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Gunskins?
- Thread starter Luvman
- Start date
I have applied them on two rifles and scopes. I decided to try them out on a couple of inexpensive rifles before anything more valuable.
The biggest advantage in the gunskins can also make them a PITA when applying them. Once they are on, they are very durable and tough to get off, unless you heat them up as shown in the videos.
Like I said they are tough. So it's not as easy to trim them with an Exacto knife as we see in the videos. And, yes, I am using a sharp knife. I put in a fresh blade.
I cannot get the skins on as smoothly as we see demonstrated in the videos. The inevitable wrinkle will appear here and there but I can live with that as the ultimate goal is to get the rifle camouflaged.
The part of the rifle, that I thought would be the easiest was harder than I thought. That was the barrel. It's a little more difficult to get the vinyl on smoothly and without wrinkles than you would expect. That's the only part of the rifle that I worry about with moisture getting underneath the vinyl even though it sticks to the surface like glue.
The barrel on the MVP is still free-floated even with it wrapped around the bottom. I had to remove the vinyl from the bottom of the barrel between it and the stock on the Savage B-22 as it didn't stay free-floated.
I didn't put the gunskins on the receiver as they show in the videos. I don't think I need that level of camouflaging.
The scopes that I put the skins on are the Vortex 4-12 Cross-fire II with adjustable objective. Now that's a royal PITA. Remember the wrinkles that I referred to earlier? Well, you're going to get them when you apply the gunskins to the scope. I didn't bother to cover the scope rings.
The best advice that I can give you is to set aside the entire day to apply the gunskins. It's a job that you don't want to rush. I also took the stock and scope off the rifle to apply the gunskins. I don't think I could do a better job otherwise. Remember to watch the videos several times before applying the gunskins.
With the fact that they are a PITA to install, then the question is why would anyone want to use them over paint or another camo wrap?
If you hate painting, like me, then wrapping the weapon, is a no-brainer. I hate painting. Even if I didn't mind the paint, the weather here is cold an raining and I don't like spray painting inside my garage.
I've used all sort of stuff to camouflage a rifle. The self-sticking camo-wrap is good and the big advantage is that it's easily removed. I've also used the camouflaged duct tape. The problem with the wrap is that it adds a little bulk to the outside of the stock. I have also noticed that the contrast in the colors with the camo-wrap is flat. The environment that I hunt in, requires various shades of light and dark. I don't see that the camo-wrap.
The camouflaged duct tape is a lot cheaper than the gun-skins. I only use that on parts of the rifle that I cannot get the camo-wrap on, such as the sides of the rifle around the magazine well and the trigger. After a while the tape can begin to peel off the surface but because it's so inexpensive, I don't worry about replacing it.
The attached photo is of the Mossberg MVP after I got the gunskins on it. From a distance it looks nice but once you get close, you can see the imperfections in the application. However, I think it will do for close range coyotes.
The biggest advantage in the gunskins can also make them a PITA when applying them. Once they are on, they are very durable and tough to get off, unless you heat them up as shown in the videos.
Like I said they are tough. So it's not as easy to trim them with an Exacto knife as we see in the videos. And, yes, I am using a sharp knife. I put in a fresh blade.
I cannot get the skins on as smoothly as we see demonstrated in the videos. The inevitable wrinkle will appear here and there but I can live with that as the ultimate goal is to get the rifle camouflaged.
The part of the rifle, that I thought would be the easiest was harder than I thought. That was the barrel. It's a little more difficult to get the vinyl on smoothly and without wrinkles than you would expect. That's the only part of the rifle that I worry about with moisture getting underneath the vinyl even though it sticks to the surface like glue.
The barrel on the MVP is still free-floated even with it wrapped around the bottom. I had to remove the vinyl from the bottom of the barrel between it and the stock on the Savage B-22 as it didn't stay free-floated.
I didn't put the gunskins on the receiver as they show in the videos. I don't think I need that level of camouflaging.
The scopes that I put the skins on are the Vortex 4-12 Cross-fire II with adjustable objective. Now that's a royal PITA. Remember the wrinkles that I referred to earlier? Well, you're going to get them when you apply the gunskins to the scope. I didn't bother to cover the scope rings.
The best advice that I can give you is to set aside the entire day to apply the gunskins. It's a job that you don't want to rush. I also took the stock and scope off the rifle to apply the gunskins. I don't think I could do a better job otherwise. Remember to watch the videos several times before applying the gunskins.
With the fact that they are a PITA to install, then the question is why would anyone want to use them over paint or another camo wrap?
If you hate painting, like me, then wrapping the weapon, is a no-brainer. I hate painting. Even if I didn't mind the paint, the weather here is cold an raining and I don't like spray painting inside my garage.
I've used all sort of stuff to camouflage a rifle. The self-sticking camo-wrap is good and the big advantage is that it's easily removed. I've also used the camouflaged duct tape. The problem with the wrap is that it adds a little bulk to the outside of the stock. I have also noticed that the contrast in the colors with the camo-wrap is flat. The environment that I hunt in, requires various shades of light and dark. I don't see that the camo-wrap.
The camouflaged duct tape is a lot cheaper than the gun-skins. I only use that on parts of the rifle that I cannot get the camo-wrap on, such as the sides of the rifle around the magazine well and the trigger. After a while the tape can begin to peel off the surface but because it's so inexpensive, I don't worry about replacing it.
The attached photo is of the Mossberg MVP after I got the gunskins on it. From a distance it looks nice but once you get close, you can see the imperfections in the application. However, I think it will do for close range coyotes.
PS: The backing paper says that it is 3M controltac graphic marking system. I did a google search of this and came up with all sorts of links for cheaper alternatives than the Gunskins. The only thing is the Gunskins are pre-cut. If you wrap Christmas presents like I do then the pre-cut wrap is an advantage.
Some of the links that I looked at don't specify the type of finish. If it's a glossy finish then it doesn't matter what type of camo you have on it the darn thing is going to shine.
Anyway, I found this and it might be a cheaper option. The video doesn't say anything about using heat. The other thing that I worry about with this material is that the video says the material is cross hatched and allows air to escape to prevent bubbles. So if it allows air to escape does it let water in?
http://www.mossyoakgraphics.com/mossy-oak-matte-camo-roll
Some of the links that I looked at don't specify the type of finish. If it's a glossy finish then it doesn't matter what type of camo you have on it the darn thing is going to shine.
Anyway, I found this and it might be a cheaper option. The video doesn't say anything about using heat. The other thing that I worry about with this material is that the video says the material is cross hatched and allows air to escape to prevent bubbles. So if it allows air to escape does it let water in?
http://www.mossyoakgraphics.com/mossy-oak-matte-camo-roll
They work great! Very happy with them. They’re not nearly as difficult to install as the previous commenter made it sound. They do take some time and patience and with practice you can get very good results. The forend was the hardest part and I found doing it in separate pieces (2) worked best to get a wrinkle free application. They seem way more durable than hydrodipped products and much better than cerakote C on stocks. It’s not perfect and you have to have reasonable expectations.
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