I have a new M40, and i need to know how to break-in the barrel. its a new rifle, and i want to do it right. if you can help....thanks.
-
Having trouble using the site?
Contact support
How-To on Breaking in a Barrel.
- Thread starter drkilldeers
- Start date
Re: How-To on Breaking in a Barrel.
Here you go. Don't miss a step or you will totally ruin your barrel
<object width="425" height="350"> <param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/TRRahHX9Zkg"></param> <param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param> <embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/TRRahHX9Zkg" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"> </embed></object>
Here you go. Don't miss a step or you will totally ruin your barrel
<object width="425" height="350"> <param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/TRRahHX9Zkg"></param> <param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param> <embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/TRRahHX9Zkg" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"> </embed></object>
Re: How-To on Breaking in a Barrel.
sage ED advice
my next barrel is going to be a cow barrel though.....
sage ED advice
my next barrel is going to be a cow barrel though.....
Re: How-To on Breaking in a Barrel.
You did ask after all. A search would have saved you this, BUUUUUUUUUUTTTTTTTT......
A good number of guys on here don't clean barrals unless absolutely necessary. In other words GO OUT AND SHOOT.
You did ask after all. A search would have saved you this, BUUUUUUUUUUTTTTTTTT......
A good number of guys on here don't clean barrals unless absolutely necessary. In other words GO OUT AND SHOOT.
Re: How-To on Breaking in a Barrel.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: drkilldeers</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have a new M40, and i need to know how to break-in the barrel. its a new rifle, and i want to do it right. if you can help....thanks. </div></div>
Welcome to the Hide Drkilldeers. First, please don't use upper case letters, it's hard to read, and not to mention, violates the rules here. Second, this topic has been discussed on more than a few occasions. If you do the search, you will see that most of folks here don't believe in break in your barrel. In fact, I have never broken in any of my barrels and they all shoot very well. Personally, I think it's BS. So my adivice to you is just go out there and shoot. If you want to wast time, money and everthing else, then follow the instructions that most reputable barrel makers will print on their websites.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: drkilldeers</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have a new M40, and i need to know how to break-in the barrel. its a new rifle, and i want to do it right. if you can help....thanks. </div></div>
Welcome to the Hide Drkilldeers. First, please don't use upper case letters, it's hard to read, and not to mention, violates the rules here. Second, this topic has been discussed on more than a few occasions. If you do the search, you will see that most of folks here don't believe in break in your barrel. In fact, I have never broken in any of my barrels and they all shoot very well. Personally, I think it's BS. So my adivice to you is just go out there and shoot. If you want to wast time, money and everthing else, then follow the instructions that most reputable barrel makers will print on their websites.
Re: How-To on Breaking in a Barrel.
<span style="text-decoration: line-through">Shoot one, then clean, for ten. Shoot five, then clean, for 10, or 30; your choice. Done. If you're gonna do it, this isn't a bad way.
Most critical, never put a cleaning rod down a bore without also employing an <span style="font-style: italic">effective</span> rod guide. In ineffective rod guide allows too much clearance between the rod and the end of the guide; an effective one has minimal slop. Excess slop negates the value of the guide, because it allows lateral rod movement, which equates to cleaning rod bore wear.
Patches can be driven with a jag or, as I prefer, a slotted tip. I use a slotted tip, and prefer one that has an extra long narrow section. This permits more patch. More patch means more solvent in, and more solvent out. It actually does make the job go quicker and better. A tight patch may have value, may not. Personally, I think it wrings the solvent out of the patch, and may defeat its purpose.
IMHO, the only value a brush has is to spread solvent more evenly in the harder to reach crevices, like the bottoms of the lands. As a mechanical means of removing fouling, I think they're ineffective; it's the solvent, and time, which do just about all the real work.
IMHO a nylon brush is at least as effective as a bronze brush for spreading the solvent. Stainless brushes are not advisable. Many think this because they believe they will cause bore damage, and they could be right. My thinking is that like bronze brushes, they're not really all that effective.
If solvent won't remove stubborn fouling that a <span style="font-style: italic">borescope</span> reveals, then maybe an abrasive cleaner, like Remclean or JB Compound is in order. I would advise against such in a premium barrel. For example, such a practice would void any warranty on my L-W barrels, and they own borescopes and will catch you if you fib.
