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JP silent Capture/ POF Rogue 6.5 cm

Semomike

Private
Minuteman
Mar 29, 2020
51
18
My Rogue is currently back at POF getting a couple issues fixed. It is primarily a coyote hunting gun and mostly with thermal scope on it. Was thinking I might pick one of the JP buffer springs to see if it will take a little recoil out of it. I do run it suppressed always.

Anyone tried this with any success? I wonder if it will cause feeding issues? This rifle has been finicky already.
 
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What sort of feeding issues are you having?

Have you tried different magazines?

A good muzzle brake is going to be the most effective way to reduce recoil (your hunting partners may not like it)

SCS can smooth out the recoil impulse but based on the pdf I attached you will need a spacer behind the SCS.

That being said I would not make any major changes till you can get it running reliably in close to stock configuration. A couple of the guys here have these rifles hopefully they will chime in.
 

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  • CMR-vs-P415-Buffer-Comparison-20200910.pdf
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Be careful changing it out to a captured buffer system. Fairly certain the buffer tube length is non standard and you’d need to shim the difference to bring it to a normal length.

I personally run a griffin SOB (suppressor optimized buffer) with the stock spring and then a fully vented superlative agb. Only Shoot it suppressed with my Diligent defense Enticer LTI and seems to work well enough, still slightly overgassed but brass is fine and not showing any signs of issues
 
I had a reoccurring issue of upon loading the bolt wouldn't go into battery and couldn't be unloaded. To the point I would have to use a lever (screwdriver) to pry the bolt open while having someone else pull on the charging handle. This was clean and dirty. Created a fairly dangerous situation in the field and often in the dark.

I would sometimes experience stovepipe issues.

Lastly, I wasn't terribly impressed in the accuracy. I did finally get some Barnes to run close to MOA, but with most box ammo wouldn't get close to a 2" group.

Hopefully POF gets this straightened out for me as I love the platform for coyote hunting and want to take it hog hunting when I get it straightened out.

If this doesn't fix it, I'm going to send it down the road and get a Ruger SFAR.

I've read the buffer and spring are proprietary, but I'm trying to get some more accuracy out of it.

Soon as I can get my hands on some 6.5 Eldvt I'm going to see if I can get a load worked up for it
 
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Dang, that’s very unfortunate, I’ve had great luck and accuracy with mine. I’m just waiting for the snow to melt a bit so I can complete my review, still need to accuracy test a few more loads.

I’d seriously ask them to look at the barrel as well. Mine is consistently a sub moa shooter with 130-140 match grade ammo and the AAC 140 bthp and smks. Here’s an example of what I have gotten with AAC 140’s 11 shot group at 100
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1700.jpeg
    IMG_1700.jpeg
    1.3 MB · Views: 63
My Rogue is currently back at POF getting a couple issues fixed. It is primarily a coyote hunting gun and mostly with thermal scope on it. Was thinking I might pick one of the JP buffer springs to see if it will take a little recoil out of it. I do run it suppressed always.

Anyone tried this with any success? I wonder if it will cause feeding issues? This rifle has been finicky already.
I went to a tubbs flat wire buffer spring, and it surprisingly made a ton of difference.

I also run a dictator gas block, made a difference as well.

ARBUFSRTubb
Precision AR-10 Flatwire Buffer Spring (Fits both Carbine and Standard length stocks)
 
My intention is to run it suppressed when it returns, so using a different muzzle device outside of one for my suppressers isn't really an option. I do have the dictator adj gas block on it already.

I'm hoping POF gets to looking at this soon, as the status in their warranty work software hasn't changed in 2 weeks. Although when I called to check on it they are saying 30 to 45 business days to get it looked at. I actually sent my suppressor with it per their request in order to supposedly "optimize" it. I guess I'll wait and see.

Right now this gun has been replaced by my 22 ARC that I put together myself and it runs like a top and the faxom barrel shoots pretty good with factory ammo..

I also picked up a used DD5v3 in 308 at my lgs and it also seems to run really good. I might start shooting that at coyotes as well.
 
