default sharpie.
Grease pencil worked fine on the tape, less so on the clear plastic of the cheapo wrist coach for some reason. I'll check out those markers though, thanks!milwaukee inkzall or a grease pencil
also coletac cheatsheet is my pick
I could never get fine enough writing from a grease pencil. I use them on the hard (credit card like) dope cards but rarely on tape. Personal preference I guess. The Milwaukee flavor Sharpies work for me as well. Some other fine point felt tip ink pen that works well in wet situations that I'm lacking the name of.milwaukee inkzall or a grease pencil
also coletac cheatsheet is my pick
Short action Precision
Stop using a wrist coach. it causes you to break your cheek weld / position and slows you down.
It’s more fair to say I haven’t really *started* using a wrist coach. I like the gun-mounted cards, I use one for known-distance stages and will continue to do so. However, not sure that they fit with a UKD-style match.Short action Precision
Stop using a wrist coach. it causes you to break your cheek weld / position and slows you down. I use this one because it’s inexpensive and flexible. But there are vendors who make fancy $100 ones to help satisfy any spending urges
Yes but you would pre make your dope card in increments of your expected ranges.It’s more fair to say I haven’t really *started* using a wrist coach. I like the gun-mounted cards, I use one for known-distance stages and will continue to do so. However, not sure that they fit with a UKD-style match.
Would you use one of those at, say, an NRL Hunter match where you’re finding and ranging targets on the clock?
This has been my go to forever, a bit of tape on the back of my hand has been the business.
Tell that to the best PRS shooters in the country. They don't know what they are doing.Short action Precision
Stop using a wrist coach. it causes you to break your cheek weld / position and slows you down. I use this one because it’s inexpensive and flexible. But there are vendors who make fancy $100 ones to help satisfy any spending urges
Short action Precision
Stop using a wrist coach. it causes you to break your cheek weld / position and slows you down. I use this one because it’s inexpensive and flexible. But there are vendors who make fancy $100 ones to help satisfy any spending urges
Just dont teach him how to search practiscore
I don’t shoot a lot of unknown distance. When I have I typically use a larger format dope card (it makes it easier to see the dope) and then transfer it to my rifle mounted dope holder, i don’t normally range when on the rifle. When I hunt I’ll tape a 3x5 card onto the side of the stock.It’s more fair to say I haven’t really *started* using a wrist coach. I like the gun-mounted cards, I use one for known-distance stages and will continue to do so. However, not sure that they fit with a UKD-style match.
Would you use one of those at, say, an NRL Hunter match where you’re finding and ranging targets on the clock?
No they don’t. Use what you like but that’s not correct.
Just been my observations, top shooters gonna top shoot. The mid pack and new shooters are slowed down and typically put the dope on their support arm. When prone they transfer the butt into the strong hand to look at their dope. then they have to rebuild their position. very few of them keep their cheek weld, they move both the arm and the head.Tell that to the best PRS shooters in the country. They don't know what they are doing.
Just been my observations, top shooters gonna top shoot. The mid pack and new shooters are slowed down and typically put the dope on their support arm. When prone they transfer the butt into the strong hand to look at their dope. then they have to rebuild their position. very few of them keep their cheek weld, they move both the arm and the head.
when You have 90-120 seconds little efficiencies can make the difference in finishing the course of fire or not. If your really quick, really good or practice your technique a lot. It’s not as big a deal.
You are swapping hands unless you’re running a gas gun. Strong side is already off the gun to run the bolt. Running the data on the strong side forearm would work pretty well, like @A&8's talked about. I might try that this week.Again not true. You don't transfer anything. Your strong hand is on rifle grip and you reach up with your offhand to dial and guess what is on your offhand forarm right there near the dial? Your data. It's fast and easy but takes practice. If those mid pack and new shooters are doing all that movement when dialing in the prone then they need a little practice and instruction on how to do it right.
Even when holding it's a slight glance down to see the data on your arm and no breaking positions.
You are swapping hands unless you’re running a gas gun. Strong side is already off the gun to run the bolt. Running the data on the strong side forearm would work pretty well, like @A&8's talked about. I might try that this week.
totally agree with you that whatever you do it needs to be practiced. Positional shooting also not a big deal since most likely you’re supporting the rifle strong hand and dialing with the support hand
No you work bolt and then change data or do data and then work bolt. Two different operations. You won’t be able to see it as easy with the strong side. Try it but been running it like you say won’t work and rarely time out and have no issues.
Most are going to do this sequence:
-open bolt
-dial
-close bolt
If you are using your support side to dial:
-open bolt right hand
-grab grip right hand
-let go of rifle with left hand
-dial
-grab rifle with left hand
-close bolt right hand
If you use strong side:
-open bolt right hand
-dial right hand
-close bolt right hand
So, you are definitely swapping hands to do things if you are dialing with your support side.
I personally do all operating with firing hand. Dial, parallax, bolt, trigger, etc
Support hand never leaves the support position unless moving something. This keeps your position you built the same and never rebuilding. Depending on the position, you may or may not have to shore it up when you take your support hand off the rifle.
Will any of this slow you down? Maybe, maybe not. But there’s going to be no negative effects making less movements and being more efficient.
As far as the data board, I swap hands/arms depending on situation. If I’m dialing it goes on the back of my right hand. If I’m holding, it may go on my left arm if my position allows for east viewing.
My right hand is always moving due to running the bolt. So, worst case for me I just roll my hand over while it’s on the open bolt to see my next hold.
Personal preference as always. But you are absolutely swapping hands if you dial with the opposite hand you run the bolt with.
Can't really disagree. Used to write data on the back of my hand with pen years ago at matches and it worked and the hot TX sun allowed it to be sweat off by the next stage. LOLI had no idea. I'm totally floored that someone will pay 5X or 6X what a reasonable price would be if it's in camo or says "tactical ______________" on it. A fool and his money are soon parted.
On rifle is much more difficult on an UKD format, but for KD I agree, it’s my preference.I used to use a football one for $5. It worked perfectly even in the rain. On rifle is the only way to go IMO.
Thats how I do it also, strong hand stays controlling the rifle at all times other than working the bolt.As you said personal preference but I have a much better control over the rifle with my strong hand on the rifle, especially in non prone positions, and more ease of reach with the offhand to elevation/parallax turret without disturbing position with the strong hand and having the butt slip in the shoulder pocket when arm is raised to turn turret. Bolt throw is just an elbow at most movement and mostly wrist and fast but reaching to the elevation turret, or more so the parallax when adjusting for different ranges, breaks my position a lot more than offhand to elevation turret and is slower even though it seems like more steps.