How important is it to bed the base on a rem 700

[ryu_sekai]

I bought a Remington 700 aac sd and a Seekins base. How important is it to bed the base. Is it necessary?

ETA:I tightened the front to screws and did not see light in the rear. I tried to slide a piece of paper in the rear between base and rail and it would not fit.

 

[goodmanfj]

Yes if its not right it will bow your rail and mess with the scope, Go to youtube and ck for Remington scope base bedding , a lot of info and very easy to do . If you spent the money on the Seekins might as well do it right , It may not need it but it will show how to ck for that

 

[Trigger Monkey]

I've had to bed Seekins and Badger Ordnance bases to receivers just like I did a $40 Weaver base. It's been my experience that a more expensive base does not negate the need for bedding it to the receiver since Remington receivers can vary more than the bases do. The best way to test it is to tighten the two front base screws and see if there is a gap at the rear, if there's a gap, bed it.

 

[ryu_sekai]

I tightened the front to screws and did not see light in the rear. I tried to slide a piece of paper in the rear between base and rail and it would not fit.

 

[goodmanfj]

Test both sides , look for light under them. don't torque them down hard , snug will do.

 

[6brshooter]

Goodman nailed it, both sides need to be checked on a remington. Round receivers aren't as bad, but with the two different bridge heights of rem things can be out of whack. If it is so tight that paper won't slide under it then there might be a gap under the front when just the rear screws only are installed.

 

[6brshooter]

I should add that savage suffered from this when they had a flat rear/round front. I haven't came across this problem in any of the newer all round savages, especially since they switched to cnc'd receivers. I have never had to bed a remington receiver either, so ymmv.

 

[ryu_sekai]

If paper doesn't fit on either side I'm OK then?

OK I checked front and back. Snugged it can't fit any in front. Rear I can fit maybe 2 mm

 

[mydogsmonkey]

When i checked mine, i realized a normal piece of paper wouldn't fit. That's about .004" i believe but a receipt would fit which is a thinner paper, about .002". im guessing about a .003 gap in mine, this was an ai ae, i needed anyway. I would use something over than normal paper to measure as a normal peeve of paper is thick

 

[ryu_sekai]

Did you bed it?

 

[mydogsmonkey]

And by receipt paper i mean that thin thermal paper from grocery stores

 

[mydogsmonkey]

Yes i bedded it, i didn't want to take any chances with a uso scope, its very easy to do, just make sure to use a good amount of release agent

 

[mydogsmonkey]

I'm not an engineer or anything but i would assume any gap even .003 would cause the Scope base to flex causing the whole set up not to be straight

 

[TRAAV]

I bed them all without release agent

 

[ryu_sekai]

One more question. What if the the receipt paper only goes in partially and doesn't go all the way through? Like maybe 2-3 mm from the rear?

 

[stmcelroy]

One more question. What if the the receipt paper only goes in partially and doesn't go all the way through? Like maybe 2-3 mm from the rear?

You could probably get away without bedding with no issues, but it really is worth the $10 and 30 minutes of your time.

 

[mydogsmonkey]

just guessing again here but if the game is under a screw hole, i would assume it would torque the rail at least a bit in some way, remember that is the receipt paper is sliding freely, that the gap is larger than .002"

 

[300sniper]

I'm not an engineer or anything but i would assume any gap even .003 would cause the Scope base to flex causing the whole set up not to be straight

And if during the machining process, the base "pulled" out of square when it was removed from the fixture? Maybe in order for the base to be straight, it needs to flex against the receiver. Just something to think about. Before I bedded anything, I'd make sure what I was bedding was in fact square to begin with.

 

[DoctorBen]

Given that bedding it is such a simple process, I'd just say do it. Plug up what you don't want to get JB weld in, coat with release agent if it's your thing (I honestly can't remember what or if I used), bed it, torque it.
I have no way to measure exactly how much tolerance I have before and after, but things seem to stay torqued down where I put them, and I've got something which has performed consistently better than MOA out to 1000yds.