Hey guys I bought a second hand choate sniper stock as a budget platform for my 700 but it came dipped in camo. I myself think camo dipped guns look cheap and I personally don't like it. I plan on duracoating the stock in the future but was wondering how I can remove the dip now. I've used a boatload of acetone but it is an insane amount of work for very little progress. Should I just rough up the paint with sandpaper and duracoat over it? Any help is appreciated!
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Gunsmithing How to remove hydro dip?
- Thread starter Deercannon
- Start date
Media blast removal would be my guess since its a polymer base for the stock material and heavy paint strippers may make a mess of it.
You might give them a call as some graphics are sealed with a clear coat. If Clear coated, they could have used a bunch of different products.
I would give them a call
https://www.riflestock.com/contact_choate.html
... or treat the stock like any other surface, prep it and paint it. scotchbrite automotive pads to roughen the surface, MEK to de-grease, dry and paint.
I am not a fan of rattle can as it melts with too many cleaners.... I would suggest that you skip the rattle can step and go directly to a better product-
You already mentioned duracote
Alumnahyde 2- by brownells
Ceracote
Norrell Molly Resin
As always, prep is what makes for a lasting job and a pretty job.
If you don't prep before rattle can, then you get to do a lot more work when you go to prep for a permanent product.
If you want to stay on a lower budget, then consider 2K Clear coat to go over rattle can. It's an automotive clear with 2 part hardener in a spray can.
I think they sell it in matte finish. This will resist a lot of solvents that will eat rattle can finishes
I would give them a call
https://www.riflestock.com/contact_choate.html
... or treat the stock like any other surface, prep it and paint it. scotchbrite automotive pads to roughen the surface, MEK to de-grease, dry and paint.
I am not a fan of rattle can as it melts with too many cleaners.... I would suggest that you skip the rattle can step and go directly to a better product-
You already mentioned duracote
Alumnahyde 2- by brownells
Ceracote
Norrell Molly Resin
As always, prep is what makes for a lasting job and a pretty job.
If you don't prep before rattle can, then you get to do a lot more work when you go to prep for a permanent product.
If you want to stay on a lower budget, then consider 2K Clear coat to go over rattle can. It's an automotive clear with 2 part hardener in a spray can.
I think they sell it in matte finish. This will resist a lot of solvents that will eat rattle can finishes
Brake cleaner will remove it but that requires soaking. I doubt that would be good for the stock. I would suggest the same as XLR308 and do a test blast. Lower your pressure to 40 psi and see if you can remove it without getting into the meat of the stock. If not then you're likely looking at sanding.
Hydrographics is always Clear coated, your only two options are to beadblast the finish off ( best bet... Typically the best media is 100 grit aluminum oxide) this will not hurt the integrity of the stock and bring it back to the natural finish, perfect for duracote. Or second option is to sand the existing finish real good with something like 320 grit sand paper. Just make sure you clean and degrease the stock real good before sanding or bead blasting.
I realize this is an older thread, but I'm curious as to your results? I'm looking at a used shotgun barrel for a good price but the camo isn't going to work for me either. Not too enthusiastic about bead blasting it, but I do have the means. I have a can of matt black aluma-hyde.
I was surprised to see this thread bumped.
I have a buddy that does hydrographics and Cerakote. If it was poorly applied, and/or no clear coat (we would use ceramic clear), aircraft stripper would probably eat it off; after a scuff up with something like scotch-brite.
Otherwise, light abrasive sand/bead blasting. It should be applied over a base coat, so you have a little depth there to work with.
I have 1 Glock, in particular, that has been hydro-dipped twice, and painted countless times. Obviously it's easiest knowing your coating, and your coating guy
Factory Mossberg 930 barrel.
I dip too, I've done a few guns, but never removed any. Strongly considering just ponying up for a new barrel and avoid opening a can of worms on this one.
The guy has my 930 right now for a Cerakote job. I got anxious and rattle blasted it
and he gave me some shit for it. It's like 4 layers of rattle can, actually 
. He's going to sandblast the whole thing. What barrel? Mine is the shorter one with the breacher brake. Wish it was the 18-20" though, I think
my old 1100 was longer; has its ups and downs, but I miss the length sometimesSimilar threads