I am not one of the no-clean clan. It is precisely because such practices can lead to glazed on fouling which must be addressed with abrasives that I advocate periodic cleaning, generally no less often than each 100 rounds. That's a personal opinion, others exist. IMHO, far better never to put the bore in jeopardy of needing abrasives.
For cleaning, I prefer the bore foams, and I use Outer's. They <span style="font-style: italic">work</span>.
I always follow up with a thoroughly spread coat of oil in the bore. I patch out most of it just before resuming firing. I try never to fire a bullet down an ultra squeaky clean dry bore. A smidge of oil, please.</span>
Edited because I'm just another one of "those idiots" you shouldn't be listening to...
Greg
<span style="text-decoration: line-through">Shoot one, then clean, for ten. Shoot five, then clean, for 10, or 30; your choice. Done. If you're gonna do it, this isn't a bad way.
Most critical, never put a cleaning rod down a bore without also employing an <span style="font-style: italic">effective</span> rod guide. In ineffective rod guide allows too much clearance between the rod and the end of the guide; an effective one has minimal slop. Excess slop negates the value of the guide, because it allows lateral rod movement, which equates to cleaning rod bore wear.
Patches can be driven with a jag or, as I prefer, a slotted tip. I use a slotted tip, and prefer one that has an extra long narrow section. This permits more patch. More patch means more solvent in, and more solvent out. It actually does make the job go quicker and better. A tight patch may have value, may not. Personally, I think it wrings the solvent out of the patch, and may defeat its purpose.
IMHO, the only value a brush has is to spread solvent more evenly in the harder to reach crevices, like the bottoms of the lands. As a mechanical means of removing fouling, I think they're ineffective; it's the solvent, and time, which do just about all the real work.
IMHO a nylon brush is at least as effective as a bronze brush for spreading the solvent. Stainless brushes are not advisable. Many think this because they believe they will cause bore damage, and they could be right. My thinking is that like bronze brushes, they're not really all that effective.
If solvent won't remove stubborn fouling that a <span style="font-style: italic">borescope</span> reveals, then maybe an abrasive cleaner, like Remclean or JB Compound is in order. I would advise against such in a premium barrel. For example, such a practice would void any warranty on my L-W barrels, and they own borescopes and will catch you if you fib.
I am not one of the no-clean clan. It is precisely because such practices can lead to glazed on fouling which must be addressed with abrasives that I advocate periodic cleaning, generally no less often than each 100 rounds. That's a personal opinion, others exist. IMHO, far better never to put the bore in jeopardy of needing abrasives.
For cleaning, I prefer the bore foams, and I use Outer's. They <span style="font-style: italic">work</span>.
I always follow up with a thoroughly spread coat of oil in the bore. I patch out most of it just before resuming firing. I try never to fire a bullet down an ultra squeaky clean dry bore. A smidge of oil, please.</span>
Edited because I'm just another one of "those idiots" you shouldn't be listening to...
Greg
Re: How-To on Breaking in a Barrel.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Bowman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">My personal favorite
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f_LvPjreNjg </div></div>
my preferd bake in prcedur
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Bowman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">My personal favorite
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f_LvPjreNjg </div></div>
my preferd bake in prcedur
Re: How-To on Breaking in a Barrel.
I just shoot them now too, just keep the temp on the tube down.
CJG
I just shoot them now too, just keep the temp on the tube down.
CJG
Re: How-To on Breaking in a Barrel.
Don't break it in. don't listen to these idiots telling you to break it in. Every Krieger barrel I have ever had always shoots .250 to .300 100yd groups. One of my earlier .308's had well over 8k rounds with no break in and still held 1/2moa. Please read this well written article by one of the WORLDS FOREMOST BARREL MAKERS (now dead) about the bogus barrel break in.
http://www.6mmbr.com/GailMcMbreakin.html
Pass this on to everyone you know to stop this nonsens. Ignorance and lack of knowlege is like a disease. I use to believe the barrel break in crap years ago from a benchrest guy, funny how all my barrels always are way more accurate than I am capable of and none were broken in.
