Huber Trigger Set Trigger - Why?

[littlepod]

For those who have a Huber 2-stage trigger, can you tell me why there's this set trigger behavior? I have a 1.6lb Huber 2-stage. From the behavior -

1st Stage to 2nd Stage, .8lb of force.
2nd Stage - Break, 1.6lbs of force.

From a feeling perspective, that means I put about an additional .8lbs of force to break the shot. This feels great, I'm using to about a .8lb break and when I shoot this way I am consistent.

Now, if I engage the trigger, and let off, disengage target, say I was on the wrong one and I switch to the right target. The trigger is now in a "set trigger" mode.

1st Stage now becomes 60% of the original weight. So it's about a .45lb take up.
2nd stage remains the same - Break 1.6lbs of force.

From a feeling perspective, that means I had to exert an additional 1.1-1.2lbs of force for it to break. This throws me off. I sometimes pull, and it doesn't go bang because I didn't pull enough. It seems weird but I'm very used to consistently pulling at that sub 1lb for the shot to go off, but this 1.2lbs of addiitonal force is throwing me off.

What I am curious about is why is there this set trigger mechanic? What function does it serve? If I put the gun on safe, or recycle the bolt, the set trigger mechanic gets reset to the standard 1st stage pull.

Thanks.

 

[308pirate]

Huber isn't a true two stage trigger. I don't know what the fuck he did to design it, but real two stage triggers don't have that problem.

I've owned two stage triggers from Geissele, Anschutz, and Rock River, as well as shooting other people's rifles with CG/Xtreme two stage triggers and not one of them has ever behaved that way.

I recommend you return it for a refund, or sell it if you can't, and buy something else (Xtreme, Tubb)

 

[littlepod]

Huber isn't a true two stage trigger. I don't know what the fuck he did to design it, but real two stage triggers don't have that problem.

I've owned two stage triggers from Geissele, Anschutz, and Rock River, as well as shooting other people's rifles with CG/Xtreme two stage triggers and not one of them has ever behaved that way.

I recommend you return it for a refund, or sell it if you can't, and buy something else (Xtreme, Tubb)

I guess I might look at that Bix&Andy Tac Sport Pro then... but this trigger does have such a nice crisp break, no creep at all. If I could get rid of this weird set trigger thing it'd be perfect.

I could also just configure this to be a .8lb single stage trigger.

 

[Steel head]

Meh
Love mine, if the first stage is lighter on a second pull who cares?
I don’t.

If you want to reset first pull just hit the safety.

 

[littlepod]

Meh
Love mine, if the first stage is lighter on a second pull who cares?
I don’t.

If you want to reset first pull just hit the safety.

The felt amount of pressure is the difference from 2nd Stage minus 1st Stage. So in general I'm looking at .8lbs / 1.6lbs. This means that it only took an additional .8lbs for me to break the shot. I'm used to that. I've trained on what that feels like.

If I'm in the set trigger mode, I'm now looking at .4lbs / 1.6lbs. This means it will take an additional 1.2lbs to break the shot. After shooting thousands of rounds at .8lbs of additional force, my finger will pull .8lbs of additional force, and no shot will break because I need to essentially be pulling 50% harder.

That's the issue I have with the inconsistency. If they made the first stage lighter, make the 2nd stage equally lighter so that the difference between the 2nd and 1st stage is the same, hence a consistent .8lbs of additional force to break the shot always.

 

[Steel head]

The stage that changes is only take up.
The actual break is always the same.
I don’t really care what the total is because it’s the break stage that matters.
My tigger is a 2#
Normally it’s 1 pound 1 ounce take up and 1 pound break.
On a light second pull it’s 9ish ounces and a 1# break.
I honestly never notice it as the break is consistent.

 

[Dthomas3523]

If you like the feel and want to keep the trigger, just push the safety forward.

Should reset the trigger.

 

[littlepod]

If you like the feel and want to keep the trigger, just push the safety forward.

Should reset the trigger.

Yep I've been practicing doing that. It doesn't take much effort to reset the safety/trigger. I guess my main question was why in the world was it designed this way, more about how to get around it. I was wondering what functional purpose it had.

 

[Steel head]

Yep I've been practicing doing that. It doesn't take much effort to reset the safety/trigger. I guess my main question was why in the world was it designed this way, more about how to get around it. I was wondering what functional purpose it had.

Call Huber and ask him.
I still love that trigger and have no thoughts on replacing it.

 

[Dthomas3523]

Call Huber and ask him.
I still love that trigger and have no thoughts on replacing it.

Make sure you have some time on your hands.

 

[Jefe's Dope]

I never noticed it until I read the instructions. Then I went and tested it. If I'm thinking about it, I can tell. I have never noticed under pressure conditions and the break feels consistent to me regardless. I have never felt like the trigger has failed me or caused me to drop a shot. It is different, but it sure does seem to work as advertised. I'd like to try and Bix and Andy or TriggerTech to compare, but I'm not compelled to from a feeling of lacking from the Huber.

 

[hlee]

Make sure you have some time on your hands.

Yeah. Someone posted a “dissertation,” by Huber, on his trigger. It was like that scene out of the second matrix where Neo is talking to the main control computer (the old guy in white)- you know the one, the guy that talked and talked but didn’t say anything. Yeah, that’s how it read. Anyway, as bloviated as the paper was, I decided I didn’t need a Huber trigger. Lots of good 2 stage triggers that actually act as 2 stage triggers.