Rifle Scopes I need some direction on MILRAD vs MOA.

Terryw123

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Minuteman
Jan 26, 2011
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Chula Vista, Ca
Ok so I know this has been asked about 50,000 times but, I haven't found a thread that breaks it down stupid style for me. I am pretty sure that I have decided on a nightforce f1 but I can't decide what kind of reticle and turrets to go with. I am brand new it distance shooting and if I am going to spend the money on quality glass I want to do it right. Can someone hook me up with links to videos or threads that could break this down for me?


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Pick one and learn it but regardless of which system you choose make damn sure the turrets and reticle match i.e. moa/moa or mil/mil.

You'll get 1,001 reasons why mil is better than moa or vice versa so choose what you're comfortable with and when you're proficient with that system, try the other.

The mil/moa discussion is like Coke vs Pepsi or Ford vs Chevy. Both will get the job done.
 
Both units work. Mil is what the overwhelming majority of military, police and tactical type shooters use. MOA is common in certain competition circles and among people who think in inches per 100 yards. IMHO, go mil unless you already know MOA forward/backward/inside out / upside down, which I'm guessing you don't from your question.
 
i agree ... first get a scope that the reticle matches the turret as killshot explained i use mils because the math is easy its in 10'.... but if you have no aspect of using meters and have a better aspect of ranging with yards go with moa... they both work fine i think some pople have a better understanding of moa cuz they reffer it to inches as 1/4 moa is around an inch type thing. i think most of night force reticles are moa anyways... i think
 
Agree with all the above. I prefer MOA/MOA with 1/4 moa clicks as it is a finer adjustment than 0.1mil clicks (1/4moa=0.25inch(approx) vs 0.1mil=0.36inch both at 100 yards). It is not difficult to switch from one to the other if you decide later.

On youtube, search "moa" then "milliradian" and watch the videos from 'National Shooting Sport Foundation'. Ryan explains the concept exceptionally well.
 
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I prefer the MOA/MOA...my mind seems to get the .25 moa = 1/4 inch math, along with finer adjustment....however, your high end scope choices are limited, as not all scope manufactures offer a MOA reticle.
 
I prefer the MOA/MOA...my mind seems to get the .25 moa = 1/4 inch math, along with finer adjustment....however, your high end scope choices are limited, as not all scope manufactures offer a MOA reticle.




Why think in inch math at all?


If your scope is moa then think in moa

If its mils then think in mils
 
It's not at all difficult to make an MOA reticle, it's just an issue of market demand and supply. I don't think anyone outside North America wants MOA, so you'll only get a MOA reticle if the scope was designed primarily for the US/Canada market.

Nightforce makes a wide range of reticles in both mils and MOA.

1/4 MOA is finer than .1 mil, but the 0.1 mil adjustments are not an issue until your accuracy is 0.05 mil or better (that works out to an error of about 0.18 inches at 100 yards). That means only the better benchrest and very best F-class guys are potentially held back by .1 mil adjustments.

To me, the single biggest reason to go mil is that many good scopes are only available in mil, and if you want one of those someday, you can either:
-just go for it, if mil is your system already;
-skip it, if MOA is your system and you wisely choose not to mix systems; or
-get it, and be doomed to always having to remember which scope you're using, whether it's mil or MOA, and then whip out a cheat sheet to remind you or confirm the calculation for that system, instead of just memorizing one system or the other and always using it.
 
Mil and MOA are really the same thing, angular measurement. They both do the same thing just with different numbers. It will really boil down to your personal preference and intended use. If you routinely shoot with people who have mil based reticles and you have MOA based (or vise versa). Now you have math to deal with. If you want to mess around ranging with both and see if you like one over the other in that respect. Head over to ShooterReady and try them both.
 
I am kind of in the same dilemma you are in, I would look for the scope reticle you like the most and also use that to factor in your decision. I found that I really like the msr reticle and its only offered in mil adjustments
 
I have both. It is not a bad practice to be able to speak both languages. If you call a miss to me in mils, I can convert it to moa and vice versa.