Don't break it in. don't listen to these idiots telling you to break it in. Every Krieger barrel I have ever had always shoots .250 to .300 100yd groups. One of my earlier .308's had well over 8k rounds with no break in and still held 1/2moa. Please read this well written article by one of the WORLDS FOREMOST BARREL MAKERS (now dead) about the bogus barrel break in.
http://www.6mmbr.com/GailMcMbreakin.html
Pass this on to everyone you know to stop this nonsens. Ignorance and lack of knowlege is like a disease. I use to believe the barrel break in crap years ago from a benchrest guy, funny how all my barrels always are way more accurate than I am capable of and none were broken in.
Re: How-To on Breaking in a Barrel.
Thanks for the help guys. I mounted optics on my 5R and had held off on shooting today due to concerns on the "break-in". The Mechanic's method had me on the floor. So thanks for the laughs and the info...I've blown the morning being wound up about nothing and wish I would have just gone to the range! I knew something was up when Remington couldn't provide me with break-in guidelines. Just go shooting, makes sence.
Thanks for the help guys. I mounted optics on my 5R and had held off on shooting today due to concerns on the "break-in". The Mechanic's method had me on the floor. So thanks for the laughs and the info...I've blown the morning being wound up about nothing and wish I would have just gone to the range! I knew something was up when Remington couldn't provide me with break-in guidelines. Just go shooting, makes sence.
Re: How-To on Breaking in a Barrel.
Fire one round, clean the barrel. Repeat x 20.
But as most have already mentioned, "breaking-in" a barrel does little to nothing good.
Fire one round, clean the barrel. Repeat x 20.
But as most have already mentioned, "breaking-in" a barrel does little to nothing good.
Re: How-To on Breaking in a Barrel.
I dont' see anything wrong with it. It helps it cleans faster when done correctly. My uneducated guess would be that there is then more consistency in the barrel and that can't hurt.
I dont' see anything wrong with it. It helps it cleans faster when done correctly. My uneducated guess would be that there is then more consistency in the barrel and that can't hurt.
Re: How-To on Breaking in a Barrel.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Greg Langelius *</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Edited because I'm just another one of "those idiots" you shouldn't be listening to...
Greg </div></div>
I'm sick of the stupidity and idiotic opinions on the subject which ignore the difference between factory and custom barrels. A few guys with CUSTOM barrels say it's a waste of time (true on most custom barrels), this filters down so every fashion conscious moron from that point on has decided NO barrel EVER needs it. Which is simply not true. It stuns me there are so many people not capable of thinking through a subject or who prefer to be ignorant/incorrect and in fashion. I still do some sort of process on every barrel just so I know how it cleans, feels and if it's smooth. Part of knowing your equipment.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Greg Langelius *</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Edited because I'm just another one of "those idiots" you shouldn't be listening to...
Greg </div></div>
I'm sick of the stupidity and idiotic opinions on the subject which ignore the difference between factory and custom barrels. A few guys with CUSTOM barrels say it's a waste of time (true on most custom barrels), this filters down so every fashion conscious moron from that point on has decided NO barrel EVER needs it. Which is simply not true. It stuns me there are so many people not capable of thinking through a subject or who prefer to be ignorant/incorrect and in fashion. I still do some sort of process on every barrel just so I know how it cleans, feels and if it's smooth. Part of knowing your equipment.
Re: How-To on Breaking in a Barrel.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: my191145</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Don't break it in. don't listen to these idiots telling you to break it in. Every Krieger barrel I have ever had always shoots .250 to .300 100yd groups. One of my earlier .308's had well over 8k rounds with no break in and still held 1/2moa. Please read this well written article by one of the WORLDS FOREMOST BARREL MAKERS (now dead) about the bogus barrel break in.
<span style="color: #FF0000">Listen, it's quite simple. CUSTOM barrels are ALREADY done. "Break in" is a reasonably idiot proof "lapping", in many cases with a factory barrel you end up better for it. If you think there is no need, why have your custom barrels been done by the MFR? </span>
http://www.6mmbr.com/GailMcMbreakin.html
<span style="color: #FF0000">"..a very large number would do more harm than good." do you understand what is being said?
"..and I will tell you all that I see far more barrels ruined by cleaning rods than I see worn out from normal wear and tear." An example is idiots not using a bore guide.
Yet he lapped barrels
Custom should not need it. Factory often do. It's bloody simple to understand, the reasons why and what it is doing. I always like to check and know the "feel" of my barrels. Even on a custom barrel I run a few shoot/clean so I can do this. Not because I gain anything on them but because it is another way I can check my equipment.
