I have a rem 700 in 22-250 that the barrel is shot out and instead of going with the 22-250 I'd like to re-chamber it in 260 rem and drop it in an acis stock. I never had a re-chamber before, besides chambering the barrel is there anything else the smith will have to do? From what I've read the 260 rem with feed out of the acis mags correct? And lastly I have a heavy contour barrel now and would like to go a little lighter something between sporter contour and heavy without it looking odd in the acis stock any suggestions. Thanks for taking the time to help a FNG out
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Help with a 260 rem build
- Thread starter HighGround260
- Start date
Re: Help with a 260 rem build
While at the smith, I'd have the action trued, very worth while on a factory action. The 260 will feed fine out of the AICS using 308 mags. I run a medium Palma contour, seems to be a good balance between light and heavy.
here is the medium Palma barrel finished @ 26" (243)
While at the smith, I'd have the action trued, very worth while on a factory action. The 260 will feed fine out of the AICS using 308 mags. I run a medium Palma contour, seems to be a good balance between light and heavy.
here is the medium Palma barrel finished @ 26" (243)
Re: Help with a 260 rem build
Also remember that a 260/6.5 cal barrel will be lighter than a 22 cal barrel in the same contour, smaller bore = more metal and weight.
Kirk R
Also remember that a 260/6.5 cal barrel will be lighter than a 22 cal barrel in the same contour, smaller bore = more metal and weight.
Kirk R
Re: Help with a 260 rem build
^^^^^ what he said.
I'm a big fan of the standard/medium Palma contour.
^^^^^ what he said.
I'm a big fan of the standard/medium Palma contour.
Re: Help with a 260 rem build
Thanks guys any suggestions on barrel twist and length this is going to be my long range steel/coyote hunting rig I looking to run 139 and 142 gr bullets and was thinking about a 24" barrel
Thanks guys any suggestions on barrel twist and length this is going to be my long range steel/coyote hunting rig I looking to run 139 and 142 gr bullets and was thinking about a 24" barrel
Re: Help with a 260 rem build
I'd suggest an 8 twist barrel for the heavier bullets.
Light Palma (very similar to a Rem Varmint) or Bull sporter (#5 Krieger, #3 Bartlein, #5 Brux) would serve you well.
I'd have action trued, verify screw holes for scope base are in line with barrel, put on a bolt knob, and epoxy bed.
What reamer are you planning to use? 260 Tac Match, SAAMI min spec, or ?????
I'd suggest an 8 twist barrel for the heavier bullets.
Light Palma (very similar to a Rem Varmint) or Bull sporter (#5 Krieger, #3 Bartlein, #5 Brux) would serve you well.
I'd have action trued, verify screw holes for scope base are in line with barrel, put on a bolt knob, and epoxy bed.
What reamer are you planning to use? 260 Tac Match, SAAMI min spec, or ?????
Re: Help with a 260 rem build
24" to 26" barrel will give you better ballistics and more velocity then a shorter barrel so you can take advantage of the 260 rem. I agree with 1 in 8" twist so you can stabilize the heavier bullets. AICS is a pretty heavy stock, and not something I would recommend for a hunting rig, if you are going to do a lot of hiking etc. For a comp rifle AICS stock is great. Consider a 2.0 for folding capability.
24" to 26" barrel will give you better ballistics and more velocity then a shorter barrel so you can take advantage of the 260 rem. I agree with 1 in 8" twist so you can stabilize the heavier bullets. AICS is a pretty heavy stock, and not something I would recommend for a hunting rig, if you are going to do a lot of hiking etc. For a comp rifle AICS stock is great. Consider a 2.0 for folding capability.
Re: Help with a 260 rem build
Yea I heard there pretty heavy, I've tried to find out how much they weigh but didn't have much luck. My coyote rig now weigh almost 12 pound so as long as I'm under that I don't mind. FCS Im not sure what reamer to go with anyone of them better then the other? I'm kinda new to re-barreling I usually but factory rifles
Yea I heard there pretty heavy, I've tried to find out how much they weigh but didn't have much luck. My coyote rig now weigh almost 12 pound so as long as I'm under that I don't mind. FCS Im not sure what reamer to go with anyone of them better then the other? I'm kinda new to re-barreling I usually but factory rifles
Re: Help with a 260 rem build
The AICS is about 5.4 lbs, they are heavy. A McMillan or Manners with light fill would be a good starting point.
