I have a Grayboe Renegade that I wanted to upgrade with an adjustable cheek piece. I haven't seen much out there with information on how to install the loggerhead adjustable cheek hardware so I thought I would do a write up in the event others are considering the upgrade. Some of the steps are missing, but I'll try to explain as best I can what I did.
Step 1: Pucker up!
Mark out where you want your cuts to be on the stock. I used a pencil with a ruler and then painters tape to mark out the cut lines. I went a bit further and actually taped some milling vice parallels along the taped lines so that the saw would have a solid guide to cut along. In other pics, I have seen where the saw would "wander" and create crooked lines. I didn't want that. Metal rulers, scrap metal, etc. would all work fine as well. I picked up a dovetailing saw as well as a coping saw from the hardware store that I used to cut the stock. The resin stock cuts fairly easily (WARNING: too easily if you are aggressive. Take your time).
Just a side note: While the dovetail saw was super thin and made beautiful lines, it was too thin for the coping saw to follow behind in order to cut the curved corners. Doing this again, I would just use the coping saw.
Step 2: Fill the voids:
I do not have a picture of this but I think it's important to fill any voids. I had a channel that was exposed in the middle of the stock once I completed the cut. I cleaned it out and then mixed JB Weld and poured into the channel. I let it sit for 24 hours before I came back to it.
Step 3: Mark and Drill/Mill your hardware location(s).
I started with the cheek piece and used a Mill. I have a little machine shop in my garage that I used to make knives in the past so I just used what I had. A drill with a hand file or a router would work too, though it would take longer. I marked the lines for the piece I wanted to inset after measuring the thickness so that I knew what my cutting depth should be. If you are anal retentive... use a 1/4" endmill since the corners of the KWM hardware for the cheek have a 1/4" radius.
Step 1: Pucker up!
Mark out where you want your cuts to be on the stock. I used a pencil with a ruler and then painters tape to mark out the cut lines. I went a bit further and actually taped some milling vice parallels along the taped lines so that the saw would have a solid guide to cut along. In other pics, I have seen where the saw would "wander" and create crooked lines. I didn't want that. Metal rulers, scrap metal, etc. would all work fine as well. I picked up a dovetailing saw as well as a coping saw from the hardware store that I used to cut the stock. The resin stock cuts fairly easily (WARNING: too easily if you are aggressive. Take your time).
Just a side note: While the dovetail saw was super thin and made beautiful lines, it was too thin for the coping saw to follow behind in order to cut the curved corners. Doing this again, I would just use the coping saw.
Step 2: Fill the voids:
I do not have a picture of this but I think it's important to fill any voids. I had a channel that was exposed in the middle of the stock once I completed the cut. I cleaned it out and then mixed JB Weld and poured into the channel. I let it sit for 24 hours before I came back to it.
Step 3: Mark and Drill/Mill your hardware location(s).
I started with the cheek piece and used a Mill. I have a little machine shop in my garage that I used to make knives in the past so I just used what I had. A drill with a hand file or a router would work too, though it would take longer. I marked the lines for the piece I wanted to inset after measuring the thickness so that I knew what my cutting depth should be. If you are anal retentive... use a 1/4" endmill since the corners of the KWM hardware for the cheek have a 1/4" radius.
