Getting set up for Duracoating

[Tip em over]

Any suggestions or photo's on some of your set-ups for Duracoating firearms?
Looking to get set-up to do some rifles and maybe a little stencil work as well.
I've got a good compressor is it so far. I'm guessing I'll need a regulator/filter?
What kind of sprayers? Touch-up automotive style, airbrush??
Thanks

 

[Jimmy2Times]

Re: Getting set up for Duracoating

Well I know that this may not be a popular opinion here, but in my experience with it, Duracoat sucks. Duracoat scratches off with the slightest contact from just about anything. You carelessly pull your weapon out of your case and drag it across the zipper (who doesn't do that from time to time?) one time and your Duracoat finish is gone. I have found it to be completely undurable and the stuff I had Duracoated was done by a professional. I would recommend going with another finish.

Just my 2 cents. Anyone who loves Duracoat, good for you.

 

[Tip em over]

Re: Getting set up for Duracoating

Just looking for equipment suggestions for spraying any of the various finishes.
Thanks

 

[Texas_Republic]

Re: Getting set up for Duracoating

what is the best price/work for duracoating a DPMS? Ive looked around on the internet but you cant tell much from websites..any suggestions out there?

 

[Bonk1999]

Re: Getting set up for Duracoating

Hi there. Duracoat is very easy to use and, at least for me, has worn well on all the firearms I've put it on.

I have used an Airbrush and a HVLP sprayer. I have found that the Airbrush is a PITA. I was always stopping to clean the brush. It was also very splotchy. (technical term) The finish was also very uneven. It did work after quite a bit of tuning. I bought the airbrush and propellant from an arts and crafts store here locally. But you can get them online.

I have since swithed to an HVLP sprayer I bought online. It cost about $30.00 and came with a regulator. It is an automotive type with a 1.0mm nozzle. I have a very small compressor and it works just fine. Now I get a very smooth finish. Much faster and no streaks or splotches. Just a nice even finish. I also use templetes for camo jobs. I have done 7 or 8 rifles and a couple of handguns. I really like duracoat. The finished product looks great.

I would recommend the auto sprayer. Much better finish, faster and you'll save a lot of money not having to buy propellant.

Good luck and have fun.

 

[LS6TT]

Re: Getting set up for Duracoating

how much prep is involved?

 

[SgtKope]

Re: Getting set up for Duracoating

I have had good luck with duracoat. I duracoated my H&K USP and I really bang that gun around. Plus it has gone in and out of a holster hundreds of times. It doesn't have a scratch on it.

 

[Bonk1999]

Re: Getting set up for Duracoating

Just clean it up, break it down and spray it. I use acetone and lacquer thinner to clean up prior to spraying the Duracoat. Let it sit and dry for a while. Then go for it. If you re going to spray multiple colors, I would let each color sit overnight. And make sure that it is warm when you spray.

 

[Captain Moroni]

Re: Getting set up for Duracoating

With duracoat prep is everything everything needs to be sand blasted with aluminum oxide if not parkerized the new duraphos works well to.
Texas Republic, PM inbound

 

[Megacab]

Re: Getting set up for Duracoating

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Jimmy2Times</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Well I know that this may not be a popular opinion here, but in my experience with it, Duracoat sucks. Duracoat scratches off with the slightest contact from just about anything. You carelessly pull your weapon out of your case and drag it across the zipper (who doesn't do that from time to time?) one time and your Duracoat finish is gone. I have found it to be completely undurable and the stuff I had Duracoated was done by a professional. I would recommend going with another finish.

Just my 2 cents. Anyone who loves Duracoat, good for you. </div></div>


Who did the Duracoat job that scratches off?
Sounds like shitty prep.

I had my Remmy PSS Duracoated twice. I think the guy that did it the first time just recieved it, skipped any prep, and went spray crazy. Super shitty job to say the least. Quality? Not even close. Then I sent it to Todd (30calsniper) and he stripped it all off and redid it the RIGHT way. It was bulletproof and I never had a single problem. Something tells me that if GAP, Manner's, and US Optics uses Todd to Duracoat their products, it has to be durable. One bad experience doesn't classify an entire product.

 

[Texas_Republic]

Re: Getting set up for Duracoating

Anyone use the mission specific paint later on once the duracoat has been applied? supposedly its easily removed and you can change it up from month to month if you want. With the duracoat being the permanent base of course.

 

[Texas_Republic]

Re: Getting set up for Duracoating

Anyone use the mission specific paint later on once the duracoat has been applied? supposedly its easily removed and you can change it up from month to month if you want. With the duracoat being the permanent base of course.

