FDN 17X owners, chime in.

[LOS]

I have my eye on (pun intended) on a FDN 17 (3.2-17x50) scope and the longer I look at it the more I've gots to have it. I'm currently running a B25 (5-25x52) on my AICS/r700 and although the b25 is a great scope, it's just a little too much (size, weight and magnification) for my limited range options. I know all about the changes to the new USO Foundation series and how it differs from their previous B line. I think the changes are good, specially going back to the old erek elevation knob. I dig that USO offers a plethora of rets and I think the development of the new JVCS ret is groovy, but in my book the H59 is the cat's meow.

So far the only Neg thing I find on this optic is that it doesn't have a locking elev knob. Not a deal killer, but it's a feature that I like on expensive glass. Of course, the windage knob is capped and I'm good with that.

If you're a 17X owner please chime in and lets talk about the good, bad and ugly. Let's talk about your experience and opinions on the glass, tracking, the illumination, tunneling at low power, turret clicks, .. everything. If you're not a current owner, never owned one or have no real world experience with the 17X, but yet feel compelled to post commentary, I welcome that as well.

Thanks.

 

[Valhalla318]

Tag

 

[ken226]

I have one.

The good:

The glass is quite good. About on par with other scopes in the 3000$ price range. Chromatic aberration is non-existent when your eye is about centered, but shows a little purple fringing when off center.

The new erek3 turret isn't just a return to the old style, but an improvement on it. The zero stop is a solid, simple, well thought out design. The detent clicks on the elevation turret feel very distinct. Not loud, but have a good feel. Not the slightest bit mushy.

The tracking is good-2-go on mine. I tested it using a tracking fixture. The reticle subtensions and both turrets tracked as perfectly as my eyeball could see, using the fixture and a cm grid target @ 100 meters.

The magnification ring has just the right amount of friction, and turns smoothly.

The field of view is very good.

With the exception of the lenses, it's domestically manufactured. Before I purchased mine, I spent some time on the phone with them asking questions. They buy their materials locally and machine their components in-house at the facility they share with their sister company, Zero Delta. The glass comes from Schott AG. I'm not sure if it's made there, shipped from there or what, but I seem to remember the Duryea, PA Schott facility being mentioned.







The bad:

The tunnelling does exist, but it's importance is subjective. If you start reducing the magnification from max (17x) while looking through the scope, and stop the moment the tunnelling starts, the magnification ring is somewhere between 4.25x and 4.5x. so, all tunneling is from 3.2x to about 4.5x.

The windage turret is a little mushy. The clicks are still easily discernable by feel, but it doesn't feel as good as the elevation turret. Feels like perhaps the o-ring that seals the turret is a little bit too thick, the added resistance makes the clicks feel a little less distinct.



While the illumination works quite well, I don't like the single button control. One click turns it on, more clicks cycle through the brightness settings. Press and hold to turn it off. I prefer the 3 button illumination module from the old Brea, CA scopes, which happen to fit and work perfectly in the FDN17x, but rotated 90°. I swapped in the module from my old ST10. I called USO to see if by-chance I could buy an old 3 button module. No-dice, they stopped making them a long time ago.

 

[Jef-in-AZ]

Really liked the old ST-10 I had in the early 2000’s. I’d probably take another of them for the one I’m putting together now if it was at the right price, but I’ll be doing the FDN17 this time.

 

[LOS]

@ken226

Hello, Ken. Excellent write-up. Precisely what I'm looking for. I have the same experience with the Illum control on my b25. The old "LR" series Illum control was/is much nicer. Definitely more user friendly.

What Ret do you have on your 17? Thank You.

 

[LOS]

@Jef-in-AZ

I remember when USO first appeared on the market. It was the Go-To optic. The ST-10 always floated my skirt.

ALSO: Please feel free to post photos of your Rifles/FDN 17. Photos are Always welcome!

 

[ken226]

@ken226

Hello, Ken. Excellent write-up. Precisely what I'm looking for. I have the same experience with the Illum control on my b25. The old "LR" series Illum control was/is much nicer. Definitely more user friendly.

What Ret do you have on your 17? Thank You.

It's a JVCR, with blue illumination.


The rifle is a FN SPR, 8 twist Benchmark barrel in a Manners T4, with a magnetic adjustable check rest of my own design and manufacture. Trying to match the Manners tan with Cerakote was a PITA. I couldn't quite get it right. A mix of desert sand, earth brown with a couple drops of graphite black was as close as I could get.












