Hey guys I have a 6 month old flir pts536 that I have been using and love but the other night I was headed out to hunt, I stopped for a bit and scanned, then turned it off. After that it will not turn back on. I have tried new batteries, new battery cassettes, plugging in to a computer, using a battery pack, letting it sit, adjusting the battery door, etc and nothing's working. I had it turn on once randomly but 15min later it would not turn on again. Anyone experienced something like this? I'm pretty concerned about warranty work considering flir dropped OTS so I want to do as much myself as I can..thanks in advance!
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Night Vision Flir pts536 issue
- Thread starter fifdynutz
- Start date
Between me and a couple of my buds, we have 11 PTS Thermosights 233's, 536's and 736. We have had zero issues with any of them. I would say that unit will have to go back to Flir. We have been extremely happy with their durability, lack of problems and performance.
Musta figured out you were using it for hunting. FLIR don't like dat.
called Flir and they directed me to the OTS inquiry specific email i have to send it to. he said most of the people there know nothing about firearm related items and there are only a few people who handle OTS issues.....YIPPIE!!!
So if they cant fix that one tell em they can send the below as a replacement and everything will be cool beans with you.
ThermoSight HISS-XLR Long Range Cooled Thermal Sniper Sight | Teledyne FLIR
The ThermoSight® HISS-XLR clip-on thermal weapon sight allows snipers to detect and recognize man-size targets in excess of 2,000 meters, an increase in engagement range of more than 25% compared to previous models. Designed to mount on any MIL-STD-1913 rail interface forward of an existing...
I'd do that deal haha...so far the email route sent me back to the automated system in flirs site.. I made an rma case and they already approved it and sent a return label...smooth sailing so far
once you figure it out and get it fixed....stop turning shit off and on between stands or hunts. power it on and leave it on until youre done for the night.
Use an external battery pack if you are burning through CR123s. I use a battery pack on all my thermal scopes. The 536 even has a picatinny rail on the side to attach. Good luck.
Well here is you some ideas. That is a pimped out PTS 233. I turned that pic rail into a ho.
She will run 11.5 hours wide ass open. There is zero wiggle or way the USB C plug can even come out of the 233. The Anchor battery press up beside it firmly to hold it in place and also to protect the USB C port. This is a snag proof setup. Everything else I have seen out there by others will snag the cable. Here is real Redneck Engineering at its finest.
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Well here is you some ideas. That is a pimped out PTS 233. I turned that pic rail into a ho.
She will run 11.5 hours wide ass open. There is zero wiggle or way the USB C plug can even come out of the 233. The Anchor battery press up beside it firmly to hold it in place and also to protect the USB C port. This is a snag proof setup. Everything else I have seen out there by others will snag the cable. Here is real Redneck Engineering at its finest.
View attachment 7429537
Rednecks FTW!
That be a WN&H special battery pack.
Instructions: 10 inch cable is better than the 12 inch (regardless of what the women say
) if you can source it. Less cable to wrap so it does not snag. Take some bicycle inner tube and wrap around the part of the Anker battery by the C Port until when mounted it provides good snug pressure up against the C port that goes into the PTS Thermosight. Then wrap whatever portions your want with good electrical tape to lock down any cable to battery. Total cost $35ish. FYI you have to go with that 34/35 mm rings to fit around the Anker Battery.https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32824584955.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.swYaZz
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerCore-Ultra-Compact-High-Speed-Technology/dp/B01CU1EC6Y
When you finally/hopefully get it back, just hook a car battery with a voltage regulator onto it and never turn it off again !
Should only add about 20 pounds to overall weight, but you'll never have to worry about it not turning on again !
Seriously, Before I bought my latest pulsar thermal, FLIR was top choice for me on the list(even had one on backorder with TNVC), then the rumors started flying around about them ditching the civilian mkt.
Not saying it's a bad scope, as many are around and have had no issues, but what your going through now is what kept me from buying anything from FLIR as a civilian.
Civilians are third in line.
Should only add about 20 pounds to overall weight, but you'll never have to worry about it not turning on again !
Seriously, Before I bought my latest pulsar thermal, FLIR was top choice for me on the list(even had one on backorder with TNVC), then the rumors started flying around about them ditching the civilian mkt.
Not saying it's a bad scope, as many are around and have had no issues, but what your going through now is what kept me from buying anything from FLIR as a civilian.
Civilians are third in line.
Following this thread with interest. I bought a couple PTS536 last year and they literally shut down the OTS division about 2 weeks later. They claimed they would still stand by their warranty and service as needed. Looks like they are past the turnaround time (or maybe it is 25 working days?) Keep us posted on your experiences.
Following this! I have a 536, no issues to speak of but I am new to the thermal game. When this unit is running I can hear an audible “click” every 30-40 seconds. Is that normal on these scopes? Great info in this thread! I gotta get an external battery pack and 132’s aint cheap!
Yeah it is NUCing. All thermals have to NUC to correct up the temperature on the sensors so they are giving a good readout and image.
I have found the Flir PTS Pro 233's, 536, and 736 to be excellent durable thermal scopes. The little old Breach has been a good durable unit as well and NUC's quite often.
If using the PTS536, I would recommend turning off the automatic shot recording feature. It has a tendancy to lock up the scope. It was a far more reliable thermal with it off than on. The 536 is a good long-range scope. However, it has a very limited Field of View at only 4.5°.
You right about a narrow FOV but I personally like that when shooting running animals because it puts me in the "tunnel" for very accurate leads that results in some spectacular head shots on wide open running hogs and the resulting flip when you nail them like that.
People have different shooting styles and skills. For me, I gotta be down in that "narrow tunnel" all focused on the task, just me and the critter so I can do my thing.
People have different shooting styles and skills. For me, I gotta be down in that "narrow tunnel" all focused on the task, just me and the critter so I can do my thing.
got the scope back yesterday from getting "fixed". still wouldnt turn on, then suddenly the screen popped on. after messing with it for a while i took the battery cassette out, hooked up an external anker battery pack and powered that up, then the scope. so far it has turned on fairly consistently with varying timeframes of power up....i still have 0 trust in this thing and im considering sending it back again hoping to get a new scope that i can feel good about selling to someone.
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