For field purposes 1 mil = 3.5 moa. This is not exact, but it is within the resolution of .25 minute scope turrets. The actual measurement is approximately 3.438. A tactical moa scope usually has .25 moa turrets. You can't dial 3.438. You can dial 3.5.

Don't think in inches. Don't think in centimeters. Think in moa or mil. If you spotter calls your miss in inches, you need a new spotter.
 
The other issue I have is that my other three long range shooters that I train with all use moa scopes. I have tried using a mil scope in the group....it can be done....but it is a pain in the ass... Everyone on the same page is much easier.
 
+100 for the NSSF videos on YouTube. Very good videos. Watch them, then watch them again, then when your done watching them, watch them again, and if you get a chance.........watch them again! And then don't listen to anyone, get what you want and learn how to use it, once you figure out what you want, watch the videos again.
 
I recently had to make this same choice. I was choosing between MIL and MOA on a Vortex Razor HD 5-20 FFP scope. I had an opportunity to borrow a MIL version, and used it in a range estimation exercise, using the reticle to estimate range to targets of known size. In doing so, it was apparent that the more divisions you have on the crosshair, the closer you can estimate to the true range, in your range estimation. So, I looked on the Vortex website and checked out the images they had for the MIL and the MOA reticles. The MIL reticle had more subdivisions on the reticles, so to me it was logical that it would be easier to use with the greater number of divisions. Now this only applied to range estimating, but if you have a need for that consider it. But, go out to the vendor's website and look at the images they have for the two choices to be a better informed consumer.
 
Angles are angles. It's inches vs centimeters. The only practical difference is the size of the POI adjustment per click in the available models. If you go with mils and have .1 mil clicks, make sure it's fine enough for your application. For example, in F class, there is a real benefit to having 1/8MOA clicks (.125"/100 yards). The larger 0.1 or even 0.05 mil clicks will be a disadvantage.

If you think in meters, mils make the math a tad easier. If you think in American, MOA will make the math a tad easier. Either one works, though.

DO make sure the reticle matches the turrets. It is pure idiocy to manufacture a scope where they don't match, but they do.
 
Neither is imperical or metric. Stop thinking like that and this whole thing gets a lot easier.

Learn the formulas so you understand how the math works. Make or buy a mil/moa distance vs size chart then forget the formula. Read the ruler and look up the answer.

The only question is which one fits your needs better. Only you can answer that question.
 
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Ok so I know this has been asked about 50,000 times but, I haven't found a thread that breaks it down stupid style for me. I am pretty sure that I have decided on a nightforce f1 but I can't decide what kind of reticle and turrets to go with. I am brand new it distance shooting and if I am going to spend the money on quality glass I want to do it right. Can someone hook me up with links to videos or threads that could break this down for me?


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Neither are linear measurements, so don't think in meters or inches. They are both used the same way. I'd use what the rest of your group/friends use. My first scope was in MOA, but all the others I've bought have been in MILs.
 
Why think in inch math at all?


If your scope is moa then think in moa

If its mils then think in mils

Even better, just think in "units". Mil or MOA are just a unit of measurement of a reticle. Unless you're doing a lot of ranging with the reticle (which is very unlikely), the units don't matter as long as the turrets and the reticle match.

Having said that, I would absolutely recommend MIL/MRAD. It is the global standard and MOA is dying a slow death. The chances of you being on a range with other MIL shooters who can talk the same language are much higher than being there with MOA shooters. go with MIL because of the more universal nature and more common language.
 
Thanks to everyone for helping with this easy decision! It's a done deal with going MIL. It seems super easy and I hate fractions! Thanks DFOOSKING. That video knocked out of the park! Exactly what I needed! Now to pick a reticle! I'm sure that will be simple enough......


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Why are people acting like this is a metric vs standard issue?

Mils work JUST as easy in yards as they do meters.

A mil is just 1/1000th of your measurement for distance.

1mil is 1 meter @ 1000 meters. 1mil is 1 yard @1000 yards. At 100 yards it is .10 yards, or 3.6 inches.

The angle depends NOTHING on the distance of your shot. I can measure all my shots in degrees, minutes, seconds, radians or mil radians regardless of whether my shots are in centimeters, inches, feet, meters, yards, kilometers or miles and it will all work out exactly the same.

