Homemade Adjustable Cheek Rest

ken226

Major Hide Member
Full Member
Minuteman
Sep 16, 2009
1,390
2,325
48
Washington
So, i decided id like to try an adjustable type cheek rest.

Everyone thinks they are a necessity, to the point that many non-adjustable stocks end up any number of items taped/glued to the stock to get some extra height. I decided that perhaps it was time to see for myself if its worth the effort or not.

I hate the look of the loggerhead style adjustable stocks and wanted to avoid the weight of all the associated hardware. The saddle style aren't quite as ugly (to me), but have the same drawbacks as the loggerhead style. both of the aforementioned types need to be either lowered or removed to get a cleaning rod into the bore, and then readjusted after cleaning. That likely isn't difficult using reference marks or simple measuring tools, but i wanted something that avoids this issue, and is fairly unique.

The type of cheekrests that screw onto the stock from the top, using spacers, are extremely light weight, but typically must be removed completely to get a cleaning rod into the bore. Also, the exposed screw heads are kinda ugly.

Myself and @Skookum got together and came up with some ideas to try and avoid the minor annoyances inherent to the common designs on the market. We decided we wanted a design that could be removed without tools for cleaning in the field, That repeats exactly to its adjusted height when reinstalled without needing witness marks or measuring tools, has no exposed screw heads or knobs, and weighs as little as possible.

Heres the end result:

I turned some aluminum bushings, and pressed neodymium magnets into one end:





Then Drilled into my my Manners stock and epoxied the bushings in place:


Next I solid modeled the cheek piece design we came up with, in CAD. Its intended to be cut out of a sheet of 1/8" aluminum plate using a CNC mill, then folding using a brake. The final rest:




Adjustability will be via two steel socket head screws threaded into the bottom of the pillars. The screws are dabbed with locktight, then threaded in or out to your desired height. Once set, it will retain that setting until you decide to change it. When the screws are threaded all the way into the pillars, the cheek-rest sits directly on top of the stock. There's about a 1" range of adjustment, because i used 1" long screws.



Then a flat model, so i could generate code for the actual CNC cut:


Next, we loaded the plate into the mill and made the cuts and used a press brake to create the folds. The pillars in the cheek-rest were turned on a lathe, threaded for adjustment screws, then pressed into the cheekrest, fixtured to maintain alignment and tig welded in place from the top. The welds were then machined flat.

Cerakoted in Mil Spec OD Green:





The finished product:

The cheek-rest simply slides into the stock via the 2 aluminum bushings. The neodymium magnets in the bottom of the bushings grab the screw heads and hold the cheekrest in place. Its quick to remove or install, and always goes back to the same adjusted height. The whole thing ended up weighing 4.6 oz.




Unfortulately, im not an artist. My camo job kinda sucks. The green and black seem to match up ok, but the tan is way off.








So, my final takeway:

It feels great. A much better cheek weld, and easier, quicker re-positioning of the eye, in the scopes eyebox. I didn't know what i was missing all these years by avoiding the adjustable stocks.
Yea, theres definitely a reason to get and adjustable cheek rest.
 
Last edited:
what a great idea..i love the idea of using neodymium magnets. very ingenious.

So far, that's the best part of this adjustable cheek rest. I don't have to change the foam cutout in my hardcase. I can pop the cheek rest off in a couple seconds and put it in the hardcase seperately. I can put it back on the rifle just as quick, and keep the same height setting. The 2 magnets hold surprisingly tight.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 338dude and K80/6.5
One of my rifles has those "ugly screw heads" visible from the top...now I'm going to steal your idea on the next stock.

And yes, one knows not what he is missing until he has a cheek rest.

Yea, the word "ugly" may have been a little strong. I saw a Manners carbon fiber version that made the black oxide button screw heads look pretty good. I copied a little bit of the shape of mine from that Manners.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 338dude
So, i decided id like to try an adjustable type cheek rest.

Everyone thinks they are a necessity, to the point that many non-adjustable stocks end up any number of items taped/glued to the stock to get some extra height. I decided that perhaps it was time to see for myself if its worth the effort or not.

I hate the look of the loggerhead style adjustable stocks and wanted to avoid the weight of all the associated hardware. The saddle style aren't quite as ugly (to me), but have the same drawbacks as the loggerhead style. both of the aforementioned types need to be either lowered or removed to get a cleaning rod into the bore, and then readjusted after cleaning. That likely isn't difficult using reference marks or simple measuring tools, but i wanted something that avoids this issue, and is fairly unique.