I have a hard time thinking that article is anything other than a rant about an issue that built up over time. It's not informative and I can't understand how he would not have understood the claimed process for breaking in, since he lapped....</span>
Pass this on to everyone you know to stop this nonsens.
<span style="color: #FF0000">If you only understood.....</span>
Ignorance and lack of knowlege is like a disease.
<span style="color: #FF0000">Spot on and I hope we can help you and the others who don't UNDERSTAND the subject, can't SEE what is being said. There are three opinions, Nothing is needed. This puts the focus on custom barrels and ignores the points about lapping. Second, every barrels needs XX process or it's going to die. Morons who have no clue. AND those who say what we are saying. Custom should not need it. Factory is likely to need something. You FEEL when it's come "on" when cleaning it and stop at that point. Just like lapping.
Wake up
</span>
I use to believe the barrel break in crap years ago from a benchrest guy, funny how all my barrels always are way more accurate than I am capable of and none were broken in. </div></div>
Were you one of the fixed process morons? did you use a bore guide?
UNDERSTAND what is said and make an informed choice. If you decide you have nothing to gain from knowing your equipment better, that's fine. Just don't rant and rave about something you don't understand
FYI, calling people idiots then showing how ignorant you are on the subject just makes you look like a fool
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: my191145</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Don't break it in. don't listen to these idiots telling you to break it in. Every Krieger barrel I have ever had always shoots .250 to .300 100yd groups. One of my earlier .308's had well over 8k rounds with no break in and still held 1/2moa. Please read this well written article by one of the WORLDS FOREMOST BARREL MAKERS (now dead) about the bogus barrel break in.
<span style="color: #FF0000">Listen, it's quite simple. CUSTOM barrels are ALREADY done. "Break in" is a reasonably idiot proof "lapping", in many cases with a factory barrel you end up better for it. If you think there is no need, why have your custom barrels been done by the MFR? </span>
http://www.6mmbr.com/GailMcMbreakin.html
<span style="color: #FF0000">"..a very large number would do more harm than good." do you understand what is being said?
"..and I will tell you all that I see far more barrels ruined by cleaning rods than I see worn out from normal wear and tear." An example is idiots not using a bore guide.
Yet he lapped barrels
I have a hard time thinking that article is anything other than a rant about an issue that built up over time. It's not informative and I can't understand how he would not have understood the claimed process for breaking in, since he lapped....</span>
Pass this on to everyone you know to stop this nonsens.
<span style="color: #FF0000">If you only understood.....</span>
Ignorance and lack of knowlege is like a disease.
<span style="color: #FF0000">Spot on and I hope we can help you and the others who don't UNDERSTAND the subject, can't SEE what is being said. There are three opinions, Nothing is needed. This puts the focus on custom barrels and ignores the points about lapping. Second, every barrels needs XX process or it's going to die. Morons who have no clue. AND those who say what we are saying. Custom should not need it. Factory is likely to need something. You FEEL when it's come "on" when cleaning it and stop at that point. Just like lapping.
Wake up
I use to believe the barrel break in crap years ago from a benchrest guy, funny how all my barrels always are way more accurate than I am capable of and none were broken in. </div></div>
Were you one of the fixed process morons? did you use a bore guide?
UNDERSTAND what is said and make an informed choice. If you decide you have nothing to gain from knowing your equipment better, that's fine. Just don't rant and rave about something you don't understand
FYI, calling people idiots then showing how ignorant you are on the subject just makes you look like a fool
Re: How-To on Breaking in a Barrel.
Well I use a bore guide and a coated rod. Absolutely agree with letting the rifle tell you when it is good.
My Rock barrel obviously (to me anyway, I should have elaborated) was like 10 shots and good while the savage .223 barrel took a lot more and (70 shots to where it would clean quick) and it didn't settle in until between 200-220 shots then it really dialed in. There is a big difference. I would never run Tubbs Final Finish or the like through a custom barrel, but looking at the savage or a factory barrel there might be something to it. If it didn't work I would rechamber/recrown it or more likely just throw a new rock barrel on it
Great job on compiling some different info there for all to see AUJohn.
Well I use a bore guide and a coated rod. Absolutely agree with letting the rifle tell you when it is good.