If you are just now getting into long range shooting, like I am, you can easily learn either or both.

I would however follow the suggestions to go either MIL/MIL or MOA/MOA.
 
Terry, do not rule out MOAs because you hate fractions. .25=1/4, 1/4=.25; 1/10=.1, .1=1/10.

You are dealing with a fraction/decimal with either choice.

Both will come just as easy to you as the other.
 
Terry, do not rule out MOAs because you hate fractions. .25=1/4, 1/4=.25; 1/10=.1, .1=1/10.

You are dealing with a fraction/decimal with either choice.

Both will come just as easy to you as the other.

Actually, this does annoy me as an MOA user. I wish they came in 10ths/5ths instead of 8ths/4ths. .1 MOA is perfect for long range KD, and I hate having to write down my zeros as fractions or three-decimal numbers. A minor thing, but it's something.
 
Terry, do not rule out MOAs because you hate fractions. .25=1/4, 1/4=.25; 1/10=.1, .1=1/10.

You are dealing with a fraction/decimal with either choice.

Both will come just as easy to you as the other.

I totally get it but, a simple system of .1-1.0 is going to get me started in the right direction I think which is shooting. Right now I have an old Leupold VX-III Tactical with a MILDOT reticle and MOA turrets on a SPS Tactical. Right now I'm just waiting on my A4 stock and I'm sending to Phoenix tactical to have the action trued, bartlein barrel, and bedded. Then a new scope but, I'm trying to figure out what will be the best choice for me. thanks again everyone for all the input!


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Actually, this does annoy me as an MOA user. I wish they came in 10ths/5ths instead of 8ths/4ths. .1 MOA is perfect for long range KD, and I hate having to write down my zeros as fractions or three-decimal numbers. A minor thing, but it's something.

A problem with minutes is indeed the fractions. Sure, they can be expressed in decimals. But that is not very helpful if you can still only fit 8 times 0.125 minutes into 1 minute. And for manufacturers to start making scopes in .1 or .05 MOA would just complicate the issue. That would saturate our world with an even wider and more confusing range of turret options.
 
If nothing else, it's easier to remember your dope when it is in .1s instead of 1/4s.

Try memorizing the following two lists, and see which easier:

1, 1.6, 2.7, 3.3, 4.4

1, 1-1/4, 4-3/4, 11-1/2, 15-1/4

It's also quicker to say 4.4 than it is to say 16-1/4.
 
The problem is with the imperial system!

This debate will not end until North America finishes inching its way to the metric system. It is the duty of the rest of the world, and already converted Americans, to drag America – kicking and screaming if need be – into the nineteenth century. There, I’ve always wanted to say that.:p;)
Unfortunately, when Kiwi shooters walk onto a range, something weird happens to their brains. They too suddenly start to think in terms of inches, footsies, yards, miles or knots. Bizarre:confused::rolleyes:….and discombobulating.:mad:

Minutes and Mrads are indeed angular measurements and as such both are equally suitable and usable in the shooting game. Until we start relating them to linear measurements! Some people upthread have suggested avoiding that and just letting angular measurements be angular measurements. That is a fair point and I would be inclined to agree with that. However, that is easier said than done. For instance, we like to relate our group sizes - even if expressed in angular measurements - to the distance from which they are fired. Bingo, linear measurement introduced. Approximately 98.97528 % of shooters (as you all know, 79.64 % of statistics are made up) would - at some point at least - visualise groups in linear terms, even if expressed in angular terms. After all, that bit of paper with those 5 or 10 holes in it is two dimensional. And those callipers measure them in linear measurements.

