First Precision Bolt Gun: Bergara B14 HMR vs Tikka T3X Lite

[Deadsquiggles]

So I’ve decided to get I want to give precision shooting with a bolt gun a try but I was hoping for some input.

I’ve narrowed it down to either a Tikka T3x Lite or Bergara B14 HMR. Those seem to be my best bet, especially based on availability being left handed.

I haven’t settled on a caliber although I’m leaning towards 6.5 Creedmoor., but .308 isn’t completely ruled out. I’m not sold on either one and not invested in either one outside of having half a case of M80 for my M1A. I know most say 6.5 is easier to shoot well but .308 will keep you honest and make you a better shooter. But I don’t really have any ranges longer than 300yards near me which has me leaning .308. But I can find longer ranges if I drive further.

As far as the rifles, I don’t have any intention of throwing it in a chassis, at least not right away, but I know being a lefty, there’s more options for the B14 being R700 based, ie KRG.

I like that the B14 takes AICS magazines as it is where the T3x needs new bottom metal. But the Tikka can take prefit barrels which would nice if I were to decide to change calibers for any reason. I also like the more vertical grip on the stock of the B14. But both seem to have great aftermarket support for a lefty.

I think the Bergara comes with a threaded barrel factory and the particular Tikka I was looking at doesn’t which obviously makes adding a muzzle device easier since I plan on eventually suppressing the rifle.

I see more people praising the reduced bolt throw (60° iirc) and smoothness of the Tikka action compared to the Bergara action (90°)

I’m planning on around $1k for just the rifle, then save up a bit for a scope and rings. Hopefully purchasing in the next month or so.

Any input would be greatly appreciated, if it seems long winded and rambling, the bolt gun world is new for me. Tell me what that pushed you to the T3x or B14 or anything that went into your decision. Also, I feel it’s probably worth mentioning I don’t reload.

 

[The D]

Full disclosure: I’m in the same boat as you but I’ve been here for a few years already reading(and being an asshole in the pit). As such, you should wait until the more experienced voices come along with their opinions.

You’re probably going to get more recommendations for the Tikka. They may not be as polished as the Bergara but not by much. This will probably be reflected in a price difference but I haven’t checked either specifically. The aftermarket for Tikka obviously isn’t as big as the 700 market but there are still plenty of options. The biggest problem you’ll find won’t be the 700/Tikka difference, it’ll be because you’re a mutant lefty(I kid, I kid).

One of the bigger differences will be in barrels if you decide you want to shoot a different cartridge. Tikka’s can be re-barreled with a pre-fit, by you, in your garage. Bergara’s have a coned bolt face which makes it a bit harder.

Choosing .308 won’t be a problem in the beginning but you’ll need to move on to a better ammo than M80. There are good ammo choices but the ultimate will be stepping up to rolling your own.

 

[Deadsquiggles]

Full disclosure: I’m in the same boat as you but I’ve been here for a few years already reading(and being an asshole in the pit). As such, you should wait until the more experienced voices come along with their opinions.

You’re probably going to get more recommendations for the Tikka. They may not be as polished as the Bergara but not by much. This will probably be reflected in a price difference but I haven’t checked either specifically. The aftermarket for Tikka obviously isn’t as big as the 700 market but there are still plenty of options. The biggest problem you’ll find won’t be the 700/Tikka difference, it’ll be because you’re a mutant lefty(I kid, I kid).

One of the bigger differences will be in barrels if you decide you want to shoot a different cartridge. Tikka’s can be re-barreled with a pre-fit, by you, in your garage. Bergara’s have a coned bolt face which makes it a bit harder.

Choosing .308 won’t be a problem in the beginning but you’ll need to move on to a better ammo than M80. There are good ammo choices but the ultimate will be stepping up to rolling your own.

Oh yeah, I have no illusions of M80 being precision. I know I’m gonna have to buy match ammo for either caliber. And with prices being just about the same, it’s basically a moot point.

 

[EotS]

I'd say Tikka. Bergara has a great selection of models and options, but their qc and accuracy has been a crapshoot. I haven't heard of a Tikka yet that didn't shoot.

Any reason you're wanting the Lite model? Tikka has a few models that are threaded, but they're hbar.
As far as aftermarket, Bergara/700 footprint has more, but Tikka aftermarket has everything you'd need anyhow. I'd definitely take the prefit ability of them as well.


As far as 308 Vs 6.5,,,,
There's really no reason to go 308 at this point. Maybe if it was exclusively a hunting rifle under 300yds.

Mostly irrelevant. Don't dwell on the details too much. Paralysis from analysis and all that. If this is your first bolt gun, just get close to what you THINK you want, and start shooting. If you stay with the sport, you're going to change damn near everything anyhow. Hindsight, I'd rather have had a gun that was 50% of what I wanted today, than the "grail gun" 8 months from now, since that goalpost is in perpetual motion.

 

[Deadsquiggles]

I'd say Tikka. Bergara has a great selection of models and options, but their qc and accuracy has been a crapshoot. I haven't heard of a Tikka yet that didn't shoot.

Any reason you're wanting the Lite model? Tikka has a few models that are threaded, but they're hbar.
As far as aftermarket, Bergara/700 footprint has more, but Tikka aftermarket has everything you'd need anyhow. I'd definitely take the prefit ability of them as well.


As far as 308 Vs 6.5,,,,
There's really no reason to go 308 at this point. Maybe if it was exclusively a hunting rifle under 300yds.

Mostly irrelevant. Don't dwell on the details too much. Paralysis from analysis and all that. If this is your first bolt gun, just get close to what you THINK you want, and start shooting. If you stay with the sport, you're going to change damn near everything anyhow. Hindsight, I'd rather have had a gun that was 50% of what I wanted today, than the "grail gun" 8 months from now, since that goalpost is in perpetual motion.

I'd say Tikka. Bergara has a great selection of models and options, but their qc and accuracy has been a crapshoot. I haven't heard of a Tikka yet that didn't shoot.