Kirk R
The AICS is about 5.4 lbs, they are heavy. A McMillan or Manners with light fill would be a good starting point.
Kirk R
Re: Help with a 260 rem build
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The AICS is about 5.4 lbs, they are heavy.</div></div>
AICS feels great once set on the bipod, ready to shoot. But it feels like sh** getting it there!! <span style="font-style: italic">Hiring a guide/sherpa to carry my rifle suddenly doesn't seem like a bad idea!
</span>
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The AICS is about 5.4 lbs, they are heavy.</div></div>
AICS feels great once set on the bipod, ready to shoot. But it feels like sh** getting it there!! <span style="font-style: italic">Hiring a guide/sherpa to carry my rifle suddenly doesn't seem like a bad idea!
Re: Help with a 260 rem build
thanks guys for the advice I think I check out a differnt stock. FCS mentioned a remear, I'm going to be handloading so i take it I would want the to have it reamed with the SAAMI min spec reamer correct?
thanks guys for the advice I think I check out a differnt stock. FCS mentioned a remear, I'm going to be handloading so i take it I would want the to have it reamed with the SAAMI min spec reamer correct?
Re: Help with a 260 rem build
nate3006 -
Terry Cross is an expert (if not THE expert) on all things 260 Remington. I believe he designed a reamer named something like, "260 Tactical". Call JGS Reamers (541) 267-4331 or Pacific Tool and Gage (541) 826-5808 and ask what 260 reamers they have.
nate3006 -
Terry Cross is an expert (if not THE expert) on all things 260 Remington. I believe he designed a reamer named something like, "260 Tactical". Call JGS Reamers (541) 267-4331 or Pacific Tool and Gage (541) 826-5808 and ask what 260 reamers they have.
Re: Help with a 260 rem build
Nate,
I was in the same boat not too long ago when I wanted a .260 rem. I originally settled on a 9 twist #5 Douglas because it was in stock. It was horrible with the 139's and the barrel is still sitting in a corner in my room. I then sent the action to LA Precision with a Krieger heavy palma and have been more than satisfied. That rifle is a amazing.
For stocks I would go with a Manner T3 or McMillan A1-3...for an all around stock I think they will meet your needs. Both companies have specials on their sites ( Manners and McMillan Specials) or you can probably pick one up in the "Options and Accessories" here.
As already stated, get the action trued. I promise you won't look back when you do.
Nathan
Nate,
I was in the same boat not too long ago when I wanted a .260 rem. I originally settled on a 9 twist #5 Douglas because it was in stock. It was horrible with the 139's and the barrel is still sitting in a corner in my room. I then sent the action to LA Precision with a Krieger heavy palma and have been more than satisfied. That rifle is a amazing.
For stocks I would go with a Manner T3 or McMillan A1-3...for an all around stock I think they will meet your needs. Both companies have specials on their sites ( Manners and McMillan Specials) or you can probably pick one up in the "Options and Accessories" here.
As already stated, get the action trued. I promise you won't look back when you do.
Nathan
Re: Help with a 260 rem build
Make sure your reamer is going to keep you in AI mag territory. My buddy and I found out the hard way that AI mags weren't going to work for us due to the reamer our smith used (made long for 142gr SMK's).
Make sure your reamer is going to keep you in AI mag territory. My buddy and I found out the hard way that AI mags weren't going to work for us due to the reamer our smith used (made long for 142gr SMK's).
Re: Help with a 260 rem build
Thanks for the advice guys all I need to do is find a barrel and order the stock After looking I think I'm going to go with a manners MCS-GAT stock with the 90% fill option. How should I have the action bedded in the stock
Edit- never mind on the bedding I see manners has a mini chasis for there stocks. Any reason not to go with it?
Thanks for the advice guys all I need to do is find a barrel and order the stock After looking I think I'm going to go with a manners MCS-GAT stock with the 90% fill option. How should I have the action bedded in the stock
Edit- never mind on the bedding I see manners has a mini chasis for there stocks. Any reason not to go with it?
Re: Help with a 260 rem build
Use the 260 TAC from PTG It will work with the AICS mag. It's made for the 139/142 bullet.