The type of cheekrests that screw onto the stock from the top, using spacers, are extremely light weight, but typically must be removed completely to get a cleaning rod into the bore. Also, the exposed screw heads are kinda ugly.

Myself and @Skookum got together and came up with some ideas to try and avoid the minor annoyances inherent to the common designs on the market. We decided we wanted a design that could be removed without tools for cleaning in the field, That repeats exactly to its adjusted height when reinstalled without needing witness marks or measuring tools, has no exposed screw heads or knobs, and weighs as little as possible.

Heres the end result:

I turned some aluminum bushings, and pressed neodymium magnets into one end:





Then Drilled into my my Manners stock and epoxied the bushings in place:


Next I solid modeled the cheek piece design we came up with, in CAD. Its intended to be cut out of a sheet of 1/8" aluminum plate using a CNC mill, then folding using a brake. The final rest:




Adjustability will be via two steel socket head screws threaded into the bottom of the pillars. The screws are dabbed with locktight, then threaded in or out to your desired height. Once set, it will retain that setting until you decide to change it. When the screws are threaded all the way into the pillars, the cheek-rest sits directly on top of the stock. There's about a 1" range of adjustment, because i used 1" long screws.



Then a flat model, so i could generate code for the actual CNC cut:


Next, we loaded the plate into the mill and made the cuts and used a press brake to create the folds. The pillars in the cheek-rest were turned on a lathe, threaded for adjustment screws, then pressed into the cheekrest, fixtured to maintain alignment and tig welded in place from the top. The welds were then machined flat.

Cerakoted in Mil Spec OD Green:





The finished product:

The cheek-rest simply slides into the stock via the 2 aluminum bushings. The neodymium magnets in the bottom of the bushings grab the screw heads and hold the cheekrest in place. Its quick to remove or install, and always goes back to the same adjusted height. The whole thing ended up weighing 4.6 oz.




Unfortulately, im not an artist. My camo job kinda sucks. The green and black seem to match up ok, but the tan is way off.








So, my final takeway:

It feels great. A much better cheek weld, and easier, quicker re-positioning of the eye, in the scopes eyebox. I didn't know what i was missing all these years by avoiding the adjustable stocks.
Yea, theres definitely a reason to get and adjustable cheek rest.
I completely disagree with your earlier statement I believe you are an artist your camo job matches up fairly well and your design is ingenious you need to patent that and start production as soon as possible awesome job
 
  • Like
Reactions: ken226
Thank you for the kind words.

I have since made a couple adjustments. Mostly I just made another cheek rest, a little lower profile, with a better clearance for the rear flush cup and a better camo cerakote match.

I had to mix some desert sand cerakote with earth brown to get a match to the manners tan.

I don't have any pics yet. I'll post a couple this afternoon.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 338dude
Looks great love the magnet idea!

I did the 3M 10# velcro and some Kydex.

IMG_3090.jpg
IMG_3091.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: ken226
So where do I send my check for one of these?

As much as I'd love to make some of these in kit form to sale, I just recently let all my business licenses/ FFL / state firearms license lapse.

Here in WA, the state government is making gun related stuff harder and harder to do legally. But, your more than welcome to copy and make your own.
 
  • Like
Reactions: LooseGoose
Nice job. I used closed cell foam and tape with a Triad Tac stock pack and it works great but not nearly as professional as this (y)
 
The Kydex type adjustable cheek rest can be set up and adjusted; then marked with a watermark even with the fastener height.

Simply drill snug diameter holes in the cheek rest about 1/2" forward on the waterline. Set the rest up with the bolts through the holes, and the identical height is always quick to reinstall. You can still use the slots so other shooters to find their proper height too.

You could put the holes behind the slots, too; but that could leave the cheek rest far enough forward to interfere with bolt action manipulation.

In pad my rests with craft foam, which comes in thicknesses ranging from 2mm to 10mm. If what you want doesn't have self-stick, craft tape adhesive can help.

Greg
 
Last edited:
I got an opportunity to put it through its paces last week..

I took this gun, a 6.5 Creed, Benchmark barrelled FN SPR with a brand new US Optics FDN17x scope, out to Modern Day Snipers 2 day wind clinic. We had 90°+ temps, 10 - 20 mph gusty winds both days, and lots of mirage.

