I am going to attempting my first build soon and am trying to acquire all the tools. Which floating reamer holders work the best. I have been considering a Bald Eagle and JGS. Any input on either one of these would be helpful.
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Re: Floating Reamer Holders??
I have only used the bald eagle, it works okay I guess. I have not had any run out to speak of but think I would get the same results pushing the reamer with a dead center and holding it with a wrench.
I have only used the bald eagle, it works okay I guess. I have not had any run out to speak of but think I would get the same results pushing the reamer with a dead center and holding it with a wrench.
Re: Floating Reamer Holders??
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: eddybo</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have only used the bald eagle, it works okay I guess. I have not had any run out to speak of but think I would get the same results pushing the reamer with a dead center and holding it with a wrench. </div></div>
that will work if your tailstock is perfectly aligned with the barrel bore axis. it may not result in run out but will oversize the chamber if it's not aligned. i also use the bald eagle but have nothing else to compare it to.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: eddybo</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have only used the bald eagle, it works okay I guess. I have not had any run out to speak of but think I would get the same results pushing the reamer with a dead center and holding it with a wrench. </div></div>
that will work if your tailstock is perfectly aligned with the barrel bore axis. it may not result in run out but will oversize the chamber if it's not aligned. i also use the bald eagle but have nothing else to compare it to.
Re: Floating Reamer Holders??
I have a Bald Eagle, have not used it yet.
Last few I did I pushed the reamer with the flat of the toolpost.
Check to make sure the toolpost, or any surface you wish to use, is perpendicular to the work. Then just hold the reamer with a wrench and feed with the carriage travel wheel or the compound. The reamer can pretty much float. Of course, having the bore running true is important. Theorectically, the floating holders allow for less than perfect setup.
Just an opnion from someone who does not do this for a living.
I have a Bald Eagle, have not used it yet.
Last few I did I pushed the reamer with the flat of the toolpost.
Check to make sure the toolpost, or any surface you wish to use, is perpendicular to the work. Then just hold the reamer with a wrench and feed with the carriage travel wheel or the compound. The reamer can pretty much float. Of course, having the bore running true is important. Theorectically, the floating holders allow for less than perfect setup.
Just an opnion from someone who does not do this for a living.
Re: Floating Reamer Holders??
Unless your cutting a taper or somthing the tailstock should be checked to make sure that its perfectly in line or you will end up with poorly drilled holes as well as over sized chambers.
The dead center method works great , make sure that the wrench cant contact the bed in any way , this way if the reamer binds any at all you can simply turn it loose so you don't jack the chamber up any worse that it is.
Unless your cutting a taper or somthing the tailstock should be checked to make sure that its perfectly in line or you will end up with poorly drilled holes as well as over sized chambers.
The dead center method works great , make sure that the wrench cant contact the bed in any way , this way if the reamer binds any at all you can simply turn it loose so you don't jack the chamber up any worse that it is.
Re: Floating Reamer Holders??
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: JJones75</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Unless your cutting a taper or somthing the tailstock should be checked to make sure that its perfectly in line or you will end up with poorly drilled holes as well as over sized chambers.
The dead center method works great , make sure that the wrench cant contact the bed in any way , this way if the reamer binds any at all you can simply turn it loose so you don't jack the chamber up any worse that it is. </div></div>
is your tailstock height exactly the same as the spindle axis in all temperatures? my tailstock is on average .0015" high but it varies a few tenths when the shop temperature can be between 30* to 100*+. i bet there are going to be similar results with most lathes unless you are using an expensive machine in climate controlled conditions.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: JJones75</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Unless your cutting a taper or somthing the tailstock should be checked to make sure that its perfectly in line or you will end up with poorly drilled holes as well as over sized chambers.
The dead center method works great , make sure that the wrench cant contact the bed in any way , this way if the reamer binds any at all you can simply turn it loose so you don't jack the chamber up any worse that it is. </div></div>
is your tailstock height exactly the same as the spindle axis in all temperatures? my tailstock is on average .0015" high but it varies a few tenths when the shop temperature can be between 30* to 100*+. i bet there are going to be similar results with most lathes unless you are using an expensive machine in climate controlled conditions.
Re: Floating Reamer Holders??
I have used the Gre-tan style, pushing with a dead center, and use now a JGS holder. I actually like the JGS holder the best...once the bore dialed in, my runout at the back of the chamber is usually .0002" or less. But I think this would be the case with any of the holders or dead center as long as the bore was dialed in and the tailstock was aligned. Alot of ways to skin this cat.
I have used the Gre-tan style, pushing with a dead center, and use now a JGS holder. I actually like the JGS holder the best...once the bore dialed in, my runout at the back of the chamber is usually .0002" or less. But I think this would be the case with any of the holders or dead center as long as the bore was dialed in and the tailstock was aligned. Alot of ways to skin this cat.
Re: Floating Reamer Holders??
Shouldn't the tailstock be above the spindle axis, so that when you tighten up (lock in place) the tailstock it lowers to the same height?
I have a Bald Eagle, and there's so much play that I use small O-ring to remove some of it (the holder is still fully floating).
Shouldn't the tailstock be above the spindle axis, so that when you tighten up (lock in place) the tailstock it lowers to the same height?
I have a Bald Eagle, and there's so much play that I use small O-ring to remove some of it (the holder is still fully floating).
Re: Floating Reamer Holders??
I put a $7 tap wrench on the reamer and push it with a $6 #3MT to Jacobs taper drill chuck arbor adapter in the tail stock.
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INLMKD&PMPXNO=943350&PMAKA=290-3244
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INLMKD&PMPXNO=942414&PMAKA=325-8116
That is about as floating as you can get for $13.
I put a $7 tap wrench on the reamer and push it with a $6 #3MT to Jacobs taper drill chuck arbor adapter in the tail stock.
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INLMKD&PMPXNO=943350&PMAKA=290-3244
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INLMKD&PMPXNO=942414&PMAKA=325-8116
That is about as floating as you can get for $13.