Use the 260 TAC from PTG It will work with the AICS mag. It's made for the 139/142 bullet.
Re: Help with a 260 rem build
Here is a Stiller barreled action. I would sell your whole gun you have now. Say you get 450.00 ( not sure what you have ) buy this action for 1,600.00 that means you will have $1,150.00 in this then go to Stocky's on web and buy your manners stock with mini Chassis for 850.00 buy a jewel trigger 210.00
total cost into a custom 260 w manners stock = 2,210.00.
If you go the route you are thinking it will cost you this
To true action ( if you do it right means you have smith buy a PTG bolt with sako Extractor) cost = 350.00-450
buy barrel = 350.00
have threaded and chambered = 275.00
have fluted 175.00
have muzzle threaded = 125.00
have cerokote = 175.00
buy same stock = 850.00
buy jewel trigger = 210
total cost = $2,260.00
So you can have A CUSTOM STILLER ACTION GUN FOR $ 2,210.00
or
A trued remington gun for $ 2,260.00
I THINK IT IS A NO BRAINER******* here are the pictures of the barreled action I have 4-sale.
Here is a Stiller barreled action. I would sell your whole gun you have now. Say you get 450.00 ( not sure what you have ) buy this action for 1,600.00 that means you will have $1,150.00 in this then go to Stocky's on web and buy your manners stock with mini Chassis for 850.00 buy a jewel trigger 210.00
total cost into a custom 260 w manners stock = 2,210.00.
If you go the route you are thinking it will cost you this
To true action ( if you do it right means you have smith buy a PTG bolt with sako Extractor) cost = 350.00-450
buy barrel = 350.00
have threaded and chambered = 275.00
have fluted 175.00
have muzzle threaded = 125.00
have cerokote = 175.00
buy same stock = 850.00
buy jewel trigger = 210
total cost = $2,260.00
So you can have A CUSTOM STILLER ACTION GUN FOR $ 2,210.00
or
A trued remington gun for $ 2,260.00
I THINK IT IS A NO BRAINER******* here are the pictures of the barreled action I have 4-sale.
Re: Help with a 260 rem build
The barrel and the chamber are what matter. Even a decent H-S Precision stock will serve with excellence.
No "need" to true the action. Check bolt lugs, the rear contact area to verify 75% or better contact. Have gunsmith put a depth mic on the bolt face, verify that any variance is minor; like under .0025".
Critical factor is chamber. For precision application you want a Minimum oal chamber depth; like Go-gauge +.0005, maybe to .001" if you will shoot factory or issue ammunition. Want throat setup for specific bullet. Good reason to choose a LONG ACTION for the .260 rather than an SA. 142gr SMK or other 140gr+ bullet from Berger or JLK would be the optimum choice for longrange.
Pillar bed your stock unless have full alum bedding block. Skim bed or full glass the receiver after you shoot the finished barreled action.
Handloading is the key to your accuracy efforts. Not gonna handload? Then maybe you spend every dime you can scrape up on your rig, to buy you the confidence you need. If you already handload, you're on your way to rifle excellence and all you need do is ratchet up your techniques and gear possibly.
Best handloads tailored to your chamber, short oal chamber to maximize brass life and optimized seat depth is what will deliver sub .4" 5 shot groups.
Of course, you won't see these results with junk scope mount system or scope that isn't proven. Base & rings are more critical than the scope. You want a good scope, of course; but skimping on the mount set will only betray all your other work. All the scope needs to be is proven for movements of reticle and to have a reticle that is correctly oriented. Reticle has to track, unless all you intend is to shoot at one fixed distance.
To verify best performance, you shoot only 5 or 10 shot groups and use a square aiming point and set reticle each time on same corner of the box/aiming point. Benchrest targets are good as they have the sighter box above the record target. Set elevation so your groups impact a couple inches above your aiming point and shoot five or six groups to verify.
Need a trigger set at about 2.25lb to do decent work unless have a 2 stage trigger. Need to know how to shoot off of a bagged position and trigger the shot so sights do not shift. Study up on pinching off shot with rifle just butting up to your shoulder.
Start with Sierra match load recommendation and use that load for initial verification work. Might be able to get 100-150fps more velocity, but highest velo is rarely most conducive to accuracy.
Best tool to own to setup rifle for precision work is a boresighter/collimator like Bushnell 74-3333.
