Help me Configure a JP SCI-20.

[Scotts556]

I have been playing around with JPs rilfe builder and I am planning on ordering a SCI-20 in .223.

The two biggest things I cant make my mind up on is barrel length and stock.

I'm stuck between 16/18/20inch

Its either the UBR or ?????????

More than likely wont get shot much past 6-700. Really want just a fun range gun and something to try PRS gas gun with.

 

[xanderzuk]

I have this with an ATACR 4-16 and a B5 sopmod. Was whacking steel in a private tournament last weekend at 600m using trash pmc 55gr in heavy gusting winds like it was right in front me.

Loved the maneuverability of the 16” and obviously making hits (again, using light, trash ammo) wasn’t a problem. I would only go to the 18”-20” if you want something even smoother or might shoot consistently over 600m

All that said, my next JP will be either an 18” or 20” for a little variety

JP Enterprises JP15 Professional .223 Wylde Ready Rifle 16" 1:8" Black Teflon w/(1) 10rd P-Mag RR-JP15PRO

JP Enterprises JP15 Professional .223 Wylde Ready Rifle 16" 1:8" Black Teflon w/(1) 10rd P-Mag RR-JP15PRO For Sale

www.eurooptic.com

 

[B4forever]

Split the difference and go 18”. You get the benefit of a RLGS and a little extra velocity.

 

[N_Turs]

I say 16”, I like my guns as short as possible for the application. That being said I also have a 16” that I shoot out to 600 plus often and never have any issues. My current 16” is a Ridgeline I actually sold a 16” jp cause I wanted to try something else but I also shot the jp out to those ranges often.

 

[TimK]

Brake or can? I have a JP 20" running their tank brake and a 14.5" (with pinned Thunderbeast flash hider) that I run with a 5" can. Neither is as handy as a true 16" on a Vtac wall, but both are acceptable. I like suppressors, and everyone else at matches hates the tank brake.

I like and use the UBR on several rifles. For precision rifles, I strongly prefer the PRS so I can get something resembling a cheek weld in prone. With 1.5" scope mounts, it sucks ass for me to try to shoot prone with the UBR. Your face and mileage may vary.

 

[Scotts556]

Brake or can? I have a JP 20" running their tank brake and a 14.5" (with pinned Thunderbeast flash hider) that I run with a 5" can. Neither is as handy as a true 16" on a Vtac wall, but both are acceptable. I like suppressors, and everyone else at matches hates the tank brake.

I like and use the UBR on several rifles. For precision rifles, I strongly prefer the PRS so I can get something resembling a cheek weld in prone. With 1.5" scope mounts, it sucks ass for me to try to shoot prone with the UBR. Your face and mileage may vary.

eventually I will get a can for it.

Im torn on stocks, while the PRS is the easy button, the lack of top charging handle opens alot of options.

 

[Jonny_]

What stock options are opened up by no top charging handle? I'm planning on a similar build but in 22ARC.

 

[j-moose32]

I say 16”, I like my guns as short as possible for the application. That being said I also have a 16” that I shoot out to 600 plus often and never have any issues. My current 16” is a Ridgeline I actually sold a 16” jp cause I wanted to try something else but I also shot the jp out to those ranges often.

How do you like the ridgeline rd15 vs sci -20?

 

[N_Turs]

I like it so far, kinda wish the gas block was adjustable and I’m still tinkering with the buffer in it. I just picked up an upper and have been trying the a5 buffer set up but really hate the spring noise. Probably will switch to a jp scs. They are both nice rifles the jp did seem smoother overall but I also wasn’t a fan of the jp handguard. Both have no problem shooting great groups. I had more time with the jp and am a big jp fan so time will tell.

 

[j-moose32]

I’m going to get one of the two, just haven’t fully committed to one. The reduction in price of the RD is tempting, but everyone always says if JP is in the question, it’s always the right answer ha

 

[N_Turs]

You can’t go wrong with a jp and I’d say if you’ve never owned one get that. They are just so smooth and a pleasure to shoot. That being said the RD seems to be a very nice shooter as well and I really like all the design that has went into it. Kinda what sold me on giving it a try. The full arca rail on the hand guard is nice and doesn’t cause me any discomfort in the hand. Some have said they don’t like grabbing it but they must have bitch mittens cause it’s fine for me and I’m not a big dude at all. You’d be happy with either and both should shoot great if you do your part. Even with getting the buffer dialed I haven’t had any issue with the RD. I also run is suppressed most of the time and the gas systems for not being adjustable does seem to be pretty dialed. Not too much gas to the face. I run a griffin hrt can.

