Night Vision Harris F5032 vs. DTNVG

Y

Yig

Private
Minuteman
May 9, 2020
14
6
#1
I'm looking to take the plunge into NV and could use some advice. I'm looking at either the F5032 or the DTNVG. In either case, I want to go with L3 filmless WP. The F5032 has some nice features like adjustable diopters and near focus. I'm a buy once cry once guy but I'm wondering if the difference in price is worth it.

I could also use some recommendations for good vendors. I've been looking at TNVC and US Night Vision.
 
#2
Yig said:
I'm looking to take the plunge into NV and could use some advice. I'm looking at either the F5032 or the DTNVG. In either case, I want to go with L3 filmless WP. The F5032 has some nice features like adjustable diopters and near focus. I'm a buy once cry once guy but I'm wondering if the difference in price is worth it.

I could also use some recommendations for good vendors. I've been looking at TNVC and US Night Vision.
Click to expand...

Can you get F5032’s with L3 filmless WP? I thought they only came with Elbit thin filmed tubes.
 
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#4
To the best of my knowledge the Harris F5032 is a factory build unit from Elbit (Harris). IE only Elbit thin filmed WP tubes. If you want new articulating goggles with L3 filmless your only option would be a DTNVG or BNVD. This can be had for less and you can either buy a hoplite phokus lens cap, or drill a hole in a butler creek cap. That would give you the "near focus". As far as the adjustable diopter the PVS14 style that comes with DTNVG will give you an adjustable range from -2 to 6. You can request hand select tubes from TNVC at no additional charge. This would be an added bonus vs going with the F5032. With a factory built unit you will get what you get. Im not even sure if the F5032 even comes with data sheets.

Are you set on Articulation? The fixed bridge RNVG is an excellent goggle and comes in a little bit cheaper than articulating housings. The addition savings could allow you to purchase a nice helmet setup and IR laser.

If you want to go with the BNVD i would look into JRH enterprises. I dont have any experience with them but them seem solid. I have heard that he is very good about answering the phone and giving information. Keep in mind TNVC builds everything in house and offer a lifetime warranty on housing and 10 year on tubes. JRH has Night Vision Devices build theirs and they offer 10 year warranty on housing and tubes. You will wait longer for TNVC than JRH.

Here is a list of companies that i know to have a good reputation. I atleast know one person that has bought a unit from each of these and they have had a solid experience.
TNVC
JRH
HEAT inc.
Night Vision Inc

I would avoid Steele Industries....

F5032 with Elbit thin, or DTNVG/ BNVD with the Filmless technology will all be solid options. I think for the price though i would lean towards the BNVD or the DTNVG. My vote goes to the DTNVG from TNVC.
 
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#5
If it were me I’d go with the DTNVG with L3 filmless white phosphor. I’m sure the Elbit’s are nice but I have filmless WP and you couldn’t pay me to switch them for thin filmed WP. And you can’t go wrong with TNVC. 10 years on tube and lifetime on the assembly.
 
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#6
Thanks for your help guys!
@sheepdog697 I'm pretty sold on articulating for moving in and out of vehicles and such. After they info that you and @Will-1 provided I'm leaning towards the DTNVG. The difference in price would help pay for a nice IR laser.
 
#7
Any suggestions for literature, sites, videos, etc. where I can learn more about the technical side of all of this. Talking with you guys has shown me that I have a lot to learn.

Edit: Also wanted to say thanks for the feedback and help.
 
#8
No problem Yig. Watch the videos from silentsolutions on youtube. They are done by Sam Houston from TNVC where he dives into some of the more technical issues pertaining to tube specs. That should help you narrow down what you want. I like some of the Kinetic Consulting videos where he goes over articulation vs fixed. TNVC also has a variety of videos up going over things such as helmet setups, and IR lasers.

Let us know who you end up going with!
 
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#9
+1 on surgeonshooter, solid guy. One thing to keep in mind is the dtnvs will be coming out at some point this year. It's an updated version of the dtnvg that's a bit lighter. Something to consider, do you want the dtnvg now or wait for the update version...
 
