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Headspace help

jlow

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Aug 15, 2010
363
19
72
OK, part of this is my fault as I should have checked before I did the whole batch of twice fired brass but I did not thinking the setup was going to change spec that much.

To backup a bit, I have a resizing setup using a Lee Classic Cast Breech Lock Single Stage Press setup with Lee Quick Change Busing with Die Lock Rings and Redding Type S Bushing Full Length Sizer Die for 308 Winchester. I had previously adjusted the die so that when the case is FLR and placed into the chamber of my AR-10, the bolt (off the BCG and without extractor or ejector) would just fit into the chamber and turn smoothly. So my headspace is basically perfect. I put registration marks on the die and locking rings so that I would know if thereare any accidental changes made, it would be obvious. The lock ring is locked tight and the die does not move. When I put the prepared brass on a headspace gage, the top of the case was sitting almost even across the top of the maximum headspace level. I checked 10 or more of the cases prepared this way and they consistently sit at this level, so the method was very reproducible.

I prepared about 50 cases this way and fired them the last week and things went well. So I decided to reuse the cases and prep them the same way using the above press and die. The die had been taken off the press in the mean time since I was preparing some 223 brass but it went back into the press with no problem. The die is still locked tight in the rings and all the registration marks remained aligned.

I prepared 40 pieces of now twice fired brass and then decided to check headspace afterwards with the gauge just in case. What I found is that the top of the case now sits almost at the bottom at what would be minimum headspace level – WHAT? I checked 10 pieces of the newly resized brass and they are all now at the lower level. I then checked 10 pieces of brass from the previous prep which I had not fired and they still sit at the top i.e. max headspace level. Checked the press and die and rings and everything are still tight. So what gives? I would imagine that the press/die/ring should be able to keep the adjustments but clearly they don’t.

Has anyone seen this and does this mean that I have to adjust the die every time I take it off? Please help since I am not quite sure what is happening…….
 
Re: Headspace help

I had the same praoblem as you mentioned.
You mentioned twiced fired brass (from your rifle?) or just in general.
For the most part reloading for a gas gun you need to bump the shoulders back 3-5 thousands. To get it to rechamber and funtion properly.
The set up you had previously "might have been just enough" to get it to chamber properly. The case gauge you have might is a generak tool built to SAMMI specs, every chamber is different. An needs to be trated as such.

I went out and got a headspace gauge from Hornady. I measured 10% of the brass that I fired and gat the average. Set my die up so that the shoulders where getting bumped the same. This way everytime I chamber a round I know it will funtion properly


http://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/product/productId/7288
Hope this helps some

 
Re: Headspace help

jlow ......

Your FL die was set too low. The reason it worked initially is because the new case wasn't stretched yet. Your die was probably pushing the shoulder back farther than you think. Sometimes this causes case head separation.

As your brass was reloaded again and again, your cases stretch to fit the chamber - every time they are fired. This case stretching thins the brass above the web (solid part of the case).

After that your cases are easily bulged during the reloading process. You can measure <span style="text-decoration: underline">case width</span> about 3/8" above the head with the wide part of your calipers. You'll see the variation, and you'll be able to determine which cases are too wide.
[Remember, rifle cases are tapered.]

Check out my website, and look at the <span style="font-weight: bold">Digital Headspace Gauge</span>. This shows how to set your FL die height perfectly for your particular chamber. It can also measure the bullet jump to your rifling.

 
Re: Headspace help

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jlow</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> . I had previously adjusted the die so that when the case is FLR and placed into the chamber of my AR-10, the bolt (off the BCG and without extractor or ejector) would just fit into the chamber and turn smoothly. So my headspace is basically perfect.
</div></div>

You, my friend, are a KABOOM waiting to happen.

It's an autoloader, not a bolt gun. You need room as in headspace room. Chambers get dirty; bolts don't close; guns go kaboom. Ever see an out-of-battery explosion? You won't forget it.

You need to set your cases on a Wilson-type gauge to the bottom step for an auto-loader. I'm assuming the Lee is like the Wilson.

Brass irretreviably changes after each firing. Every time you fire, you have to adjust dies. You size a case, measure the headspace and adjust accordingly.

At first it's a pain. But you'll get to know your equipment well enough so it's easy to do.

I'd get a hornady headspace gauge and use that to set my shoulders back. It's way cheaper than the Willis gauge and faster.
 
Re: Headspace help

Thanks guys, I already brought a headspace gauge for the reasons you mentioned, it’s in the mail.

As for setting shoulders back 3-5 thousands, I understand the rationale for this, but does this also apply for an AR-10 that has a spring associated with the firing pin? A free floating pin like in an AR-15 could theoretically cause an out of battery KB, but it would seem that the spring in an AR-10 would keep the firing pin back and so much like a bolt gun? Just asking, not stating.

Innovative, I understand what you mean, but I am comparing once fired brass to twice fired brass and not to a new case.
 
Re: Headspace help

A guy just had an AR blow up and posted pics on this site just a few weeks ago.

It does happen. I've heard that stuff about how an AR can't fire out of battery. I've also seen more than a few blowed-up AR's over the years. I'd rather err on the side of safe. That means no high or sensitive primers and shoulders hit at least a couple thousandths.

Just remember with the headspace gauge the number is relative and it's not really an indication of chamber headspace. Is all you need to know is the before and after measurement. So if the ammo goes in the gun at...let's say...1.627 (on your gauge) and comes out at 1.631, you need to probably knock it back to 1.627 or 1.628.

There is a better way to do all this.

Get a chamber headspace gauge as in Forster or Clymer (like a go-gauge or no-go gauge.)

The actual measurement will be stamped on the gauge and those things are usually right on.

Zero your headspace gauge on the hornady headspace gauge. In othe words, take the bullet looking gauge and pop it in the Hornady gauge and zero the calipers. That zero is now an actual number.

So let's say you zero'd on a go gauge of 1.630. Now read a case. If it says -.003, then the actual number is 1.627.
The case is really 1.627. Now you have a real number to work with.
 
Re: Headspace help

I have just recently had some interesting issues with sizing and headspace.

I have the Hornady gauge and set my die to bump .002" on brass that I have had for some time. I anneal every 4 firings.

While my die was set up, I decided to size some brass that I had simply COW fireformed without changing the die. I measured the COW brass headspace and it was pretty well formed. All were shorter than the first lot of brass I bumped .002". I didn't think the die would even bump the shoulder. If anything, I expected it would grow which happens when you just size the body.

I ran it through the die and measured the COW brass. It was bumped .005".

Brass in different states of anneal have different "spring back". The COW brass was softer than the heavily used brass. The die was obviously set to bump the used brass and was set low in the lock ring. The workhardened brass needed lots of squishing to account for more spring back. The soft brass WAS getting bumped at that setting but didn't spring back.

Interesting.