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KIDD 10/22 build question advice needed

Jinx703

Private
Minuteman
May 28, 2019
33
13
So I’m “building” (it’s really more like assembling) my first 10/22. This lst year I’ve been addicted to shooting PRS style matches with my RPRR. The local series will allow you to run bolt Saturday and semi Sunday (or vice versa).

I plan on using a Titan stock and KIDD receiver/bolt/trigger/barrel kit (https://www.coolguyguns.com/KIDD-Af...ion-Supergrade-with-Build-Options-_p_172.html). Topped with a vortex viper pst gen 2.

From what I’ve read the 16.5 barrel is the ideal length, correct?

What rings are ideal for a 20moa base?

Anyone run a Kidd set up with a vortex viper on a 20moa base? Is it good our to 500 yards?

Aside from my Arca Swiss rail..... anything I’ve overlooked?

Any issues I can prevent in the “build” process?

I appreciate all advice.
 
Welcome to the wonderful world of building your own 10/22. Just be advised that it can easily become an expensive addiction.

The ideal length is dependent on who you ask. For example, Fred Feddersen says his 16.5 inch barrel is the most accurate. I've read that Tony Kidd recommends the 18 inch barrel. Personally, I ignore what everyone else says and pick the barrel length I want for the specific use which tends to be in the 16.5 inch range. For NRL22 shooting shorter barrels are easier to handle on barricades (such as the ladder) and I will want to use a suppressor eventually.

If you are going to get the Supergrade rather than the Classic fit receiver, go ahead and buy the torque limiting screwdriver that Kidd sells for $25 so that you are consistent which should reduce the amount you need to zero when swapping/cleaning the barrel. Just remember that the Titan stock will need to be drilled if you want to remove the barrel without removing the action which is one of the big selling points of the Supergrade.

I'd go ahead and buy the Victor riser from the get-go unless you have another option you prefer. Since you're buying the Kidd receiver, go ahead and get the rear tang from Victor company.

I bought the Burris XTR Signature Rings (4 pairs to date) which has inserts that allow me to add MOA via the rings so that I can bottom out the scope. This means you can use most of the scopes elevation to shoot longer distances. A rough estimate for 500 yards using standard velocity ammo is 105 MOA or 31 MIL. At that range, you have to use most of the elevation possible in the scope and still have to hold-over unless you have an expensive scope with a lot of elevation adjustment.

The Kidd 2-stage trigger is the best 10/22 trigger I've touched. My personal preference is 8oz/8oz. If you are used to a heavier trigger, it will take some time to get used to (a happy excuse to go shooting). Just remember that although you can adjust the trigger pull yourself, you have the option to ship it back to Kidd and have them adjust the trigger weight for the cost of shipping alone.
 
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Welcome to the wonderful world of building your own 10/22. Just be advised that it can easily become an expensive addiction.

The ideal length is dependent on who you ask. For example, Fred Feddersen says his 16.5 inch barrel is the most accurate. I've read that Tony Kidd recommends the 18 inch barrel. Personally, I ignore what everyone else says and pick the barrel length I want for the specific use which tends to be in the 16.5 inch range. For NRL22 shooting shorter barrels are easier to handle on barricades (such as the ladder) and I will want to use a suppressor eventually.

If you are going to get the Supergrade rather than the Classic fit receiver, go ahead and buy the torque limiting screwdriver that Kidd sells for $25 so that you are consistent which should reduce the amount you need to zero when swapping/cleaning the barrel. Just remember that the Titan stock will need to be drilled if you want to remove the barrel without removing the action which is one of the big selling points of the Supergrade.

I'd go ahead and buy the Victor riser from the get-go unless you have another option you prefer. Since you're buying the Kidd receiver, go ahead and get the rear tang from Victor company.

I bought the Burris XTR Signature Rings (4 pairs to date) which has inserts that allow me to add MOA via the rings so that I can bottom out the scope. This means you can use most of the scopes elevation to shoot longer distances. A rough estimate for 500 yards using standard velocity ammo is 105 MOA or 31 MIL. At that range, you have to use most of the elevation possible in the scope and still have to hold-over unless you have an expensive scope with a lot of elevation adjustment.

The Kidd 2-stage trigger is the best 10/22 trigger I've touched. My personal preference is 8oz/8oz. If you are used to a heavier trigger, it will take some time to get used to (a happy excuse to go shooting). Just remember that although you can adjust the trigger pull yourself, you have the option to ship it back to Kidd and have them adjust the trigger weight for the cost of shipping alone.


Thank you for taking the time to respond in such detail.

For the rings...... they’re 30mm tubes..... I see they have 1, 1.25 & 1.5 height rings. Do you have a suggestion?
 
You're welcome!

I'm using a couple of Athlon scopes (Midas TAC/Ares BTR) with sunshades attached mounted on Kidd 20 MOA rails with the Burris XTR Signature 30mm 1-inch high (Burris part number 420221) rings. The sunshades are very close to the barrel, but have not been an issue. Because of the angle of the camera, this picture looks closer that it actually is:

proof10-22_2-jpg.7100344
 
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Bill, how does that proof barrel shoot? Do you have several 5 shot groups on one target to show?

As for rings I am a big fan of Burris Signature Series also. For 34mm I get the ones like shown on Bills rifle. For 30mm and 1" I prefer the other Burris Signature style because they only have 4 cap screws instead of 6..
 
The Proof has a cold bore drop of the first round 1 MIL at 100 yards. If you heat the barrel up enough (i.e. shoot 50 rounds only pausing to reload the mag each 10 rounds), you'll see a 2/10ths of a MIL rise about zero. Otherwise it's very accurate. Since it was a pain in the rear to get the Proof into the Kidd receiver requiring the barrel to be cooled, the receiver heated (in an oven), and still needed a lot of force to drive it in, I'm hesitant to try and remove the barrel before exhausting all options. I may have to take Proof up on their offer to let me ship the barrel and receiver and let them handle it.

I don't normally take pictures of targets; It just doesn't occur to me. I was shooting a new 8-target KYL rack (2", 1.75", 1.5", 1.25", 1", .75", .5", .25") Saturday setup at 75 yards. The first mag it took 10 rounds to finish all 8 targets. Out of 50 rounds, I only cleared the rack 2 times (first and last mags) with 9 hits the other times. I couldn't see the misses, but dialed the scope down two tenths on the last mag and was hitting more consistently. When I went to pickup the rack, I noted that many of the shots were above the target. I had been scoring hits hitting the stem above the target on several of the rounds fired. Something to remember, I'm not that great of marksman.

In a NRL22 match, there is enough time between the stages for the barrel to cool where I may see some drop in the first round of the mag, but haven't run into any issue with the barrel heating to the point where I see a rise above zero with only 10 rounds.
 
Bill, you need a back drop for the KYL targets. Mine is a steel plate angled at 45° and I paint it white to see the misses.

I'll post some photos later, something is wrong with the site now can I can't upload anything.
 
I don't have my own personal range or else I'd have things setup where I could easily see the misses. There's not enough property here to setup even a short range. Living directly across the street from the local high school, they might frown upon me shooting in the yard.
 
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