Impact bolt knob contact issue

[Eaglearcher20]

I’m assuming I’m not the first person to have this issue. The factory bolt knob on my Impact 737 LA is hitting the throw lever on my NF ATACR 7-35 when I have it turned to about 33-35x. I have medium height ARC rings.
What are my options to fix this? Is there a way to change the bolt lift angle? Is there an aftermarket bolt knob/adapter that would change the angle of the knob? I really don’t want to change my scope height if I don’t have to.

 

[Torchy]

Best bet might be a switchview and drop the factory throw lever on your atacr. That’s what I did for my comp guns.

 

[Eaglearcher20]

I took a quick look and it appears NF makes one but only for the F2 ATACR. I’ll have to see if there are any aftermarket ones that will work.

 

[Eaglearcher20]

Any other thoughts or remedies on this issue?

 

[WildBill3/75]

1. Remove the throw lever.

2. You could get a 60°action.

3. Higher rings.

Use common sense and solve your problem. Do you really need a throw lever on a long action that you're obviously using at 35x? A 5/64 hex key will pop it right out... They made it removable for a reason. We got by just fine before the invention of throw levers.

 

[Eaglearcher20]

1. Remove the throw lever.

2. You could get a 60°action.

3. Higher rings.

Use common sense and solve your problem. Do you really need a throw lever on a long action that you're obviously using at 35x? A 5/64 hex key will pop it right out... They made it removable for a reason. We got by just fine before the invention of throw levers.

I understand your point, but don’t need the “back in my day” attitude. I know the PTL is removable because I installed it. However, I don’t want to get rid of a throw lever because it’s useful. I just paid 1,400 for my Impact Action, not looking to throw it out for a little contact and I mentioned I don’t want to adjust my scope height. I posed my question after looking at the options I knew about and didn’t like any of them.

I came here and asked because enough people on here I’m sure have run into a similar situation and may have found a feasible workaround or mod that I’m unaware of. Feel free to going back to your front porch to yell at the kids to get off your lawn.

 

[StrayDog]

Try a different knob depending on where it contacts.
The Impact knob is nice though, being heavy steel, it contributes to the smooth bolt cycle.
They made smaller, spherical knobs in steel too, but maybe a tapered will work?

 

[Eaglearcher20]

Try a different knob depending on where it contacts.
The Impact knob is nice though, being heavy steel, it contributes to the smooth bolt cycle.
They made smaller, spherical knobs in steel too, but maybe a tapered will work?

I was wondering if there was some type of adapter where the bolt threads in to change the angle so I could keep the same bolt, but would really consider a change in the knob itself if it would give me clearance and still be quality.

 

[Wannabustbunnies]

I use reel coasters on a couple of my rifles and they work well. They may not look as good as a factory lever but you can position them anywhere on the mag ring you want and only cost a few dollars. I am able to get my full mag range on a couple of Vortex scopes (3-15 & 4-16)

 

[WildBill3/75]

I understand your point, but don’t need the “back in my day” attitude. I know the PTL is removable because I installed it. However, I don’t want to get rid of a throw lever because it’s useful. I just paid 1,400 for my Impact Action, not looking to throw it out for a little contact and I mentioned I don’t want to adjust my scope height. I posed my question after looking at the options I knew about and didn’t like any of them.

I came here and asked because enough people on here I’m sure have run into a similar situation and may have found a feasible workaround or mod that I’m unaware of. Feel free to going back to your front porch to yell at the kids to get off your lawn.

This right here is the plague that is infecting this community in recent years.

I don't know you. You don't know me. I didn't come to your thread and spend my own time with the purpose to shit on you.
I spent my time to give you solid common sense solutions as sometime that's been shooting precision rifles for a long time and have ran into many problems where I had to problem solve.

We are a community, one that I try to give back to when I can as I appreciate the community growing and becoming more knowledgeable.

You listed your using a long action and at 35x.

Common sense dictates that you don't need whatever minute added benefit gained by the use of a throw lever.

Have you even tried to run without it? It will be plenty quick without a lever.


Your completely against the idea of running taller rings.

You own a 90° action, it is well known that there can be contact when running a scope as low as you can go with a 90° action.


Just because you don't like the answer to your problem doesn't mean it isn't the correct answer.

Being so close minded and easily offended when someone giving you common sense advise makes you look like an entitled whiney bitch.

Grow some thicker skin.

 

[Eaglearcher20]

This right here is the plague that is infecting this community in recent years.

I don't know you. You don't know me. I didn't come to your thread and spend my own time with the purpose to shit on you.
I spent my time to give you solid common sense solutions as sometime that's been shooting precision rifles for a long time and have ran into many problems where I had to problem solve.

