The one I've been using for about a year now is a very cheap dial caliper (harbor frieght cheap). It is my first one. It has worked well, but starting to not return consistently to zero. I tried a buddy's digital one and I got all jacked up with the 5 decimal places of accuracy. Figure a good solid dial caliper will suit me fine for years, and that y'all would have some thoghts. Thank you.
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good caliper recomendation
- Thread starter Surffshr
- Start date
Re: good caliper recomendation
I picked up a good set of Starrett dial calipers. They have served me well
I picked up a good set of Starrett dial calipers. They have served me well
Re: good caliper recomendation
Take a look at this one:
General tools
I picked it up at Ace Hardware for $49. Its a bit more than some of the bargin calipers -but it works really well and it has inches, fraction inches and mm, so you can use it for other jobs as well.
Take a look at this one:
General tools
I picked it up at Ace Hardware for $49. Its a bit more than some of the bargin calipers -but it works really well and it has inches, fraction inches and mm, so you can use it for other jobs as well.
Re: good caliper recomendation
I have to agree with AlabamaShooter on the Starrett Dial Calipers. Well made, accurate, and will last a lifetime when used for reloading purposes.
I would stay away from the digital variety for several reasons.
1. If you need to read in ten thousands of an inch (0.0000) then you should be using a good micrometer with vernier instead of dial calipers. For most reloading applications a 0 to 1in. micrometer is all you will need.
2. Good digital calipers are more expensive and for the same cost you could get the dial calipers and a 0 to 1in. micrometer.
3. Batteries fail at the worst times.
I have seen some good deals on eBay for the Starrett equipment. The 1230 series mics are my favorite as they are stainless steel. Look for carbide faces.
I have to agree with AlabamaShooter on the Starrett Dial Calipers. Well made, accurate, and will last a lifetime when used for reloading purposes.
I would stay away from the digital variety for several reasons.
1. If you need to read in ten thousands of an inch (0.0000) then you should be using a good micrometer with vernier instead of dial calipers. For most reloading applications a 0 to 1in. micrometer is all you will need.
2. Good digital calipers are more expensive and for the same cost you could get the dial calipers and a 0 to 1in. micrometer.
3. Batteries fail at the worst times.
I have seen some good deals on eBay for the Starrett equipment. The 1230 series mics are my favorite as they are stainless steel. Look for carbide faces.
Re: good caliper recomendation
You can get some used Mitutoyo calipers from ebay
search for "mitutoyo digital caliper absolute"
They are nice
You can get some used Mitutoyo calipers from ebay
search for "mitutoyo digital caliper absolute"
They are nice
Re: good caliper recomendation
Starrett, Mitutoyo and Browne&Sharp are all very fine tools and cost accordingly. You should decide if you will derive value from such a purchase.
When I have a caliper that won't re-zero, I wipe the jaws.
I would question whether any hand-held tool is capable of five-place accuracy, regardless of the read-out. Three is typical for any caliper. A good micrometer can read four places; most are only good for a fraction of the fourth place rather a tenth.
Starrett, Mitutoyo and Browne&Sharp are all very fine tools and cost accordingly. You should decide if you will derive value from such a purchase.
When I have a caliper that won't re-zero, I wipe the jaws.
I would question whether any hand-held tool is capable of five-place accuracy, regardless of the read-out. Three is typical for any caliper. A good micrometer can read four places; most are only good for a fraction of the fourth place rather a tenth.
Re: good caliper recomendation
On the mechanical end I have Starrett and Mitutoyo in 6" dials. I have electronic ones by Federal and Browne & Sharp.
Learn how to use any that you get properly.
On the mechanical end I have Starrett and Mitutoyo in 6" dials. I have electronic ones by Federal and Browne & Sharp.
Learn how to use any that you get properly.
Re: good caliper recomendation
As mentioned , you can't go wrong with any of the big 3. Keeping them clean will go a long way in preserving accuracy and longevity.
