Had base on receiver for several years. Put blue LOCTITE under it to seal. Worked as intended - no rust under base. Now, how do I remove the LOCTITE?
Gunsmithing HOW TO REMOVE BLUE LOCTITE
- Thread starter oldfatguy
- Start date
Use a decent solvent like white gas or acetone... Let it soak then scrape with a non metallic scraper or plastic scrunge pad.
I tried that a few months ago changing scope bases. Good luck, same result as yours except I pulled some coating of a Savage action. Blended in some flat black paint for now.
There was an argument in an article many years ago about scratches and such. Field damage is allowable, damage in the home is not. Neither is desirable.
There was an argument in an article many years ago about scratches and such. Field damage is allowable, damage in the home is not. Neither is desirable.
Methylene chloride. Aircraft stripper at auto paint stores. Let it soak and use plastic razors to remove. Nitrile gloves will be your friend.
Again, acetone should work, but soaking may be required.
Again, acetone should work, but soaking may be required.
warm to hot water seems to work for me pretty good but saw someone else's suggestion a soldering iron and though it a better idea more pin point heating . blue has worked so far for almost over a year on my glasses screws before using loctite they come loose ever other week after wards not once in well almost a year .
2nd this . If you don't have one then go to Harbor freight $15 , and if you look through there coupons you can get it down to $10-12 bucks.
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Loctite 768 X-NMS is their solvent for cyanoacrylate based adhesives. According to the MSDS the approximate makeup of it is ~80% nitromethane and ~10% toluene, so that would be a good starting point for a homebrew equivalent.
I've used it before and it does work very well on cyanoacrylate based adhesive residue as well as thread locker residue.
Nitromethane is the primary ingredient in most CA-debonders sold at local hobby shops, and those are typically substantially cheaper than the Loctite X-NMS.
Acetone works well on threadlocker residue too (but requires soaking), as does methylene chloride.
I haven't found a single "magic" solution yet for removing loctite residue in one pass, it's usually a process of an initial solvent soaking to soften it, followed by mechanical means (plastic scraper) and often some help from a heat gun.
Agreed on Tuluene and Nitromethane.....but those are nasty permanently-fuckup-your-organs chemicals....of all the options above, scraping is probably the least damaging to you and, if you do it slowly and carefully, might not even fuck up the finish on your action.
The standard way to remove loctite is solvent to soften the plastic (loctite is plastic) and then brush to remove the softened loctite from the threads. It shouldn't be that big a deal TBH. Brush material of bristles -- SS, brass, Plastic etc-- varies in the tradeoff between speed and damage potential to underlying surface. Be careful of fragile surface coating/finihses vs bare metal, etc.
How to use the acetone and nonmetallic scraper mentioned above:
Make a tape dam around the area with locktite. Fill the dam with dry ice and allow to sit for ten minutes. Hose the dry ice down with the acetone. Count to ten and dump it on the floor. Use the nonmetallic scraping device to remove the now disbonded locktite.
Make a tape dam around the area with locktite. Fill the dam with dry ice and allow to sit for ten minutes. Hose the dry ice down with the acetone. Count to ten and dump it on the floor. Use the nonmetallic scraping device to remove the now disbonded locktite.
Xylene is a little bit safer to use than toluene. We had to replace toluene and 1,2-ethylbenzene in a lot of formulations. Make sure the use of solvent is done in a well ventilated area.
Straight edge razor blade. Unless the receiver has raised burs, the loctite will shave away with very little remaining.