The barrel and the chamber are what matter. Even a decent H-S Precision stock will serve with excellence.
No "need" to true the action. Check bolt lugs, the rear contact area to verify 75% or better contact. Have gunsmith put a depth mic on the bolt face, verify that any variance is minor; like under .0025".
Critical factor is chamber. For precision application you want a Minimum oal chamber depth; like Go-gauge +.0005, maybe to .001" if you will shoot factory or issue ammunition. Want throat setup for specific bullet. Good reason to choose a LONG ACTION for the .260 rather than an SA. 142gr SMK or other 140gr+ bullet from Berger or JLK would be the optimum choice for longrange.
Pillar bed your stock unless have full alum bedding block. Skim bed or full glass the receiver after you shoot the finished barreled action.
Handloading is the key to your accuracy efforts. Not gonna handload? Then maybe you spend every dime you can scrape up on your rig, to buy you the confidence you need. If you already handload, you're on your way to rifle excellence and all you need do is ratchet up your techniques and gear possibly.
Best handloads tailored to your chamber, short oal chamber to maximize brass life and optimized seat depth is what will deliver sub .4" 5 shot groups.
Of course, you won't see these results with junk scope mount system or scope that isn't proven. Base & rings are more critical than the scope. You want a good scope, of course; but skimping on the mount set will only betray all your other work. All the scope needs to be is proven for movements of reticle and to have a reticle that is correctly oriented. Reticle has to track, unless all you intend is to shoot at one fixed distance.
To verify best performance, you shoot only 5 or 10 shot groups and use a square aiming point and set reticle each time on same corner of the box/aiming point. Benchrest targets are good as they have the sighter box above the record target. Set elevation so your groups impact a couple inches above your aiming point and shoot five or six groups to verify.
Need a trigger set at about 2.25lb to do decent work unless have a 2 stage trigger. Need to know how to shoot off of a bagged position and trigger the shot so sights do not shift. Study up on pinching off shot with rifle just butting up to your shoulder.
Start with Sierra match load recommendation and use that load for initial verification work. Might be able to get 100-150fps more velocity, but highest velo is rarely most conducive to accuracy.
Best tool to own to setup rifle for precision work is a boresighter/collimator like Bushnell 74-3333.
Re: Help with a 260 rem build
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: THUNDERBOLT68</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Everything matters..... It all works together..... </div></div>
True.
From your previous reply... You have to think about the resale value of the gun a year from now or 5 years from now. A Remington is only going to ever be a Remington, but a custom action "should" hold a better resale value.
That .260 of THUNDERBOLT68's is calling my name. Damn you, you're killing me.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: THUNDERBOLT68</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Everything matters..... It all works together..... </div></div>
True.
From your previous reply... You have to think about the resale value of the gun a year from now or 5 years from now. A Remington is only going to ever be a Remington, but a custom action "should" hold a better resale value.
That .260 of THUNDERBOLT68's is calling my name. Damn you, you're killing me.
Re: Help with a 260 rem build
Everything matters?
Do you own your chamber reamers?
Own a precision mic or case gauge to verify your chamber dimensions by miking case before and after firing?
Own an inch pound torque wrench and have tested performance at varying tensions?
Spending $500 on "an action job" is not where the results come from.
If you own a variety of custom built rifles, but don't know about chamber dynamics and handloading; then you're gonna believe what you believe. Once you understand how the components interact, you Know what matters.
Resale value? Buy a Sendero or PSS, maybe a Win 70 Heavy Varmint for about $750. Have the barrel set forward to minimum chamber specs, buy good scope mount setup and scope, load ammo so bullets just meet the lands and go shooting.
You try to sell any gun gear lately? Most of the guys are broke and there is very slim chance of getting your money back out of any gun or scope.
Got the money to blow? You pays your money and get what you get. A $3k bolt rifle might be a source of pride and perform superbly, but that H-S stocked Varmint Special can perform on the same level with a good trigger job and minimum chamber. The extra $2400 buys a lot of loading gear and replacement barrels plus gunsmithing gear.
On gunbroker there is a Savage LRP, new for BIN of $1k, chambered in .260 Rem. This rifle comes with a precision Acu Trigger, HS Precision stock, 26" heavy barrel. Have that barrel improved and set forward to min oal and you got a turnkey deal with no waiting. Savages are well thought of, I prefer Winchester, but for a ready to go solution, just add scope system, patch-out the bore and go shooting!
