Help stuck need help!!!!

swarrick

swarrick

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Jun 12, 2006
638
6
Commiefornia (Ridgcrest)
#1
Ok So I have a Dumbass friend that tried to pull a 7.62 bore snake through a 5.56 bore. YES it is friggen stuck!!!! On top of that he cut the pull cord!!! The snake is stuck about a 1/4 inch into the bore past the chamber. I have tried beat it out with a rod (Dewey) I have soked it in CLP/Kroil and it will not budge at all. Is there anything else that can be done?
 
#7
swarrick said:
Ok So I have a Dumbass friend that tried to pull a 7.62 bore snake through a 5.56 bore. YES it is friggen stuck!!!! On top of that he cut the pull cord!!! The snake is stuck about a 1/4 inch into the bore past the chamber. I have tried beat it out with a rod (Dewey) I have soked it in CLP/Kroil and it will not budge at all. Is there anything else that can be done?
Click to expand...
You are sure this was a friend? Right?
wvlapua said:
Use a wooden dowel rod and tap it out. Get the largest possible diameter that will fit in the barrel.
Click to expand...
That was my first thought, the wood dowel shouldn't damage the rifling.
sib1948 said:
Why I don't like bore snakes. Anyone ever gotten a cleaning rod stuck? I doubt it!
Click to expand...

Been using them for years, work great. Probably wouldn't be much of an issue if it wasn't a 30 cal bore snake stuck in a 22 barrel.
 
#8
Help stuck need help!!!!

sib1948 said:
Why I don't like bore snakes. Anyone ever gotten a cleaning rod stuck? I doubt it!
Click to expand...

Cleaning rods can fuse into a barrel because of the dissimilar metals. There's one I call 'Ex-caliber', at Rifles Only, that no one has yet been able to remove from the barrel.
 
#11
Find out what temp the snake melts at, then put the barrel in the oven at 50-100 degrees less. It should become quite easily stretched at that temp and maybe not break. Just pull it out. It may be 50' long when you're done but so what. Just a guess.
 
#12
Or you could duck tape another rifle to the end of the one with the stuck object and fire a round hoping it will drive the stuck one out. Be sure to use LOTS of duck tape. ..wouldn't want any gas to leak out. And let your have the honor of pulling the trigger.

Sometimes I just amaze my self!!!
 
#13
PS make sure you pull in the original direction the snake was being pulled. That wire brush is gonna lock up tighter than a suspension bridge keeper going backwards.
 
#14
The snake bore it is clothing out and plastic or rubber core , first disassembly form the stock dipping in hydraulic light oil for fews day and try it out with aluminum rod you can buy @ hardware easy , good luck , if if still not out follow mr Barneybdb metho :rolleyes::D
 
#15
If it were mine (disclaimer) I would purchase a solid aluminum rod, put the barrel in a vise and tap it out with a heavy weight hammer. The nylon pull cord is probably absorbing most of the force and will need to be compressed before your efforts will affect the plugged portion.
 
#16
I would be afraid that aluminum or brass would mushroom under the forces needed to get it out. Wood may splinter but I think it would be the best option. I wonder if there is a solvent that would dissolve the synthetic fiber it's made of.

Actually if you call the Boresnake people it is likely a question they have heard before. They may have an easy fix. Or at least a fix.
 
#18
Turd in the Pool said:
Yep, someone came up with the idea for pushing crap out of muzzle loaders. Brilliant! ;-)
Click to expand...

Just wondering, Turd, is that the gene or swimming pool?

I did see a cute sign one time by a swimming pool. It was just ....


"OOL". When I asked the owner said...."No P in the OOL."
 
#19
You can try and twist the snake. You say it is only a 1/4" in past the bore. So you should have alot of the snake hanging out the chamber. twist the material of the snake this will make the snake smaller in diameter as you twist it will become harder to twist as the material tightens up on itself. Start putting pressure on the snake by pulling it out. I have a felling you also got the snake with the section of brush in thbarrel and it is going to be hard to make the brushes bend and go the other direction in the barrel.
 
#23
try using air pressure,wet or soak the cord first,lightly tap the wet cord back into the muzzle a couple inches, use a rubber tipped blow gun with 120-175 psi. point in safe direction. the cord will work like a soft piston to push the brush out and not damage the bore. the wet cord will make a seal so the pressue will build up and push. just another idea to try. wear safety glasses.
 
#27
gatorbait308 said:
try using air pressure,wet or soak the cord first,lightly tap the wet cord back into the muzzle a couple inches, use a rubber tipped blow gun with 120-175 psi. point in safe direction. the cord will work like a soft piston to push the brush out and not damage the bore. the wet cord will make a seal so the pressue will build up and push. just another idea to try. wear safety glasses.
Click to expand...
Twist the snake in the direction that the riflings will unscrew it, in the direction it was inserted.
If You can get it to twist, then, the above mentioned compressed air might work.
I know a guy that used one of thse cleaning jags, with the point on the end. He got a rag stuck in the barrel, tried several different things to get it removed.
i took the rifle into the garage, used a rubber tip blow-gun, when that rag blew out of that barrel, it sounded like a .22 went off.
Be carefull, use a face mask and a pair of welding gloves, protect Your arms, chest and belly, that rag really come out with a force.
 
#29
If your rifle,
1. take to gunsmith
2. hand bill to "friend".

If his rifle,
1 hand back to him because it's strictly his problem.

In either case, remember that to have friends you must allow each of them a single incredible annoying trait. His is that he is a dumb ass.
 
