For those that have had the opportunity to shoot both, I would like to know your opinions if you were going to pick on as your choice to shoot. I know both have their pros and cons but I have yet to shoot a KAC .308.
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No you can't. It's possible you MAY build something that is more accurate or ligher but it will not come close in reliabity or working as an engineered system. People act like these huge company's who dump millions into r&d don't know what makes this platform tick. Everything is a trade-off and there are features that you cannot buy much less do it cheaper. Price out top tier componets or ones you cannot source on the market as comparable. Anyone can put together and AR. Very few do it the correct way using the "right" parts.You can build (or pay to have someone build) an AR10 that will be more accurate, lighter, suppress better, and be just as reliable for the price of either of them. Or you can just get a JP. But if I had to choose, I'd go LMT for the swap. KAC is great, but you can get better if you are willing to put in the time/effort/money.
This is simply incorrect. An AR is not that complicated, and if you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself, there are plenty of great smiths that can ensure perfect fitment and assembly like ADCO, Compass Lake Engineering, Craddock Precision, River's Bend Gun Co, MSTN rifles, and Patriot Valley Arms.
JP, KAC, LMT, what do they all have in common, what did that R&D do? Redesigned the bolt. What can you buy and match to a barrel extension? The JP bolt. So the rifle you build or pay to have built will be as reliable, and can certainly be much lighter and more accurate if using the right parts. That is the reality of the current AR market, 10 years ago it was different but in the era of cheap reliable AGBs and enhanced bolts for sale, the only reason to buy complete from these companies is off the shelf availability and easy of warranty.
"If you go with JP, whole different set of rules".
Primus what exactly do you think is so complicated about an AR? The beauty of the system is its relative simplicity. They have been perfected for 60+ years, we know what makes a reliable rifle, a durable part, and so on. Those excellent smiths do as well. Riddle me this, buy a JP gas block, barrel, bolt, and buffer system. Now pay a pro to put it together (or do it yourself if you have the know how). What would JP do that they didn't? The answer is nothing. This "muh brands" shit has got to die already. Parts are just parts, doesn't matter who's name is stamped on the side if they work properly. It doesn't even have to be a JP if you don't want, you can buy the LMT Enhanced .308 BCG as well. There is no magic voodoo that goes on in any of these shops.
Nik H no one said it is easy nor did I say I wanted to do it for a living. That isn't the argument. I'm not even saying what they charge isn't fair for what THEY need to make a profit. But the AR market as of right now provides options which provide better value and performance, plain and simple.
Please do not misunderstand, I'm not calling an LMT, KAC, or JP a bad rifle. I'm simply stating the basic fact that you can build better for less, which is just a truism in the modern market. Building or hiring a smith isn't for everyone, but folks should know they have the option.
Wow, what a nice ad hominem and strawman, with plenty of BS assumptions thrown in. No Primus, you don't want to give the details because they simply are NOT that complicated. Yes there are plenty of subtitles on large frames, but again quality companies have this down pat, as do the smiths. You don't want to admit that taking high quality parts and sending them to CLE or PVA or other quality smiths (or doing it yourself if you have the know-how) results in a better rifle for less money than a KAC, LMT, or JP right from the factory. You should really read my replies ITT before making such ludicrous claims.
For the 3rd time already, I'm not calling KAC, LMT, JP, and so on bad options. Just that in certain circumstances you can end up with a better rifle for less money and the OP should know that, and that is a fact.
Sure, the key is to use quality components from reliable companies and get a good smith (or again yourself if you are capable which money on this forum are) to build it. While certainly not limited to something like the following, this would be a rifle which would exemplify the traits I've stated ITT:
**Upper**
- Barrel: Proof Research 20in 6.5CM with +2 gas system $829. Or you can have your smith spin up any number of high quality blanks (Bartlien, Krieger, Rock Creek Cut, etc) and use a JP barrel extension, and of course match the bolt.
- Upper: 2a Armament Xanthos $325 (includes lower below). Obviously you'd thermalfit whichever barrel/extension you went with.
- Port Door: V7 lightweight $37.
- Handguard: 2a Armament Xanthos XRVC 15in $264. Or insert your favorite DPMS high handguard here, MI, Odinworks, etc.
- Gas Block: Superlative Arms .875 (or whatever you cut the barrel to, the linked barrel needs .875) clamp on AGB (or SLR if SA is out of stock) $90. Loctited, or set-screw dimple if you want to go that far.
