Flash hole deburring tool

[M40_A1]

I see flash hole deburring tools that also open up the flash hole (uniform), and I see flash hole deburring tools that index off of the mouth of the case for depth.

I don't want to change the size of my flash holes, and I don't want to index off of something as potentially variable as the mouth.

Does anyone make a deburring tool that will not alter the flash hole size, and which indexes directly on the inside base of the brass instead of the mouth? Seems simple enough, but I can't seem to find anyone that makes one that way.

 

[Pinecone]

Lyman

Lyman Flash Hole Uniformer Tool

Just take the case mouth stop off. Then a quick twist will deburr the flash hole.

 

[dmike]

I like the K&M. The case mouth guide just centers the shaft.

 

[copterdrvr]

GEN II UNIVERSAL FLASHHOLE DEBURRING TOOL | Sinclair Intl

Cuts them all to the same shape and depth every time.

 

[rockdoc]

I use the K&M. However it guides off the case mouth to centre tool. I have no problems up to 500 Nitro cases.

Cheers, Chris

 

[copterdrvr]

Just to clarify, the little vid they show for the Sinclair is the OLD style one that indexes off of the case mouth. The new Gen II that's at the link indexes off of the web of the case so all of the cases are cut to the exact same depth and shape. The "cone" just helps to keep the shaft more in line with the primer orifice for a straight cut.

I'm using it for .223 and .308.

 

[oldfudd]

I use a tapered RCBS deburring cutter that can just center the rod in the case neck, or is adjustable to register depth of cut off of the case mouth. Depends on what you want it to register on. Remember, this is to be used internally to cut off any jagged brass flashings that are left after punching the flash hole.

 

[STI_1911_Guy]

Dont think to much into this. Just use the Lyman and remove the cone, give it a quick twist and your good to go.

 

[Deadshot2]

GEN II UNIVERSAL FLASHHOLE DEBURRING TOOL | Sinclair Intl

Cuts them all to the same shape and depth every time.

+ 1 on this tool. Has a shoulder that prevents over chamfering of the flash hole. Also chucks in a Cordless drill well. I find that this tool rarely has to "open up" a flash hole but if I run into a piece of brass where it does, it merely makes the hole more close to the rest of my brass.

I find I need to use this tool on all Winchester brass (and any of their private brand brass) but it's a waste of time on Lapua.

 

[Victor N TN]

Try this or similar but maybe different size...: https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/01044155 I used a long thin center drill when I first started shooting benchrest. In the early 1990s there were no factory made units.

 

[Rob01]

Have you ever tested to see if there is any difference in accuracy or chrono numbers with the flash hole burr and without? I have. I don't spend my time deburring anymore. I know it only has to be done once and it makes some people feel better but in my testing it shows no discernible difference between cases with this done and without. Test yourself and see before spending more money on tools.

 

[Deadshot2]

Have you ever tested to see if there is any difference in accuracy or chrono numbers with the flash hole burr and without? I have. I don't spend my time deburring anymore. I know it only has to be done once and it makes some people feel better but in my testing it shows no discernible difference between cases with this done and without. Test yourself and see before spending more money on tools.

Some cases have a real nasty problem with "chad" attached to the edge of the flash hole. Sometimes enough where you can't look through the flash hole without seeing that 'flap' partially obscuring it. I had a full bag of Winchester brass that was like that.

I agree that it's not worth the time unless you have the problem I described or are using better quality brass.

 

[Victor N TN]

I may be mistaken. But if I remember correctly, Lapua and some Norma cases are drilled. All others, especially US made is punched. I deburr all my match brass same as my benchrest.

 

[M40_A1]

Thank you to everyone who has responded. I appreciate your taking the time to help.

A question regarding the Lyman tool. What regulates the depth and attitude of cut if the centering cone is removed?

All the tools mentioned seem to have cutting flutes on the actual flash hole pin. Am I mistaken? Aren't there any that just have simple straight pins as a guide that aren't designed to cut?

I already have the Redding tool with a .30 caliber pilot, but it has a .080" flash hole uniformer that opens flash holes up more than I want. Maybe the .062" K&M tool is the only way to go. Even though it is a uniformer, maybe .062" is small enough to not open up most flash holes too much? Or, being for PPC, would the chamfer cutter even engage the corner of standard sized flash holes?

 

[dmike]

Maybe the .062" K&M tool is the only way to go. Even though it is a uniformer, maybe .062" is small enough to not open up most flash holes too much? Or, being for PPC, would the chamfer cutter even engage the corner of standard sized flash holes?

The K&M barely removes any material, it doesn't seem to open up the flash holes on my cases. It seems like it's just catching any flaps that got punched in during manufacture. I just ran through 100 SWA cases, I could feel it working but there was about 0.1 gr or less worth of brass dust afterward. Probably completely unnecessary as Rob01 suggested, but it's so fast and you don't really know how smooth the hole is until you get in there and by then it's done. I had one guy swear that was the secret to his accuracy so I'm still dinking around with it, but I may end up like Rob01 before too long.