Gunsmithing Hard bolt close on new R700

[Jmccracken1214]

Picked up a Remington 700 sps tactical 308 and when chambering a round, it has a very hard bolt close. Almost have to hit the bolt to close it. At first I thought headspace issue but once you get it to close, it opens and closes very smoothly with the round in the chamber.

Removed the ejector, cleaned it and it does depress just below the bolt face… so that leaves the extractor..

Is there anything I can do to this one or do I need to order another

 

[Aftermath]

Measure your chamber. Compare that to your cartridge base to ogive. My guess is you are using the bolt to seat the bullet deeper in the case.

 

[R_A_W]

Almost have to hit the bolt to close it. At first I thought headspace issue but once you get it to close, it opens and closes very smoothly with the round in the chamber.

Yeah that sounds like headspace... is it possible you're resizing the brass in the chamber? Measure the shoulder on a new piece of brass that is difficult to close before & after you load/extract

Easy first step to check the extractor is remove the bolt & snap fired brass into the bolt face

 

[River44]

My last Remington 700 had the same issues. Chamber was out of round. Which was fortunate because the gun smith then found that the barrel had a slight bend in it. To top it all off, Remington wouldn't warranty it. Last pos Remington I've ever bought

 

[Jmccracken1214]

I measured the shoulder and length of a new round, tried to chamber, same hard close. Smack the bolt shut, then pull the the round and re measure. The measurments are exactly the same.

I can pull the bolt and place the round into the bolt face pretty easy, which is weird.

After pull the round from the chamber, I do have pretty bad marks on the rim of the brass where the extractor is grabbing it.

EDIT:
Took the extractor out, chambered a round and its still hard to close. what the ****

 

[hafejd30]

Does it close good without a round in the chamber?

Sharpie the entire round. Bullet tip to base. Let it dry. Chamber it. Then post pics here where contact is made

 

[Coejro]

If you have a different trigger try swapping it in. I found bolt lift/close on a 700 I had was very sensitive to the trigger. Never took the time to understand why, but putting a different trigger in completely eliminated the problem.

 

[Jmccracken1214]

Does it close good without a round in the chamber?

Sharpie the entire round. Bullet tip to base. Let it dry. Chamber it. Then post pics here where contact is made

Yes, closes fine, and once you force it close with a round in the chamber, you can easily raise and lower the bolt back to close position without issue.

I sharpied a round and chambered it, basically 0 marks in the sharpie coloring on the round.

 

[hafejd30]

Yes, closes fine, and once you force it close with a round in the chamber, you can easily raise and lower the bolt back to close position without issue.

I sharpied a round and chambered it, basically 0 marks in the sharpie coloring on the round.

I was just asking as sometimes you’ll see the second from the front scope base screw a little to long which causes issues with bolt close

My local shop got some R700’s in that the headspace was so far off you couldn’t chamber a round in the rifle. In fact the bolt wouldn’t even close on an empty chamber. It was rubbing the back of the barrel.

Another shop they said ordered 10 SPS models and 2 didn’t even have rifling in the barrels

This was before the new buyout when they were vista or whatever. If the gun is from that era yet it could be anything

 

[Jmccracken1214]

I was just asking as sometimes you’ll see the second from the front scope base screw a little to long which causes issues with bolt close

My local shop got some R700’s in that the headspace was so far off you couldn’t chamber a round in the rifle. In fact the bolt wouldn’t even close on an empty chamber. It was rubbing the back of the barrel.

Another shop they said ordered 10 SPS models and 2 didn’t even have rifling in the barrels

This was before the new buyout when they were vista or whatever. If the gun is from that era yet it could be anything

its a new production rifle.

The bolt does squeek as its closing, empty chamber or loaded... does it.. Wonder if my barrel is screwed back just a hair too far?

Im going to run it by a shop tomorrow sometime and let them check it with gauges.

 

[hafejd30]

its a new production rifle.

The bolt does squeek as its closing, empty chamber or loaded... does it.. Wonder if my barrel is screwed back just a hair too far?

Im going to run it by a shop tomorrow sometime and let them check it with gauges.