To say that Mrads can just as easily be used with the imperial system is misleading. Sure, an Mrad projects 1 unit of measure over a distance of 1000 equal units of measure, and whether they are yards, metres, cauliflowers or gumboots is irrelevant. BUT, as soon as you want to cut yards down further, things get unnecessarily complicated. Three footsies in a yard, 36 inches in a yard. I am yet to see a yard stick that cuts a yard down in decimals. And upwards, 1760 yards in mile. Now observe the eloquence of the metric system: there are 10 millimetres in a centimetre, 10 centimetres in a decimetre, 10 decimetres in a metre, 10 metres in a decametre, 10 decametres in a hectometre, and 10 hectometres in a kilometre. One cannot objectively claim that the imperial system is as user-friendly as the metric system, and that it just depends on what you are used to. And therein lies the beauty of Mrads. It too works in decimals. One Mrad projects 758 millimetres over a range of 758 metres. Try that with MOA, and/or with inches or feet or yards or miles.

DCR suggested in post 24 to ‘stop thinking [in terms of imperial or metric] and this whole thing gets a lot easier.’ He then nullified that statement by saying:
‘Learn the formulas so you understand how the math works. Make or buy a mil/moa distance vs size chart then forget the formula. Read the ruler and look up the answer.’
That just shows how deeply ingrained the imperial system is. The almost axiomatic assumption that formulas are required to make things work. Using Mrads AND metrics eliminates the requirement for formulas, and maths (still required when ranging) becomes infinitely simpler and easier.

To conclude, minutes or Mrads as stand-alone units of angular measurements are both fine. However, in the shooting world, it doesn’t take much for linear measurements to be introduced at some level. The essence of the minute for us shooters is the convenient fact that it projects (approximately) 1 inch over 100 yards. As such, the use of minutes is often justified by the use of the imperial system and vice verse. That seems like a circular argument. IMO the demise of the minute is retarded only by the imperial system and related dogma. So, even though Mrads and minutes are angular measurements, the question ‘MOA or Mrad?’ is never about angles. It is always about inches and yards.
 
Kiwigrunt, I totally agree with ALL you said. And for the same reasons that you expressed, I FAR prefer the MIL system for ease of the decimals when breaking down the subdivisions in the reticle and the turrets.

I still say that except in the rare cases (never?) needed to range with the reticle, that the angular measurements looking through the scope CAN BE completely firewalled from the brain's natural desire to want to think in linear terms. Yes, we all want to know how big our group size is in inches, because that's what we know. But I never let the reticle tell me that. I will measure the paper target with a ruler or calipers while standing at the target frame downrange or later when I get home. I don't ask the reticle to tell me that while looking through the scope.

Which is why I maintain for those guys who say "my brain only thinks in inches and yards" so therefore I am more comfortable with MOA..... I say SO WHAT? When I look through the scope at my target downrange at 600 yds and see a splash on steel - all I care about is how far from the POA is it? Using the reticle, I measure it as .4 "somethings" left and .5 "somethings" low of the dead center of the bullseye - then I move my turrets .4 somethings R and .5 somethings UP - put a round in the chamber and pull the trigger. Rinse, lather, repeat.

I guarantee I can put someone behind a rifle without them knowing whether the reticle is MIL or MOA, and have them on target in 3 rounds. And then later on we can walk out to the target and measure the group size with a linear ruler or caliper.

The bottom line is don't "cross the streams" on angular and linear measurements if you don't have to. Using the reticle to range something is the ONLY time where I can see the streams needing to be crossed while looking through the reticle. Everything else can be kept completely separate.
 
One thing that's been bugging me about using MOA reticles and MOA turrets......

As I watch this debate play out, one thing that's been nagging me about the MOA/MOA scopes that doesn't seem right but is intuitive for me on MIL/MIL scopes is how do you convert what you see in the reticle into the actual turret adjustments? I will assume all tactical MOA/MOA scopes have 1/4 click knobs. But when you look through the reticle, most MOA scales are in 2 MOA increments. So when a bullet hole ends up somewhere in between those hash marks, what do you MOA shooters think in terms of - decimals or fractions?

For instance (using the PST reticle as an example), the first pic is of a MIL reticle. If the bullet hole lands where the red arrow is, then I would call this 1.7 mils and dial and additional 1.7 mils left (17 clicks).

But then in the MOA reticle, what would you MOA shooters call that? 4.4 MOA or 4 1/4, 4 1/2? And if 4 1/4 - that again is 17 clicks. If you DO think of it as 4.4 MOA - how many 1/4 clicks is that? Wow, that is not intuitive to me at all. Nor is it easy decimal math.

