I'm sure someone has done a post on this I just can't find on on what I need. Anyways, I built a 6.5 creedmoor prs rifle with a bartlien barrel but the load components I'm using are Alpha ammunition srp brass, win 41 primers, 6.5 staball, and 140 gr eldm. I have a 1-8 barrel I've seen load data similar but nothing of this combination. Any positive advise would be helpful thank you.
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How to get to max velocity with unknown data
- Thread starter docjames1033
- Start date
Not to throw you under the bus or anything, but this answer is literally in the first page, or first section of every single reloading manual out there.
Honestly, I thought it was like the ocw or ladder test. Lol ok now I feel dumb I've been reloading for years and just haven't read the front since I started. I mean I know to start low and work your way up I just wanted to know if there was a way to see when you got to max pressure or velocity without blowing your face off as a famous person I heard once say. Lol
Starting low and working up IS the easy way.
Understanding Pressure :: Primal Rights, Inc
Reading pressure is a required skill that all shooters must have. Whether you are shooting factory ammunition or your own handloads, you absolutely must be able to detect and interpret pressure signs on your fired brass.
www.primalrights.com
One word
DONT
only your rifle and your components are going to tell you what will or wont work. Start low and work up as others have said.
PS If you blow your face off you REALLY fucked up!
DONT
only your rifle and your components are going to tell you what will or wont work. Start low and work up as others have said.
PS If you blow your face off you REALLY fucked up!
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To be fair: there are software programs (quickload, gordons reloading tool) that will estimate stuff but to get actual good data out of it you sort of already have to know where you are and have good measurements and trim up their parameters to match what happens in your rifle so in either case its sort of a horse before the cart situation.
I find hodgdon is pretty darn good about what they post and I dont find much reason to deviate from it when using their powders. Alpha is a little thicker so grain for grain it will trend a little higher pressure https://www.hodgdonreloading.com/reloading-data-center
I find hodgdon is pretty darn good about what they post and I dont find much reason to deviate from it when using their powders. Alpha is a little thicker so grain for grain it will trend a little higher pressure https://www.hodgdonreloading.com/reloading-data-center
That sounds great. I saw the load data on their site wite 6.5 staball but it was for the Amax but and then the A-frame (I believe) bullet. I think I read that the Amax and Eldm are similar in but construction should I follow that and just watch for pressure signs then? Otherwise I was going to just load by .2 grains until pressure signs appear but I also thought that might be the dangerous way to go about it too. Also I know I take all advise with a grain of salt because I know every rifle is different.
Hodgdon shows 140 A-Max in an 8 twist barrel with Hornady case, Fed 210's, and Sta-Ball 6.5 from 40 to 44 gr.
'bout all you can do is start at 40 gr and work your way up carefully.
Mike
'bout all you can do is start at 40 gr and work your way up carefully.
Mike
That's what I was thinking of. Set my coal .020 off the lands and start at 41 gr and go .3 until I get to max or hit a pressure sign.
Thank you everyone for your advise I'll get some loaded up and post my results as soon as I can get to the range. The weather suppose to rain most of this week in Texas but I'll try to shoot between the rain drops. Lol
a wet case will show pressure sooner and depending where you are is a good test of how 'match safe' your load is
just load 1 of each charge and get velocity for each charge as well
then pick a safe speed (2700-2800 assuming 26" with 140s) and let em fly
Max velocity does not equal max accuracy.
Don’t go there.
Or…. Fill case to the brim with Bullseye and I guarantee some serious velocity for that first shot!
Sirhr
Ps. Do not do that. The above part about Bullseye is satire. Never do that. Ever. If you do that, it’s not our fault. Not that you will be around to blame us because you will be dead. You may be anyway if you load to Max supposed velocities with unknown data. Just ‘sayin.
Don’t go there.
Or…. Fill case to the brim with Bullseye and I guarantee some serious velocity for that first shot!
Sirhr
Ps. Do not do that. The above part about Bullseye is satire. Never do that. Ever. If you do that, it’s not our fault. Not that you will be around to blame us because you will be dead. You may be anyway if you load to Max supposed velocities with unknown data. Just ‘sayin.