Check that scope base screw. Probably can stick your finger in the action and feel for it. It will make that sound if the bolt is scrapping against it. Or just back it out slightly and try it. It will be the second screw back from the muzzle end

May even notice it on the lugs of the bolt. Otherwise could be shavings stuck in the area where the bolt lugs cam over

 

[Hickswr]

And this is why friends don’t let friends buy new Remingtons.

 

[BAMAboy18]

I was just asking as sometimes you’ll see the second from the front scope base screw a little to long which causes issues with bolt close

My local shop got some R700’s in that the headspace was so far off you couldn’t chamber a round in the rifle. In fact the bolt wouldn’t even close on an empty chamber. It was rubbing the back of the barrel.

Another shop they said ordered 10 SPS models and 2 didn’t even have rifling in the barrels

This was before the new buyout when they were vista or whatever. If the gun is from that era yet it could be anything

A coworker brought me his rifle that the bolt wouldn't close, don't even remember what make of rifle, but 1st thing I checked was the scope rail screws, he had long ones out front and short ones in back. Seems too simple. I've never owned a Remington so I know nothing about their particulars.

 

[Jmccracken1214]

I didnt have a scope rail on the action at the time of this issue.
My leupold 20moa rail came with 4 screws all the same length though.

I was pondering this and decided to just clean the shit out of the barrel, thinking maybe there was something in the chamber... But wouldnt I notice marks on the brass from debris?

Anyways, clean the hell out of it, and it closes fine now with ammo.... weird.

Downside, I dont have an extractor anymore lol, but my local place has one that Im picking up tomorrow.

 

[Easy_E]

its a new production rifle.

The bolt does squeek as its closing, empty chamber or loaded... does it.. Wonder if my barrel is screwed back just a hair too far?

Im going to run it by a shop tomorrow sometime and let them check it with gauges.

Take the firing pin out of the bolt and see if the bolt has movement forward and back while closed . It will be tight if the barrel shank is too far in the action or the distance between the lugs and bolt handle is off.

 

[Jmccracken1214]

Take the firing pin out of the bolt and see if the bolt has movement forward and back while closed . It will be tight if the barrel shank is too far in the action or the distance between the lugs and bolt handle is off.

took the firing pin out and installed the bolt, with the handle down, it moves forward and backwards, but very little.

 

[Easy_E]

took the firing pin out and installed the bolt, with the handle down, it moves forward and backwards, but very little.

So you have clearance between the bolt and barrel shank .

 

[Zuul]

Same issue in a SPS Tac chambered in .223 (10 plus years ago), machining debris in the bolt lug pockets. Gave it a deep clean and it was good to go, did leave some scarring on top of the lugs though. Still have it, sucks ass with factory ammo but will stack handloads, I’d expect nothing less from Remingtons from that era, lol!!!

 

[Jmccracken1214]

I took the action off and inside, there’s a bug/smudge it looks like and then where the lugs would go, as you close the bolt, one side is smooth, and the other has a step up. I believe this is what my lug is catching on, making it hard to close the bolt

 

[spife7980]

Can you not see any associated scraping in the side of the bolt lug? Or run the bolt in there and see it first hand?

 

[Jmccracken1214]

 

[Jmccracken1214]

LRI will have tomorrow and is blueprinting it for me

 

[Easy_E]

It will be done right and fast turn around !

 

[Wannashootit]

Spitballing here because I'm not looking at it on the bench...

Does Remington still use broaching for the lug raceways in the receiver and not EDM?
Looks to me like the broaching is too deep- and the lug has to work it's way over that hump I'm seeing to seat on the abutment.
I can see (I think...) the lump of displaced material from the broach there.
What's the opposite side look like? If that side is proud and not recessed, the broaching wasn't centered.
It fits with your symptoms. The bolt/bolthead is not centered in the receiver- so when you chamber a round, the boltface isn't lining up on the case properly and you're forcing it into alignment so the extractor grabs the case.

If the receiver's fucked up because of bad broaching, blueprinting ain't gonna fix it. Did you email these pictures to Chad first?

 

[Jmccracken1214]

Got it back from LRI today. It would have been here about a week sooner but it got "lost" for a week on its way there.

Chambers a round fine. Happy with the work and my now Remington 700 that I have WAY more money in than its worth.