As mentioned , you can't go wrong with any of the big 3. Keeping them clean will go a long way in preserving accuracy and longevity.
Re: good caliper recomendation
Just because they read to .0001 dosen't mean they are accurate to that level. You can trust a "good" set to within .002 irregardless of the make. Look at Starret, Mititoyo, or B&S, figure on spending $100+.
4inch are too small to use easily.
6in are a good all round set.
8in are really good if you are using Hornady L&L gages as they take up 1-2 inches, the extra length gives you a better handle, especially with magnum cartidges and long boolits.
Just because they read to .0001 dosen't mean they are accurate to that level. You can trust a "good" set to within .002 irregardless of the make. Look at Starret, Mititoyo, or B&S, figure on spending $100+.
4inch are too small to use easily.
6in are a good all round set.
8in are really good if you are using Hornady L&L gages as they take up 1-2 inches, the extra length gives you a better handle, especially with magnum cartidges and long boolits.
Re: good caliper recomendation
I forgot something earlier.
The first set of 0-6 dial calipers I got had a .200" face per revolution of the needle. Every set I have bought since then have been the .100 sweep face.
If you want to practice enough to get good... find some old dowel pins or ground bolts / studs. Mark off specific spots to measure then practice and then compare against a 0-1" micrometer. Or have a friend measure some stuff for you. But practice getting the right tension on the calipers. Practice putting the part toward the rear of the jaws. Always... every time you pick them up... wipe the jaws then run them up together and make sure they zero out. If it's just a small amount it's out, and it reads the same amount every time you can do a quick fix by resetting the dial out of the 12 o-clock position in which it came from the factory.
If it is out a large amount you can probably gotten either dirt or chips in the gear rack that runs the length of the caliper on the top side. Canned air is good to clean the rack with. Blow out the rear half of the rack. Then move the jaws apart and clean out the front half.
If you have check everything and it still reads off... there should be a little "KEY" shaped devise of either shim stock or a curled wire with a flat side. That is used to "skip" the gear on the back that runs in the rack. With practice you can get it set back right. But I caution that for any beginner it can be a long time consuming and painstaking experience. Not to mention aggrivating as the dickens.
If you take care of them, keep them clean, ALWAYS put them back in the case. Never lay them on a bare table. One drop to a concrete floor and most will turn into an expensive paper weight. But I still have the first set I bought with the .200" face... in 1970. But a friend dropped a new set less than 2 months after he bought them. Nice converstaion piece.
I forgot something earlier.
The first set of 0-6 dial calipers I got had a .200" face per revolution of the needle. Every set I have bought since then have been the .100 sweep face.
If you want to practice enough to get good... find some old dowel pins or ground bolts / studs. Mark off specific spots to measure then practice and then compare against a 0-1" micrometer. Or have a friend measure some stuff for you. But practice getting the right tension on the calipers. Practice putting the part toward the rear of the jaws. Always... every time you pick them up... wipe the jaws then run them up together and make sure they zero out. If it's just a small amount it's out, and it reads the same amount every time you can do a quick fix by resetting the dial out of the 12 o-clock position in which it came from the factory.
If it is out a large amount you can probably gotten either dirt or chips in the gear rack that runs the length of the caliper on the top side. Canned air is good to clean the rack with. Blow out the rear half of the rack. Then move the jaws apart and clean out the front half.
If you have check everything and it still reads off... there should be a little "KEY" shaped devise of either shim stock or a curled wire with a flat side. That is used to "skip" the gear on the back that runs in the rack. With practice you can get it set back right. But I caution that for any beginner it can be a long time consuming and painstaking experience. Not to mention aggrivating as the dickens.
If you take care of them, keep them clean, ALWAYS put them back in the case. Never lay them on a bare table. One drop to a concrete floor and most will turn into an expensive paper weight. But I still have the first set I bought with the .200" face... in 1970. But a friend dropped a new set less than 2 months after he bought them. Nice converstaion piece.