The scope performed like a champ, and the cheekrest made the scope easier to use.
 
That is amazing wow. I've got a CZ 457 ProVarmint my gosh the comb height is hilarious it drops so much. I've been fighting it with some foam build up, but I may ditch the stock for something with adjustability like my Bergara that thing fits me like a glove. Great work wish I had your skills!
 
Last edited:
Was trying to figure out a better version of that manners version you mention with the exposed screw heads, you did it for me.
Will be copying.
Thanks
 
  • Like
Reactions: ken226
@Mike Casselton is an effing genius maybe he will post a few pics of what he did to my CZ 457 stock to remedy said issues....it fits like a glove after a bit of trimming down. Just awesome. He took a Magpul shotgun plastic cheek piece and trimmed it to the right height for me and used stainless screws.....can't wait to shoot it next week. It will take 20 seconds to remove for cleaning.....getting a paint job at the moment.
20201116_131057_1605550288074.jpg
 
Thanks 8pointer, if by prep you mean milled the flats, sprayed it with brake clean, then shot it with rustoleum brown ultra flat camo paint, then yes, I prepped the hell out of it.
It's close to the color of my razor, but not quite. Eventually I'll sand blast and cerakote it but for now rustoleum will do.
 
Thanks 8pointer, if by prep you mean milled the flats, sprayed it with brake clean, then shot it with rustoleum brown ultra flat camo paint, then yes, I prepped the hell out of it.
It's close to the color of my razor, but not quite. Eventually I'll sand blast and cerakote it but for now rustoleum will do.
Ha yes that's the prep I was hoping for! Nice to see the paint is staying on looks great!
 
  • Like
Reactions: GordonsGarage
Does anyone have any "real" data on groups shot with a wood laminate vs composite stock? I'm really curious if you make a laminate stock rigid enough and seal it with BLO and poly, shouldn't it keep it's properties no matter the weather?

I like making things, so it's not about just buying something to save myself some time. I have a composite stock for my r700. It shoots fine. I did do some mods to it like others in this thread, I added an adjustable cheek riser, adjustable buttplate, a more bag riding friendly bottom on the bottom of the butt. So after all those mods, I thought, I would really like to to just build one from scratch with all the things I want in it. So I did. For now it is just pine. This is just my "test" stock. The next step will be black cherry (5 x .38" thick slabs laminated together with opposing grain, etc, etc.) Anyway, thought I would share. I know I'll be opening up myself to trolls, but I'm hoping there will be some experts out there that might give me some "good" critiquing so that I can incorporate any good ideas or better ideas into my cad drawings before I cut my black cherry wood.

Here's the link to my process. Mind you, I'm on my third test stock. Version 3 was spot on. Got all my gcode created and am happy with the features.
The Link To Pictures and Videos

Feel free to poke holes, just try to give me constructive criticism. Remember, I like to make things, so the old "just go buy one" isn't the question here.

Thanks
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Sean the Nailer
Does anyone have any "real" data on groups shot with a wood laminate vs composite stock? I'm really curious if you make a laminate stock rigid enough and seal it with BLO and poly, shouldn't it keep it's properties no matter the weather?

I like making things, so it's not about just buying something to save myself some time. I have a composite stock for my r700. It shoots fine. I did do some mods to it like others in this thread, I added an adjustable cheek riser, adjustable buttplate, a more bag riding friendly bottom on the bottom of the butt. So after all those mods, I thought, I would really like to to just build one from scratch with all the things I want in it. So I did. For now it is just pine. This is just my "test" stock. The next step will be black cherry (5 x .38" thick slabs laminated together with opposing grain, etc, etc.) Anyway, thought I would share. I know I'll be opening up myself to trolls, but I'm hoping there will be some experts out there that might give me some "good" critiquing so that I can incorporate any good ideas or better ideas into my cad drawings before I cut my black cherry wood.

Here's the link to my process. Mind you, I'm on my third test stock. Version 3 was spot on. Got all my gcode created and am happy with the features.
The Link To Pictures and Videos

Feel free to poke holes, just try to give me constructive criticism. Remember, I like to make things, so the old "just go buy one" isn't the question here.

Thanks
Looks like a kitchen table with clear stain lol. Not being a jerk by any means though that’s a cool project wish I had toys and abilities to do something like that.