Any reason you're wanting the Lite model? Tikka has a few models that are threaded, but they're hbar.
As far as aftermarket, Bergara/700 footprint has more, but Tikka aftermarket has everything you'd need anyhow. I'd definitely take the prefit ability of them as well.


As far as 308 Vs 6.5,,,,
There's really no reason to go 308 at this point. Maybe if it was exclusively a hunting rifle under 300yds.

Mostly irrelevant. Don't dwell on the details too much. Paralysis from analysis and all that. If this is your first bolt gun, just get close to what you THINK you want, and start shooting. If you stay with the sport, you're going to change damn near everything anyhow. Hindsight, I'd rather have had a gun that was 50% of what I wanted today, than the "grail gun" 8 months from now, since that goalpost is in perpetual motion.

As far as the Lite model, it’s an availability thing. Trying to find one of the other Tikkas in LH and 6.5 Creedmoor seems to be pointless. I can find B14 HMRs and the T3X Lite 6.5 easily, other Tikka models, not so much.

I do like the ability to use prefit barrels with the Tikkas. And yeah, you’re probably right there’s no point in going 308 since this won’t be a hunting rifle, and I do plan on eventually going further than 300 yards.

Edit: Not sure why it quoted you twice.

 

[RMS65]

I have a friend with a Begara HMR in 6.5 he's had a few issues with it mostly pertaining the bolt metal being soft or something like that. Its been addressed and the gun looks great but it only shoots just ok.

I have three Tikka centerfires and two rimfires. All of them shoot very well. Two of the centerfire are T3X lite. A compact 243 for the wife and a 7mm-08 for me. Both shoot sub MOA which is better than necessary for deer guns. The third is my T3X 223 Varmint that I bought in 2017 or 2018. That gun other than a trigger spring is completely stock. It'll shoot sub MOA, sometimes better than half MOA with box ammo.

I recently moved where I can shoot probably 800 yards off my back deck so I bought another Varmint in 6.5 CM. I just got the gun and I can't say anything but if it shoots as well as my other Tikkas it'll shoot great.

I chose the Varmint over the CTR because it had a heavier 24" barrel and cheaper magazines. The CTR is threaded and has ten round magazines. Neither are important to me. The Varmint cost me $902 new on GB. I will start with plates around the yard and maybe try stretching it out more if it becomes an interest. I mostly bought it for coyotes that often appear beyond 400 yards. Get the Tikka.

 

[NewsShooter]

Tikka over the bergara, I have both, but you should get a heavier barrel on the tikka, CTR or varmint. 300 yards get a .223, otherwise the 6.5, more options for good ammo with the 6.5

 

[EotS]

Sounds like it comes down to if you can live without a threaded barrel.

That be the case, grab the Tikka, and snipe whatever barrel when it goes on sale. PVA barrels keep having good deals pop up.

 

[Deadsquiggles]

Yeah I think after the responses so far, a T3X in 6.5 seems to be the best bet. Hadn’t considered the CTR or Varmint so off to google to poke around and see who might have a left handed on in stock.

 

[JerkyFreak]

Firstly, neither rifle is considered a "precision" rifle. I have two Tikka's. Both shoot very well, but neither shoot as well as my Barnard with Krieger barrel.

Between the two models you mentioned, the Tikka is the clear choice. Yes, Tikka does not have the wide variety of aftermarket mods as other makes, but what you cannot find, you don't need anyway.

Finally, unless you want to shoot only 3 shots every 5 minutes, rather get the Varmint or Supervarmint model. The thicker barrels allow you to shoot longer strings before heat affect the barrel. Barrels will last longer.

 

[Deadsquiggles]

Firstly, neither rifle is considered a "precision" rifle. I have two Tikka's. Both shoot very well, but neither shoot as well as my Barnard with Krieger barrel.

Between the two models you mentioned, the Tikka is the clear choice. Yes, Tikka does not have the wide variety of aftermarket mods as other makes, but what you cannot find, you don't need anyway.

Finally, unless you want to shoot only 3 shots every 5 minutes, rather get the Varmint or Supervarmint model. The thicker barrels allow you to shoot longer strings before heat affect the barrel. Barrels will last longer.

I mean I wouldn’t expect a $1k rifle to shoot as well as a ~$3k custom build. But the agreement seems to be it shoots more than well enough and can be upgraded easily. And I’ll definitely check into the Varmint or CTR rifles.

 

[LeftyJason]

Here is some info to help with Tikkas.

Tikka T3 Thread

Hmmm is anybody familiar with the CDI bm? They show long action mags... I’m assuming I could run a SAUM round thru something like a 300wm mag even if it had some extra length?? I don't know anything about CDI. As far as mags you might have to tweek the feed lips a little so the fatter saum round...

www.snipershide.com

My Tikka. T3x lite ss 6.5 creed. Krg whiskey 3 left hand converted (isn't hard to do yourself). Muzzle threaded 9/16 by Thunderbeast with a face mount brake.

If you have further left hand Tikka questions just ask.

(Thought I posted this yesterday)

Left handed options in heavier calibers aren't really imported except for these listed. Limited it to 6.5 and 308. There are no imported stainless heavy barrel options in lefty. Hence my lite.
Jrtxc482 for a lefty 6.5 ctr (not showing 308), jrtac416l 308 a1, jrtac482l 6.5 a1, jrtat482l brown 6.5a1.

 

[Maggot]

Cant address tne Tika but I bought a Bergara 7PRC and hit a mile first outing. Quality seems very good,

 

[RMS65]

Got my new 6.5 Varmint sorta sighted in at 100 yards with a less than perfect set up. These groups were shot after a 5 round zero. They were shot left to right with 120 grain American Eagle. Gun heats up a lot quicker than my 223 Varmint. You'll want a heavy barrel on yours. So far mine looks promising.

Oh the red dot are 3/4".