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#10
Yig said:
Any suggestions for literature, sites, videos, etc. where I can learn more about the technical side of all of this. Talking with you guys has shown me that I have a lot to learn.

Edit: Also wanted to say thanks for the feedback and help.
Click to expand...

Please feel free to give me a PM, be glad to assist. I give my cell phone out a lot around here. Education is key and it's free from us no mattet who who purchase from, be glad to help.
 
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#18
Never seen a F5032 in the wild. Never even heard of someone owning one. DTNVG will do everything you need it to, doesn't get much better than that housing.
 
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#22
Question for you NV vets.....
I'm looking at the DTNVG's with L3 Filmless as well. My question is as far as tube specs, what should I expect?
Is it reasonable to wait for 2700 FOM, .6 EBI, and <1 HALO?

Also, in the video below the guy mentions a spec of "2498 PS". What is he referring to?
 
#23
Gents! My DTNVGs, mount, and helmet showed up yesterday. I have to say that TNVC has been great to work with. I got tracking numbers, they answered questions, and the equipment was well packaged and arrived unscathed. 10 out of 10 for TNVC and highly recommend them if you're in the market for NODs or anything NOD adjacent.

L3 tubes are great. No sizable artifacts that I can detect and they are really powerful. I was playing around the house/backyard last night and I was shocked how much I could detect without an IR light source. The sensitivity of the tubes was so good that I actually could see quite well with the pinhole lens caps on.

Interestingly, the image sharpness actually increased when I had to cover on. With the caps off the view was brighter, but things were less sharp. Is this just because I'm in the burbs and there's too much light or am I doing something wrong?
 
#24
Yig said:
Interestingly, the image sharpness actually increased when I had to cover on. With the caps off the view was brighter, but things were less sharp. Is this just because I'm in the burbs and there's too much light or am I doing something wrong?
Click to expand...

This is a fundamental law of optics and happens with all NV (or any optical path, for that matter).

As the aperture decreases, resolution and depth-of-field will increase. You'll notice, with the pinhole covers installed, that you can see both near and far objects with virtually equal clarity. This is how the Tarsier and Phokus work, with the Tarsier being variable aperture. You will let less light in, but DOF and resolution / clarity increase. Great for light / day use or practice.

Also, you'll see things in your tubes / housing using the pinhole covers that are not visible during regular use.
 
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#25
RPGesus said:
Question for you NV vets.....
I'm looking at the DTNVG's with L3 Filmless as well. My question is as far as tube specs, what should I expect?
Is it reasonable to wait for 2700 FOM, .6 EBI, and <1 HALO?

Also, in the video below the guy mentions a spec of "2498 PS". What is he referring to?
Click to expand...


Guessing Photocathode Sensitivity
 
#26
TheHorta said:
This is a fundamental law of optics and happens with all NV (or any optical path, for that matter).

As the aperture decreases, resolution and depth-of-field will increase. You'll notice, with the pinhole covers installed, that you can see both near and far objects with virtually equal clarity. This is how the Tarsier and Phokus work, with the Tarsier being variable aperture. You will let less light in, but DOF and resolution / clarity increase. Great for light / day use or practice.

Also, you'll see things in your tubes / housing using the pinhole covers that are not visible during regular use.
Click to expand...
Those things are such a goat fuck.
 
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#27
Thanks Horta! So basically things are a "little blurry" running the NODs without the caps and that's just normal, correct? Sorry for the dumb questions. This is all new to me.
 
#28
Yig said:
Thanks Horta! So basically things are a "little blurry" running the NODs without the caps and that's just normal, correct? Sorry for the dumb questions. This is all new to me.
Click to expand...

That depends upon what you mean by “blurry.”

Have you properly focused both the front objectives for the objects you’re viewing? Adjusted the eyepieces for your vision?
 
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#29
Blurry probably isn't the right way to say it. Maybe out of focus for things closer than the range set by the objective lenses. The tubes pick up a lot of light so anything that emits light (watch face for example) causes some bloom at close ranges.
 
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