Gordon's Reloading Tool. Its free to download and most powder and bullets are in there. You'll need to take a bunch of measurements and have a seating depth in mind. Plug it all in and you can at least know where its safe to start and stop with your combination - especially if you want to rule out slower charges. Should always start low and work up to max.
Lol yes that's what I was implying in my other text I know all the advice on here is just what others have done and my miles may vary and don't load black powder to the top and fire away because vary bad things will happen. That's why I have heard you could hit extreme pressure load without showing signs of say blown or flattened primers or firing pin cratering. Also I know my limitations as a reloading and I never go above saami specs though I know other reloaders have the experience and do with no problems. Ultimately I'm looking for accuracy and not so much velocity anyways so 2700 to 2800 if it's in my range would be fine with me if I can make very small groups with it.
Every combination of action/barrel, chamber, components will yield different results. Your rifle is different than every other one and as a result will show pressure at a different point. Start low and work up to establish your safe charge. Keep in mind also that until you get a couple hundred rounds down range there will be slight changes in all that data as well
Just a quick comment on GRT. It’s a great tool and I use it, but it’s only really accurate when you calibrate it to your muzzle velocity. If I was working on a new load/bullet/powder/caliber or whatever I would model the load then take my laptop to the range. You could calibrate it to your first few shots and get an estimate of where you will be over pressure.
As far as Staball and 140s, I used it for several years. I have moved to 142s and H4350. But I shot some of my older bullets 2 weeks ago over a chrono and was getting 2830 or so with 44.0 and a 140 match burner in 1X fired Starline brass.
As far as Staball and 140s, I used it for several years. I have moved to 142s and H4350. But I shot some of my older bullets 2 weeks ago over a chrono and was getting 2830 or so with 44.0 and a 140 match burner in 1X fired Starline brass.
Are your velocities higher than maximal book velocities for that cartridge with that weight bullet? That's the first clue.
But, to provide some pushback to "you're going to blow yourself up!" - first I will say, you don't want to go kaboom! But you're not going to go kaboom unless you're a real moron if you're using the usual powders for a cartridge/bullet combination. You will have obvious pressure signs (stuck case, can't open bolt, etc) long before you go kaboom. Look at Orkan's video of H110 filled to overflow in a 338 LM case with a DT rifle. No kaboom, just an irreparably destroyed bolt. Kabooms are more often caused by squib loads, or that moron from KY with the 50 BMG shooting sabots with a brake. There is no substitute for common sense when shooting.
Which takes us back to most of the comments - start comfortably below stuck case, heavy bolt lift, ejector marks, blown pockets, stop when you get there, and then back off significantly, so that differences in case volume, temperature, powder humidity, seating depth, etc, have enough "buffer room" to keep you safe. I think it's folly to be running a "max load" under pretty much any conditions, because when conditions change, so does your safety buffer.
But, to provide some pushback to "you're going to blow yourself up!" - first I will say, you don't want to go kaboom! But you're not going to go kaboom unless you're a real moron if you're using the usual powders for a cartridge/bullet combination. You will have obvious pressure signs (stuck case, can't open bolt, etc) long before you go kaboom. Look at Orkan's video of H110 filled to overflow in a 338 LM case with a DT rifle. No kaboom, just an irreparably destroyed bolt. Kabooms are more often caused by squib loads, or that moron from KY with the 50 BMG shooting sabots with a brake. There is no substitute for common sense when shooting.
Which takes us back to most of the comments - start comfortably below stuck case, heavy bolt lift, ejector marks, blown pockets, stop when you get there, and then back off significantly, so that differences in case volume, temperature, powder humidity, seating depth, etc, have enough "buffer room" to keep you safe. I think it's folly to be running a "max load" under pretty much any conditions, because when conditions change, so does your safety buffer.
41 is a good start. I use 42.7 in a Starline case and 43.5 in a Hornady case. Sooo I’m thinking 41.5-42 in an Alpha case cuz it’s heavier. I’m getting 2730ish FPS in a 24” Bartlein.
