I have been lurking for 5 years now but have posted very little. I recently had the good fortune to shoot with some guys from DTA and came back and immediately sold my McMillan Tac-50 and got a DTA HTI in 375 CT. The purpose is just to satisfy my dilettante interest in long range shooting and maybe kill a deer at LR or ELR at some point - ans shoot at groundhogs in the meantime. I will post some notes and photos below for others setting up the same equipment. I got the HTI chassis and NF scope and LRA bipod all from Eurooptic. I like those guys. Other than the "adult over 21 years or older present at the delivery address for signature" requirement that had me traipsing all over town chasing the UPS truck tonight to get the scope, that was a great transaction.
The DTA is AWESOME, and the wife even agrees. So much more managable than the BigMac. At 5'8", I can stand holding the rifle muzzle down with arm extended and the barrel does not touch the ground. It's balanced and wonderful. AND, unlike the BigMac, I can check it in a case and not be over 50# without removing the bolt or the bipod or buttstock or something. AND, I can get a 50 BMG conversion if I want to go back to the ultimate hard hitter. (I also have a Barrett 82A1 to play with for kicks for now.)
At the advice of members on the Hide and ar15.com and longrangehunting.com, I chose the Spuhr base/rings in High (1.48" IIRC), 34 mm and 44 MOA cant. Worried that it would not be tall enough, I tried to order the ultra high (1.89") but mile high shooting said they have not yet received their first shipment, and Midway let me order it but sent me the High (Part number 4802) instead of what I ordered (Ultra high, part number 4804), so I had to send it back and they also don't have 4804 yet it appears - inventory error.
The NF ATACR with MOAR reticle JUST BARELY fits. I can run about 6 sheets of paper between the sunshade and the rail, but not more. This is fine, and is good for cheek weld, but does not allow any sort of lens cover to be affixed to the scope. This is with the scope back as far in the mount as I could mount it, see photos. I won't comment on the scope more until I use it in daylight, but to be honest I'm an old school MOA SFP guy and a NF fanboy, so my opinions shouldn't carry much weight around here anyway, if my reading of most posts is any guide.
The leveling device that comes with the Spuhr mount is indeed helpful, if only to prevent the scope from rotating while you're tightening the rings. (GOD is that frustrating!) I confirmed leveling with independent levels on the top rail and a plumb line 25 yards out in the garage. (Wife not happy that this project took place on the kitchen table.) I used red locktite on all the screws and torqued the ring screws to 20 inch pounds and the cross bolts to 5.25 NM.
I'm a huge fan of the Spuhr mount so far. Seems totally awesome. But, as others have noted, the level is not visible when in the shooting position with cheek weld, so I may end up adding a scope tube mounted level at a later time if this remains an issue on the range and in the field.
The LRA bipod is also well made and bombproof, but I wish it canted right and left further and that you could apply tension to make canting under tension but not totally locked down (and that it was not $450). If this is an issue in the field, I'll try an Atlas next.
I adjusted the trigger to the minimum travel and pull weight. I'm accustomed to Jewell triggers. This trigger is very nice, but it's no "jewel". It is similar to the Timney on the Tac-50 which was set at 3.5# (impossible to adjust mine lower) and had minimal creep and travel. At the lowest setting on the DTA HTI, my RCBS (junk) trigger pull gauge measures exactly 3#. But it feels fine, and I accepted the bullpup trigger when I got this, so it's GTG as far as I'm concerned so far.
After I set the scope up leveled and with proper eye relief, I did a manual bore sighting at 25 yards. If that is close at a 100 yard zero, I will have 91 MOA elevation travel remaining to work with in the scope. Add 20 MOA for holdover with the MOAR reticle at full power, and 40 MOA at 12.5 power (and I guess 80 MOA at 6.25x if my math serves me) and I can easily get to 3000 yards with a 350 grain projectile with BC 0.80 and a nominal 3100 FPS.
Now, don't think that that is my intention - hey, I'm just a newbie plinker! But if you WERE "shooting for" 3000+ yards, this setup could get you there and beyond. (Incidentally, my Ballistic program for iPad maxes out at 3000 yards.)
I got some ammo from DTA (DTM). The 352 grain copper solid that supposedly goes 3080 with BC 0.89 IIRC in the Brass that starts with B, I forget. I also got some ammo from CheyTac, 350 SMKs in Jamison brass. In the next few days I will test those loads on the range and chrono them. Locally I have only 800 yards to work with and there's a wind advisory up to 60 MPH for the next 48 hours so we'll have to see. When I have useful results to report, I'll follow up on this thread.
