Is there a consensus as to how best to work up an optimal load for a new rifle/caliber/barrel?

[want2learn]

I've read a couple of long range shooting books and there seems to be a number of different ways to develop an optimal load.

It would seem to me that shooters have been doing this since almost forever.....and as such i can't help but wonder if there is a recent consensus as to which methodology not only works best but is also most efficient.

There seems to be some aspects that are particularly challenging for me.

For example, several sources recommend first identifying which projectile to use. As i will only be shooting steel or paper i can certainly limit my choices here somewhat yet, reportedly individual barrels even within a single source prefer different weight projectiles. With so many options available where does one start? I appreciate the important contribution of ballistic coefficients and would tend to err toward more favorable values.

Then which powder to opt for...as again, many powders are often advocated for a particular caliber.

Once these parameters have been identified then there is the search for the optimal load....ladder testing? OCW testing?

Finally somewhere amongst all of this is Seating depth, COAL and Distance to lands, chronographic data etc.

My objective is to try to shoot tiny groups at ever increasing distances..which in reality means 100- 800 yards, paper and steel targets. The reason for the post is i've purchased a new barrel in a new caliber for my rifle...i am changing from a .308 Winchester to a 6.5x47 Lapua bolt action.

Thanks....

to all, have a Safe and Happy 4th

 

[Sheldon N]

i can't help but wonder if there is a recent consensus as to which methodology not only works best but is also most efficient.

No, there is no consensus. ?

 

[supercorndogs]

Nope, not even close.

 

[Ryridesmotox]

Maybe the manufacturer of the barrel can point you in a direction. Some cut the chambers for a certain bullet.

I try to use easily accessible powders that are readily available at one of my local shops.

And I use OCW myself.

 

[Steel head]

Ladder
OCW
Satterlee
Latterlee
OCLadderlee

 

[bsekf]

Have you considered the "Berger" method? Pick a "middle of the road" powder and charge and test seating depth, then tweak for powder and charge.

 

[want2learn]

interesting....
haven't yet received the barrel so all this is quite new to me

 

[Doom]

As for methods, pick one and follow it.

You will want to find match style bullets that will match the twist of your barrel. For 800yds you don't need heavy weight bullets.

Once you’re armed with that info you simply go to the powder manufacturer’s site (or bullet) and see what powders match your bullet and caliber.

Here is a good starting point, though a little dated:

You are being redirected...

 

[LeadZeke]

There are several different methods and many variables to play with. Just pick one and remember that consistency is the key.

 

[Supersubes]

Nope!

 

[Ledzep]

There are enough knobs to turn and people are looking for different things that I doubt it will ever get standardized. Looking for the highest and/or lowest-sloped peak in a plot that probably has over 10 dimensions and is different for every barrel.

 

[65shootmoor]

Set the rifle up for how you want to use. The barrel maker will be able to set you up with a barrel length/twist combo that will work for your needs. Once to load development, the common thread seems to be speed at safe pressures. How much speed will be determined by the caliber and projectile wait. You will want that speed to be as consistent as possible so good calls are possible. In the end, it won't much matter how you got the speed as long as it's safe and accurate. While I've seen a particular load start off or go to crap based on charge weight, I have yet to find one that didn't have a sweet spot with whatever powder I tried, they just took more work finding it. Starting with the most used powders (H4350, Varget, RL16, etc - assuming your chosen round uses them) will be an easier time since there is already so much data available. You still have to start slow, backed way off the maxs, and work up. If you started with quality parts and used equal quality supplies, you'll find an accurate load that is consistent and safe.

 

[pmclaine]

Jst use the best scientific principals available and shoot a bunch of shit, when you finally settle on what you declare the perfect round you will than need to rebarrel and start again.

I like reloading for the experimentation but hate it for the same reason.

If in doubt just by Federal Gold Medal Match and you will be happy.

 

[want2learn]

pmclaine, i was honestly laughing out loud when i read you response...that's exactly what happened when working up my .308
by the time i got to a load i was somewhat satisfied with it was time to rebarrel...or so it feels.

 

[clcustom1911]

For me. I look at the load data from a couple/few sources. For my 6.5 Creedmoor, I shoot 6 different bullets:

Hornady ELD Match 147g
Norma Golden Target 130g
Nosler RDF 130g
JLK 130 VLD
Barnes 120 TTSX (California hunting)
Hornady 120 GMX (California Hunting)

Over the last several years I have accumulated assorted knowledge about what powders do well for the 6.5 Creedmoor (and likely other similar cartridges in the 6.5 family... 6.5x47 included):

I believe these are in correct order from fastest to slowest starting with 4064:

IMR 4064
BL-C(2)
IMR 4895
Reloder 16
H4350
Reloder 17
Reloder 19
Reloder 26

My process is simple. I consult 3-4 different sources of factory load data for a given powder and bullet weight. If the range starts at 38 and goes up to 43. I'll load 3-5 rounds starting at 40gr and work up in .2gr increments up to 43 or maybe 43.4 or 43.6. All bullets are loaded .020" off the lands. I strap on the MagnetoSpeed, shoot a couple sighting rounds to get dialed in, then sequentially shoot the 3-5 rounds at individual spots on my target (3/4" orange dots). 100 yards.

As I shoot, I am inspecting the casing for any signs of excessive pressure on the primer, extraction, etc. If I start getting sticky bolt or sticky extraction for one complete string of a charge, I stop. The group(s) that get the best velocity data and smallest groups get a re-test of 10 rounds each to confirm/deny the accuracy/velocity data.

That's me. Some guys do more, some do less.

Generally speaking, you want a faster powder with a lighter bullet because the bullet has a smaller bearing surface in the barrel and causes less friction, therefore you want a quicker burning powder. Using BL-C(2) with the 130 Foster's and their short bearing surface is fine and dandy, but using the exact same charge with a Norma Golden Target 130g shows pressure because the Norma has a longer bearing surface.

On the other side of the coin, the heavier/longer bullets get the slower powder because they create more friction and give more time to travel down the barrel.

Powders I've found that work well all around the bullets I use are H4350, Reloder 16, 17, 19. Reloder 26 is clearly manufactured from Unicorn Dandruff and shines with the 147's.