Sporting a form1 suppressor, also of my own design and manufacture.

 

[LOS]

Very nice rig, Ken. Congrats! That blue Ret really pops and your adjustable magnetic cheek rest is mighty fancy.

*** I just caught your Suppressor remark. Pretty handy Gent you are, Sir.!

 

[koshkin]

I've been using the FDN17x with JVCR reticle for quite some time and overall like it. It will be going onto my list of recommendations.

Ken is generally spot on. I am not crazy about the illumination module, but it works. The scope is quite long and does have some flare. Sunshade fixes that, but makes it even longer.
Tunneling is annoying, but gone before you get to 5x. FOV (above 5x) and depth of field are very good.
The scope is quite easy to get behind and the eyepiece is barely visible when you are properly lined up.
Overall, a very competent design.

ILya

 

[ken226]

I've already mentioned the zero stop, but here are some pics of the design:

The raised lug at the top in the pic, is the actual stop.


It's stupid simple to set. First zero the scope, then remove the top cap and turret. Position the zero stop against that raised lug from the first pic, and put the turret back on with the zero marking indexed.





When you reinstall and tighten the top cap, the ring part is pinched in place. The raised lug prevents further clockwise rotation. Since the turret is threaded, a full CCW rotation raises the stop enough that it clears the lug after a full rotation.

 

[LOS]

Ken, those are very nice photos. You just can't find that type of content anywhere on the web. Thanks for posting.

The Zero Stop is such a simple design. Please tell us about your rail mounted folding level. Looks pretty robust. Is it a USO product?

My B25 rides on a Spuhr mount. I Previously had a Flatline OPS level mounted on the scope but it was an overkill. I sold it not too long ago and I replaced it with a spuhr level that bolts-on directly to the mount.

 

[ken226]

Please tell us about your rail mounted folding level. Looks pretty robust. Is it a USO product?

Yes, it's USOs folding bubble level. A little pricey, but the machining quality is quite good.

I do most of my shooting in the Cascade Mountains, so I'm never on terrain that's even remotely level, and the horizon isn't either. Even so, it doesn't get much use. Occasionally, I'll flip it out for a rough level when I adjust the bipod.

But, a person can get the same results without spending nearly as much money. Sometimes I buy things that are unnecessarily expensive just because I like the way it was machined or designed.

 

[LOS]

Sometimes I buy things that are unnecessarily expensive just because I like the way it was machined or designed.

I suffer from the same condition.

 

[Valhalla318]

My FDN 17 will be here tomorrow, I will take some pics when I get it all mounted and zeroed.

 

[LOS]

My FDN 17 will be here tomorrow, I will take some pics when I get it all mounted and zeroed.

Congrats!! I’m green with envy.

 

[ken226]

Spring for the sunshade. It comes with a honeycomb ARD preinstalled, but they'd probably remove it if you asked them. It's actually a pretty good ARD; the material is razor thin so doesn't negatively effect the image quality nearly as much as some honeycombs.

As koshkin mentioned, it has some flare. When I first got mine and looked through it, it was in bright daylight, the image was way too bright and a little washed out. I didn't even think about a sunshade at the time.

Then I took it out at night, and the image quality was fantastic. In the dark i could easily see the individual leaves on trees several hundred yards away. The trees themselves weren't even visible with the naked eye.

I called USO and ordered the sunshade/ARD and it definitely improved the image quality during sunny conditions, especially if the sun isn't behind you. The sunshade doesnt seem to have noticeably diminished the lowlight image quality.

 

[Jason280]

While the illumination works quite well, I don't like the single button control.

I'm not a big fan, either....then again, I'm not a big fan of buttons on any optic. My favorite illumination control is the Vortex Viper PST style, which has an "OFF" option between brightness setting.

I have an older 34mm tube SN3 3.2-17x EREK with the MOA reticle & red illumination, an ST10 EREK mil dot, and just picked up an FDN-17 3.2-17x a couple weeks ago. I haven't had a chance to mount the FDN-17 yet, still waiting on the rifle to be built, but it will be going on a 26" 7mm-08 built on a Defiance Deviant action.

My first impression of the FDN, it feels just like my older SN3...build, tightness, turrets. The glass definitely seems sharper/brighter, and the clarity really jumps out at you. I'm really looking forward to getting it to the range, and comparing it with my other USO's.

