Gunsmithing I have this new gun...

[Greg Langelius *]

Two of them, actually. They are Savage 11VT's from Dick's. They come quipped with two-piece scope mounting bases.

I bought a pair of EGW Extended 20MOA Steel Bases, and tried to get the original bases off. They have hex socket head screws, and it's very shallow. I have tried (gingerly) to use a hex key, and it just skips without budging the screw. None of the hex keys in either my English or Metric sets will work. I have gone to great pains to avoid buggering the screw sockets, and I think I've done that part OK, but the screws are just thumbing their noses at me. I haven't tried heat yet.

Is there a better way? I have two sets of very nice Vortex Pic rings I'd like to install, and their cross bolts aren't compatible with the Weaver-style bases.

Greg

 

[Supersubes]

Put a punch just undersize of the hex into the screw head and give it a whack. Straight down in the direction of the screw like driving a nail, then try and loosen it. You could also hit your wrench with a grinder or belt sander to sharpen it up. The used portion tends to round off a bit, which lets it cam out of the screw head. If that doesn't work, try heat.

 

[Greg Langelius *]

OK, good approach, will give it a try. I just didn't want to go charging off into the unknown without any corroboration.

Other approaches?

Greg

 

[Fursniper]

Heatgun, they're locktited in (don't use a flame).

 

[JMGlasgow]

I've heard of using a soldering iron to heat up the screw. Touch the tip to the head of the screw. You could also use a dremel with a small cut off wheel to cut a slot into the screw, then use a flat head screwdriver to remove the screw. You'll damage the scope base, but if you aren't keeping them it shouldn't matter.

 

[padom]

Heat gun

 

[Greg Langelius *]

Will try all in sequence; punch first, heat second, Dremel slot last. I think the Dremel slot is probably best, but it's also more drastic.

If the bases get marked, no biggie, as long as I can get them off. They'll go in the scope mounting bits drawer, just in case...

Much thanks to all who took the time to post.

Greg

 

[J!m]

Soldering iron works well. Then try a torx bit that fits snugly rather than a hexbit. Being shallow doesn’t help.

also, acetone should dissolve the locktite if all else fails. Note it will strip all oil out too so you need to re oil when done.

 

[Greg Langelius *]

Soldering Iron is both economical and simpler. I have many sets of Torx bits.

I also have Acetone, as well as Methylene Chloride solvent, which is what Loctite markets as its cleaner.

BTW, Methylene Chloride Cement is what I used last week to repair the broken plastic (VA supplied) eyeglass frames on the glasses I'm currently wearing as I type. Not perfect, but a lot better than BUSTED! If the weld fractures (and it has, once...) the cement cures overnight and the glasses will sustain gentle usage.

Greg

 

[Rootshot]

I've found that tapping in a Torx bit that is slightly oversize to the stripped hex head bolt swages the hex head to the Torx bit and allows you to remove the stripped bolt.

--Rootshot

 

[Greg Langelius *]

Now that's worth trying if the other methods fail.

Again, thanks to all.

Greg

 

[writtenbytylerkee]

On more than one occasion, I've resorted to drilling with a left hand drill bit. Two things can happen:

1.) The bit gets enough grab that it works the screw loose
2.) You remove the screw head enough to get the base out of the way and use vice grips for the rest

It's not my first choice, but a set of left handed drill bits have saved me hours of time and grief several times. In the future, you might also consider adding a hand impact driver to your toolbox. It won't help once you've stripped a head, but it can sometimes break a stubborn fastener loose before that happens.

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2910-2-Inch-Manual-7-Piece/dp/B000NPPATS?th=1

 

[Greg Langelius *]

Wow, good thinking. While I wan't ready to treat it as a buggered screw, or consider specialized tools; this makes me very mindful or the Easy Out setups, and how they just might be applicable here.

Greg

 

[Iamero]

Glad someone else mentioned the torx bit. That's how I got my stripped hex screws out. Took a brass hammer and tapped it down in there until it was firmly seated and then it broke loose no problem.

 

[Greg Langelius *]

The Torx was the answer. I tapped in the T10 bit and used the hand driver on it. Taking it easy, it came right out. The new bases are on, the scopes are mounted and leveled, and I am flat out grateful, guys; you came though yet again. The new base screws are on, LokTited (Blue) and a few drops of Blue under the base to bed it.

Many thanks.

Greg

 

[Easy_E]

I've taken a large pair of channel locks and squeeze the base while rocking back and forth . The base will crack right in two leaving the screw exposed enoughfor needle nose vise grips .