I would go long action. Winchester SA is longer than Rem SA and you can remove the spacer from the magazine box for more bullet seating potential.
Everything matters?
Do you own your chamber reamers?
Own a precision mic or case gauge to verify your chamber dimensions by miking case before and after firing?
Own an inch pound torque wrench and have tested performance at varying tensions?
Spending $500 on "an action job" is not where the results come from.
If you own a variety of custom built rifles, but don't know about chamber dynamics and handloading; then you're gonna believe what you believe. Once you understand how the components interact, you Know what matters.
Resale value? Buy a Sendero or PSS, maybe a Win 70 Heavy Varmint for about $750. Have the barrel set forward to minimum chamber specs, buy good scope mount setup and scope, load ammo so bullets just meet the lands and go shooting.
You try to sell any gun gear lately? Most of the guys are broke and there is very slim chance of getting your money back out of any gun or scope.
Got the money to blow? You pays your money and get what you get. A $3k bolt rifle might be a source of pride and perform superbly, but that H-S stocked Varmint Special can perform on the same level with a good trigger job and minimum chamber. The extra $2400 buys a lot of loading gear and replacement barrels plus gunsmithing gear.
On gunbroker there is a Savage LRP, new for BIN of $1k, chambered in .260 Rem. This rifle comes with a precision Acu Trigger, HS Precision stock, 26" heavy barrel. Have that barrel improved and set forward to min oal and you got a turnkey deal with no waiting. Savages are well thought of, I prefer Winchester, but for a ready to go solution, just add scope system, patch-out the bore and go shooting!
I would go long action. Winchester SA is longer than Rem SA and you can remove the spacer from the magazine box for more bullet seating potential.
Re: Help with a 260 rem build
Bignada, you remind me of my uncle.
IF YOU HAVE THE GUN BUILT RIGHT, YOU DO NOT NEED ALL THAT STUFF.
I guess we need to tell all the competitors that compete. ( f-class, tactical,bench, even long range hunters,) That they are wasting their money they just need to go down to Wal-Mart and buy a Savage. LOL...LOL...
Bignada, you remind me of my uncle.
IF YOU HAVE THE GUN BUILT RIGHT, YOU DO NOT NEED ALL THAT STUFF.
I guess we need to tell all the competitors that compete. ( f-class, tactical,bench, even long range hunters,) That they are wasting their money they just need to go down to Wal-Mart and buy a Savage. LOL...LOL...
Re: Help with a 260 rem build
For some people nothing is wrong with that. In fact I am glad that we have a price point for people to get into our sport and can grow.
To say a Savage, Remington , Winchester, etc... Are as good as a custom gun and will shoot with them is just plain Stupid. If that was the case then you would see all the competitors using them.
The pros, do not compete with Factory standard guns. Their Actions tell us what is in their minds.
There are people out there that can not buy the best. There is nothing wrong with that. But there are people out there like my Uncle that thinks his BSA 12 x 50 Is so much better than my S&B 5x25 pmII.
There are obvious products that are better than others. Some are a matter of opinion, some it is obvious.
For some people nothing is wrong with that. In fact I am glad that we have a price point for people to get into our sport and can grow.
To say a Savage, Remington , Winchester, etc... Are as good as a custom gun and will shoot with them is just plain Stupid. If that was the case then you would see all the competitors using them.
The pros, do not compete with Factory standard guns. Their Actions tell us what is in their minds.
There are people out there that can not buy the best. There is nothing wrong with that. But there are people out there like my Uncle that thinks his BSA 12 x 50 Is so much better than my S&B 5x25 pmII.
There are obvious products that are better than others. Some are a matter of opinion, some it is obvious.
