How to remove varnish/lacquer from stock hardware?

Bantam1

Gunny Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
  • Nov 18, 2008
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    USA
    I have a British Lend Lease Garand that I am trying to figure out how to remove the lacquer from the parkerized metal parts on the stock. The old guy I bought it from years ago had sanded the cartouche off the side of the stock and then coated it all in lacquer. I removed it from the wood but have not been able to figure out how to cleanly remove it from the metal parts. The finish is original and these are the older milled parts.

    Example of the crap on the metal. There are a few small spots like this on the butt plate and receiver. Clearly the guy didn't feel the need to remove these parts before he slathered it in gloss.
    LLG1.jpg


    I used water based Jasco to remove it from the wood, then applied the BLO to bring it back. I just can't figure out how to get it off the metal without damaging it. The park is damn near perfect aside from the stupid rack numbers they etched and stamped on many parts. It's a true numbers matching with all the correct early parts for the time. I'm just trying to get it cleaned up a little more. The scratched rack numbers kinda suck but it's appropriate for the time period and what the rifle did. The chamber and muzzle measured 0 and 1. It was barely fired in it's past. The stock is the original based on the channel cut from what I read. I did lightly remove the sanding marks the first guy left when he removed the cartouches on the side. The P is still on the grip.

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    I have some at home I can try. I just don't know if it will affect the finish. I might test it on some enbloc clips I have first. Those are park'd I think.
     
    I have a British Lend Lease Garand
    Neat rifle, can you show us a picture of the right windage knob? Just curious to see the old flush nut sights...
    Good lucking removing the varnish. I would try to keep it off the wood handguard if possible, maybe apply with cotton Q-tips?
     
    I'll dig it back out of the safe this weekend and get some more pics. It has the original narrow front sight and gas cylinder with the single slot plug. He had changed it to the updated front sight and gas tube assembly with the Phillips type plug. I guess they held the black coating better? I got all the parts with it. Still had the original cleaning kit in the canvas bag in the stock. No oil bottle or bayonet. It did have a leather 1903 type cling but it's rough. Lots of green on the brass parts and the leather is very dark. I removed it and did what I could to clean it up but it still looks like crap.

    I wasn't aware that it was a LL rifle when I bought it. A guy stopped me walking out of the local gun show and asked if I wanted to sell it. He mentioned the rear sight and low serial number. He ripped it apart and checked all the the numbers in his little Garand numbers book and determined all the numbers were correct for the time and serial number range. Then he checked the muzzle and throat wear and about fell over because it basically measured 0 and 1. "This thing is basically a new rifle" is what he said haha. He told me he thought it was a LL rifle and asked for my phone number. He said he would research it and give me a call. A few days later he offered me $2500 and a shooter grade rifle for it. I told him no thanks but thanks for the info.

    Here are some more pics from when I had it out the other day to document all the numbered parts. I don't know Garands well. I wanted one, scored this one and now rarely shoot it because of the supposed higher value. It shoots well for being 81 years old. I think I have maybe 80 rounds through it since I bought it.
     

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    • Like
    Reactions: Modoc and lash
    Are there any other products beside Formby's? It appears they were bought by Minwax and the Furniture Restorer product must be discontinued. Any place that seems to have it was $100+ The Minwax brand has terrible reviews with most saying it's not the same as the Formby's.
     
    is it varnish over parkerizing?

    any reason why mineral spirts wouldnt work? MS shouldnt hurt parkerizing.

    what about dropping the small parts in an ultrasonic cleaner with something non-abrasive like dish soap? dont do aluminum.
     
    Yes its laquer or varnish over the parkerized parts. I haven't tried mineral spirits. I have some 99% rubbing alcohol. I just figured someone might know an easy trick or solution to strip it quickly and not affect the parkerize finish under it.
     
    I did a little test with 99% alcohol and q-tips. It worked well so I was able to remove most of it from the parkerized parts. I need to get a better brush for some of the rougher surfaces like the floor plate sides. It took it right off the stock metal bands and butt plate sides. I was surprised it worked so well.
     
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    Reactions: Baron23
    I have a British Lend Lease Garand that I am trying to figure out how to remove the lacquer from the parkerized metal parts on the stock. The old guy I bought it from years ago had sanded the cartouche off the side of the stock and then coated it all in lacquer. I removed it from the wood but have not been able to figure out how to cleanly remove it from the metal parts. The finish is original and these are the older milled parts.

    Example of the crap on the metal. There are a few small spots like this on the butt plate and receiver. Clearly the guy didn't feel the need to remove these parts before he slathered it in gloss.
    View attachment 8157352

    I used water based Jasco to remove it from the wood, then applied the BLO to bring it back. I just can't figure out how to get it off the metal without damaging it. The park is damn near perfect aside from the stupid rack numbers they etched and stamped on many parts. It's a true numbers matching with all the correct early parts for the time. I'm just trying to get it cleaned up a little more. The scratched rack numbers kinda suck but it's appropriate for the time period and what the rifle did. The chamber and muzzle measured 0 and 1. It was barely fired in it's past. The stock is the original based on the channel cut from what I read. I did lightly remove the sanding marks the first guy left when he removed the cartouches on the side. The P is still on the grip.

    View attachment 8157353
    View attachment 8157354View attachment 8157355View attachment 8157356View attachment 8157357
    I can offer what has worked for me. I use automotive MAF sensor cleaner such as branded by CRC company. The solvents in there are selected to strip organic smut. Takes about three applications then rub with cotton cloth. Once it didn't work, so I boiled the parts in a steel pot with just clean water about 5 minutes (some people suggest aluminum pot to avoid galvanic issues), let cool, did it again and the stuff came off.
     
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