A family member found an Arisaka Type 38 no mum, tokyo arsenal in a foreclosed home closet. It looked like crap until I got some of the surface rust off and cleaned the action and decades worth of dead spiders and insects and webs from the barrel. I was surprised how good the barrel looked and got an itch to see if this thing shoots. The bolt body was intact and after a good bit of cleaning I was able to get the bolt removed and thoroughly clean it out. Found a firing pin assembly online and safety knob and from what I see, this gun should run just fine. My issue is a crack through the grip of the stock. I am not a formal gunsmith but I think this is an opportunity to learn some stock restoration. No intention of selling this and just want it functional. So before I hunt for the stock on Ebay I want to see if anyone has any tips even if its "don't waste your time trying to restore that." Thanks in advance.
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Help restoring Arisaka Type 38
- Thread starter TraumaControl
- Start date
Better pictures please.
Is it last ditch?
Bores were chromed, it should shine like a new dime.
The oil for the stock doesn't have exist. The original was actually toxic - suicidal japs.
I've been told pure lemon oil is the closest restorative finish.
Mine was Last Ditch covered with light rust, scrubbed the crap out of it with a bronze brush and CLP.
Cleaned up nice and would have cleaned better had I put time into it but I traded it to Cabelas for $250 off a pre 64 Model 70.
Is it last ditch?
Bores were chromed, it should shine like a new dime.
The oil for the stock doesn't have exist. The original was actually toxic - suicidal japs.
I've been told pure lemon oil is the closest restorative finish.
Mine was Last Ditch covered with light rust, scrubbed the crap out of it with a bronze brush and CLP.
Cleaned up nice and would have cleaned better had I put time into it but I traded it to Cabelas for $250 off a pre 64 Model 70.
The crack.
Spread it withOUT having it go further.
Fill it up with good wood glue.
Wipe off squeeze out with warm water.
Wrap it tight with surgical rubber tubing.
Spread it withOUT having it go further.
Fill it up with good wood glue.
Wipe off squeeze out with warm water.
Wrap it tight with surgical rubber tubing.
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No such thing as a "last ditch" type 38. The OP's was made at Tokyo Arsenal, so DOM would be before 1934. Post '34 the Arsenal was known as Kokura.
Also no type 38's had chrome lined bores.
The stock finish is called Urushiol and bush from which it is made from is in the poison oak family. If you're allergic to poison oak sanding a Urushiol finish will cause you to break out.
From the pics the stock looks to have severe water damage and may even be rotten in places.
Im notably schooled.....
When it comes to Jap rifles they all look the same to me.
fill the crack with glue like Pmclaine explained, then reinforce with some all-thread.
That's not a Tokyo Arsenal, its Kokura. It has a series marking.
Tokyo's were all "no series " rifles.
The Arsenal marking was the same though.
Came to make this exact suggestion once I saw the crack. You do NOT want to be firing that rifle or any rifle with a crack in the wrist area like that with just a glue joint holding it together. The joint will eventually fail in shear and send the top half of that rifle straight back at your face with a nice sharp freshly cracked stock as its leading edge. It needs reinforcement as outlined in the quoted video.
That said looking more closely at some of these pictures, I will send that it looks water damaged. Id be wary of rot.
Your stock is repairable. I've done worse. It needs to be done professionally as it will need to be reinforced internally and the external cracks made as transparent as possible. If your not concerned about originality look for a replacement stock. Should not be difficult to locate in USA.
Ron (Canada)
Ron (Canada)
Most any type 38 rifle stock should fit, but the only "correct" stock would be another from a Kokura series 20 rifle.
Only 11000 Kokura series 20 rifles were made so well worth restoring.
Yours was made in early 1937 best I can tell.
Only 11000 Kokura series 20 rifles were made so well worth restoring.
Yours was made in early 1937 best I can tell.
- Nov 3, 2010
- 9,885
- 20,920
My ex father in law had picked one up 15+ years ago at an auction and gave it to me. It was missing parts. I took it to a local Smith named Bob White that has now passed. He had rebarreled one to .308 for another customer. He had mentioned that he had corresponded with P.O. Ackley about many projects. The type 38 is considered one of the strongest bolt action rifles ever built. You can find articles where Ackley had used the Arisaka for proof testing. Supposedly the action never failed. The .308 customer he said had a shilen match barrel he wanted installed, Bob said it was "Like putting perfume on a hog." But it was accurate. IIRC chambering was a multi step process to headspace it and then remove the barrel to cut the extractor clearance.
@TraumaControl I think I have a box Norma 6.5 ammo if you pay shipping you are welcome too. Norma is boxer primed, non corrosive and reloadable. I had a hard time finding it 15+ years ago.