- Bolt Carrier Group: JP High Pressure Enhanced Bolt assembly group $213 + JP Low Mass .308 carrier $267. Can probably find both on sale elsewhere for cheaper. Now this is key, since the bolt and barrel aren't matched (assuming buying linked barrel) the thing to do is to buy the bolt first, and send it in to whomever you get the barrel from to make sure it is matched to the chamber.
- Gas Tube: Comes with barrel. If not using a +2 then the V7 Inconel gas tubes for ~$60.
- Charging Handle: PRI Gas Buster $80, or a BCM if you prefer $50. Radian and Noveske also make nice ones in this price range, but I haven't tested them myself.
- Muzzle Device: Place holder is a V7 titanium 5/8x24 brake, but really whatever suppressor floats your boat. If I were buying today I'd get a Q Trash Panda (instead of my current Omega although the Omega is great).
**Lower**
- Lower Receiver: 2a Armament Xanthos $325 (included above).
- Small Parts: This is where you can save some money by just buying a CMMG or, Aero AR10./308 LPK without the trigger or grip for around $40. But if you want to go all out and save a bit more weight/add a bit more durability you can just get all the V7 titanium shit: V7 Takedown pins $35. V7 Bolt Catch $27. V7 Ambi Safety $59. V7 TI End plate+Castle Nut $59. V7 Buffer retainer $7. V7 TI Grip screw $7. V7 mag catch/release $46. Finished off with a few extra springs.
- Trigger: Hiperfire Eclipse $199, or insert your favorite trigger here.
- Buffer Tube: V7 2055 $79.
- Buffer Weight+Spring: JP SCS Gen 2 $130.
- Stock: Luth-AR Carbine Stock $115.
- Grip: I'm a huge fan of the Hogue 15 degree $17, but there are a ton of great ones out there like the BCM or similar grip $19 (personal preference part).
Total for just the rifle is between $2800-3300 depending on options chosen and it should weight a little under 7lbs. Just to restate what I've already had to say too many times, sending this off to ADCO, Compass Lake Engineering, Whoever Proof Research recommends work on their barrels, Craddock Precision, River's Bend Gun Co, MSTN rifles, and Patriot Valley Arms would net the desired result.
So please Primus, tell me why all of these high quality components from excellent companies put together by an expert smith fails to live up to my claims. Tell me how a JP bolt matched to a JP barrel extension with a JP SCS and an adjustable gas block is somehow going to be less reliable than a JP.
Posts, I disagree, and I am a rifle builder. What you say is very true about a 5.56 gun, but not a .308/7.62. First, they, collectively, are not AR10s. There is very little standardized in the .308 platform, and it matters what barrel, what extension and what bolt you use, much like it matters in headpacing a bolt gun.
I own several LMTs, KAC and LaRue 7.62 rifles. All very well built. The good news with them, is that you can swap some parts around. But you just don't know with an Armalite, a STAG, CMMG, DMPS, etc. If you go with JP, whole different set of rules. Parts are not parts in this rilfe category.
I have spent the last year designing and engineering a barrel and a matching gas block for 7.62. These guns are not mix and match. Each has its own nuance.
Please substantiate the claims you make.
Do you evaluate weapons for a large agency or DoD? How do YOU know what is more reliable or accurate. Please support these claims.
Who the Fuck are you to ask anyone about anything... You've been on SH for all of a minute, and have done nothing to contribute at all !!!
I'm Retired Military with over 10 years in Federal Law Enforcement and was a Armourer at MCB Quantico, and worked with the guys at Crane and Lockheed countless times. So for all of us here on SH PLEASE tells us all who the fuck you are and what gives you the right to fuck with and talk shit to people who you don't even know.
This is the exact reason why there is never a Snipers Hide Members weekend gathering because people like you Penis would get Ventilated.. Oops man down!!
Why do you waste your time talking to that dumb Cunt, Primus is a fucking Tool and he and everyone here knows it. He ridicules you and the merits of building a quality AR Rifle, because he believes companies like Seekins, JP, LMT have some sort of Unicorn Jizz they jerk off in their rifles to make them superior to a quality build. WTF do you think GA Precision does ???? Take some quality Rifles, Rebarrel it and added some quality parts here and there, and called it a GAP10.