Re: Help with a 260 rem build
Hey JFcomfort how much long of barrel is that ? I just sent an email for a 24" #5 brux fluted. How much does it weigh scope and all? Thats pretty much the set up I'm going for except mines going to be a lefty. It's ether the acis stock or manners depending on the weight
Hey JFcomfort how much long of barrel is that ? I just sent an email for a 24" #5 brux fluted. How much does it weigh scope and all? Thats pretty much the set up I'm going for except mines going to be a lefty. It's ether the acis stock or manners depending on the weight
Re: Help with a 260 rem build
Nate,
Black-X's post reminded me that William fitted my 260 with a Wyatt's magazine box to allow the extra length for the 139's (2.857 OAL). Just in case you decide not to go with a chasis or drop bottom mag, might want to go that route. I only did it to save a little money. I also bedded it myself using wnroscoe's bedding thread HERE There are twelve good pages you can sift through.
Nate,
Black-X's post reminded me that William fitted my 260 with a Wyatt's magazine box to allow the extra length for the 139's (2.857 OAL). Just in case you decide not to go with a chasis or drop bottom mag, might want to go that route. I only did it to save a little money. I also bedded it myself using wnroscoe's bedding thread HERE There are twelve good pages you can sift through.
Re: Help with a 260 rem build
The rifle comes in close to 19 lbs, I believe it was 18.75 lbs using a bathroom scale. The barrel is 27" Rock Creek 5R MTU chambered in 6.5 Creedmoor. I believe #5 is closer to a hunting contour but I could be mistaken. The only contours I'm familiar with are med. palma, MTU and Shilen's #7.
This is the old barrel it was a Shilen SS match grade select 1-8" twist @ 24" with a JP/Cooley brake.
The rifle comes in close to 19 lbs, I believe it was 18.75 lbs using a bathroom scale. The barrel is 27" Rock Creek 5R MTU chambered in 6.5 Creedmoor. I believe #5 is closer to a hunting contour but I could be mistaken. The only contours I'm familiar with are med. palma, MTU and Shilen's #7.
This is the old barrel it was a Shilen SS match grade select 1-8" twist @ 24" with a JP/Cooley brake.
Re: Help with a 260 rem build
Nate,
As far as barrel goes, the medium Palma is almost the equal to the rem varmint. That’s a great contour in the AI Chassis, not too light or too heavy. Either a 1-8 or 1-8.5 will be money. Krieger or Bartlein is the only way to go.
Stocks, McMillan or Manners, nuff said.
Your receiver, have it trued (the right way) and replace the recoil lug with a custom .250" thick surface ground recoil lug (no, they're not all the same and not all are flat) Purchase a 20 moa rail and a badger style bolt knob, that’s it.
Chambers, this is where you need to choose carefully and put a little thought into what your going to shoot. If lapua brass is in your future the good people at JGS have a 260 Lapua print / Reamer that I had worked up. Basically, it's the same as my other 260 reamers with the exception of a larger neck diameter.
If you plan on running the 139 scenars (possibly the best 260 bullet on the market) then .080" to .090" free bore is perfect. This will allow you some wiggle room in an AI magazine and be -.005 from the lands. If you plan on shooting VLD's in a standard, un-modified AI magazine be prepared to shorten the free bore to approx. .050" to .060" in order to be in the lands and mag feed.
H4350 is the ticket, 41.5 to 42.0 grains with a CCIBR2 primer is a tack driving load.
I own 2-260's and have built numerous others. I run 139 Scenars in one with AI magazines and 140 Berger VLD's in the other with AW magazines. Both rifles were chambered with the same reamer, .090" free bore, .295" neck. One has a 1-8.5 Krieger and the other a 1-8 Bartlein. I'm a huge Lapua whore but, I run Nosler Brass in my 260's as it simply out performed the rest...........even Lapua
Nate,
As far as barrel goes, the medium Palma is almost the equal to the rem varmint. That’s a great contour in the AI Chassis, not too light or too heavy. Either a 1-8 or 1-8.5 will be money. Krieger or Bartlein is the only way to go.
Stocks, McMillan or Manners, nuff said.
Your receiver, have it trued (the right way) and replace the recoil lug with a custom .250" thick surface ground recoil lug (no, they're not all the same and not all are flat) Purchase a 20 moa rail and a badger style bolt knob, that’s it.
Chambers, this is where you need to choose carefully and put a little thought into what your going to shoot. If lapua brass is in your future the good people at JGS have a 260 Lapua print / Reamer that I had worked up. Basically, it's the same as my other 260 reamers with the exception of a larger neck diameter.
