Gunsmithing KMW logger head

[eodusa]

Installation on a Grayboe stock. Notice how the back end of the stock is hollowed in the manufacturing process. Has any one filled this us with construction foam? I'm an amateur and the hardest part was cutting out the cheek piece straight. Need a band saw with wire blade.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[eodusa]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Sierra770]

You certainly deserve kudos for going headlong into the process. Keep us posted on the progress.

What did you use to cut the stock?

 

[Terry Cross]

I am absolutely not an authority on "converting" the Grayboe from fixed comb to adjustable (that honor would fall to Joe Ducos) but I do have some opinions to share.

Any of the fixed comb stocks that you seek to convert should have any voids in the butt filled prior to cutting for the lower hardware assembly of ANY type of hardware including the LoggerHead. Longevity and function of the hardware once installed is likely your biggest priority with cosmetics coming in a close second.

The Grayboes will vary quite a bit on the internal voids encountered once the desired comb area is sectioned from the stock. Attached is a pic of the voids extending fore and aft of the necessary inlet cut for the LoggerHead. The voids were filled only at each end of the track which is where the LoggerHead clamp is designed to anchor.

The other pic is with the clamp installed and starting to get cosmetic cleanups to the installation.

One more note is that when you "convert" a stock by cutting the comb out, your newly sectioned cheek piece will want to sit too far down (top of it below flush with the remaining comb lines) once if it is dropped back to an All the Way Down position. This distance below flush will be equal to the amount of material removed by the cutting process or kerf width of your blade or water jet.

Almost all converted stocks will never have their cheek pieces moved anywhere close to all the way down again as getting the comb higher was the reason for the work in the first place. That being said, I did not like the idea of the possibility of the below flush condition. My response to that was to decrease the depth of the upper assembly pocket into the bottom of the newly sectioned cheek piece by the amount of material removed in the cut. In the case of the stock pictured, it was 0.065".

The last picture is of the assembled upper assembly with the face plate sitting in the inlet properly cut 0.065" shallower than normal. The plate will act as a stop against the clamp and keep the top comb lines parallel if the cheek ever goes all the way down.

 

[eodusa]

I cut the cheek piece out with a wood handsaw. Go slow. I also used two aluminum angle plate as vice jaws - this way the jaws set the line as i cut across horizontally. I messed up a bit and had a "thicker kerf" as Terry said. I lost about 0.15" of material but it doesn't matter - I was intending to make the cheek piece higher. The logger head is awesome as you can adjust left & right to set your eye behind the scope without rotating your head too much.

. Marine Tex is awesome. Fills up all your mistakes.

 

[JWG284]

I have done the same with a Manners T4. I cut out my cheek piece with a coping saw. I put painters tape over the proposed cut, drew lines to cut, took a shot or two, wiped the sweat off my forehead, and started cutting. Once completed the cutout, I sanded and put deacon wth a ruler taped to cheek piece to fill in the kerf width. Bedding compound will fix any screw ups as well.

Once you get over cutting up a perfectly good $800 stock, there is nothing to it.

 

[NewsShooter]

I'd use microspheres and epoxy to fill the voids. Tap Plastics will have them if they're in the area.

 

[northern50]

Keep on keepin on! There's no going back now. Always remember, it's only fiber glass and epoxy, you can always add more and sand it back off.

Kmw hardware is my favorite, Terry is a cool dude. I've put three different sets in various TRG stocks. One of the best mods I've come up with. Milling into my Trg for the first time was a bit nerve racking, with good planning all is easy in the end. Keep us posted and kick some ass with it. Fun stuff.