Good luck with your restoration.
@TraumaControl I think I have a box Norma 6.5 ammo if you pay shipping you are welcome too. Norma is boxer primed, non corrosive and reloadable. I had a hard time finding it 15+ years ago.
Good luck with your restoration.
Very nice.
My Nagoya Type 38.
Rebarreled but still in the original 6.5x50sr caliber.
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- Nov 3, 2010
- 9,885
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Thanks, yours is sharp too. Haven’t done much shooting with mine but about to change that, just picked up an assortment of bullets ranging from 130-160g.
Anything can be done , and by the looks of yours it seems pretty nice .
i would restore it if possible .
i would restore it if possible .
Bumping this thread as I'm in a similar situation.
I bought a T99 sporter for $150 from a guy who found the rifle in an estate sale storage unit. I was going to part out the gun until I noticed the bolt is fully matching. The forend is chopped about an inch forward of the front barrel band, and whoever sporterized the gun put a T38 band on instead of keeping the T99 band (T99 bands have a screw that goes through the stock, T38 bands don't).
Here's my question - are there any bedding issues specific to Arisakas? If I put on a replacement stock, what issues would I be looking at? The T38 front band is only held in place by an unsprung detent pin -- I spoke with a gunsmith about how to fix the band issue and properly retain the upper handguard, and his only idea was to install a set screw into the wood. So, I'm going to buy replacement wood and forend iron. What issues would I face in putting on a replacement stock set?
I bought a T99 sporter for $150 from a guy who found the rifle in an estate sale storage unit. I was going to part out the gun until I noticed the bolt is fully matching. The forend is chopped about an inch forward of the front barrel band, and whoever sporterized the gun put a T38 band on instead of keeping the T99 band (T99 bands have a screw that goes through the stock, T38 bands don't).
Here's my question - are there any bedding issues specific to Arisakas? If I put on a replacement stock, what issues would I be looking at? The T38 front band is only held in place by an unsprung detent pin -- I spoke with a gunsmith about how to fix the band issue and properly retain the upper handguard, and his only idea was to install a set screw into the wood. So, I'm going to buy replacement wood and forend iron. What issues would I face in putting on a replacement stock set?
I don't have any vintage Japanese rifles, but if I did and needed advice re parts and repair, I'd post on this gunboards forum instead of this thread:
Firearms Of The Rising Sun
For the collectors of the weapons and militaria of Japan. This board supports and is the forum section for the world acclaimed Japanese collectors group, BANZAI. This board is the best one on the net for Imperial Japanese arms and accoutrement's with all of the leading experts regularly in...
www.gunboards.com
....Old Japanese rifles (& old Italian/German/etc) are really niche rifles and probably get best to get advice those who collect Japanese rifles...My 2cts.
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- Nov 3, 2010
- 9,885
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If the stock is for a type 99, then it should fit with little to no issue. These were mass produced guns with no real intention on accuracy. I’d place it in the same category as any US production service rifle/carbine. The wood will fit good enough to keep it shootable.
If you want to play with attempting to improve “accuracy” then you could get into the weeds of making sure the stock doesn’t rub in odd places. However, I don’t think you will have any issues with a replacement wood set and being able to take it out and shoot it.
The more important question is, does your receiver still have the mum or has it been ground off?
I don't have any vintage Japanese rifles, but if I did and needed advice re parts and repair, I'd post on this gunboards forum instead of this thread:
Firearms Of The Rising Sun
For the collectors of the weapons and militaria of Japan. This board supports and is the forum section for the world acclaimed Japanese collectors group, BANZAI. This board is the best one on the net for Imperial Japanese arms and accoutrement's with all of the leading experts regularly in...
....Old Japanese rifles (& old Italian/German/etc) are really niche rifles and probably get best advice those who collect Japanese rifles...My 2cts.
I'm a member of Gunboards, so I'll double check with them. Happened to find this thread when Googling Arisaka bedding issues.
Some military guns have particular bedding issues, like the SMLE/No. 1 MkIII. Ground mum. I have no interest in accurizing this gun, I just want to get it into a state of being safe to fire and to look the part of being a Type 99.
I've shot a T99 before and it was pretty similar to other milsurp bolt guns - short length of pull, .30"/.303"-bore, good amount of recoil. If I shoot 20-40 rounds per year, that's plenty.
It’s 2022, so I’d use something like T-88 epoxy for the repair. Stronger, better wicking properties if you heat the crack and epoxy, and dries amber so hides better. Long open time too.
Not likely. Dude in video is in Charleston area. Used to work closely with C&rsenal. @M77 shows from Australia.
I wish I was Mark Novak haha, he's a wealth of knowledge and a pleasure to watch
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