 

[Valhalla318]

mounted up today, first impressions are great. Turrets feel great and the glass is superb. I’ll stretch it out next week.

 

[LOS]

I’m jelly.

 

[Jef-in-AZ]

How low of rings have you been able to go with? Running an M40 contour on a Stiller TAC30. Should have it back in hand in the next week or so. Planning to go with another set of Seekins rings.

 

[Jason280]

Depends a lot on which stock you are using. M40 style stock (HS Prec, B&C, McMillan) with straight comb? Mediums (maybe even lower with some bases) should be fine to clear the objective. On both of my AICS stocks, I have to run high rings simply to keep proper cheek weld...

 

[Valhalla318]

What sunshade is everyone using? The only thing I can find on the USO website is the ARD with the honeycomb insert.

 

[LOS]

ken226 posted (above) that the USO HC shade works great as the HC design doesn’t restrict light as much as others.

 

[ken226]

What sunshade is everyone using? The only thing I can find on the USO website is the ARD with the honeycomb insert.

That's the one I have. The one from USO, with the ARD. They don't sell a plain sunshade, just the that one.

I usually don't use those ARDs.
I've used the Tenebraex Kill flash in the past, and it always made the image too dark for my liking.

For comparison:

Here's my USO shade.


Here's a Tenebraex Killflash.



I bought the USO sunshade with then intent of busting out the honeycomb with a hammer and punch. After trying it, I just left it alone.

 

[LOS]

FYI, I came upon a nice video on YT that features the FDN 17. It was just uploaded a few days ago by Josh w/USO. I didn’t know if it’s frowned upon to post the link so I didn’t.

The video is named: Zeroing your US Optic Foundation Series Scope.

 

[ken226]

Yea, links are fine.

 

[LOS]

Excellent. Thank you, Sir.

 

[ken226]

I don't mess with the center screw when zeroing.

You can, but I find it easier just to use the turret, set the zero stop, then float the turret back to zero.


The center screw was needed on the old USO scopes, to hold the erector in place while you spin the turret all the way down. To use the turrets threads bottomed out, as a zero stop. Such as on my ST10.

But with the FDNs zero stop design, it isn't necessary.

 

[LOS]

@ken226

You know I wondered about that [extra] step possibly not being necessary. Glad you cleared that up.

 

[Jason280]

Here are a few pics with an SN3...

 

[Jason280]

Playing around with both again today, the glass is definitely sharper on the FDN. Another improvement with the FDN, the rotational travel from 3.2-17x is much less than with the SN3. I still much prefer the illumination controls on the older SN3, though....and the illumination on the SN3 is considerably brighter than the FDN. So much so, the SN3 is useful even in sunlight...not so much with the FDN.

I will say this again, and I am still not a fan of the single button illumination control. I have Leupold and Burris scopes that use basically the same type system, and I would take a knob/rheostat over them any day of the week.

 

[ken226]

I agree on every point. The FDN is a great scope, but the one button illumination is just bland. No cool factor whatsoever.

That SN3 is cool. I'm gonna get one someday.



My ST10s 3 button control fits into my FDN, and works like a champ.

Well, except that it aligns sideways. Otherwise, it works. I've had it in for about a year now.

 

[Valhalla318]

That's the one I have. The one from USO, with the ARD. They don't sell a plain sunshade, just the that one.

I usually don't use those ARDs.
I've used the Tenebraex Kill flash in the past, and it always made the image too dark for my liking.

For comparison:

Here's my USO shade.


Here's a Tenebraex Killflash.



I bought the USO sunshade with then intent of busting out the honeycomb with a hammer and punch. After trying it, I just left it alone.

Ken, would you say for everyday shooting that the USO sunshade is good for everyday use? I plan on using this on hunts as well as long range target.

 

[Eli@USOptics]

Hello all!

A little late to the party, but I thought I could add in a few more photos of the U.S. Optics FDN-17X. We're very proud of the FDN Series, and I'm very excited to see overall positive reviews!

Here is a FDN-17X on a ZRO Delta Venator!

 

[ken226]

Ken, would you say for everyday shooting that the USO sunshade is good for everyday use? I plan on using this on hunts as well as long range target.

Yes. Mine has been on for a year.

I haven't had any reason to take it off yet. It stays on, for both daytime and lowlight use.

The only negative I've found is that it adds a few inches to an already long scope. But, I don't care.

