Hunting & Fishing First Time Rifle Build - Need Assistance/ Opinions

[RG4 - PNW - Mr. Sharp]

Hello,

I am looking to do a 300 Win Mag build for the first time and wanted to have some assistance/ other options to see what others think before building. I am planning on using this for hunting big game long distance in the greater Pacific North West where it is wet most of the year with rain and snow surrounded by lots of mountains and trees.

I have created a list of parts that I think will be fine for the build and would love for some opinions

Parts list:
- Rifle Chassis - Masterpiece Arms - Ultra Lite Chassis Defiance Rebel Long Action
- Action - Defiance Rebel Long Action Hunter - Heavy Style Rear Tang, Ball Knob, Controlled Round Feed, and 3 Position Safety Shrouder
- Trigger - Bix’n Andy - Rem700 Benchrest Two Stage Trigger (No Safety)
- Barrel - Brux - Stainless Steel 26" or 27” 30 Caliber (300-308) #17 Heavy Varmint, 1:10 Rotation
- Muzzle Brake - Precision Armament - M41 Severe-Duty™ Muzzle Brake (not quite sure of this one yet but like the look of it)
- Scope - I haven't decided on the scope yet and would love suggestions

Thank you

 

[Rthur]

What species are you planning on hunting?

R

 

[RG4 - PNW - Mr. Sharp]

What species are you planning on hunting?

R

I will be using it for elk, moose, black bears and anything that comes up

 

[brianf]

if your hunting in woods / not long range stuff
shorten the barrel to 24"
that extra 2" catches on every tree and shrub
you not loosing any power under 500 yards that a animal with notice
dump the muzzle brake or make it removable with a cap, one shot at 300 yards doesnt need a muzzle brake
just add length and a few ounces that you have to carry around

 

[RG4 - PNW - Mr. Sharp]

I was going to make it a long range riffle but also use it for hunting, I was going to have the muzzle brake removable so I could travel with it.

I was going to do a two stage trigger, what should the two weights be sitting at?

But other then that, everything should be relatively good with weight and configuration?

Thank you for your help!

 

[brianf]

in general your rifle looks GTG

should be a shooter

there are a bunch of threads for dual use rifles..i have one in 300wm myself

they never do either one perfect as could be imagined

target shooting you want light trigger and hunting you want 3#

i have 2.5 - 3 on most of my rifles in general

1lb trigger with gloves, heart racing in the woods dont always work well together IMO

 

[longgunJR]

Any particular reason you have a preference for controlled round feed?

 

[RG4 - PNW - Mr. Sharp]

Any particular reason you have a preference for controlled round feed?

Not really, what would you recommend?

 

[longgunJR]

I actually just picked up my 1st ever custom action, short action Rebel. Had a talk with my smith about push feed vs CRF before the build and ended up going with PRF. Not only will it save you money, but the push style has proven itself out there to be a good reliable system. I'd say is very much a preference thing.

I'm actually planning a magnum build down the road as well, since I reload 7mm SAUM is what I've decided on, seems to be a very efficient cartridge and doesn't loose much if any to the belted magnums. To me it's big enough for any North American game at the ranges I'm comfortable shooting at.

 

[lancetkenyon]

I think not having a safety on any rifle is a poor decision. I know we are the ultimate safety, but a mechanical back-up can save you in a pinch.

Rifle is going to be heavy. I have some heavy long range rifles. They are great for glassing and shooting, but suck to carry. You can shave some weight by going to a Proof barrel. But at about double the cost for the blank. Ounces cost dollars.

I like really light triggers for hunting. All of mine are between 8oz and 1.5#.

As far as scopes, seems like you are building a top end rifle. Might as well go with a top tier scope. S&B PMII, Tangent Theta, ZCO, Minox.

 

[45.308]

I know the paradigm shift is on for hunters to build and use heavy super accurate rifles and even wanting to take shots out to 800 yards. If you are dead set on building you have the parts list for a good shooter. My only point would be a shorter barrel. I carried 26" tube for a long time and that extra inch or two always seemed to be a nuisance.

My recommendation would be a Tikka T3x in 300 win topped with Leupy 2.5-8 scope for hunting. Use the weight savings to ease the muscle load toting the rifle in steep twisted terrain and the nuggets saved for hunting trips.

good luck and happy hunting

 

[XLR308]

I will second the opinion of having a safety is a must have. On a bench rest rifle shot from a front rest and rear bag only a safety isn't an issue but a rifle being carried all over the country side being handle frequently with a light trigger and no safety is asking for trouble.
Another consideration is an all aluminum chassis in cold weather for me anyway is less than ideal.

 

[BCX]

Heavy Varmint barrel is to heavy to be lugging through the mountains.

 

[tlsmith22]

I second the idea to go with a proof barrel. I just finished a 300wm with a proof barrel and manners EH1 elite stock.

 

[BCX]

My Proof barrel 338 LM AI shoots as good as my Bartleins w half the weight!

 

[Nitrosteel]

I think he meant the trigger itself didn’t have a safety- but he listed 3 position safety.

 

[kabarNC]

My opinion:

Ditch the MPA chassis and go with a nice composite stock, there's nothing that leeches heat outta your hands like holding a freezing piece of aluminum when it's cold and wet out.
Don't go longer than 24" on the barrel unless you're not hunting in trees. Also Evolved Ballistics is a great place to buy a Proof carbon fiber barrel.
I'd suggest to go with a caliber down the lines of 6.5PRC if actually using as a crossover gun. Lightweight .300WMs aren't terribly much fun to shoot long strings with recreationally.
Take note of the weight of the muzzle brake if trying to lighten a rifle, it makes a noticeable difference in balance.

 

[XLR308]

I think he meant the trigger itself didn’t have a safety- but he listed 3 position safety.

I completely missed that part. ?

 

[Nitrosteel]

I agree with going with a stock instead of chassis for the same reason - but I know that is a matter of preference and you probably have your reasons.

 

[MountainRogue]

GAP Non Typical Hunter is perfect for what you want to achieve. Flute the barrel for reduced weight.

 

[Swampr42]

I would also ditch the chassis for a composite stock.

 

[Swampr42]

I will be using it for elk, moose, black bears and anything that comes up

I think 300wm is perfect for the animals you plan on hunting, 180gr Accubonds is what I hunt with in Washington.

 

[hereinaz]

Get a composite stock and proof CF like others said. You can end up with a 10 or 12 pound rifle, which doesn't suck to carry in the mountains. It will still shoot tiny groups.

Shoot the 190 or 210 Berger on everything but bear. Get an Accubond or Partition for that.