My Rock barrel obviously (to me anyway, I should have elaborated) was like 10 shots and good while the savage .223 barrel took a lot more and (70 shots to where it would clean quick) and it didn't settle in until between 200-220 shots then it really dialed in. There is a big difference. I would never run Tubbs Final Finish or the like through a custom barrel, but looking at the savage or a factory barrel there might be something to it. If it didn't work I would rechamber/recrown it or more likely just throw a new rock barrel on it
Great job on compiling some different info there for all to see AUJohn.
Re: How-To on Breaking in a Barrel.
I think there is something to breaking in barrels, not so much to debur or smooth out the barrel but more to lay down even layers of copper fouling to avoid cold bore shot velocity variation.
Take it for what it's worth but basically I just use a carbon cleaner and don't strip any copper after every shot for the 1st 5-shots and then after that you pretty much good to go until accuracy drops. But if you want you can strip the barrel of carbon only after every 5-shot for the next 30 shots and then after that every 20 shots for 100, but the 1st five to 10 shots are the most important to lay down even lays of copper fouling.
Try an experiment with stripping your barrel clean of copper and carbon fouling, and shoot a 10-shot group without cleaning between shots. Records your hit locations by number. Then strip the barrel clean again, repeat a few times and see if you have a cold bore shift. Most rifles I've shot have a cold/clean bore shift, sometimes minimal, but most settle in and group better after 1 to 3 shots. That is how I picked 5-shot break-in as above. After you have even copper fouling without carbon then velocity stays more consistent.
You can repeat the experiment with cleaning carbon and copper between each shot, cleaning just carbon etc in any combination, and see your results. It is very tedious but I've done it to an extent but one of my friends did it in tedious detail and trust me there is a difference.
There are some velocity variations with clean bore to copper and/or carbon fouled. The most consistency occurs with copper fouled but carbon cleaned barrels. After that you won't get a cold bore shift, but may get some shift with a very hot barrel depending on your barrel contour.
I think there is something to breaking in barrels, not so much to debur or smooth out the barrel but more to lay down even layers of copper fouling to avoid cold bore shot velocity variation.
Take it for what it's worth but basically I just use a carbon cleaner and don't strip any copper after every shot for the 1st 5-shots and then after that you pretty much good to go until accuracy drops. But if you want you can strip the barrel of carbon only after every 5-shot for the next 30 shots and then after that every 20 shots for 100, but the 1st five to 10 shots are the most important to lay down even lays of copper fouling.
Try an experiment with stripping your barrel clean of copper and carbon fouling, and shoot a 10-shot group without cleaning between shots. Records your hit locations by number. Then strip the barrel clean again, repeat a few times and see if you have a cold bore shift. Most rifles I've shot have a cold/clean bore shift, sometimes minimal, but most settle in and group better after 1 to 3 shots. That is how I picked 5-shot break-in as above. After you have even copper fouling without carbon then velocity stays more consistent.
You can repeat the experiment with cleaning carbon and copper between each shot, cleaning just carbon etc in any combination, and see your results. It is very tedious but I've done it to an extent but one of my friends did it in tedious detail and trust me there is a difference.
There are some velocity variations with clean bore to copper and/or carbon fouled. The most consistency occurs with copper fouled but carbon cleaned barrels. After that you won't get a cold bore shift, but may get some shift with a very hot barrel depending on your barrel contour.
Re: How-To on Breaking in a Barrel.
Im still wondering if anyone would throw their rifle on the ground to hear the harmonics because of this video.
Listen to the serious, Your investment is at stake.
Im still wondering if anyone would throw their rifle on the ground to hear the harmonics because of this video.
Listen to the serious, Your investment is at stake.
Re: How-To on Breaking in a Barrel.
been through about 20 precision rifles in my time as a shooter, and hundreds of other firearms. i used to meticulously break in everything. Nowadays i just shoot them and clean once accuracy degrades or i break down and shoot crappy am due to budget lol. 500-600 rounds usually between good cleanings, then 20 or so fouler shots before I trust the zero again. I honestly cant say that i have ever noticed a difference in accuracy one way or another. But they were all individual rifles so who knows whether it would have been "better" had i done it. Not I. But i am fairly certain that this discussion is like reloading arguments. to some people, if you dont do everything possible, its not correct. Others make it "good enough" and go bang. Up to you to decide which you are. GL
been through about 20 precision rifles in my time as a shooter, and hundreds of other firearms. i used to meticulously break in everything. Nowadays i just shoot them and clean once accuracy degrades or i break down and shoot crappy am due to budget lol. 500-600 rounds usually between good cleanings, then 20 or so fouler shots before I trust the zero again. I honestly cant say that i have ever noticed a difference in accuracy one way or another. But they were all individual rifles so who knows whether it would have been "better" had i done it. Not I. But i am fairly certain that this discussion is like reloading arguments. to some people, if you dont do everything possible, its not correct. Others make it "good enough" and go bang. Up to you to decide which you are. GL
Re: How-To on Breaking in a Barrel.