 

[Deadsquiggles]

Here is some info to help with Tikkas.

Tikka T3 Thread

Hmmm is anybody familiar with the CDI bm? They show long action mags... I’m assuming I could run a SAUM round thru something like a 300wm mag even if it had some extra length?? I don't know anything about CDI. As far as mags you might have to tweek the feed lips a little so the fatter saum round...

www.snipershide.com

My Tikka. T3x lite ss 6.5 creed. Krg whiskey 3 left hand converted (isn't hard to do yourself). Muzzle threaded 9/16 by Thunderbeast with a face mount brake.
View attachment 8403807

If you have further left hand Tikka questions just ask.

(Thought I posted this yesterday)

Left handed options in heavier calibers aren't really imported except for these listed. Limited it to 6.5 and 308. There are no imported stainless heavy barrel options in lefty. Hence my lite.
Jrtxc482 for a lefty 6.5 ctr (not showing 308), jrtac416l 308 a1, jrtac482l 6.5 a1, jrtat482l brown 6.5a1.

First off, that’s gorgeous and I’ll probably hit you up about modifying a chassis whenever I go that route. And yeah, I’ve noticed it’s tough/impossible to find any stainless heavy barreled LH options. Closest has been a CTR, but it’s not stainless and I can’t find the 24” in LH anywhere, just 20”. I’ll probably end up starting with a stainless 24” lite for the same reason as you. Or just go with the blued 24” and plan on a barrel swap.

Got my new 6.5 Varmint sorta sighted in at 100 yards with a less than perfect set up. These groups were shot after a 5 round zero. They were shot left to right with 120 grain American Eagle. Gun heats up a lot quicker than my 223 Varmint. You'll want a heavy barrel on yours. So far mine looks promising.

Oh the red dot are 3/4".

I wish I could find a varmint anywhere. Pretty non-existent for LH models it seems.

 

[RMS65]

I'm sure you know this already but if you rebarrel your lefthand lite, the stock won't fit without a lot of barrel channel grinding. I don't mind the factory stocks but that's a lot of work to use one. It almost necessitates buying another stock or chassis. At that point you'll almost be buying the whole rifle for a left hand action.

Just a thought. Maybe get a lefthand CTR, use it with the 20" to cut your teeth and rebarrel that to a 24" if you still want to later.

FWIW my wife with her 20" heavybarreled 223 Howa 1500 out shoots my Varmint and 3/4 of the guys at the 200 yard range all the time. She doesn't miss the lost velocity at all. Some people will even argue shorter barrels have less whip making them more accurate.

 

[tacoman69]

Definitely the Tikka. Google bergarbage, too risky

 

[LeftyJason]

Definitely the Tikka. Google bergarbage, too risky

Have seen this comparison only once (haven't handled one or anything. Only read) but isn't Bergara just Spanish Remington?

 

[FuhQ]

So I’ve decided to get I want to give precision shooting with a bolt gun a try but I was hoping for some input.

I’ve narrowed it down to either a Tikka T3x Lite or Bergara B14 HMR. Those seem to be my best bet, especially based on availability being left handed.

I haven’t settled on a caliber although I’m leaning towards 6.5 Creedmoor., but .308 isn’t completely ruled out. I’m not sold on either one and not invested in either one outside of having half a case of M80 for my M1A. I know most say 6.5 is easier to shoot well but .308 will keep you honest and make you a better shooter. But I don’t really have any ranges longer than 300yards near me which has me leaning .308. But I can find longer ranges if I drive further.

As far as the rifles, I don’t have any intention of throwing it in a chassis, at least not right away, but I know being a lefty, there’s more options for the B14 being R700 based, ie KRG.

I like that the B14 takes AICS magazines as it is where the T3x needs new bottom metal. But the Tikka can take prefit barrels which would nice if I were to decide to change calibers for any reason. I also like the more vertical grip on the stock of the B14. But both seem to have great aftermarket support for a lefty.

I think the Bergara comes with a threaded barrel factory and the particular Tikka I was looking at doesn’t which obviously makes adding a muzzle device easier since I plan on eventually suppressing the rifle.

I see more people praising the reduced bolt throw (60° iirc) and smoothness of the Tikka action compared to the Bergara action (90°)

I’m planning on around $1k for just the rifle, then save up a bit for a scope and rings. Hopefully purchasing in the next month or so.

Any input would be greatly appreciated, if it seems long winded and rambling, the bolt gun world is new for me. Tell me what that pushed you to the T3x or B14 or anything that went into your decision. Also, I feel it’s probably worth mentioning I don’t reload.

Forget the factory rifles…Start with a much better action and chassis than the Bergara and the Tikka…

https://www.armorally.com/shop/aero-precision-solus-competition-rifle-22-6-5-creedmoor-sendero-black/

 

[Turkeytider]

Forget the factory rifles…Start with a much better action and chassis than the Bergara and the Tikka…

https://www.armorally.com/shop/aero-precision-solus-competition-rifle-22-6-5-creedmoor-sendero-black/

Wants to spend " around $1K " for the rifle. I guess a lot depends on the definition of " around "(?). How far can one get beyond factory rifles at a $1K price point?

 

[LeftyJason]

Forget the factory rifles…Start with a much better action and chassis than the Bergara and the Tikka…

https://www.armorally.com/shop/aero...on-rifle-22-6-5-creedmoor-sendero-black/[/URL

Reread OPs second paragraph. LEFT handed.

 

[FuhQ]

Wants to spend " around $1K " for the rifle. I guess a lot depends on the definition of " around "(?). How far can one get beyond factory rifles at a $1K price point?

You can’t even find a factory rifle that’s going to be that capable for $1,000 without having to drop another $1,000 in upgrades to it. So by that time you’re already at $2k…Or more.

 

[FuhQ]

Reread OPs second paragraph. LEFT handed.

