I have both a 20 and 29 and each I'm experiencing different problems with.
GLOCK 29SF: I have a KKM fully supported chamber, wolff steel guide rod, 22# wolff spring. I'm using factory 10 round mags with the factory base plate to get the best results. If I put the pierce +0 extension on the mags or shoot a glock 20 mag out of this 29 it jams about once every other mag. This gun jams a lot. Its not limp wristing and I know others are going to say leave the gun stock. I am shooting with this KKM barrel to shoot cast bullets, so I'm not bulging the brass, and it is also way more accurate. The problem I continue to run into is the slide strips the back of the next round just fine, but then for some reason causes the tip to steer up and left lodging into the back of the barrel in the upper left corner. It does this with all types of different bullets and more common in the hotter load levels. I love this pistol for how powerful it is and such a small package, but the damn thing jams most times I shoot it. It also seams to jam way worse with the pearce extension on it too.
GLOCK 20 gen4: This pistol is completely stock so far. I plan on getting a KKM match barrel for it eventually. As of now though, it is bulging brass badly. It has been completely reliable, but with factory s&b and underwood ammo it is bulging so bad it is about to fracture on some cases. As far as handholds go, I started very light with both the 180 nosler JHP and the 220 hard casts with long shot powder and new starling brass. Hodgdon manual says for 180 JHP starting load: 8.5 and max load: 9.5. I started at 8.4 knowing this thing pressures up quickly. Even with this below max load I had bad enough bulging that I didn't go any higher. Also with the 220 hard cast which I shoot 8.2 grains long shot in my KKM glock 29, was bulging/fracturing almost with 7.0 grains in the factory glock 20 barrel.
I have been through the whole "nuclear" load game with 10mm before and lost interest in it. I couldn't get anything to run reliable (I'm thinking due to slide speed) and also don't like having ammo around that could accidentally make its way into a standard glock barrel. So I was working up loads that would be light enough to run in the factory barrels and hopefully maybe get a little more reliablility out of my glock 29. I have gone very light in this testing and still bulging in the glock 20 barrel and still jamming my glock 29.
I know the answer to the glock 20 problem is to get a fully supported chambered barrel, I will do that at some point. But what can I do about getting my 29 to run reliably?
What are your spring/guiderod set ups for you guys shooting warmer lever loads and getting 100% reliability in your glock 20/29's?
Thanks
GLOCK 29SF: I have a KKM fully supported chamber, wolff steel guide rod, 22# wolff spring. I'm using factory 10 round mags with the factory base plate to get the best results. If I put the pierce +0 extension on the mags or shoot a glock 20 mag out of this 29 it jams about once every other mag. This gun jams a lot. Its not limp wristing and I know others are going to say leave the gun stock. I am shooting with this KKM barrel to shoot cast bullets, so I'm not bulging the brass, and it is also way more accurate. The problem I continue to run into is the slide strips the back of the next round just fine, but then for some reason causes the tip to steer up and left lodging into the back of the barrel in the upper left corner. It does this with all types of different bullets and more common in the hotter load levels. I love this pistol for how powerful it is and such a small package, but the damn thing jams most times I shoot it. It also seams to jam way worse with the pearce extension on it too.
GLOCK 20 gen4: This pistol is completely stock so far. I plan on getting a KKM match barrel for it eventually. As of now though, it is bulging brass badly. It has been completely reliable, but with factory s&b and underwood ammo it is bulging so bad it is about to fracture on some cases. As far as handholds go, I started very light with both the 180 nosler JHP and the 220 hard casts with long shot powder and new starling brass. Hodgdon manual says for 180 JHP starting load: 8.5 and max load: 9.5. I started at 8.4 knowing this thing pressures up quickly. Even with this below max load I had bad enough bulging that I didn't go any higher. Also with the 220 hard cast which I shoot 8.2 grains long shot in my KKM glock 29, was bulging/fracturing almost with 7.0 grains in the factory glock 20 barrel.
I have been through the whole "nuclear" load game with 10mm before and lost interest in it. I couldn't get anything to run reliable (I'm thinking due to slide speed) and also don't like having ammo around that could accidentally make its way into a standard glock barrel. So I was working up loads that would be light enough to run in the factory barrels and hopefully maybe get a little more reliablility out of my glock 29. I have gone very light in this testing and still bulging in the glock 20 barrel and still jamming my glock 29.
I know the answer to the glock 20 problem is to get a fully supported chambered barrel, I will do that at some point. But what can I do about getting my 29 to run reliably?
What are your spring/guiderod set ups for you guys shooting warmer lever loads and getting 100% reliability in your glock 20/29's?
Thanks