• Win an RIX Storm S3 Thermal Imaging Scope!

    To enter, all you need to do is add an image of yourself at the range below! Subscribers get more entries, check out the plans below for a better chance of winning!

    Join the contest Subscribe

Help with depriming .308 & .223 military brass

Re: Help with depriming .308 & .223 military brass

You are sure that it is "Boxer" primed ,right?

To check,...look down into the case the, Boxer has one flash hole..berdan primed has two offset smaller flash holes and for all practical purposes is not easily reloaded.

On the other hand,if it is Boxer primed... what brand brass is it?
 
Re: Help with depriming .308 & .223 military brass

If it is in fact "boxer" primed, I favor a Lee hand punch and base for hard to deprime brass. Either swage or cut the primer pocket to remove the crimp before trying to reprime.

Good luck.
 
Re: Help with depriming .308 & .223 military brass

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: former naval person</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If one hole, get a Lee universal deprimer die. If two holes...I'd put them in the "two holer" . JMHO </div></div>Agreed. a ten dollar Lee decapping die works great.
 
Re: Help with depriming .308 & .223 military brass

What brand of brass is it?

Look for offset flash holes.

Lee decapping dies are great, but the unbreakable decapping pin, is, believe it or not, VERY breakable. I should know, I have broken a bunch of them. I usually call Lee and get 6 or so sent at a time so I can just switch them out.

So far, I think I have tried about every decapper die out there and its still the best there is, breakable or not.

John
 
Re: Help with depriming .308 & .223 military brass

Guatemalan 223/5.56*45 has 0.060 sized flash holes instead of the more normal 0.075 flash holes. I had to lap my decapping pin down from 0.075 to 0.055 in my lathe to get them decapped.

Never heard of undersized 308 flash holes--however there are Berdan primed cases in 308 (South African,...)

Another issue is the crimp. Here you need firm steady LIGHT pressure on the lever to move the primer from the case without overstressing the pin. After being deprimed, this crimp must be removed before the next primer is inserted. Many swage the crimp out, I cut them out with a sharpened exacto knife.
 
Re: Help with depriming .308 & .223 military brass

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: hill billy</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I don't think a primer pocket uniformer's going to remove the crimp for you, though. </div></div>
I guess I should've called it a primer pocket "reamer". Anyway, it's this product and it certainly didn't have any trouble removing the crimps from mine: http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=253550
 
Re: Help with depriming .308 & .223 military brass

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: NativeCraft</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: hill billy</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I don't think a primer pocket uniformer's going to remove the crimp for you, though. </div></div>
I guess I should've called it a primer pocket "reamer". Anyway, it's this product and it certainly didn't have any trouble removing the crimps from mine: http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=253550 </div></div>It's cool, it's just that a reamer and a uniformer do different things.
laugh.gif