 

[Scotts556]

What stock options are opened up by no top charging handle? I'm planning on a similar build but in 22ARC.

These two are some of the options that come to mind, Take off RPR stocks are another one.

MDT SCS - Skeleton Carbine Stock

mdttac.com

TR-2 Tactical Buttstock

Maximize rifle adaptability with the TR-2 tactical buttstock, offering diverse adjustments for the perfect fit. Compatible with XLR chassis, and can be configured for AR 15’s, upgrade your shooting today.

xlrindustries.com

 

[Ex E6]

Sorry those look like an over engineered hockey slapper . As for barrel length what's the Dif in 4" for maneuverability verses 0-1K Yd.
I'll take the 20" every time .

 

[hlee]

Sorry those look like an over engineered hockey slapper . As for barrel length what's the Dif in 4" for maneuverability verses 0-1K Yd.
I'll take the 20" every time .

A 4” difference is pretty substantial when moving in and around barricades, shooting ports, confined spaces, and pretty much all of the typical obstacles you see in competitions.

 

[River44]

Everything about a jp rifle is awesome…except their barrels. When you pay the money you pay for a jp you should expect them to shoot lights out. Mine couldn’t hit water if It fell in it. It’s getting a new barrel from a well known and respected establishment. While talking to the gentleman there he mentioned that he couldn’t even begin to tell me how many barrels they’ve replaced on jp rifles. Maybe I got a crap barrel so take this post for what it is.

 

[hlee]

Everything about a jp rifle is awesome…except their barrels. When you pay the money you pay for a jp you should expect them to shoot lights out. Mine couldn’t hit water if It fell in it. It’s getting a new barrel from a well known and respected establishment. While talking to the gentleman there he mentioned that he couldn’t even begin to tell me how many barrels they’ve replaced on jp rifles. Maybe I got a crap barrel so take this post for what it is.

Maybe I got an odd ball, but my one JP barrel is a hammer.

 

[j-moose32]

Everything about a jp rifle is awesome…except their barrels. When you pay the money you pay for a jp you should expect them to shoot lights out. Mine couldn’t hit water if It fell in it. It’s getting a new barrel from a well known and respected establishment. While talking to the gentleman there he mentioned that he couldn’t even begin to tell me how many barrels they’ve replaced on jp rifles. Maybe I got a crap barrel so take this post for what it is.

Weird, not discrediting you, but on the whole from what I’ve seen is that JP barrels shoot. I have a large frame and it can group sub MOA with factory ammo from the prone supported.

 

[Scotts556]

Everything about a jp rifle is awesome…except their barrels. When you pay the money you pay for a jp you should expect them to shoot lights out. Mine couldn’t hit water if It fell in it. It’s getting a new barrel from a well known and respected establishment. While talking to the gentleman there he mentioned that he couldn’t even begin to tell me how many barrels they’ve replaced on jp rifles. Maybe I got a crap barrel so take this post for what it is.

what ammo? What did jp have to say about it?

 

[Scotts556]

Sorry those look like an over engineered hockey slapper . As for barrel length what's the Dif in 4" for maneuverability verses 0-1K Yd.
I'll take the 20" every time .

yup. but I want all the adjustments,

Hell even my shotguns have Adjustable LOP, adjustable but pads for height/cant, adjustable combs.

 

[River44]

what ammo? What did jp have to say about it?

Berger match hybrid otm 130gr, Berger match 140gr hybrid, Hornady 140 & 147 eld, federal gmm 140, Norma golden target 143, Berger 144 hybrid. All grouped like a shotgun @ 100yds. JP did tell me to send it back and they would look at it but by that point I was pretty disgusted and disappointed with the whole deal so instead of having future doubts about their barrel quality or lack thereof I just ordered a Bartlein from Craddock.