I know plenty of lefties that prefer to shoot right-handed rifles because they never have to remove their cheek weld and left (trigger) hand off the stock, and can manipulate the bolt faster with their right hand…

 

[LeftyJason]

I know plenty of lefties that prefer to shoot right-handed rifles because they never have to remove their cheek weld and left (trigger) hand off the stock, and can manipulate the bolt faster with their right hand…

So how many left handed actions do you own as a righty as your primary/ first gun if you can run it faster?

Be honest. Would you have bought a lefty as your first bolt gun?

Here is some good responses.

Hey @Primus, how many LH actions do you own? This conversation is so funny, because it only happens in one direction. The RH shooters never talk about the merits of the LH bolt action, only leftys shooting right-hand.

It’s a large disadvantage. Almost or actually hitting yourself in the nose while cycling the bolt, doesn’t exactly help establish cheek weld discipline.

How about that thumb on the improvised “support” hand? You know the one on the stock’s wrist as you support your rifle, yeah that one is right in the bolts pathway. I still have a scar from the time I carried a RH Weatherby Mark V on a PA whitetail hunt.

Or how about all those firing side muscles you’re tensing and contracting to pull the maneuver off? Yeah, those are the exact muscles that all those precision shooting instructors are trying to get you to totally relax as part of your recoil management and follow-through training.

We don’t even need to talk about the “benefits” of having your eyes protected by the port instead of steel... It’s full of real disadvantages (chuckle).

Is it impossible? Not at all, but neither is using your feet.

Can a talented rifleman nearly completely close the gap on a less talented shooter using better equipment? Yes, but no one is going to be that much more talented than the rest of the best. At some point it will prevent you from doing your best.

If my rifle were issued to me, would I rework my software to utilize my hardware? Without question or complaint.

Would I BUY myself a RH rifle? Never have, never will.

Do I think it can, in certain forms of shooting, be acceptable, or even beneficial? Yes, I also think that in those disciplines it’s best to not touch your rifle. If you’re into that, get a RH bolt and drive on.

It’s your money, do what you want. You’ll surely find other leftys that have adapted. But take note of how very very few leftys started with LH bolt guns, only to later discover the advantages of RH bolts and make the change. Hint: It’s the same as the number of RH shooters rocking LH bolts.

I have several examples of rifles that have had catastrophic pressure spikes. Barrels launched down range, front receiver ring in 3 pieces, front receiver ring enlarged, stock shattered, etc. Everyone walked away essentially unscathed. The reason. They were not looking into the loading port. I have a few target rifles with dual ports. They will be my last.

Given a choice I would never ever use a rifle where I was looking into the loading port at the ass end of bomb.

More eloquently said than I did on post #19...

I have seen this happen firsthand to a LH shooter firing a RH bolt gun. We had to take him to the hospital. The safety glasses he was wearing got blown off his face. 4 hours of surgery to his eye. His eye had to be removed from his skull to get the fragments out. Thankfully, he recovered his sight in that eye but for 6 months, no one knew what the outcome would be.

Needless to say, he shoots a LH action now.

 

[FuhQ]

So how many left handed actions do you own as a righty as your primary/ first gun if you can run it faster?

Be honest. Would you have bought a lefty as your first bolt gun?

Here is some good responses.

You really think that’s the norm?

Not arguing with you, but right or left handed, if a large enough CF happens, you got a good chance of getting maimed or fucked up, regardless of which direction the bolt handle faces. Just saying…

 

[TurdFerguson]

I got 99 problems son but a Bergera ain’t one. Just build what you want on a custom action.

 

[Nik H]

You really think that’s the norm?

Not arguing with you, but right or left handed, if a large enough CF happens, you got a good chance of getting maimed or fucked up, regardless of which direction the bolt handle faces. Just saying…

The gas ports on the loading port expel gas at an angle not directly to the rear so you are MUCH more susceptible to getting not only gas but fragments into your eye when you're doing what you're proposing; but by all means carry on

 

[FuhQ]

The gas ports on the loading port expel gas at an angle not directly to the rear so you are MUCH more susceptible to getting not only gas but fragments into your eye when you're doing what you're proposing; but by all means carry on

The Solus has gas ports on BOTH sides, and they are directed forward… But since he wants a lefty, that’s irrelevant to the OP’s question, just pointing that fact out.

 

[waspocrew]

Of the two choices, I’d go Tikka. However, I’d consider the CTR instead of the T3x lite. Threaded muzzle, good mags, and if going with a KRG bravo, AICS mags will work as well.

 

[Deadsquiggles]

It’s really seeming like my best option is a CTR in 6.5. I know the “best” opinion is to build on a custom action. However, while I’m not trying to be cheap, I’m trying to get the most bang for my buck starting out. A $800 action, $500-$800 barrel, and $300-$500 chassis just to give it a shot doesn’t seem like money well spent in the beginning. Which led to looking at the “around $1k” (roughly $800-$1300 range) rifles. I know tikkas have a pretty good reputation for accuracy out the box and being pretty upgradable and I’ve seen similar opinions of the bergara (but also more negative reviews about the bergara compared to the tikka) which is what led to those to being my most considered options.

I think after everyone’s posts, thoughts, opinions, and further reading on my part, I’m gonna pick up a LH CTR and upgrade it as necessary. Thanks everyone.

 

[Tanger]

I started with a Tikka CTR in 6.5. Just getting a feel for longer range shooting and bolt guns. While I’ve upgraded the glass, put it in a KRG Bravo, and swapped the barrel to a PVA prefit, I don’t regret my decision.

Many would say, I could have a full custom for the combined money I have in it. I don’t mind. I still got into it with a lower starting cost, was actually shooting sooner and had fun seeing the transition.

Get what you want, upgrade if you want, and enjoy it.

 

[lonegunman762x51]

I shoot a left handed Bergara HMR in 300WM, I used it on an oryx last summer with excellent results, it shoots 1/2 moa with a love of 200gr ELD-X bullets. 3 shot groups at 100yds are in the 1/4 inch range, they open to .5 inch at 200yds.