We are a community, one that I try to give back to when I can as I appreciate the community growing and becoming more knowledgeable.

You listed your using a long action and at 35x.

Common sense dictates that you don't need whatever minute added benefit gained by the use of a throw lever.

Have you even tried to run without it? It will be plenty quick without a lever.


Your completely against the idea of running taller rings.

You own a 90° action, it is well known that there can be contact when running a scope as low as you can go with a 90° action.


Just because you don't like the answer to your problem doesn't mean it isn't the correct answer.

Being so close minded and easily offended when someone giving you common sense advise makes you look like an entitled whiney bitch.

Grow some thicker skin.

Don’t think anywhere in my post was I being closed minded. Quite the opposite considering I came looking for mods or unique solutions to my issue. The post above mentioning reel coasters is what I was expecting. An outside the box solution. And I’m far from easily offended. However I do take issue with with experienced people talking down to newcomers. It’s neither helpful or needed to those trying to find their way. You could have ended your original post by listing the three options, but you had to tack on some condescending attitude.

Let’s drop it at this point. We aren’t going to see eye to eye. I have others offering the help I came looking for. I prefer to find solutions rather than accepting “The way we have always done things.”

 

[Terry Cross]

I’m assuming I’m not the first person to have this issue. The factory bolt knob on my Impact 737 LA is hitting the throw lever on my NF ATACR 7-35 when I have it turned to about 33-35x. I have medium height ARC rings.
What are my options to fix this? Is there a way to change the bolt lift angle? Is there an aftermarket bolt knob/adapter that would change the angle of the knob? I really don’t want to change my scope height if I don’t have to.

What type of stock are you running?
Is the 737 bolt hitting the throw lever as it comes up for primary extraction or on the way back once fully rotated?


./

 

[Eaglearcher20]

Post up a photo of your rifle from the side. Specifically the action/ scope area. Direct 90*

 

[Eaglearcher20]

 

[Eaglearcher20]

What type of stock are you running?
Is the 737 bolt hitting the throw lever as it comes up for primary extraction or on the way back once fully rotated?


./

MPA Comp ESR. It hits in just normal running of the bolt. I tried to get a picture of the line it is making on the bolt itself, didn’t come out very good though.

Want to make clear that it doesn’t STOP the bolt, but it usually pushes the throw lever up a little unless I slowly pull the bolt back. Then it comes to a stop.

 

[kindabitey]

If you want to keep the lever you have on your optic, the easiest fix is taller rings. The only issue I see with that, is taking a divot out of your thumb if you get in a hurry with the bolt. I'd suggest trying it w/o the lever to see how stiff the mag ring is.

 

[sodakhunter]

How about grinding off the top of the bolt knob in some fashion. If it looks like crap very easy to replace.

 

[6brshooter]

Op, as mentioned, you're limited to a few fixes. Some ypu don't want to do, but unfortunately you are gonna have to bite the bullet or live with this interference. Taller rings and move scope slightly forward, lose the nf cattail, or switch actions. If you added a bent down bolt handle, you would likely run into stock clearance issues. I like a scope as low as possible, but I also have 60°actions. A low scope helps mitigate slight cant issues, albeit slightly. Personally, id lose the factory nf cat tail and look into the one that was posted or see if mk machine makes one. Where nf placed that cat tail was dumb. I prefer for cat tail to be at 12 o'clock on max power, if i need to dial down, it will end up at 7-9oclock.

 

[Eaglearcher20]

Op, as mentioned, you're limited to a few fixes. Some ypu don't want to do, but unfortunately you are gonna have to bite the bullet or live with this interference. Taller rings and move scope slightly forward, lose the nf cattail, or switch actions. If you added a bent down bolt handle, you would likely run into stock clearance issues. I like a scope as low as possible, but I also have 60°actions. A low scope helps mitigate slight cant issues, albeit slightly. Personally, id lose the factory nf cat tail and look into the one that was posted or see if mk machine makes one. Where nf placed that cat tail was dumb. I prefer for cat tail to be at 12 o'clock on max power, if i need to dial down, it will end up at 7-9oclock.

Yeah, when I first noticed the issue I thought maybe I would be lucky and they would have put multiple attach points which would be awesome. I will check mk machine.

 

[Eaglearcher20]

If you want to keep the lever you have on your optic, the easiest fix is taller rings. The only issue I see with that, is taking a divot out of your thumb if you get in a hurry with the bolt. I'd suggest trying it w/o the lever to see how stiff the mag ring is.

The ring is fairly stiff. That is why I really want to kee the lever.

