Gun Cleaning

[BoltGunner054]

I’m curious to know the following and why. I’ve always used multi piece brass cleaning rods, they’re tough to find anymore. I entered the gun cleaning rabbit hole.

Carbon fiber vs. coated steel cleaning rod?

Brass brushes vs. nylon brushes?

What does everyone use and why? What’s the benefits to either?

 

[Changed]

One piece coated rods. (Less risk of Damage)

Bore guide. (Protects chamber/ Throat)

Nylon brushes or Bronze doesn’t matter

ThorroClean or Boretech Carbon and Copper

 

[Nik H]

1. I use mostly steel rods, but I do have some bore-tech rods that I believe are carbon fiber. My favorite rods are the Stiller Holeshot melonite rods made from spring steel. My IVY rod is as good but no longer made. They are both pricey but are the best I have used in terms of flex.
2. I use a Pro-Shot sectional steel rod in the field as it is easy and well-made.
3. I use Lucas bore guides with an insert whose diameter is matched to the rod diameter. This is the most important factor, IMHO.
4. Bronze brushes and both types of jags. Don't pull the brush back through the bore. Only from breech to muzzle.
5. I use KG products for cleaning fluids and oils. I don't use anything marked CLP. I use oil to lube and solvents for carbon.

 

[BoltGunner054]

That takes me to another point. Barrel I ordered they said to use a bore guide, what the hell is that? Never heard of it. So upon research I understand. I’ll never use it for any of my guns with a factory barrel so was looking at a bore guide from creedmoor sports that’s firearm specific. Any issues with that?

 

[Nik H]

That takes me to another point. Barrel I ordered they said to use a bore guide, what the hell is that? Never heard of it. So upon research I understand. I’ll never use it for any of my guns with a factory barrel so was looking at a bore guide from creedmoor sports that’s firearm specific. Any issues with that?

ALWAYS use a bore guide. I have 7 guides from Lucas for each rifle I own.

Lucas makes his guides specific to the bolt diameter of the action and an insert with a diameter matched to the rod for a perfect fit. I am not familiar with the Creedmoor sports guide, but they usually sell good stuff.

 

[JasonStanley]

This may be something to consider. One piece coated - use a bore guide that fits your action/chamber. Undersized nylon brushes with patches wrapped around them for dispensing solvent and patching out. Bronze brush for the majority of the cleaning.
Getting the Carbon Ring out - that's a whole different process.
This video may help if you are interested. It was made 3 yrs ago so the quality has improved.

Hope this gives you a direction to start
Stanley

 

[spife7980]

That takes me to another point. Barrel I ordered they said to use a bore guide, what the hell is that? Never heard of it. So upon research I understand. I’ll never use it for any of my guns with a factory barrel so was looking at a bore guide from creedmoor sports that’s firearm specific. Any issues with that?

It’s an insert that goes into the action that keeps the fluids out of the action as well as centers the brush/jag/rod in the middle of the barrels bore so you don’t catch a corner and scrape a land etc when you start it down the barrel.

 

[CK1.0]

Carbon fiber rod, nylon and brass brushes, bore guide optional.

I've evolved over the years on rifle cleaning... when I started out, all sorts of fudds said "don't use this, don't use that"... without ever being able to give concrete reasons why or why not.

These days, IMHO a borescope is a must, if you can't see what you're doing, then you're guessing and don't know what you're really doing, so you have no way of knowing if you're actually getting it clean or where the line is between clean enough and doing damage (if/when using more aggressive stuff).

Barrels are made of steel, so if you monitor your work (using a bore scope), there's almost nothing you can screw onto the end of a rod that with fuck up your barrel unless you're actually trying to fuck it up or being a total moron.

I sacrifice a new/fresh brass brush and use abrasives every time I clean now... but since I can check my work periodically and see what I'm doing, my barrels come out better and I can do it without hurting anything. Abrasives (Iosso, JB bore paste, Thorro Clean, etc) are the only things one really needs to be careful with, but as long as you don't overdo it you'll be fine.

For me, along with the bore scope, a chamber rod is a must-have, as it usually takes more work and time to get rid of carbon rings that start to form than it does for the rest of the barrel. A bore guide helps keep muck out of your trigger when you want to go fast and is nice to have, but for me, they're not a must-have.

 

[chevy_man]

I'm lucky enough to have a heated shop, so time isn't a factor for me. They can sit out on the bench for weeks or even months if I feel like it.

Bore-tech c4 and eliminator are pretty much the only solvents I've been using for years now. No worries on etching the steel.

I use only 1 piece rods. Coated or carbon hasn't seemed to matter so long as it's kept clean. (Wipe it on the way out so grit doesn't get drug in and out).
Rarely use a brush. If I do it's brass because nylon is too soft to do anything useful. I prefer to let the chemicals do the work though.

99% of the time I run a patch down coated in solvent. Let sit for 20-30 minutes. Run a fresh coated patch, sit, etc. I'll do this as I'm in and out of the shop over days or even a week. Patches come out clean within a dozen or so. Lots of time for the solvent to work.



I generally do this as I'm tinkering with other projects or just cleaning up the shop. So again, I put very little time into it but if you're trying to get it done on the kitchen table before your wife gets back from book club it's not going to work for you.