From my point of view, the added length is irrelevant. If I used that space for most any other foreign object, I wouldn't be able to see the target anyway.

 

[ken226]

@Eli@USOptics

Awesome pic. Thanks for posting.


How bout a poll? Who else wants Eli to bring back the 3 button illumination control, and sell it as an accessory? ,

 

[Kyleigh]

That's the one I have. The one from USO, with the ARD. They don't sell a plain sunshade, just the that one.

I usually don't use those ARDs.
I've used the Tenebraex Kill flash in the past, and it always made the image too dark for my liking.

For comparison:

Here's my USO shade.


Here's a Tenebraex Killflash.



I bought the USO sunshade with then intent of busting out the honeycomb with a hammer and punch. After trying it, I just left it alone.

Hey Ken! You can custom order a sunshade without a honeycomb. Shoot me a message and I'll get you taken care of!

 

[ken226]

Hey Ken! You can custom order a sunshade without a honeycomb. Shoot me a message and I'll get you taken care of!

Nope, I'm good.

I only wanted one without a honeycomb before I'd actually used your version.

It's very well designed and made;
it doesn't hurt the image quality at all.

I like it as-is. Thanks anyway though.

 

[Kyleigh]

What sunshade is everyone using? The only thing I can find on the USO website is the ARD with the honeycomb insert.

Hello! If you place an order for the sunshade, you can shoot us an email and we will make you one without the honeycomb. One of the pros of making everything in house or within 50 miles of us!

 

[Kyleigh]

Nope, I'm good.

I only wanted one without a honeycomb before I'd actually used your version.

It's very well designed and made;
it doesn't hurt the image quality at all.

I like it as-is. Thanks anyway though.

I am happy to hear that! Super exciting to see all the love on here. If anyone needs anything, our team is always available to help!

 

[Valhalla318]

Hello! If you place an order for the sunshade, you can shoot us an email and we will make you one without the honeycomb. One of the pros of making everything in house or within 50 miles of us!

This right here is why I went with USO for this build. Thank you SO much! PM Incoming.

 

[D loop darrell]

Really best to set the zero stop before you zero the rifle.







1, Remove zero stop ring



2, screw turret all the way down into the body.



3, unscrew the turret just enough so the zero stop ring doesn't bottom out on the scope housing.



4, set the zero stop ring against the raised lug.



5, Bore sight your rifle using the torx or allen screw elevation screw...



6, float turret to zero.







If you don't screw the turret in all the way before you start the process, you might be cheating yourself out of some elevation adjustment. It's hard for me to explain but I'm right. I tried zeroing my rifle at an odd distance and my zero stop ring, wouldn't hit the stop lug. It was going over it. So i did some thinking... With the elevation screw in the center of the turret, you can set your zero without moving the turret. So, to get max elevation, you bottom out the turret into the scope, set your zero stop ring way down there, the just adjustment your reticle with the screw. Works great. You never have to move your zero stop again. Wanna use a different rifle? Take out the top middle turret screw cover screw, use you Allen wrench to move your reticle and thats it.



























































































































































































































































































































































Sporting a form1 suppressor, also of my own design and manufacture.

 

[D loop darrell]

Really best to set the zero stop before you zero the rifle.







1, Remove zero stop ring



2, screw turret all the way down into the body.



3, unscrew the turret just enough so the zero stop ring doesn't bottom out on the scope housing.



4, set the zero stop ring against the raised lug.



5, Bore sight your rifle using the torx or allen screw elevation screw...



6, float turret to zero.







If you don't screw the turret in all the way before you start the process, you might be cheating yourself out of some elevation adjustment. It's hard for me to explain but I'm right. I tried zeroing my rifle at an odd distance and my zero stop ring, wouldn't hit the stop lug. It was going over it. So i did some thinking... With the elevation screw in the center of the turret, you can set your zero without moving the turret. So, to get max elevation, you bottom out the turret into the scope, set your zero stop ring way down there, the just adjust your reticle with the screw. Works great. You never have to move your zero stop again. Wanna use a different rifle? Take out the top middle turret screw cover screw, use you Allen wrench to move your reticle and thats it.

