I have zero affiliation with Griffin Armament, but I do own several of their products. I also own products from Thunder Beast, SilencerCo, Dead Air, Rugged and a couple of others that are lesser known. I prefer the taper mount adapters as a way of fixing a can to the end of a barrel to any other that I have used or examined. I prefer it enough that I have switched everything that I could over to use Plan "A" mounts, so that I don't have to worry about what mounting system is on each of my barrels/rifles. I use the Griffin taper mount on almost all of my barrels.
I think that the KeyMo is a pretty nifty mounting system and I like the company. I also think it's expensive and heavy for a lot of applications, especially when compared to other options. The second sentence there is not my opinion, those are objective facts. The Area 419 system is another system that is pretty good and I don't have any issues with. My point being that there are several choices are out there that could work for your application. What matters is your priorities.
As far as the taper mount design being an issue, in short, it isn't. The first reason that it isn't an issue is because of the taper design (not unique to silencer mount applications) being a semi-locking taper in the neighborhood of 15˚ will tighten up and then require a roughly calculated force 50% greater than that used to mate the two surfaces. In other words, it isn't going to come loose on it's own. I have never in thousands of rounds, had a taper mount come loose on it's own. I have always had to purposefully loosen and remove the device. It also serves to do an amazing job aligning the silencer with the mount which is hopefully coaxially mounted to the bore of the rifle. I have found the POI shift to be almost nothing when removing and reattaching cans using the taper mount system.
The other issue that people seem to get wrapped around the axle over is the threads being ahead of the taper, with the concern being that the threads will become carbon encrusted and not want to release the device. I cannot say definitively that after thousands of rounds without removing the can that it couldn't become carbon locked. I will say that after approximately a thousand rounds of 5.56 over the course of slightly more than a year, that it hasn't. I unfortunately didn't take a picture of the brake after removing the can from that rifle, but it still looked good and the threads were pretty close to the one I will put below. The reason that the threads don't get fouled is due to the carbon and gas not having an aperture at the rear of the mount to pass through. Additionally, I think people conflate rimfire cans having issues getting carbon locked with threads that stick out past the can insert. This doesn't apply to the taper mount because they are properly sized such that they don't have three or more threads protruding past the insert like a lot of rimfire applications.
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This taper mount was clean when I put the can on and has 240 rounds of 6BR through it. I think it looks pretty good. I also use a light coat of High Temp anti-seize (not copper or nickel based) on the threads and taper prior to mounting the can for the first time and as needed after that. I wipe the threads down about every time I clean the bore of the rifle which is usually in the 300 round range. It's not an arduous task. Anyway, if you have any questions from someone that's used a bunch of systems and settled on this one for most uses, don't hesitate to ask.