Five shot groups don't open more than expected. I use three shots for practical hunting groups since I've never seen an animal that needed five shots.

The bbl was very hot for the first Federal rounds. I was curious if those two loads shot close enough to interchange them. My particular gun shoots very well.

 

[AKPoaster]

To the OP...

I have both of these rifles (sort of: I have the T3 Lite, pre-dates the T3x. They don't seem to be that different). I am going to explain what you will get, out of the box.

For both, you get an awesome action. Their bolts are smooth as butter. When it comes to cycling rounds, you are not making a poor choice in either respect.

You indicated this is a precision bolt gun...so I assume that means you want top-notch accuracy...and that your intention is not to put in an aftermarket chassis. With those parameters, if I were you, I would advise going with the B14 HMR. Here's why:

1) The B14 HMR comes with a number of features that you otherwise would have to upgrade with a T3x. First and foremost, the stock. The HMR has a heavy stock fully adjustable for cheek rise and length of pull, with all the desired ergonomics of a premium non-folding PRS stock.

2) The 700 style action allows for plenty of pic rail mount choices for your optic, and the bolt handle is beefy.

3) The B14 HMR comes standard with a 5-round mag, and you can get 10-round AICS style mags for it. Not the case with the T3x.

4) I have nothing bad to say about Tikka's barrels, but Bergara is known for theirs. The HMR features a heavy bull barrel intended for precision shooting.

5) The B14 HMR barrel comes threaded, ready for your muzzle device of choice. I know some versions of T3x's will also, but again I'm comparing standard base models.

6) 3 swivel studs, so you can have a sling and mount a bipod. It also has QD cups. Redundancies are nice.

7) Did I mention the weight? When it comes to Precision shooting, a heavy setup is to your advantage. Once you mount a high-power optic, add a bipod, and attach a muzzle device, you're looking at about 14 lbs.

8) Pricewise, I got my B14 HMR for just under $900 new. T3x's are probably a bit less on average, but you'll pay the difference and then some to get a rifle with all the features that come with the HMR.


Each of these rifles is intended to serve a different purpose. The T3 Lite in stainless steel chambered for .30-06 is my main hunting rifle. Even with a fairly heavy 4-14x44 scope mounted it's just under 8 lbs. With 180 gr Barnes bullets, I get North American big game-killing power in a setup that suits my mountain hunting style very well. The HMR in 6.5 Creedmoor, on the other hand, is built for precision shooting, and what I'll always take to my local 1,000 yard range. YMMV. Like I said from the outset, when it comes to bolt guns, you're not making a poor choice either way. Identify the primary purpose of your rifle and go from there.

 

[Deadsquiggles]

To the OP...

I have both of these rifles (sort of: I have the T3 Lite, pre-dates the T3x. They don't seem to be that different). I am going to explain what you will get, out of the box.

For both, you get an awesome action. Their bolts are smooth as butter. When it comes to cycling rounds, you are not making a poor choice in either respect.

You indicated this is a precision bolt gun...so I assume that means you want top-notch accuracy...and that your intention is not to put in an aftermarket chassis. With those parameters, if I were you, I would advise going with the B14 HMR. Here's why:

1) The B14 HMR comes with a number of features that you otherwise would have to upgrade with a T3x. First and foremost, the stock. The HMR has a heavy stock fully adjustable for cheek rise and length of pull, with all the desired ergonomics of a premium non-folding PRS stock.

2) The 700 style action allows for plenty of pic rail mount choices for your optic, and the bolt handle is beefy.

3) The B14 HMR comes standard with a 5-round mag, and you can get 10-round AICS style mags for it. Not the case with the T3x.

4) I have nothing bad to say about Tikka's barrels, but Bergara is known for theirs. The HMR features a heavy bull barrel intended for precision shooting.

5) The B14 HMR barrel comes threaded, ready for your muzzle device of choice. I know some versions of T3x's will also, but again I'm comparing standard base models.

6) 3 swivel studs, so you can have a sling and mount a bipod. It also has QD cups. Redundancies are nice.

7) Did I mention the weight? When it comes to Precision shooting, a heavy setup is to your advantage. Once you mount a high-power optic, add a bipod, and attach a muzzle device, you're looking at about 14 lbs.

8) Pricewise, I got my B14 HMR for just under $900 new. T3x's are probably a bit less on average, but you'll pay the difference and then some to get a rifle with all the features that come with the HMR.


Each of these rifles is intended to serve a different purpose. The T3 Lite in stainless steel chambered for .30-06 is my main hunting rifle. Even with a fairly heavy 4-14x44 scope mounted it's just under 8 lbs. With 180 gr Barnes bullets, I get North American big game-killing power in a setup that suits my mountain hunting style very well. The HMR in 6.5 Creedmoor, on the other hand, is built for precision shooting, and what I'll always take to my local 1,000 yard range. YMMV. Like I said from the outset, when it comes to bolt guns, you're not making a poor choice either way. Identify the primary purpose of your rifle and go from there.

Yeah I’m not sure what I was thinking considering the T3X Lite. It’s really come down to a T3X CTR vs a B14 HMR.

I think I’m pretty solid on a T3X CTR. It seems the best choice. Even if there’s complaint about the stock feeling cheap, I see way more people complaining about accuracy issues and consistency with the HMR.

 

[Turkeytider]

So I’ve decided to get I want to give precision shooting with a bolt gun a try but I was hoping for some input.

I’ve narrowed it down to either a Tikka T3x Lite or Bergara B14 HMR. Those seem to be my best bet, especially based on availability being left handed.

I haven’t settled on a caliber although I’m leaning towards 6.5 Creedmoor., but .308 isn’t completely ruled out. I’m not sold on either one and not invested in either one outside of having half a case of M80 for my M1A. I know most say 6.5 is easier to shoot well but .308 will keep you honest and make you a better shooter. But I don’t really have any ranges longer than 300yards near me which has me leaning .308. But I can find longer ranges if I drive further.