 

[yf222000]

Hi everyone. I'd like to ask if anyone have experienced this on their FDN 17X. Purchased my scope just a day ago and I noticed the illumination
function on the scope is quite funky. I have not seen anything like this on other scopes I have used before. At the lowest magnification. The illumination lights up the entire view circle and made the scope pretty much unusable. To by pass this problem. I have to increase the magnification past 5x. And even then, I still notice the red glow in the view. The reticle I chose is the IGR kind. Is this normal? Should I send back for repair? Thank you in advance for everyone's insights.

 

[Poorboyr]

Hi everyone. I'd like to ask if anyone have experienced this on their FDN 17X. Purchased my scope just a day ago and I noticed the illumination
function on the scope is quite funky. I have not seen anything like this on other scopes I have used before. At the lowest magnification. The illumination lights up the entire view circle and made the scope pretty much unusable. To by pass this problem. I have to increase the magnification past 5x. And even then, I still notice the red glow in the view. The reticle I chose is the IGR kind. Is this normal? Should I send back for repair? Thank you in advance for everyone's insights.

Yeah. That’s not normal. It needs to go back.

 

[yf222000]

Yeah. That’s not normal. It needs to go back.

Thank you for your input. I will contact the seller tomorrow and see if they can arrange for return and refund since I just bought this practically 2 days ago. I have a feeling they will blame it on the manufacture defect and defers to US Optics for it. If push comes to shoves. I will call US Optics and have them look at it. Thanks again. Happy New Year everyone.

 

[just browsing]

USO will take care of that no problem. Wouldn’t even bother with the seller.

 

[Poorboyr]

Thank you for your input. I will contact the seller tomorrow and see if they can arrange for return and refund since I just bought this practically 2 days ago. I have a feeling they will blame it on the manufacture defect and defers to US Optics for it. If push comes to shoves. I will call US Optics and have them look at it. Thanks again. Happy New Year everyone.

US Optics has great customer service. They will take care of you.

 

[yf222000]

Hi everyone. I was able to contact the seller and have the return taken cared of. The seller will be sending out a replacement unit tomorrow. I will update all of you once it arrived.. I think you again for all of your help and insights. Happy New Year everyone .

 

[rothgyr]

Since the the thread has been resurrected - I've got a 17x on my MK12 pseudo clone. I'll say that the eyebox/eye relief on the 17x is a bit easier than on the 25x, and that the reticle (JVCR) is a smidge thicker to compensate for shooting at lower power vs the 25x. Mirrors what a lot of other guys have said. No CA, clear picture, no weird distortions at low power, turrets aren't loud or "ratchety" and could be mistaken by some as being mushy, but they are tactile and very useable.

Mag ring is smooth and easy to turn, parallax knob is very easy to turn. I like how matte the finish is. FOV on the the FDN is legitimately huge. I've heard people complain about the eyebox, especially before they mount it, and this is true. The eyebox is tight. Generally speaking, you can have a loose eye relief and a small field of view, or you can have a tight eye relief and and a narrow FOV with easier to induce CA or possibly even parallax? Focal lengths are a thing, it's physics. There is far more to good optical design than a large eyebox. Your first impression may be kind of meh when you pull it out of the box, but once it's on your rifle, it just works.

FOV on my 25x is literally - this is not hyperbole - it is literally twice the FOV of a mk5.

In my opinion:

Cons:

• Tight eye relief/eyebox
• Turrets are low, and require MPA/Warne Skyline or other low profile mounts to keep your face on the gun as you dial. ARC M-BRACE is a no go for this scope, same with Spuhr (left corner kind of blocks your view).
• Tunnels at low power, similar to Nightforce/S&B
• Windage and parallax turrets aren't parallel and the scopes look kind of funky/long
• Turrets aren't über clicky
• Underwhelming illumination controls
• Zero stop can be forced to move if you've got bear hands
• People who remember the poop show of US Optics from 2016-2018 will make fun of you
• People with Nightforces will laugh at you
• D Loop Darrel ruined an entire thread about it when they first launched. What a poop show. Just skip pages 2-5.

Pros:

• Massive FOV
• Very good optical image
• Good depth of field
• Reliable tracking
• Very smooth mag ring that doesn't require a throw lever
• Low profile elevation turret
• Capped windage
• JVCR is currently my favorite reticle I've ever messed with
• USO's customer service is fantastic
• Street prices on the used market are extremely competitive
• You can be a hipster and shoot with something that's too underground for the mainstream normies to comprehend

Finally, since pics were encouraged:

And my 25x:

(image looks a lot better with your naked eye. Phone pics through the scope suck)