I'm in the middle of trying to figure out how to modify my JP SCS to work with my Revolution DI. I like the idea of being able to fiddle with not only buffer weight but spring tension. While the rifle runs fine, it chews the crap out of the brass (shaves off and raises up material off the base) and I've not been able to tune that out with the stock system. Does it with factory and hand loads. I've tried three bolts and two barrels, still does it even with a bolt that's been in use for a long time.

The Rogue/Revolution DI both use a buffer tube that's .5" longer than your standard mil-spec buffer tube, coming in at 7.75" for the POF. The spring is also longer and I don't think anyone makes a compatible springs in various rates both firmer and softer for tuning.

My JP was originally for a suppressed SBR so slightly heavier than normal buffer and I believe a slightly stronger spring vs. the standard offering. I then purchased the conversion parts for a 308 which consist of a much shorter back stop, new springs, a spacer, etc...If you drop the 308 configuration in the POF buffer tube, it comes up about .48" short of where it should interface with the back of the carrier. Using the supplied spacer, drilled out so the rod can travel through it, there's a touch of preload (compression) on the JP spring. Ok great, instructions say to remove some material until it sits flush where it would mate with the back of the carrier.

On top of that, if you fully compress the JP spring and then slide the carrier over the rod, the rod will impact the back of the firing pin. Not good and shaving down the spacer would shorten the distance between the rod and the firing pin.

Here's two photos of the JP SCS, spring removed with the weight at the bottom of the system like it's fully compressed, showing the overlap between the JP rod and firing pin. This is with the bolt rotated back so that's the furthest the back of the firing pin can extend theoretically.
IMG_6115.jpg

IMG_6116.jpg



We're looking at an overlap of slightly less than half an inch with the bolt rotated back and less with it moved forward, (.360"). By cutting down the spacer to remove any preload, the amount of overlap grows. Even if you went with a VLTOR A5 buffer tube which is .5" longer, you'd be cutting it pretty close assuming the JP mass bottoms out and the bolt moves all the way to the back.

Maybe the bolt doesn't move all the way back, I can't say. I'd think if you had a hot load and too much gas, it could happen pretty easily. The nylon spacer doesn't give me a lot of comfort as I'm sure it'll compress over time and could get chewed up as well.

Seems to me, for reliability, the entire system would need to be redesigned and the metal portion that would normally sit against the back of the carrier would need to be lengthened the appropriate amount, the rod slightly shortened and the weights adjusted to compensate for the increased mass of the extended metal face. At the very least, with the A5 carrier, you could use a 1.25" spacer at the front and it would work. I know aluminum will compress, maybe a titanium spacer? I have an extra tungsten and steel weight so I might be able to compensate.
 
Are you using the Tubb spring with the OE buffer? I tried an H2 yesterday with the stock spring and it was less damaging on the brass but conflicted with my gas settings. Using a Riflespeed and I'd just switched to a longer gas regulation pin. Need to go back to the previous size with a heavier buffer so the gas settings are in a more optimal range on the dial. I may try an H1 buffer, I have a few Odin adjustable buffers. Tubbs on order while I figure out the JP.

Some guys are using a hydraulic buffer but I've always thought those were snake oil and does nothing for fine tuning the actual operation of the gas system.
 
Are you using the Tubb spring with the OE buffer? I tried an H2 yesterday with the stock spring and it was less damaging on the brass but conflicted with my gas settings. Using a Riflespeed and I'd just switched to a longer gas regulation pin. Need to go back to the previous size with a heavier buffer so the gas settings are in a more optimal range on the dial. I may try an H1 buffer, I have a few Odin adjustable buffers. Tubbs on order while I figure out the JP.

Some guys are using a hydraulic buffer but I've always thought those were snake oil and does nothing for fine tuning the actual operation of the gas system.
I actually tried the hydraulic buffer in this gun and it 10/10 is a scam.

I’m using the tubbs with an H2 and the pof dictator gas block. Was easy to tune in.

I’ve used this same set up in both 308 and 6.5
No problem either way. Very soft
 
Tubbs installed. Going by how much more of a PITA it is to get inside the buffer tube vs. the OE spring, it's definitely firmer. Will start with an H Buffer to see how the spring only changes things. Will then try H1 and H2 if needed.