How much built in moa is to much ?

[Floridaman]

I have a 20 moa base (5.8 mils). In either going to get the spuhr with 9 mils built in (4901) or the one with 6 mils built in the (4601)

The scope is a Athlon Ares etr with 32 mils of elevation adjustment.

So would 14.8 mils built in be to much ? I couldn't find anything on here or google.

 

[CNC-Dude]

I can affect how close up you can zero your scope. For instance, you may be at the bottom of your adjustment and only have holdover marks to shoot at 100 yards.

 

[CShooter92]

What caliber and rifle are you shooting and what's your desired distance to shoot?

 

[Floridaman]

Its a 338 lapua, I would like to have it setup so i can reach out till the bullet goes transonic.

I haven't done any load development or charts yet but, I'm guessing it'll be around 1600-1700 yard's.

If im gonna spend the money I might as well have it setup to use the full range of the scope and firearm. even if its a flop and the range is difficult for me to reliably hit at.

 

[Gtummy]

I have seen write ups from some of the guys pushing way out and at least one has 60 mils built in before scope adjustment.

 

[Memberberries]

It's only too much if you can't shoot the closest thing you want to shoot.

Also if you have an assembled rig and know where you want your zero, you can just check your travel to figure out how much more you can add in.

 

[Newbie2020]

Hijack: will adding moa (40 moa?) improve image quality / clarity at longer range by moving the image closer to the center of the adjustment range?

 

[Memberberries]

Hijack: will adding moa (40 moa?) improve image quality / clarity at longer range by moving the image closer to the center of the adjustment range?

Yes, Optics work best in the middle of their adjustment range. That said, most people don't spend enough time behind glass to notice on good glass.

I shoot about 3 times a week and my home range doesn't go far enough for me to realize any difference optically when dialed to the middle or the end of the travel on my cronus, vudu, or S&B unless the sun has already set and I'm chasing those last minutes of light.

 

[Slides]

My scope only has 17.5 MIL elevation, on 20MOA base I can still wind down 7.5 below zero, you scope has near twice the adjustment range of mine, I wouldn't go less than 40MOA, and as image at distance is more important you could go 60MOA with that scope to get better image quality at distance where you need it and still be able to zero at 100 without bottoming out your scope elevation. Rails are generally a lot cheaper than bases but if you want a level adding a Spuhr with 20 or 30 in it on top of what you have might work well. Otherwise just chuck a 50 or 60 MOA base on it.

 

[sinister]

You should generally use a slant base to ensure your reticle is centered in the tube at the maximum range you're going to be shooting (to gain maximum left-right windage correction from scope bore center and get the clearest image from the tube and lens center).

Excessive downward cant means at your shorter zeroing range (depending on your scope's internals and whether or not your base screws are parallel to the bore) you run the risk of your erector tube hitting the inside wall of your scope tube, preventing you from getting proper windage correction before binding on the inside.

If you don't click your corrections (elevation and windage) because you're using some sort of Christmas tree reticle then you won't / may not need any slope correction. Determine that by figuring out what your near-range zero looks like and if you're close to the edge of your scope field of view and getting some distortion from the lens curvature edges.

 

[Slides]

You generally need very little windage adjustment at closer ranges unless there is something peculiar with you base or rings.