HMR cheek riser

[hukset402]

I did a search on this and didn't see anything so here we go.

Has anyone modified their cheek riser to get the bolt out with put dropping it?

Or do you just mark it so you can get it put back where it goes. Or am I just ignorant and missing somthing here....

Thanks in advance.

 

[SonicBurlap]

Get yourself a set of #7 Plumbers O-rings adjust them to the right height for your B14's cheek riser, they don't slide unless you push on the losened cheekpiece with force and it slides right back in to the desired height after it was removed for cleaning. While you're out getting stuff for that B14 cheek riser go ahead and get yourself a Wiebad stock minipad for the Bergara B14 HMR, it's made with moleskin and feels better than the naked cheek riser. Just my two cents worth and what I did to mine.

 

[hukset402]

Thank you. Didn't even think about o rings. I was contemplating taking the riser to the belt sander...but making it easier to put back would be the better option.

 

[Rocketmandb]

Recently I found the joy of using set-screw shaft collars on one of the riser posts. They cost about 3 bucks and can be easily adjusted with an allen wrench. I use the Loggerhead risers and they have 3/8" posts. Others I've used have had 5/16" posts. Measure and find one of these that fits:

 

[SonicBurlap]

I looked at set screw collars but O-rings cost a couple of cents, you don't need multiples, and you don't need another Allen wrench, and you don't have more tiny screws that can come loose and get lost. One trip to the hardware store and you can get several packs of O-rings for the price of the set screw collars, and I'm still using the same set of O-rings on my HMR after three years now.

 

[Rocketmandb]

I looked at set screw collars but O-rings cost a couple of cents, you don't need multiples, and you don't need another Allen wrench, and you don't have more tiny screws that can come loose and get lost. One trip to the hardware store and you can get several packs of O-rings for the price of the set screw collars, and I'm still using the same set of O-rings on my HMR after three years now.

On price: If you're worried about $3 per multi-thousand dollar rifle...
On tiny screws getting loose/lost: Doesn't happen. Shaft collars are made for... well... shafts... used in industrial applications where things are in constant motion. They are set and forget and don't come loose.
On another allen wrench: An allen wrench set is part of my range toolkit - should be a part of everyone's. Not an issue. Besides, as mentioned, they are set and forget.
On o-rings moving: If you can put an o-ring in a detent, then great - it won't move. I have to raise my cheek riser above where the detents are. O-rings definitively would not work for me as there is nothing to stop them from moving along the post.

 

[SonicBurlap]

On price: If you're worried about $3 per multi-thousand dollar rifle...
On tiny screws getting loose/lost: Doesn't happen. Shaft collars are made for... well... shafts... used in industrial applications where things are in constant motion. They are set and forget and don't come loose.
On another allen wrench: An allen wrench set is part of my range toolkit - should be a part of everyone's. Not an issue. Besides, as mentioned, they are set and forget.
On o-rings moving: If you can put an o-ring in a detent, then great - it won't move. I have to raise my cheek riser above where the detents are. O-rings definitively would not work for me as there is nothing to stop them from moving along the post.

O.K. I get it you like your solution, I like mine. Has nothing to do with "being cheap" just with liking a simple method better that happens to be cheaper and readily available in comparison to set screw collars. While I also carry an Allen wrench set I don't enjoy more screws if not necessary. If you are pushing your O-rings when you re-insert the riser then the O-rings aren't tight enough, my set of #7 O-rings isn't located on a detent either and haven't moved in three years, I just let them slide in and tighten the riser set screw. Also, I didn't like the fact that I would have had to use Blackout, or something else to make the shiny collars blend in. I'm not going to tell you to change your set up, not attacking you personally, nor your style, just letting the OP know that there is a simple, efficient, readily available, and cheap solution.

 

[spife7980]

I just take the tip of a match bullet and scribe a little line around the base of the posts so I can return it to that spot. It’s pretty easy and leaves a nice little scribed copper line.

 

[Rocketmandb]

Also, I didn't like the fact that I would have had to use Blackout, or something else to make the shiny collars blend in.

I bought black ones.

 

[Mini 762]

Bringing back an old thread, I just finished cutting mine out tonight to get the bolt out without removing the riser. I also used an e clip and some delrin I had on hand (that was magically the exact size I needed) cut and sanded down to make it level. With the rings and base I have I needed more length on the legs for the risers because every few shots it would work loose. I happened to have some Subaru valve cover bolts on hand that were the perfect OD and thread size. (once I cut the head off and took a little length off the threads.) Aside from some finish work on the cut out, it works perfectly now.