As far as the rifles, I don’t have any intention of throwing it in a chassis, at least not right away, but I know being a lefty, there’s more options for the B14 being R700 based, ie KRG.

I like that the B14 takes AICS magazines as it is where the T3x needs new bottom metal. But the Tikka can take prefit barrels which would nice if I were to decide to change calibers for any reason. I also like the more vertical grip on the stock of the B14. But both seem to have great aftermarket support for a lefty.

I think the Bergara comes with a threaded barrel factory and the particular Tikka I was looking at doesn’t which obviously makes adding a muzzle device easier since I plan on eventually suppressing the rifle.

I see more people praising the reduced bolt throw (60° iirc) and smoothness of the Tikka action compared to the Bergara action (90°)

I’m planning on around $1k for just the rifle, then save up a bit for a scope and rings. Hopefully purchasing in the next month or so.

Any input would be greatly appreciated, if it seems long winded and rambling, the bolt gun world is new for me. Tell me what that pushed you to the T3x or B14 or anything that went into your decision. Also, I feel it’s probably worth mentioning I don’t reload.

I know that this will sound critical of Tikka rifles and I really don`t mean it to be so. They are very good factory rifles and I may own one soon myself. Having said that, I get the impression that one doesn`t get too far into any discussion of Tikka rifles without it quickly getting into pulling out the actions, discarding the original stock (?), and dropping the action into some aftermarket, and presumably better, stock. Are Tikka stocks REALLY that bad? I think I`ve seen as many Tikkas re-stocked as I have the much maligned ( on SH anyway ) Savage Axis line. As with Savage, does one have to get into the pricier models of Tikka rifles before one encounters out of the box acceptable , at least to the SH purists, OEM stocks?

 

[Dead Eye Dick]

Don't buy a Bergara, a Tikka or ANYTHING!

If you are really wanting to shoot Precision Rifle, Get Into A Good PRS style class where they have loaner rifles. You'll see what works, what doesn't, what you Really Need and what you don't, and you will find the type of rifle you like that can be expected to be a Precision Rifle.

Otherwise, you'll wind up spending a ton of money, for stuff you can't use, that just winds up being dust collectors in the back of your closet or unsafe. That would be money wasted that could have been spent on equipment/rifle(s) you want and can meet your purpose. Its an expensive sport, don't waste money on a rifle that isn't a useful piece of equipment.

While, I am not a fan of Tikka (When you look up "Bad Customer Service" in the dictionary, it says, SEE TIKKA). I believe Bergara's are alright, in other words, for what they are, I am sure they are fine rifles.....But.....If you want Precision, look first, check it out, give it a try, in the end, the money a good class such as those held by @Lowlight or @RobertB will get you started right. (and in the end, I promise you it will save you bucks. )

 

[Turkeytider]

Don't buy a Bergara, a Tikka or ANYTHING!

If you are really wanting to shoot Precision Rifle, Get Into A Good PRS style class where they have loaner rifles. You'll see what works, what doesn't, what you Really Need and what you don't, and you will find the type of rifle you like that can be expected to be a Precision Rifle.

Otherwise, you'll wind up spending a ton of money, for stuff you can't use, that just winds up being dust collectors in the back of your closet or unsafe. That would be money wasted that could have been spent on equipment/rifle(s) you want and can meet your purpose. Its an expensive sport, don't waste money on a rifle that isn't a useful piece of equipment.

While, I am not a fan of Tikka (When you look up "Bad Customer Service" in the dictionary, it says, SEE TIKKA). I believe Bergara's are alright, in other words, for what they are, I am sure they are fine rifles.....But.....If you want Precision, look first, check it out, give it a try, in the end, the money a good class such as those held by @Lowlight or @RobertB will get you started right. (and in the end, I promise you it will save you bucks. )

Hard to argue with that advice. It assumes, it appears to me, that if one wishes to get into PRS that there must be PRS meets within a reasonable distance. I suppose it also assumes that if there are PRS opportunities, that there must be PRS classes as well? I know next to nothing about PRS and PRS competition. I don`t suppose there`s such a thing as " informal " or " recreational " PRS as there is with bench rest target shooting?

 

[Turkeytider]

I started with a Tikka CTR in 6.5. Just getting a feel for longer range shooting and bolt guns. While I’ve upgraded the glass, put it in a KRG Bravo, and swapped the barrel to a PVA prefit, I don’t regret my decision.

Many would say, I could have a full custom for the combined money I have in it. I don’t mind. I still got into it with a lower starting cost, was actually shooting sooner and had fun seeing the transition.

Get what you want, upgrade if you want, and enjoy it.

Is there some sort of unwritten requirement that if you buy a Tikka CTR that you MUST jerk the action and barrel out of the original stock, throw said original stock away, and drop the guts of the rifle into a KRG Bravo or some similar after market stock ? Are Tikka stocks REALLY that bad? I`m struggling to recall a thread on Tikka CTRs that didn`t mention doing that within the first three posts or so. A CTR is one of the guns I`m considering but I`m not keen on buying a second stock. Gives me cause for pause on a purchase.

 

[Dead Eye Dick]

Hard to argue with that advice. It assumes, it appears to me, that if one wishes to get into PRS that there must be PRS meets within a reasonable distance. I suppose it also assumes that if there are PRS opportunities, that there must be PRS classes as well? I know next to nothing about PRS and PRS competition. I don`t suppose there`s such a thing as " informal " or " recreational " PRS as there is with bench rest target shooting?

Precision Rifle is not just about matches and competition. Being 75, I don’t shoot many competitions anymore. I like to attend matches and despite some issues beyond my control I do expect to shoot at least three more this year……

But, I enjoy shooting, just banging steel is fun. Shooting mock stages, and in my case, keeping a record, adds to the enjoyment. It’s the challenge. There are outlaw matches, but do consider, though the sport supports tons of matches every week, people need to remember, its not just about trophies, it is about having fun, and fun is whatever you make of it.