Really?!! Resurrecting a Thread from 2010 without Larry being here to comment on it?! You should be ashamed...
Anyway,
If you need 20+ fouling shots after a cleaning, and it's not a 22LR and you're not shooting Moly, then your barrel is toast.
Which brings-up the only issue of importance in these kinds of Threads: Why would one break in a factory barrel [and, in ther alternative, why would one break in a custom barrel?] If you isolate the purpose of the break-in you will arrive at the answer you seek.
Everything else is simply opinion about whether I do it, or you do it, or he does it too.
Really?!! Resurrecting a Thread from 2010 without Larry being here to comment on it?! You should be ashamed...
Anyway,
If you need 20+ fouling shots after a cleaning, and it's not a 22LR and you're not shooting Moly, then your barrel is toast.
Which brings-up the only issue of importance in these kinds of Threads: Why would one break in a factory barrel [and, in ther alternative, why would one break in a custom barrel?] If you isolate the purpose of the break-in you will arrive at the answer you seek.
Everything else is simply opinion about whether I do it, or you do it, or he does it too.
Re: How-To on Breaking in a Barrel.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Graham</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Really?!! Resurrecting a Thread from 2010 without Larry being here to comment on it?! You should be ashamed...
Anyway,
If you need 20+ fouling shots after a cleaning, and it's not a 22LR and you're not shooting Moly, then your barrel is toast.
Everything else is simply opinion about whether I do it, or you do it, or he does it too.</div></div>
lol, didn't say i needed to do it, said i did it. we all do things we may not need to do but our mojo feels better when we do.. I just "feel" better. Completely subjective. usually after 3rd round or so they settle from a dry bore. But i like dirty barrel.
And of course this is all opinion...
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Graham</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Really?!! Resurrecting a Thread from 2010 without Larry being here to comment on it?! You should be ashamed...
Anyway,
If you need 20+ fouling shots after a cleaning, and it's not a 22LR and you're not shooting Moly, then your barrel is toast.
Everything else is simply opinion about whether I do it, or you do it, or he does it too.</div></div>
lol, didn't say i needed to do it, said i did it. we all do things we may not need to do but our mojo feels better when we do.. I just "feel" better. Completely subjective. usually after 3rd round or so they settle from a dry bore. But i like dirty barrel.
And of course this is all opinion...
Re: How-To on Breaking in a Barrel.
I agree that on a good custom rifle that you just take it out and shoot as the barrel is already lapped. On a factory gun, i do normally break in the barrel with the shoot 1 and clean method. Wether it helps or not, honestly i have no idea. If it makes you more comfortable and more confident in your shooting or investment, then do it. I would say that not being confident in your weapon plays a lot in the accuracy department. So if you think that you will be more confident in your weapon because you have done it, then just do it. Again, i am no expert, and i dont do it myself on a good barrel. But to each his/her own.
I agree that on a good custom rifle that you just take it out and shoot as the barrel is already lapped. On a factory gun, i do normally break in the barrel with the shoot 1 and clean method. Wether it helps or not, honestly i have no idea. If it makes you more comfortable and more confident in your shooting or investment, then do it. I would say that not being confident in your weapon plays a lot in the accuracy department. So if you think that you will be more confident in your weapon because you have done it, then just do it. Again, i am no expert, and i dont do it myself on a good barrel. But to each his/her own.
Re: How-To on Breaking in a Barrel.
i say get you some hand soap and a lot of qtips. Push them all down there at one time and then find something like an old hickory stick to shove em through. Maybe hit it with some Dubya D when you are done. Rock and Roll
i say get you some hand soap and a lot of qtips. Push them all down there at one time and then find something like an old hickory stick to shove em through. Maybe hit it with some Dubya D when you are done. Rock and Roll