If you plan on running the 139 scenars (possibly the best 260 bullet on the market) then .080" to .090" free bore is perfect. This will allow you some wiggle room in an AI magazine and be -.005 from the lands. If you plan on shooting VLD's in a standard, un-modified AI magazine be prepared to shorten the free bore to approx. .050" to .060" in order to be in the lands and mag feed.
H4350 is the ticket, 41.5 to 42.0 grains with a CCIBR2 primer is a tack driving load.
I own 2-260's and have built numerous others. I run 139 Scenars in one with AI magazines and 140 Berger VLD's in the other with AW magazines. Both rifles were chambered with the same reamer, .090" free bore, .295" neck. One has a 1-8.5 Krieger and the other a 1-8 Bartlein. I'm a huge Lapua whore but, I run Nosler Brass in my 260's as it simply out performed the rest...........even Lapua
Re: Help with a 260 rem build
Accuracy Intl stock, AICS, weighs right at 6lbs.
#17 palma contour barrel of 26" will weigh about 6.5lbs
"Great Glass" Scope and HD badger rings, rail will weigh almost 3.5lbs.
Action, steel floorplate assy, & mag box etc weighs about 3lbs
H-S Precision Tactical stock w/adj length of pull weighs 3.25lb. Standard PSS type w/o adj lop weighs about 3lbs
McMillan HTG w/varmint contour & pillars, no fill, weighs about 2lbs
McMillan HTG and light varmint barrel contour, w/flutes will be your lightest option. 24" barrel should put your rifle finished weight at about 9.25 lbs.
If you buy a scope with sufficient elevation, might not need a moa-gain base. Leupold mark 4 scopes like 4.5-14 and 6.5-20 are relatively light, at about 1.5lb. Your entire rig could weigh-in at under 12lbs if you choose components carefully.
Accuracy Intl stock, AICS, weighs right at 6lbs.
#17 palma contour barrel of 26" will weigh about 6.5lbs
"Great Glass" Scope and HD badger rings, rail will weigh almost 3.5lbs.
Action, steel floorplate assy, & mag box etc weighs about 3lbs
H-S Precision Tactical stock w/adj length of pull weighs 3.25lb. Standard PSS type w/o adj lop weighs about 3lbs
McMillan HTG w/varmint contour & pillars, no fill, weighs about 2lbs
McMillan HTG and light varmint barrel contour, w/flutes will be your lightest option. 24" barrel should put your rifle finished weight at about 9.25 lbs.
If you buy a scope with sufficient elevation, might not need a moa-gain base. Leupold mark 4 scopes like 4.5-14 and 6.5-20 are relatively light, at about 1.5lb. Your entire rig could weigh-in at under 12lbs if you choose components carefully.
Re: Help with a 260 rem build
N8lusk thanks for the info I think I'm going to go with the acis stock but I bookmarked that for future use
JFcomfort thanks for weighing that up Even though it's going to be a bit heavy I going with the acis
Wnroscoe I plan on running the Berger 130vld as of right now and using the tac match 260 reamer but that could change. I would like to try to keep it so I don't have to modify the mags. Not sure on brass FCS has been helping me out alot and I might go with lapua 243 brass resized but I'll check out the nosler brass thanks for the info
Bignada thanks for all the weigh info. I was trying to keep it light but my desire to have it the way I want it has taken lead on the build lol. As soon as my check clears I'll have a us optics 3.2-17x sn-3 T-pal on the way with Mrp recital , EREK mil elevation knob, US #1 M40 Style 1/10 MIL windage knob. Should I still go with a 20moa base?
N8lusk thanks for the info I think I'm going to go with the acis stock but I bookmarked that for future use
JFcomfort thanks for weighing that up Even though it's going to be a bit heavy I going with the acis
Wnroscoe I plan on running the Berger 130vld as of right now and using the tac match 260 reamer but that could change. I would like to try to keep it so I don't have to modify the mags. Not sure on brass FCS has been helping me out alot and I might go with lapua 243 brass resized but I'll check out the nosler brass thanks for the info
Bignada thanks for all the weigh info. I was trying to keep it light but my desire to have it the way I want it has taken lead on the build lol. As soon as my check clears I'll have a us optics 3.2-17x sn-3 T-pal on the way with Mrp recital , EREK mil elevation knob, US #1 M40 Style 1/10 MIL windage knob. Should I still go with a 20moa base?