In the end, having correct equipment and technique, makes it a lot more fun, because the fun of shooting steel is shooting steel. Shooting dirt is pretty much pointless because dirt is pretty much already dead. (And saves a lot of money)

 

[HMRamateur]

Is there some sort of unwritten requirement that if you buy a Tikka CTR that you MUST jerk the action and barrel out of the original stock, throw said original stock away, and drop the guts of the rifle into a KRG Bravo or some similar after market stock ? Are Tikka stocks REALLY that bad? I`m struggling to recall a thread on Tikka CTRs that didn`t mention doing that within the first three posts or so. A CTR is one of the guns I`m considering but I`m not keen on buying a second stock. Gives me cause for pause on a purchase.

The CTR stocks are surprisingly good. They're stiffer than expected and are fairly ergonomic. Would be nice with more adjustability though. I bought a CTR .223 as a budget 500m rifle. I wasn't planning on doing any competitions at the time so I told myself it was good enough. And it is pretty damn good. The stock doesn't give anything up on accuracy and feels pretty nice to shoot considering what it is. The HMR stock is better though I will say that. I had an HMR pro and I had zero complaints about the stock. It was very nice for a factory stock.

And like I said I didn't plan on shooting any comps, well I bought a cadex chassis for my LH CTR and entered my first competition in April. If you only plan on shooting at the range, the stock is good enough. I wanted more though.

 

[Turkeytider]

The CTR stocks are surprisingly good. They're stiffer than expected and are fairly ergonomic. Would be nice with more adjustability though. I bought a CTR .223 as a budget 500m rifle. I wasn't planning on doing any competitions at the time so I told myself it was good enough. And it is pretty damn good. The stock doesn't give anything up on accuracy and feels pretty nice to shoot considering what it is. The HMR stock is better though I will say that. I had an HMR pro and I had zero complaints about the stock. It was very nice for a factory stock.

And like I said I didn't plan on shooting any comps, well I bought a cadex chassis for my LH CTR and entered my first competition in April. If you only plan on shooting at the range, the stock is good enough. I wanted more though.

Thanks. Appreciate the input. The Tikka CTR ( can`t decide on 20" or 24 " ) and Savage 12 LRP ( REALLY like my 12 LRPV in ,223 ), both in 6.5 Creed, are finalists for a range only, 1K yard rifle.

 

[JerkyFreak]

For long range, I'd choose the longer barrel. For that extra 4" you can get an extra 80-100 ft/s.

 

[RMS65]

First as far as Tikka stocks go. They're completely serviceable for recreational shooters like me. I have had a 223 Varmint for some time and for thousands of rounds it shoots great out to 500 yards. I just recently got 6.5 CM Varmint and it shoots 500 yards no problem. My 500 yard plate is 8". I just added a 10" at 625 two days ago and looking forward to trying it asap. Both guns are in the factory stocks. The 223, I ground out the pressure points just forward the action for zero improvement. The 6.5, I haven't touched. I'm fine using a factory stock with a simple harris bipod or even more simpler, resting on a towel thrown over the bottom rail.

Obviously I'm a casual shooter and know I have a lot to learn. Still it's my opinion that unless you're shooting competition where the margins between winning and losing are crazy tight, that theres more performance to be gained in proper training than expensive add ons.

I'd recommend taking a course and learn how to shoot. Then figure out how seriously you want to take this. If you decide to do it recreationally or your budget is tight, start with a CTR and skip the Begara. A nice stock and a crap action is a throw away gun. Between the 20 & 24" barrel, go with the 24. The extra velocity will help at 1000 yards and the extra weight will help stabilize the barrel.

Spending money on nice things like upgrades is fun if you have the money but it isn’t always necessary. My wife shoots box ammo through her bone stock $349 Howa 1500 in 223. She does better than most of the guys at the range with full chassis guns. Nice equipment is nice to have but it wont replace talent. Don't let all the Gucci gun guys guilt you into buying more shit than you need.

 

[N_Rebel]

Don't buy a Bergara, a Tikka or ANYTHING!

If you are really wanting to shoot Precision Rifle, Get Into A Good PRS style class where they have loaner rifles. You'll see what works, what doesn't, what you Really Need and what you don't, and you will find the type of rifle you like that can be expected to be a Precision Rifle.

Otherwise, you'll wind up spending a ton of money, for stuff you can't use, that just winds up being dust collectors in the back of your closet or unsafe. That would be money wasted that could have been spent on equipment/rifle(s) you want and can meet your purpose. Its an expensive sport, don't waste money on a rifle that isn't a useful piece of equipment.

While, I am not a fan of Tikka (When you look up "Bad Customer Service" in the dictionary, it says, SEE TIKKA). I believe Bergara's are alright, in other words, for what they are, I am sure they are fine rifles.....But.....If you want Precision, look first, check it out, give it a try, in the end, the money a good class such as those held by @Lowlight or @RobertB will get you started right. (and in the end, I promise you it will save you bucks. )

This. Show up, shoot loaner rifles and decide what works for you and what doesn't. Will save you big money in the long run.

Also.. buy once, cry once.

 

[Big Bo]

I have 3 Tikka rifles, and 2 Bergara rifles. The Tikka CTR 20" in 6.5 CM and a Bergara HMR Pro in 6.5 CM. The Tikka is in a KRG Bravo chassis , the Bergara in the factory chassis. FOR ME, the fit of the Bergara chassis fits best. I purchased the 6.5 Tikka first with the 20" bbl, and then wanted a 24" bbl. Both shoot amazingly well. BUT IN MY CASE, I prefer the Bergara THAT I own. It just shoots lights out. It has a thing for Prime 130gr, and does very well with the Hornady 140's.
When I went looking for a fast twist 22-250 I went Tikka because of the weight of the Bergara.

