I would like ideas for recovering a .22LR fired slug undamaged.
- Thread starter obx22
- Start date
20 lb box of poly-fil.
Polyester fibers in 4 gallon trash bags worked well.
www.rimfirecentral.com
Polyester fibers in 4 gallon trash bags worked well.
50 at 200
don't mind me but I think I will drill a hole all the way thru the bullet to see if it will whistle going down range. thinking out of the box or out of my mind. thank for another great idea I want to try the 50 at 200 this summer when there is no wind layder
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I tried just pulling, heel is damaged, distorted from brass crimp.
Shooting then capturing shows the bullet heel obdurates
fills in the crimped area producing a cylinder shape from the drive bands back.
Compare pulled to fired...
Shooting then capturing shows the bullet heel obdurates
fills in the crimped area producing a cylinder shape from the drive bands back.
Compare pulled to fired...
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How did you retrieve your fired slugs?I tried just pulling, heel is damaged, distorted from brass crimp.
Shooting then capturing shows the bullet heel obdurates
fills in the crimped area producing a cylinder shape from the drive bands back.
Compare pulled to fired...
1. The purpose of this is to document whether the bore masks damage to slugs from the feeding process.
2. Whether certain rifling does a better or worse job of it.
3. Whether clocking the rifling style to the damage does a better or worse job of masking the damage.
4. If # 3 is productive- can you chart an improvement in accuracy by alignment of lands or grooves to the damage, however slight.
During magazine feeding, a lot of action set-ups cause the slug to kiss the chamber at 6:00 or 12:00.
A lot of bolt bottoms scratch or cut slots in the top of the following slugs during cycling.
This displaced material must impact accuracy to a degree.
I can make it easy for ya' obx.
Any damage to the drive bands affects accuracy.
At the leading edge produces the least loss of accuracy,
damage at the crimp causes the most.
All documented in that thread linked above.
Landy offered some comments and procedures to attempt.
Results showed some interesting effects on projectile trajectories.
Look at these results...
www.rimfirecentral.com
Any damage to the drive bands affects accuracy.
At the leading edge produces the least loss of accuracy,
damage at the crimp causes the most.
All documented in that thread linked above.
Landy offered some comments and procedures to attempt.
Results showed some interesting effects on projectile trajectories.
Look at these results...
50 at 200
Thanks you, jaia. This thread is not a thread, is an ammo encyclopedia. You do an amazing job for all of us. The first thing I do before choosing an ammo to try, is read your posts. :bthumb::bthumb: +1 Thanks for documenting your efforts for us.
www.rimfirecentral.com
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Dr. Richard Mann settled this debate back in the early 1900's through his many experimentations, all published in his book, "The Bullet's Flight: The Ballistics of Small Arms." (with margin notes by Harry M. Pope). It's a classic.
A quick take-away on what he found that effects accuracy- the big driver he found is the base of the bullet.
He made his bullet traps using large amounts of oiled sawdust
A quick take-away on what he found that effects accuracy- the big driver he found is the base of the bullet.
He made his bullet traps using large amounts of oiled sawdust
How about those circus guys that catch bullets with their teeth? Might could hire one on for an afternoon for a few corny dogs and some funnel cake?
Really not that popular after a magician named Chung Lin Su died
A lot of bolt bottoms scratch or cut slots in the top of the following slugs during cycling.
Is it the bolt bottoms?
During a discussion, it was pointed out that the damage didn't appear to be bolt related.
The groove in the following bullet nose and drive bands fit the shape of the rim of the previous bullet.
It looked like the bolt driving the top cartridge forward dragged the rim from rear to front along the bottom cartridge.
Is it the bolt bottoms?
During a discussion, it was pointed out that the damage didn't appear to be bolt related.
The groove in the following bullet nose and drive bands fit the shape of the rim of the previous bullet.
It looked like the bolt driving the top cartridge forward dragged the rim from rear to front along the bottom cartridge.
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I thought about the water tank idea, but too much work involved.
Backsplash and muzzle report would be a problem.
The poly-fil is lightweight and easily portable to the local range.
I can set up in an action bay where I don't interfere with anyone else,
fire as many rounds as desired and recover each projectile immediately after firing.
The 4 gallon bags can be replaced as they are shredded and the poly-fil lasts indefinitely.
Cardboard framework keeps the poly-filled bags in line.
Bullets can be recovered intact, even hollowpoints, as the polyester fibers slow-then entangle them.
I've weighed and measured the bullet dimensions, inspected with a loupe to understand what happens.
Backsplash and muzzle report would be a problem.
The poly-fil is lightweight and easily portable to the local range.
I can set up in an action bay where I don't interfere with anyone else,
fire as many rounds as desired and recover each projectile immediately after firing.
The 4 gallon bags can be replaced as they are shredded and the poly-fil lasts indefinitely.
Cardboard framework keeps the poly-filled bags in line.
Bullets can be recovered intact, even hollowpoints, as the polyester fibers slow-then entangle them.
I've weighed and measured the bullet dimensions, inspected with a loupe to understand what happens.
how about using the middle school homemade suppressor? actually it’s not a suppressor, it’s a bullet catching device. Stuff a 2 liter bottle full of poly fill. Stick your barrel in to the opening on the bottle and shoot. It’s extremely quiet and will catch the projectile without deforming it depending on how tight you pack the filler.
My first post is a shameless plug for my own video. It may get me banned before the ink on my registration is dry. I do hope it helps the original poster, though.
I have tried shooting into water, with poor results. The bullets always skid veer in the water and one side looks like the bottom of a boat.
Perched upon a 12' stepladder, shooting straight down into a barrel of water; you'll still get soaked. Ha ha. Fun memories.
You can't pull bullets (or remove them kinetically) without damaging the bullets. I won't tell you how I removed the "unfired" bullets from the loaded cartridge because it isn't safe and I don't want anyone else trying it because I said to do it.
I’ve shot against 4-5 that don’t. Purchasing a given brand doesn’t guarantee it will feed flawlessly or function 100%.
Thank you very much for sharing this, gives even more to ponder.
In your testing, have you ever experimented with swaging bores (bores designed on purpose to swage the slug down to a smaller caliber such as .20 or .17) ?
I’m wondering if such a bore would shine in the modern ELR ranges we take rimfires to.
I'm not familiar with swage bore rifles and have never experimented with them.
In the video, I used a 6" tube and typically fired 5 rounds at a time. I'd spread them around in the tube a bit to avoid striking previously fired projectiles. More than five rounds and bullet strikes tended to accumulate. I also shot at 50 yards but it works fine at close range, too. I figured since I have the range, why not let the air slow them down before catching them.
I plan to do more testing this summer to see if I can isolate the "flyers" and see what they look like compared to the accurate bullets.
Good luck with your own experiments. Please share what you learn from them.
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