 

[Nocalphoenix]

Re: Getting set up for Duracoating

Depends on what you plan on using to remove the top coat. Other than heat cured ceracote most of the finishes I have used are still susceptible to solvents well after the factory recommended cure times.

I will second the response of others that prep is everything. I humored myself by spraying a steel sample will varying degrees of prep. I used a section polished to 600 grit to represent a well polished barrel, 200grit as recommended by some to scuff the surface and surfaces blasted with both 120 Alum oxide and 60grit monterey sand (aka paving stone sand).

I used the same batch of duracoat to cover the entire piece of steel and let it cure for 30days. Nothing high tech to test the results but the 600grit could be scratched off with your fingernail, the 200 grit with heavy force on a plastic spoon and the blasted areas could not be removed by the plastic spoon. Also the blasted areas by nature came out a little thicker and show no signs of corrosion.

I would feel comfortable using the 200grit on small parts you do not want to blast but hit everything else with either of the medias. I still have not perfected my methods to deal with close tolerance parts and have given up doing bolts or slide rails.

 

[wnroscoe]

Re: Getting set up for Duracoating

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Tip em over</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Any suggestions or photo's on some of your set-ups for Duracoating firearms?
Looking to get set-up to do some rifles and maybe a little stencil work as well.
I've got a good compressor is it so far. I'm guessing I'll need a regulator/filter?
What kind of sprayers? Touch-up automotive style, airbrush??
Thanks </div></div>


You can buy a small HVLP touch up gun from Harbor Freight for around $40.00, it'll pay for itself on the first job. I'd use that and not an airbrush. Use the small regulator and spray at 20-25psi. The most important thing is prep the metal properly. Blast with 120 grit AO at 40Lbs and degrease thoroughly with brake parts cleaner and or MEK. Spray into the scope base holes really good. Pre-heat the parts prior to painting with a small heat gun or propane torch, maybe 100-150 degrees.

The biggest problem I've seen with duracoat is lack of metal prep, with out, it comes off in sheets in the blast cabinet.

 

[Smash]

Re: Getting set up for Duracoating

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: wnroscoe</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Tip em over</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Any suggestions or photo's on some of your set-ups for Duracoating firearms?
Looking to get set-up to do some rifles and maybe a little stencil work as well.
I've got a good compressor is it so far. I'm guessing I'll need a regulator/filter?
What kind of sprayers? Touch-up automotive style, airbrush??
Thanks </div></div>

You can buy a small HVLP touch up gun from Harbor Freight for around $40.00, it'll pay for itself on the first job. I'd use that and not an airbrush. Use the small regulator and spray at 20-25psi. The most important thing is prep the metal properly. Blast with 120 grit AO at 40Lbs and degrease thoroughly with brake parts cleaner and or MEK. Spray into the scope base holes really good. Pre-heat the parts prior to painting with a small heat gun or propane torch, maybe 100-150 degrees.

The biggest problem I've seen with duracoat is lack of metal prep, with out, it comes off in sheets in the blast cabinet.
</div></div>

These guys are right, prep is the key. I did my <span style="text-decoration: underline">first</span> duracoating last week. I had never used a spray gun before. I purchased the Central Pneumatic Professional 20oz gravity feed spray gun (item #47016) for $14 from Harbor Freight, Duracoat (paint, hardner), Duracoat reducer, lacquer thinner. Made a spray booth out of a big cardboard box. The job was went perfectly.

Here are a few from a noob tips:

- do not wipe down weapon with a cloth that will produce lint
- brake cleaner works well as a cleaner
- don't spray in high humidity
- clean sprayer with lac thinner followed by a little duracoat reducer
- vacuum out or around any area that the spray might kick up dust
- use air (from compressor) to "flash off" solvent between coats. This shortens time between coats.
- use a non painted coat hanger to suspend weapon for painting.
- wear gloves when handling
- spray multiple med to thin coats.

If I did it, you can do it. Good luck and post up pre and post pics.

 

[rookie7]

Re: Getting set up for Duracoating

not trying to hi-jack b/c i want to duracoat my ar too, but is there a better diy finish?

thanks

 

[SoundFx]

Re: Getting set up for Duracoating

Careful with close-tolerance areas. I did a USGI M14 trigger group, and really REALLY regretted it. The group wouldn't even go back together. I had to soak it in lacquer thinner, and scrape off the duracoat. Took hours. Eventually got it pretty good. Sent to Lauer, had them blast and re-park. Won't do that again.... Duracoat works great on a lot of things, just be careful.