 

[Deadsquiggles]

First as far as Tikka stocks go. They're completely serviceable for recreational shooters like me. I have had a 223 Varmint for some time and for thousands of rounds it shoots great out to 500 yards. I just recently got 6.5 CM Varmint and it shoots 500 yards no problem. My 500 yard plate is 8". I just added a 10" at 625 two days ago and looking forward to trying it asap. Both guns are in the factory stocks. The 223, I ground out the pressure points just forward the action for zero improvement. The 6.5, I haven't touched. I'm fine using a factory stock with a simple harris bipod or even more simpler, resting on a towel thrown over the bottom rail.

Obviously I'm a casual shooter and know I have a lot to learn. Still it's my opinion that unless you're shooting competition where the margins between winning and losing are crazy tight, that theres more performance to be gained in proper training than expensive add ons.

I'd recommend taking a course and learn how to shoot. Then figure out how seriously you want to take this. If you decide to do it recreationally or your budget is tight, start with a CTR and skip the Begara. A nice stock and a crap action is a throw away gun. Between the 20 & 24" barrel, go with the 24. The extra velocity will help at 1000 yards and the extra weight will help stabilize the barrel.

Spending money on nice things like upgrades is fun if you have the money but it isn’t always necessary. My wife shoots box ammo through her bone stock $349 Howa 223 better than most of the guys at the range with full chassis guns. Nice equipment is nice to have but it wont replace talent. Don't let all the Gucci gun guys guilt you into buying more shit than you need.

I was able to handle a right handed CTR at local shop a couple days ago and found the CTR to be perfectly comfortable. Nothing that would need to be replaced right away. Good luck finding a left handed 24” CTR right now, I can only find 20” anywhere and probably gonna “settle” for the 20” unless 24”’s magically come back in stock somewhere in the near future.

This. Show up, shoot loaner rifles and decide what works for you and what doesn't. Will save you big money in the long run.

Also.. buy once, cry once.

I’d love to be able to do this but I think the closest match I’ve found is like 3 hours from me.

As far as cry once, buy once, I’m with you on that. But i look at it more as buy once, cry once, but only buy what you need. I’ve looked into an Origin action and barrel which really only costs about $1300-$1400. But then it’s still another $400-$500 in a stock.

 

[LeftyJason]

I was able to handle a right handed CTR at local shop a couple days ago and found the CTR to be perfectly comfortable. Nothing that would need to be replaced right away. Good luck finding a left handed 24” CTR right now, I can only find 20” anywhere and probably gonna “settle” for the 20” unless 24”’s magically come back in stock somewhere in the near future.

I’d love to be able to do this but I think the closest match I’ve found is like 3 hours from me.

As far as cry once, buy once, I’m with you on that. But i look at it more as buy once, cry once, but only buy what you need. I’ve looked into an Origin action and barrel which really only costs about $1300-$1400. But then it’s still another $400-$500 in a stock.

Left handed options in heavier barrels aren't really imported except for these listed.

These are the currently imported heavy barrel tikkas in lefty. There are no imported stainless heavy barrel options in lefty. Hence why I bought my t3x as a lite stainless.

Jrtxc482 for a lefty 6.5 ctr (not showing 308) 20"

jrtac416l 308 a1 23.7"

jrtac482l 6.5 a1 23.7"

jrtat482l brown 6.5a1 23.7"

They only import the Jrt prefix models. Why they list the others I have no idea. Not even the Beretta flagship stores can get them in.

Just looked at 223 options in a ctr. There used to be a few, jrtxc414r12, jrtxc314r8, jrtxc414r8l. They were all 20". There once was a 24" 223 sporter jrtxn512l. Each of those 4 show discontinued on eurooptic site.

TLDR there are no currently imported available 24" ctr's. If you find one in the wild it is new old stock.

 

[Deadsquiggles]

Left handed options in heavier barrels aren't really imported except for these listed.

These are the currently imported heavy barrel tikkas in lefty. There are no imported stainless heavy barrel options in lefty. Hence why I bought my t3x as a lite stainless.

Jrtxc482 for a lefty 6.5 ctr (not showing 308) 20"

jrtac416l 308 a1 23.7"

jrtac482l 6.5 a1 23.7"

jrtat482l brown 6.5a1 23.7"

They only import the Jrt prefix models. Why they list the others I have no idea. Not even the Beretta flagship stores can get them in.

Just looked at 223 options in a ctr. There used to be a few, jrtxc414r12, jrtxc314r8, jrtxc414r8l. They were all 20". There once was a 24" 223 sporter jrtxn512l. Each of those 4 show discontinued on eurooptic site.

TLDR there are no currently imported available 24" ctr's. If you find one in the wild it is new old stock.

Ahhhh thanks for the info. Definitely explains why I can only find the 20’s. Sounds like I’ll be going with the 20” CTR 6.5.

Edit to add: Just ordered a CTR through Eurooptic. Now to start researching scopes.

 

[RMS65]

Ahhhh thanks for the info. Definitely explains why I can only find the 20’s. Sounds like I’ll be going with the 20” CTR 6.5.

Edit to add: Just ordered a CTR through Eurooptic. Now to start researching scopes.

Ahh the fun begins. And you thought picking the gun was tough? Lmfao.

EuroOptic is good. I ordered my 17 Tikka and a bunch of other stuff from them.

Congratulations!!

 

[Deadsquiggles]

Ahh the fun begins. And you thought picking the gun was tough? Lmfao.

EuroOptic is good. I ordered my 17 Tikka and a bunch of other stuff from them.

Congratulations!!

I feel like I have a better starting point in mind for the scope somehow. 4-20ish or 5-25ish, FFP, tree reticle. Just depending on how much I wanna spend, I was considering the Strike Eagle 5-25 or Viper 5-25, both EBR-7C in mils or the Leupold Mk4HD 6-24 PR2 in mils. But I still gotta do some reading cause I’m sure there’s better options out there.