Re: I got a new safe! Now a humidity question
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RollingThunder51</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Dehumdification in a safe.....
First off, you will need a good (small) digital temp/hygrometer to know what is going on (min/max function.) I couldn't find the tiny one I bought on line for you, but this one is ok.
http://www.focalprice.com/Indoor_Max_Min_Digital_Thermometer_with_Hygrometer_White_HE173W_10335.html
Whatever you do, by watching the actual values, you can get to the truth about humidity in safes. Your target is pretty much anything less than 45% humidity at room temp.
Golden rod = Now think about it a bit. It might have value, but not by itself. It was designed for clothing closets, not safes. Safe come in only two flavors:
Sealed - Here we find that with heat you are putting all the humidity in the safe into suspension, making sure that inside your safe is like a day on the delta. Not Good. For those of you that are about to suggest (like the Goldenrod advert) that it heats up your safe so that moisture stays in suspension..think delta.
Unsealed - Here we find that with heat, the hot air goes out the top (heat rises) and, yep cold moist air from outside comes in the bottom. A perfect cycle of exchanging whatever the humidity is outside your safe back into your safe. Eddy builds the finest ship models in the world, people pay 6 figures for a model of their super yachts. He has been paid to build a $10k case and keep the models in perfect shape...on a ship! Tried Goldenrod...once...nope.
http://www.yachtmodels.com/
So what does one do if they want to keep the contents of a safe perfect for decades?
1. Nothing goes in without being cleaned and dry.
2. Try not to open your safe on monsoon days.
3. No leather, no cloth, nothing porous that can hold moisture goes in. That includes paper (dry paper in a plastic bag).
4. Metal gets properly oiled. Wood gets properly oiled. Leather that has to go in (slings?) get oiled.
5. All actions open if possible.
6. Rechargeable cannisters of desiccant the more the merrier. I use a 300 gram unit, but I couldn't find a link for you. A few years ago you could get the monster big cannisters. I haven't seen them in a while or I'd post a link. Try and avoid the paper box kind (see note).
http://www.desiccantsonline.com/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=323
Your going to recharge them every time they turn the littlest bit pink. After you take them out of the over, let them cool to the touch and then into the vault they go. Why? Well, be cause as they are cooling they are, right! They are pulling cold air in and hot air out the top...just like a Goldenrod. Wet room and a good 20% is lost in the cooling.
Note = Place the cannister 3-4" away from everything metal and on its own plastic plate. Ever see desiccant on metal? Like super salt! I am not a fan of the paper box with the bag desiccant, inside is a bag that is tied with a string. If that stuff gets out...bad news. Also, if you have bought a new (or a used) fireproof safe, they are moisture magnets at first. The material that makes them fireproof absorbs water big time! In fact, many think that putting guns into a fireproof safe is a mistakes as the "steaming" that will follow very high heat (thats how it works) is very destructive for both wood and metal. In any event, you will find it will take a good number of drying cycles to clear a fireproof safe. It can take months. When done your cannister will last a good six months without needing a charge. New fireproof safe = wet safe. Obviosly less of a problem in the desert.
You will be rewarded with no rust for as long as you do your part. </div></div>
Awesome advice RollingThunder!!!
I just put a bunch of Eva-Drys on order! This is the Best safe dehumidifying thread I have ever read and I have searched quite a few times!! The rust monster sucks!! I wish I knew this stuff years ago, especially about the fireproofing holding water...