Thanks guys for being such a great source of information the past few years!
~SOA
PS - being a newb, I can't figure out how to post the pics from photobucket.....help solicited....
The DTA is AWESOME, and the wife even agrees. So much more managable than the BigMac. At 5'8", I can stand holding the rifle muzzle down with arm extended and the barrel does not touch the ground. It's balanced and wonderful. AND, unlike the BigMac, I can check it in a case and not be over 50# without removing the bolt or the bipod or buttstock or something. AND, I can get a 50 BMG conversion if I want to go back to the ultimate hard hitter. (I also have a Barrett 82A1 to play with for kicks for now.)
At the advice of members on the Hide and ar15.com and longrangehunting.com, I chose the Spuhr base/rings in High (1.48" IIRC), 34 mm and 44 MOA cant. Worried that it would not be tall enough, I tried to order the ultra high (1.89") but mile high shooting said they have not yet received their first shipment, and Midway let me order it but sent me the High (Part number 4802) instead of what I ordered (Ultra high, part number 4804), so I had to send it back and they also don't have 4804 yet it appears - inventory error.
The NF ATACR with MOAR reticle JUST BARELY fits. I can run about 6 sheets of paper between the sunshade and the rail, but not more. This is fine, and is good for cheek weld, but does not allow any sort of lens cover to be affixed to the scope. This is with the scope back as far in the mount as I could mount it, see photos. I won't comment on the scope more until I use it in daylight, but to be honest I'm an old school MOA SFP guy and a NF fanboy, so my opinions shouldn't carry much weight around here anyway, if my reading of most posts is any guide.
The leveling device that comes with the Spuhr mount is indeed helpful, if only to prevent the scope from rotating while you're tightening the rings. (GOD is that frustrating!) I confirmed leveling with independent levels on the top rail and a plumb line 25 yards out in the garage. (Wife not happy that this project took place on the kitchen table.) I used red locktite on all the screws and torqued the ring screws to 20 inch pounds and the cross bolts to 5.25 NM.
I'm a huge fan of the Spuhr mount so far. Seems totally awesome. But, as others have noted, the level is not visible when in the shooting position with cheek weld, so I may end up adding a scope tube mounted level at a later time if this remains an issue on the range and in the field.
The LRA bipod is also well made and bombproof, but I wish it canted right and left further and that you could apply tension to make canting under tension but not totally locked down (and that it was not $450). If this is an issue in the field, I'll try an Atlas next.
I adjusted the trigger to the minimum travel and pull weight. I'm accustomed to Jewell triggers. This trigger is very nice, but it's no "jewel". It is similar to the Timney on the Tac-50 which was set at 3.5# (impossible to adjust mine lower) and had minimal creep and travel. At the lowest setting on the DTA HTI, my RCBS (junk) trigger pull gauge measures exactly 3#. But it feels fine, and I accepted the bullpup trigger when I got this, so it's GTG as far as I'm concerned so far.
After I set the scope up leveled and with proper eye relief, I did a manual bore sighting at 25 yards. If that is close at a 100 yard zero, I will have 91 MOA elevation travel remaining to work with in the scope. Add 20 MOA for holdover with the MOAR reticle at full power, and 40 MOA at 12.5 power (and I guess 80 MOA at 6.25x if my math serves me) and I can easily get to 3000 yards with a 350 grain projectile with BC 0.80 and a nominal 3100 FPS.
Now, don't think that that is my intention - hey, I'm just a newbie plinker! But if you WERE "shooting for" 3000+ yards, this setup could get you there and beyond. (Incidentally, my Ballistic program for iPad maxes out at 3000 yards.)
I got some ammo from DTA (DTM). The 352 grain copper solid that supposedly goes 3080 with BC 0.89 IIRC in the Brass that starts with B, I forget. I also got some ammo from CheyTac, 350 SMKs in Jamison brass. In the next few days I will test those loads on the range and chrono them. Locally I have only 800 yards to work with and there's a wind advisory up to 60 MPH for the next 48 hours so we'll have to see. When I have useful results to report, I'll follow up on this thread.
Thanks guys for being such a great source of information the past few years!
~SOA
PS - being a newb, I can't figure out how to post the pics from photobucket.....help solicited....