You guys can keep your MOA scopes. I only think in inches, miles, yards, feet, etc. But my brain doesn't do MOA. Base 10 Decimals are so much easier to me.
 

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I don't see the problem at all. Both MOA and mrad are angular measurements. You are changing the angle to bring POI to POA.
You change the angular measurement. 17 0.1 clicks per the reticle will bring POI to POA. Right?
The second example with a MOA reticle, you measured at 4.4 MOA, OK, you have a choice of 4.25 (17 clicks) or 4.5 (18 clicks). You pays your money and makes your choice.
Interpolation is probably a little easier to grasp with decimal gradations but it shouldn't be that hard. 4.4 is closer to 4.5 than it is 4.25 so I would pick 4.5. Your group dispersion, unless you normally shoot under .2 MOA groups will take care of the rest.
 
I don't see the problem at all. Both MOA and mrad are angular measurements. You are changing the angle to bring POI to POA.
You change the angular measurement. 17 0.1 clicks per the reticle will bring POI to POA. Right?
The second example with a MOA reticle, you measured at 4.4 MOA, OK, you have a choice of 4.25 (17 clicks) or 4.5 (18 clicks). You pays your money and makes your choice.
Interpolation is probably a little easier to grasp with decimal gradations but it shouldn't be that hard. 4.4 is closer to 4.5 than it is 4.25 so I would pick 4.5. Your group dispersion, unless you normally shoot under .2 MOA groups will take care of the rest.

But that's exactly my point. I'm not a fan of counting clicks, so I think the MOA is far more difficult to translate what I see in the reticle to what I dial in the scope. The whole fractions and 1/4 MOA thing just seems too complicated. But whatever works for you.
 
For the "look through the scope and don't think in linear terms" crowd, what do you do with a scope with a plain cross hair reticle or a SFP scope on the wrong magnification setting? Or do you just not buy those? This seems as much an FFP/SFP issue as it is an imperial/metric issue.
 
Just to clarify further.

So far not knowing centimeters or meters (as far as practical everyday useage) hasn't hurt my shooting.

I understand that for most of you the imperial system does not hold you back from using mrads. And I am certainly not suggesting that the two are incompatible. I was merely observing that in those cases were someone DOES struggle with mrads (and not with minutes), then at the core of it is usually the imperial system.

As far as I can see it, there can be two reasons for this. Either THESE people get bogged down in the less sympathetic match between the two systems, or they have always understood minutes through the application of the imperial system (1 inch at 100 yards). I think the latter may be more relevant. It may well be the case that for these people, a better understanding of minutes – purely as angles – to begin with, will help them to understand mrads as being just a different angle.
 
For the "look through the scope and don't think in linear terms" crowd, what do you do with a scope with a plain cross hair reticle or a SFP scope on the wrong magnification setting? Or do you just not buy those? This seems as much an FFP/SFP issue as it is an imperial/metric issue.

Then you are back to the drawing board, and forced to use linear measurements.

At the local rifle club many top-notch shooters – many of whom have been shooting since before Christ gave up building – use exactly these scopes. Most of their scopes are minute based. However, they too claim to only use minutes, and no inches, yards or metres. That is actually a bit of a cheat because the legwork requiring those linear measurements is pre-installed in the targets. We use different targets for different ranges, such that the V-bull is a minute.

Another way to look at that is to imagine the rings on the target as being your moa based reticule.



This vid explains it quite well (the 'back to the drawing board bit):
Understanding Minute of Angle (MOA) - Long-Range Rifle Shooting Technique - YouTube
 
I grew up with scopes with plain cross hairs (the etched reticles didn't really start to show up until the 90's commercially as far as I can tell), and *shudder* iron sights. I therefore had to learn to think in terms of distance on the target. Maybe I'm just old (at 40?), but it still seems like a useful thing to understand. And considering that either unit will require you to do math, I don't see the fuss other than the math is a little easier if you stick with metric. I find that people who don't understand are lacking the concepts, not the mathematical ability.
 
