I have a Remington 700 SPS in 243 caliber. Finally got the new Bell&Carlson vertical grip tactical stock. Had to introduce the stock to Mr. Dremel to make it a completely free floating barrel. Went to the range the past two days. There was no consistent pattern with the groupings. My question is when you change into a new stock, does your load have to be modified slightly? Thank you for your help
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Help on what to do
- Thread starter desertHK
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Re: Help on what to do
When Mr. Dremel took his excursion, was the material he removed at the end of the barrel channel, and did it have the sort of shape that made it look like it had been put there deliberately?
The reason I asked is that when I bought my 700 VLS .223 about a decade ago, I did pretty much the same as you, and got pretty much the same result. It wasn't until I replaced the contact area/presure pad that accuracy returned. Some rifles, barrel contour completely aside, simply seem to require a contact pad at the end of the barrel channel in order to tame the barrel and deliver consistent accuracy.
A temporary fix that can identify this situation is to place shim material inside the front end of the barrel channel, enough to induce some slight upward flex to the barrel when the stock screws are fully tightened.
If it works, simply glue in the shims and the fix is permanent.
Also, don't attempt load development until after you do this test, or you might find the intial development work was a waste of time and components.
Greg
When Mr. Dremel took his excursion, was the material he removed at the end of the barrel channel, and did it have the sort of shape that made it look like it had been put there deliberately?
The reason I asked is that when I bought my 700 VLS .223 about a decade ago, I did pretty much the same as you, and got pretty much the same result. It wasn't until I replaced the contact area/presure pad that accuracy returned. Some rifles, barrel contour completely aside, simply seem to require a contact pad at the end of the barrel channel in order to tame the barrel and deliver consistent accuracy.
A temporary fix that can identify this situation is to place shim material inside the front end of the barrel channel, enough to induce some slight upward flex to the barrel when the stock screws are fully tightened.
If it works, simply glue in the shims and the fix is permanent.
Also, don't attempt load development until after you do this test, or you might find the intial development work was a waste of time and components.
Greg
Re: Help on what to do
A big +1 to what Mr.Langelius said. I have a Remington mountain rifle in 7X57 that will shoot 3/4" 3 shot groups with tip pressure but 2" free floated. I used a cut up credit card epoxied in place to get the pressure.
A big +1 to what Mr.Langelius said. I have a Remington mountain rifle in 7X57 that will shoot 3/4" 3 shot groups with tip pressure but 2" free floated. I used a cut up credit card epoxied in place to get the pressure.
Re: Help on what to do
Unfortunately, there is no material at the end of the barrel channel. I only took off the side rim at about 1/2 up the barrel. This is because the contour of the barrel is slightly bigger at this point. The instruction stated that there might be small adjustment needed. After that, the whole thing dropped in nicely. Before I introduced Mr. Dremel, I ran the paper test under the barrel and it was freely floated up to about 1/2 way down the barrel.
Unfortunately, there is no material at the end of the barrel channel. I only took off the side rim at about 1/2 up the barrel. This is because the contour of the barrel is slightly bigger at this point. The instruction stated that there might be small adjustment needed. After that, the whole thing dropped in nicely. Before I introduced Mr. Dremel, I ran the paper test under the barrel and it was freely floated up to about 1/2 way down the barrel.
Re: Help on what to do
Might want to double check the action screw settings. What did you torque them down at (35, 40, 65 in pounds or ?).
Try this: take the rifle out of the stock. Use a magic & color the entire bedding block. Put the action back in & go shoot. Take it back out (Carefully!) & see if there are any marks to indicate the action is moving around. If it show sign of movement you either need to torque it tighter, skim bed (Or both).
Might want to double check the action screw settings. What did you torque them down at (35, 40, 65 in pounds or ?).
Try this: take the rifle out of the stock. Use a magic & color the entire bedding block. Put the action back in & go shoot. Take it back out (Carefully!) & see if there are any marks to indicate the action is moving around. If it show sign of movement you either need to torque it tighter, skim bed (Or both).
Re: Help on what to do
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DesertHK</div><div class="ubbcode-body">What is the proper torque for a Remington action? </div></div>
McMillan told me over the phone 35 for front 40inchlbs for the back one.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DesertHK</div><div class="ubbcode-body">What is the proper torque for a Remington action? </div></div>
McMillan told me over the phone 35 for front 40inchlbs for the back one.
Re: Help on what to do
How did the rifle shoot in the original stock? Was there a pressure pad at the end of the ORIGINAL stock? Is your paralax set right on your scope? I had this trouble yesterday doing some load development. Amazing what a difference correct paralax will do!
How did the rifle shoot in the original stock? Was there a pressure pad at the end of the ORIGINAL stock? Is your paralax set right on your scope? I had this trouble yesterday doing some load development. Amazing what a difference correct paralax will do!