#30
Put the barrel in a vice. Then get a 25 pack of bi-metal sawzall blades. Start at the muzzle and split the barrel in half. This should make it very easy to remove the snake. I'm not sure how well the gun will group afterwards, but we will worry with that once we are done.

Or

You could pick up some liquid nitro, freeze the snake and shatter it. (This was a joke, but I'm not sure it wouldn't work).....

Ryan
 
#31
Never used a boresnake so I don't know what it's made of. But I figure if you did manage to find a chemical that would dissolve it - it would also ruin the finish on the gun.
 
#32
I had the same problem with an AR15 but the bore snake got a twist in the end. I lost sleep over it for a week and finally I took a piece of stainless tubing and soldered a small drywall type screw in the tubing. Then very carefully ,on the chamber end, used my cordless drill to dig into the bore snake with the screw and after about three tries it caught it and came out. You cannot push one out I tried very aggressively to do so before using the other method. I was lucky and with a chrome lined chamber it did no damage at all cannot even see a mark in the chamber. Hope this helps I know it had me pissed at myself for better part of a week.
 
#33
Lot of good suggestions here but I still think that duct taping two rifle barrels together and blowing the obstruction is the way to go. Besides, your friend would never make the same mistake.
 
#36
I've done far worse. Not on a gun, but same idea. I got a rag jammed (and I mean jammed) into a 10' hydraulic line.

Here is what I did.

-take a piece of all thread that is smaller than the bore of a ratio of about 1:4. It needs to be 3" longer than the entire length of the barrel and receiver.
-Grind one end down to a four sided point (doesn't have to be perfect.)
-Take a triangle file and file notches into the point on the edges of the four sided point.
- But the barreled receiver into a padded vise (clamp it down tight)
-put your all thread into the chuck of a corded drill (not cordless or it will burn up) make sure the drill has a forward handle or your hurt your wrist
-push the all thread threw the barrel with them most room between the blockage and the end (be careful of the crown)
-start drilling in and out till it catches on the fabric and you pull little chunks out. After a while you'll get it out. But you'll have to push hard.

Be careful or you'll overheat the drill.
 
#37
The bore snake should be made of a solid piece of tubing that is fed into itself forming a double walled tube for thickness. This is what makes the loop at the end. Cut the exposed part of the tubing and attempt to pull the inner layer out of the outer. This might give you enough room to remove the rest.
 
#38
Total Subduction said:
I've done far worse. Not on a gun, but same idea. I got a rag jammed (and I mean jammed) into a 10' hydraulic line.

Here is what I did.

-take a piece of all thread that is smaller than the bore of a ratio of about 1:4. It needs to be 3" longer than the entire length of the barrel and receiver.
-Grind one end down to a four sided point (doesn't have to be perfect.)
-Take a triangle file and file notches into the point on the edges of the four sided point.
- But the barreled receiver into a padded vise (clamp it down tight)
-put your all thread into the chuck of a corded drill (not cordless or it will burn up) make sure the drill has a forward handle or your hurt your wrist
-push the all thread threw the barrel with them most room between the blockage and the end (be careful of the crown)
-start drilling in and out till it catches on the fabric and you pull little chunks out. After a while you'll get it out. But you'll have to push hard.

Be careful or you'll overheat the drill.
Click to expand...

Damned Yankee's ;-0 Why worry about the crown if you are going to grind the throat and rifling out with a piece of all thread? Can't fire a blank because it won't chamber, if it's a gas gun just move the block so the ports don't line up. ;-)

Grease gun is the salvation ;-)
 
#39
Turd in the Pool said:
Damned Yankee's ;-0 Why worry about the crown if you are going to grind the throat and rifling out with a piece of all thread? Can't fire a blank because it won't chamber, if it's a gas gun just move the block so the ports don't line up. ;-)

Grease gun is the salvation ;-)
Click to expand...

Agreeably, mine is not the best solution but I don't see how it would tear up the rifling. When I did it with a hydraulic hose it didn't hear up the hose.
 
#40
125 psi from a compressor will move a lot of shit, I almost took out my chief with a compressor, ball valve and an Evian water bottle crammed on the end of the ball valve once upon a time, I scrubbed ALOT of shitters after that. ;)
 
#41
Total Subduction said:
Agreeably, mine is not the best solution but I don't see how it would tear up the rifling. When I did it with a hydraulic hose it didn't hear up the hose.
Click to expand...

I'm sorry and feel free to slap me if you ever get down this way ;-) The all thread is basically a drill bit. If nothing else, an abrasive. I will guarantee you that zink coating is harder than a 4140 or 416 bbl. I'm sure the rubber lining in you hose was thinner in spots when you were done.
 
#42
I will throw my 2 cents in. It is a combo of two you have already heard but must be used together. Grease and the dowel. Put a good bit of wheel bearing grease in the end of the barrel and then a dowel in the end. give it a sharp rap and hydraulic pressure should dislodge it. Here is an example of what hydraulic pressure can do.


http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...2-military-crimped-berdan-primer-removal.html
 
#46
Why not just fire a round? It's a bore snake the bullet will just
Shove it out like it was nothing.

P.s sarcasm..
For the window lickers that thought this was for reals.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#47
That nylon turns into a hard plastic mess. I had a buddy who did this same thing and was hunting the next day. He was in a world of hurt. I very carefully using a foot long 1/8 inch diameter drill bit went into the mess. I was very careful not to touch the chamber wall, neck or throat area. I went slow and drilled right into the center. Came right out. Never will use a bore snake after seeing such a mess.

I thought about using some kind of acid - but it would screw up things even worse. tried beating it out - I figured I was going to do more damage - so the drilll bit was a last resort which worked.
 
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