Wanted to share some excitement, as well as some photos with you all. I personally was searching and asking for pictures of similar setups to mine so I can see certain details, and while the ones I saw and received were helpful, they weren't what I was exactly looking for, so I hope my pics will help with someone's USO buying decision in the future. Also, if you would like to see specific photos, please let me know and I will try to help out. So here they are:
SN3-TPAL 3.2-17x
Mil-GAP
35mm tube
44mm objective
Low profile eye piece
11mil per rev. EREK with Milestone
US# 1 M40 mil Windage on left
Side Parallax Knob
11 position Rheostat Red Illumination
Zero-reference line laser etched on top of tube
No "US Optics" logo on the objective bell
Scope from top - 35mm tube just "looks" better than standard 30mm.
Scope from side - I was a bit worried that the difference between the 35mm to 44mm is so minimal that I may have an almost straight tube for a scope, but as you can see it is just fine.
I know, I'm shallow and it is a tool and should be treated as such, but hey, who said tools should look ugly?
A little reference on size... This scope is pretty stout.
A shot of the center portion where all the knobs are located. As you can see the spacing between the side parallax and US#1 M40 windage is pretty small. While it does not impede the function of either knob, I will show some pics on some concerns with this. I asked USO to try to install a US#1 knob on there to see if a cap can be put on, but no dice, the cap hits the parallax and won't allow it to go on.
View from the back of scope - here you can see the reference line leading to the zero. Got this idea after reading posts from other USO 35mm tube owners about the rings covering the sight to the zero on the EREK knob. Sobrbiker also has a post describing another way to make a reference point which is great. Either way will work. You can also see the 11 on top of the 0 on the EREK, noting that this is an 11mil per revolution EREK, an option I waited a bit longer for...
11 position rheostat red illumination - I chose this over the new digital push-button rheostat because, well, I didn't want to wait longer for the digital, and I have used this one before and liked it. Also, you can put a cap on this one.
Post continues below to show what I was referring to with the spacing between the windage and parallax...
SN3-TPAL 3.2-17x
Mil-GAP
35mm tube
44mm objective
Low profile eye piece
11mil per rev. EREK with Milestone
US# 1 M40 mil Windage on left
Side Parallax Knob
11 position Rheostat Red Illumination
Zero-reference line laser etched on top of tube
No "US Optics" logo on the objective bell
Scope from top - 35mm tube just "looks" better than standard 30mm.
Scope from side - I was a bit worried that the difference between the 35mm to 44mm is so minimal that I may have an almost straight tube for a scope, but as you can see it is just fine.
A little reference on size... This scope is pretty stout.
A shot of the center portion where all the knobs are located. As you can see the spacing between the side parallax and US#1 M40 windage is pretty small. While it does not impede the function of either knob, I will show some pics on some concerns with this. I asked USO to try to install a US#1 knob on there to see if a cap can be put on, but no dice, the cap hits the parallax and won't allow it to go on.
View from the back of scope - here you can see the reference line leading to the zero. Got this idea after reading posts from other USO 35mm tube owners about the rings covering the sight to the zero on the EREK knob. Sobrbiker also has a post describing another way to make a reference point which is great. Either way will work. You can also see the 11 on top of the 0 on the EREK, noting that this is an 11mil per revolution EREK, an option I waited a bit longer for...
11 position rheostat red illumination - I chose this over the new digital push-button rheostat because, well, I didn't want to wait longer for the digital, and I have used this one before and liked it. Also, you can put a cap on this one.
Post continues below to show what I was referring to with the spacing between the windage and parallax...