I am not going to reread this whole thread and I will probably regret getting involved but....
A. The Mil system has nothing to do with the metric system.
B. The advantage of the Mil system is in the interpolation of predicted data vs true data. As an example:
I am shooting the first stage of the day in a PRS match. I have 5 targets to hit, 391, 459, 590, 672 and 859 yards.
My predicted data is 1.8, 2.3, 2.9, 4.2, and 5.7 mils respectively. I have one minute to shoot this stage. Shots #1 and #2 are hits but I miss #3 high, I can quickly adust number #4 to 4.1 mils and that tells me that #5 will likely be 5.5. Assuming my 5.5 number is correct for 859 yards, I can then quickly adjust my data out to 1000 yards by subtracting .2 mils from all predicted distances from 859 to 1000 yards. Inside of 300 no correction needed, 300-600 .1 mils adjustment. Beyond 600 I take off .2. I now have taken bad predicted data and in few seconds I have adjusted it to finish this stage. In less than a minute I can adjust all of my data for the rest of the day.
I won't say you can't do this using 5-3/4, 6-1/4,8-1/2, 15-1/4 but you can't do it in the few seconds you have to complete a stage. Now imagine a scenario where you trying to shoot a number of individuals at different distances who are trying to shoot you and your predicted data is off. So whether it is a competition or life and death, I will pass on doing fractional work and just add or subtract .1-.2.
Other than what I have demonstrated above, the two systems of angular measurement do exactly the same thing. Once you go to Mils, you likely will never want to go back to fractional adjustments in the field.
 
Funny this whole thing. I was out at the range today playing with 2 rifles. My Accurate Ordinace 6.5 CM in an AX stock with a Bushnell Mil/Mil HDMR 3.5-21 with G2 reticle and my Knights Armament SR-15 with a new to me 20" Kreiger bbl, Spikes upper with a Trijicon 1-4 Accupoint scope with 1/4 MOA clicks, actually 1/4" @ 100 yd clicks and nothing but a post and chevron reticle.

I was sighting in both scopes after a quick bore sight at home at like 15' using a laser bore sighter. I figured my height of the centerline of the scope and trued up, I thought, the windage.

First the AO gun, way high, like 7" above POA. I didn't bother to measure as I couldn't really see my bullet strikes, they were off the paper and into the cardboard backer. Used my old method, returned the gun to POA and just spun the turrets till the reticle moved to the center of the group I had. I then proceeded to a new target. 3/4" pastors spread out on a plain sheet of paper. Shot the lower right first and then measured the differential using my reticle. Right around 0.5 mils high to the center of a 3/4" group. Great, dialed down 0.5 mils and shot the next bull. First round in the center of the bull, next on top of it, then managed to pull 1 low left and another low right (My trigger pull and breathing were not in sync) and then flinched one high right. Still all within an inch. Now I got pissed and really started paying attention to fundamentals and popped out a 3/8" group in the center of the paster. Got cocky on the next and opened one up to about 3/4" and called it a day.

Then went to the AR. First 10 shots were about 1" low and 5" right from POA. OK, 4 clicks up and 20 clicks left and I should be there. Turned the stupid windage turret the wrong way and wound up with no holes in the paper or even the backer. Idiot move and I really should have gone back to twisting turrets and moving the reticle from original POA to POI on the earlier group and then dialed the last couple of clicks to get on target. I've gotta say that that scope repeats and does what you ask of it but, 4x max mag and a chevron is not the way to go for tight groups. There is gonna be a scope change for that upper. I actually shot my 16" bbl Knights upper with a 2MOA dot Comp M4 to tighter groups. I'll be looking for something in the 4-12 range with mil/mil and a decent reticle. That G2 has spoiled the heck out of me.
 
For the "look through the scope and don't think in linear terms" crowd, what do you do with a scope with a plain cross hair reticle or a SFP scope on the wrong magnification setting? Or do you just not buy those? This seems as much an FFP/SFP issue as it is an imperial/metric issue.