 

[Eaglearcher20]

Your scope is mounted about an inch too far rearward. As a very "general " rule of thumb, I like the back of the eyepiece to be over the center of the grip. You could likely avoid that narrow conflict by moving the scope forward. But it looks like even then you're going to be rubbing knuckles on the ocular housing. This is another reason why I like to use higher rings. I think people trying to get the scope as low as possible gets out of hand a little. View attachment 7389865

I’ve always been under the impression to keep the scope as low as possible.
I’ll continue to look for other options but I may ultimately have to do what I don’t want to and go with higher rings.

 

[6brshooter]

60° master race checking in, lol.

 

[Changed]

Move your optic forward, and adjust your stock for the new LOP. Not huge deal.

 

[Eaglearcher20]

View attachment 7390000
60° master race checking in, lol.

I will definitely look at 60* actions for my next build. Not having a ton of experience or background in engineering, why don’t all actions use 60*?

 

[6brshooter]

I will definitely look at 60* actions for my next build. Not having a ton of experience or background in engineering, why don’t all actions use 60*?

Some girls have issues with the bolt lift, lol.

 

[6brshooter]

Ha, sweet Bushnell!

Poor people....

Lol, I know right. Good glass, perfect tracking and a reticle that doesn't look like a fucking math problem(I'm looking at you mil-r). It could be worse, I could have let a small child multicam paint my mpa....

 

[6brshooter]

Yeah, I had an atacr it was nice and all. I just hated the reticle. Once I saw + & - all over it, I couldn't unsee it. I like my dmr2 pro's and xrs2 fine, ive got 850 in my dmr2, 1000 in dmr2pro and 1200 in my xrs2's. I would need 10k to buy atacrs for those 4 rifles, im out, but i ain't a baller like you.

 

[BLKWLFK9]

I’ve always been under the impression to keep the scope as low as possible.
I’ll continue to look for other options but I may ultimately have to do what I don’t want to and go with higher rings.

Myth #1. As long as you enter the correct bore height in your ballistic calculator, you can have 3" high rings. Doesn't matter. Get some higher rings, re-zero, Bob's your uncle. In fact, there are a lot of shooters that would benefit greatly by using higher rings. It will force you to get your head more vertical instead of crooked over to the side. Youre shooting an MPA, youve got adjustable cheek weld height. Higher rings will solve your issue and u may even like the way it feels better.

 

[6brshooter]

Xrs2 and impact, it has plenty of clearance even at 30x, though usually spends most time at 20-25×.

 

[BLKWLFK9]

Perfect timing. Check out someone with a question on ring height.

Rifle Scopes - Ring Height vs. Cheek Weld, Comfort, Fatigue etc...

Here's some background information: I have a Remington 700 in a KRG W-3 chassis, chambered in .22-250. The scope was a Vortex Viper PST 5-25X 30mm tube. It was mounted in Burris signature rings 1 inch height on a Badger Ordnance 20 MOA base. I'm getting the rifle re-barreled to 6.5 CM with...

www.snipershide.com

 

[Terry Cross]

I have no clue what size person you are, your physical build or how long the LOP of your stock is set at but I would bet good money you have your stock set way too long on your LOP.

90% of individuals and officers coming through our classes have their stocks setup wrong. When asked why person X has their stock set at 14" LOP they will say that is the length they need to get behind the scope correctly........ We just go Damn. Really?...and then help them fix it.

I am a knuckle dragger (arm length longer than my inseam). I am a little over 6ft with arms built for someone 6'6" but I run all my bolt guns barely at 13" LOP. You can get away with poor stock setups when prone or shooting off of supports but that stops when going into otherwise compromised positions or having to shoot pure positional.

Again, do not know your setup/body build but set your LOP up first without ANY regard to the optic. Optic should have exactly ZERO do do with LOP. Fair chance that if you reduce your LOP to where it is likely supposed to be, you can then move your optic forward a good bit. IF that is the case, problem solved.

This may not be your situation but I would hate to think it was and you just started replacing equipment, etc. instead of taking the correct path.

Good luck with getting your happy on with your setup.


./

 

[Eaglearcher20]

I have no clue what size person you are, your physical build or how long the LOP of your stock is set at but I would bet good money you have your stock set way too long on your LOP.

90% of individuals and officers coming through our classes have their stocks setup wrong. When asked why person X has their stock set at 14" LOP they will say that is the length they need to get behind the scope correctly........ We just go Damn. Really?...and then help them fix it.

I am a knuckle dragger (arm length longer than my inseam). I am a little over 6ft with arms built for someone 6'6" but I run all my bolt guns barely at 13" LOP. You can get away with poor stock setups when prone or shooting off of supports but that stops when going into otherwise compromised positions or having to shoot pure positional.