 

[Scotts556]

Berger match hybrid otm 130gr, Berger match 140gr hybrid, Hornady 140 & 147 eld, federal gmm 140, Norma golden target 143, Berger 144 hybrid. All grouped like a shotgun @ 100yds. JP did tell me to send it back and they would look at it but by that point I was pretty disgusted and disappointed with the whole deal so instead of having future doubts about their barrel quality or lack thereof I just ordered a Bartlein from Craddock.

Well sorry ya had bummer of a barrel. They are humans and sometimes a bummer of product sneaks by.

 

[River44]

Well sorry ya had bummer of a barrel. They are humans and sometimes a bummer of product sneaks by.

That is does

 

[N_Turs]

Mine was also a hammer, the rifle was definitely sub moa gun all the time with a mix of ammo. I would have sent it back their customer service is top tier as well.

 

[JR1200W3]

I’m going to get one of the two, just haven’t fully committed to one. The reduction in price of the RD is tempting, but everyone always says if JP is in the question, it’s always the right answer ha

The RD is really a baseline, solid build outside of the upper and handguard. That's the only magic in the gun. It's well put together using not super fancy but quality parts. It's literally just a VLTOR buffer tube and A5 buffer, springco spring. The CH is pretty basic, no gas busting design. The Proof barrel is kind of a disappointment if you ask me. I think Proofs barrels have kind of nose dived lately and they're now way overpriced for what they are. The RD barrel is a really great contour and the port size is correct for the dwell time. Having an intermediate length gas is also a great call. All that just to get some pretty mediocre accuracy from a cut rifles barrel. Uggh. The BCG is well spec'd and has a quality coating. The castle nut and end plate is functional, installed properly and staked. All well built but pretty ham and eggs. Big ass'd ambi mag release for lefties, but no bolt release for righties. It would add some impressive fairy dust if they had incorporated an ADM style right side bolt release lever. But it's kind of a parts build. Just not in the same league as most of JP's components. Aside from the handguard/ upper fitment. That's the magic in the RD. The gas block is pretty cool. I kind of wish all GBs were made like theirs. But all in all, I think the RD is overpriced. If they sold a builders kit for $1500 I would just buy that and build it properly myself but with an SCS and a quality barrel.

I think JP uses a decent button rifled barrel OEM that generally turns out quality barrels but it does seem like they turn out some lemons. It also doesn't appear they test fire for groups before shipping them. I've heard quite a few disappointing stories from friends about some really expensive JP rifles. They've all been pretty mum about it but will tell you when chatting in person. The good news is it appears JP takes care of their customers and people don't end up with lemons in the long run.

For the OP: As far as the 16" barrel thing, my thoughts FWIW...if you want a short barreled short range, semi-precion rifle go 16" DT suppressor over a P&W brake adapter 14.5. They end up being the same length but the brake adapter/ suppressor hub adapter combo always ends up being heavier. If you want a precision gasser rifle, just go 20". I picked up 130fps going from a 16" proof to a 20" WOA barrel. I find the portability around barricades thing to be way oversold. The time you might pick up on a stage where you have to retract the barrel 4" less when switching ports is pretty unquantified in a total stage par time. And the number of times you shoot from a port is pretty rare as well. Most of the time you just high ready, port arms the barrel over or around a barricade.... just like you do with a center-fire bolt gun made for PRS. Keep in mind that I'm talking about real precision rifle matches. If you're just shooting a full size IPSC at 200yds from a VTAC barricade..sure, whatever barrel length you want, doesn't matter.

 

[JR1200W3]

Might also want to consider the Magpul DTPR buttstock as well, pretty similar to a PRS lite and accepts the .25"/ .5" cheek risers

 

[j-moose32]

I’ve been keeping my eyes open for a sci-20 in 18”, but I still like the RD15 as well, and think ridgeline overall is a good group overall.
I’m leaning towards the sci, just because of 18” and the rd is only 16” at the moment. The FDE sure looks good. And thanks for your detailed response

 

[Scotts556]

I’m going to get one of the two, just haven’t fully committed to one. The reduction in price of the RD is tempting, but everyone always says if JP is in the question, it’s always the right answer ha

What is the RD rifle you speak of? rifle Dynamics?

 

[Scotts556]

Nvm, I figured out what the RD-15 is. Seems like a whole lot of money to spend on a very generic looking AR.