I think the assumption of the discussion was that a miling (MOA'ing) type reticle was assumed. If you have a duplex reticle, it is all guesswork anyway and in that case I would think going back to the linear system you are most comfortable with would make more sense. But unless you're doing BR at fixed ranges - why would anyone want a duplex reticle anymore. Even hunters, I assume, would prefer a mil-dot type reticle over a duplex any day.

As for an SFP scope - yes, it will not work as easily thinking strictly in angles as it does with an FFP scope. Hence the popularity of FFP. I would bet that SFPs become a thing of the past when we are talking about "tactical" scopes. But all is not lost if you have an SFP. You just have to first verify the actual place on the scope where the magnification matches the reticle 1:1. Mark that spot on your mag ring. For any other settings - good luck. Best to actually verify were the 1/2x, 1/4x, etc marks are so there is no guesswork. But failing that, it will at least get you in the ballpark for making shot corrections even if the settings are not perfect.
 
I grew up with scopes with plain cross hairs (the etched reticles didn't really start to show up until the 90's commercially as far as I can tell), and *shudder* iron sights. I therefore had to learn to think in terms of distance on the target. Maybe I'm just old (at 40?), but it still seems like a useful thing to understand. And considering that either unit will require you to do math, I don't see the fuss other than the math is a little easier if you stick with metric. I find that people who don't understand are lacking the concepts, not the mathematical ability.

Why would either unit require you to do any math? Except in the rare (never?) cases where you are trying to determine an unknown distance to the target - there is no math at all required from either a MRAD or MOA reticle. Nada, zip, zilch....provided the turret is in the same units as the reticle. If not... better take your shoes and socks off - because the math IS going to be a bitch.
 
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Why would either unit require you to do any math? Except in the rare (never?) cases where you are trying to determine an unknown distance to the target - there is no math at all required from either a MRAD or MOA reticle. Nada, zip, zilch....provided the turret is in the same units as the reticle. If not... better take your shoes and socks off - because the math IS going to be a bitch.

If you don't have tick marks on your reticle, you must do math to sight in your rifle, for example.
 
But then in the MOA reticle, what would you MOA shooters call that? 4.4 MOA or 4 1/4, 4 1/2? And if 4 1/4 - that again is 17 clicks. If you DO think of it as 4.4 MOA - how many 1/4 clicks is that? Wow, that is not intuitive to me at all. Nor is it easy decimal math.

Who cares how many clicks 4.4 MOA is?

First of all, MOA target turrets are numbered every MOA (1, 2, 3, 4) and have either 4 or eight marked lines between MOA numerals.

Second, all MOA scopes are either .25 or .125 MOA per click.

So if you REALLY have to dope 4.4 MOA, and you have a .25 MOA scope (the most common), you have to round to the nearest .25 MOA. Now you realize that 4.4 MOA has to be doped as 4.5 MOA and to do so run the knob to the 4 MOA line plus 2 clicks.

Done.
 
If you don't have tick marks on your reticle, you must do math to sight in your rifle, for example.

Yes. So?

Math is simple

1 MOA = 1.047 inches

1 miliradian = 3.6 inches

Sight in your duplex reticle using the math and then forget about the math. With a simple duplex you won't be doing too many holdover or windage holds out in the field since have virtually no reference marks on your scope.
 
Who cares how many clicks 4.4 MOA is?

First of all, MOA target turrets are numbered every MOA (1, 2, 3, 4) and have either 4 or eight marked lines between MOA numerals.

Second, all MOA scopes are either .25 or .125 MOA per click.

So if you REALLY have to dope 4.4 MOA, and you have a .25 MOA scope (the most common), you have to round to the nearest .25 MOA. Now you realize that 4.4 MOA has to be doped as 4.5 MOA and to do so run the knob to the 4 MOA line plus 2 clicks.

Done.

Dude, I totally get that. I was simply saying my brain works in decimals and not fractions - so when I see that MOA reticle - I'm still trying to make decimals out of the interpolation between MOA marks. And then I would have to reconvert it back into fractions to dial the turret. For those that think in fractions, no issue. I'm just saying that's why I don't personally like the MOA reticle and turrets, even if they are matched and there's not math involved.