Again, do not know your setup/body build but set your LOP up first without ANY regard to the optic. Optic should have exactly ZERO do do with LOP. Fair chance that if you reduce your LOP to where it is likely supposed to be, you can then move your optic forward a good bit. IF that is the case, problem solved.

This may not be your situation but I would hate to think it was and you just started replacing equipment, etc. instead of taking the correct path.

Good luck with getting your happy on with your setup.


./

This is a valid point for me for more than just this issue. I’ve tried reading as much as possible on proper setup but I’m really a “hands on” learner.

 

[Eaglearcher20]

I have no clue what size person you are, your physical build or how long the LOP of your stock is set at but I would bet good money you have your stock set way too long on your LOP.

90% of individuals and officers coming through our classes have their stocks setup wrong. When asked why person X has their stock set at 14" LOP they will say that is the length they need to get behind the scope correctly........ We just go Damn. Really?...and then help them fix it.

I am a knuckle dragger (arm length longer than my inseam). I am a little over 6ft with arms built for someone 6'6" but I run all my bolt guns barely at 13" LOP. You can get away with poor stock setups when prone or shooting off of supports but that stops when going into otherwise compromised positions or having to shoot pure positional.

Again, do not know your setup/body build but set your LOP up first without ANY regard to the optic. Optic should have exactly ZERO do do with LOP. Fair chance that if you reduce your LOP to where it is likely supposed to be, you can then move your optic forward a good bit. IF that is the case, problem solved.

This may not be your situation but I would hate to think it was and you just started replacing equipment, etc. instead of taking the correct path.

Good luck with getting your happy on with your setup.


./

So, just a follow up. If I have a basic understanding of LOP is it the distance between the trigger and the back of the stock. Also, from some quick searches it appears that a general rule of thumb is placing the stock on the inside of the elbow when bent at 90° and having your trigger finger sit flat on the trigger. If the prior two statements are correct, then I am set up WAY long. I've actually dialed the stock wheel as short as I can on my MPA and it is still too long. So I will need to see what my options are there. This allowed me to see what people meant by moving my scope forward as well. If I am able to move my scope forward about 1/2" I would no longer have clearance issues.

So THANKS again to everyone who chimed in and if anyone knows what I could do to shorten the LOP on my MPA Comp ESR stock I would greatly appreciate it.

 

[Terry Cross]

So, just a follow up. If I have a basic understanding of LOP is it the distance between the trigger and the back of the stock. Also, from some quick searches it appears that a general rule of thumb is placing the stock on the inside of the elbow when bent at 90° and having your trigger finger sit flat on the trigger. If the prior two statements are correct, then I am set up WAY long. I've actually dialed the stock wheel as short as I can on my MPA and it is still too long. So I will need to see what my options are there. This allowed me to see what people meant by moving my scope forward as well. If I am able to move my scope forward about 1/2" I would no longer have clearance issues.

So THANKS again to everyone who chimed in and if anyone knows what I could do to shorten the LOP on my MPA Comp ESR stock I would greatly appreciate it.

I think you are on the right track.

The method you mention for deducing proper LOP is the industry standard which I think is incorrect for heavier precision rifles (rifles typically heavier than traditional hunting rifles). That method is a carry over from the shotgun world going all the way back to Europe and in my opinion is useless for our type rifles.

I am personally using a full 1" shorter LOP than the above method would have indicated and have been for the last 2 decades.


./

 

[6brshooter]

What Terry said. That measurement, from crook of elbow to trigger finger, is a hold over from shotgun stock set up. It generally results in too long lop for rifles.

 

[Eaglearcher20]

So I took a "break from work" and shortened the lop as far as it will go (side note I am 5'6 with slightly long for my height arms) and it is still a touch too long, but after moving my scope to account for the lop change my issue has been fixed...by a decent margin, lol. Also excited to "have a reason" that I must go back to the range soon to sight in the rifle again.

 

[Terry Cross]

So I took a "break from work" and shortened the lop as far as it will go (side note I am 5'6 with slightly long for my height arms) and it is still a touch too long, but after moving my scope to account for the lop change my issue has been fixed...by a decent margin, lol. Also excited to "have a reason" that I must go back to the range soon to sight in the rifle again.

Awesome.
Any scope vs. bolt knob issues aside, you moving your LOP closer to where it needs to be will have a large positive impact on your gun handling.

You may not notice much difference while shooting from bench or prone but if you ever start using it in more dynamic situations and positions, your new change will be of great benefit.

./