Take A look in this Thread .. https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/newbie-question-ar-build.6869102/
I new guy asked for help with a budget Precision orientated rifle and he puts together a shit build sheet for the guy, Fucking Hypocrite!! And when I recommend the Rock River Varmint Rifle which we all know is the best precision off the shelf rifle you can get for a $1000.00 Budget he has the Ignorance to talk shit about that..
Potss you've come along way and learned a lot since you first joined dont, get Trolled by Primus, hopefully Primus will pull his head out of that Putrid Bitch Whore of a Mother's Ass and gets a life.
Sure, the key is to use quality components from reliable companies and get a good smith (or again yourself if you are capable which money on this forum are) to build it. While certainly not limited to something like the following, this would be a rifle which would exemplify the traits I've stated ITT:
**Upper**
- Barrel: Proof Research 20in 6.5CM with +2 gas system $829. Or you can have your smith spin up any number of high quality blanks (Bartlien, Krieger, Rock Creek Cut, etc) and use a JP barrel extension, and of course match the bolt.
- Upper: 2a Armament Xanthos $325 (includes lower below). Obviously you'd thermalfit whichever barrel/extension you went with.
- Port Door: V7 lightweight $37.
- Handguard: 2a Armament Xanthos XRVC 15in $264. Or insert your favorite DPMS high handguard here, MI, Odinworks, etc.
- Gas Block: Superlative Arms .875 (or whatever you cut the barrel to, the linked barrel needs .875) clamp on AGB (or SLR if SA is out of stock) $90. Loctited, or set-screw dimple if you want to go that far.
- Bolt Carrier Group: JP High Pressure Enhanced Bolt assembly group $213 + JP Low Mass .308 carrier $267. Can probably find both on sale elsewhere for cheaper. Now this is key, since the bolt and barrel aren't matched (assuming buying linked barrel) the thing to do is to buy the bolt first, and send it in to whomever you get the barrel from to make sure it is matched to the chamber.
- Gas Tube: Comes with barrel. If not using a +2 then the V7 Inconel gas tubes for ~$60.
- Charging Handle: PRI Gas Buster $80, or a BCM if you prefer $50. Radian and Noveske also make nice ones in this price range, but I haven't tested them myself.
- Muzzle Device: Place holder is a V7 titanium 5/8x24 brake, but really whatever suppressor floats your boat. If I were buying today I'd get a Q Trash Panda (instead of my current Omega although the Omega is great).
**Lower**
- Lower Receiver: 2a Armament Xanthos $325 (included above).
- Small Parts: This is where you can save some money by just buying a CMMG or, Aero AR10./308 LPK without the trigger or grip for around $40. But if you want to go all out and save a bit more weight/add a bit more durability you can just get all the V7 titanium shit: V7 Takedown pins $35. V7 Bolt Catch $27. V7 Ambi Safety $59. V7 TI End plate+Castle Nut $59. V7 Buffer retainer $7. V7 TI Grip screw $7. V7 mag catch/release $46. Finished off with a few extra springs.
- Trigger: Hiperfire Eclipse $199, or insert your favorite trigger here.
- Buffer Tube: V7 2055 $79.
- Buffer Weight+Spring: JP SCS Gen 2 $130.
- Stock: Luth-AR Carbine Stock $115.
- Grip: I'm a huge fan of the Hogue 15 degree $17, but there are a ton of great ones out there like the BCM or similar grip $19 (personal preference part).
Total for just the rifle is between $2800-3300 depending on options chosen and it should weight a little under 7lbs. Just to restate what I've already had to say too many times, sending this off to ADCO, Compass Lake Engineering, Whoever Proof Research recommends work on their barrels, Craddock Precision, River's Bend Gun Co, MSTN rifles, and Patriot Valley Arms would net the desired result.
So please Primus, tell me why all of these high quality components from excellent companies put together by an expert smith fails to live up to my claims. Tell me how a JP bolt matched to a JP barrel extension with a JP SCS and an adjustable gas block is somehow going to be less reliable than a JP. Please tell my why Padom can make .75moa AR10s for $1000 at home, but we are all too dumb? Tell me why CLE uses the DPMS standard parts and turns out reliable hammers, but somehow couldn't do it with the above parts?
What you're saying very well may be true, but my experience with KAC has exposed quite a bit in terms of "truth." Part of the "truth" about KAC is they don't produce a lot of their parts, so no matter how good their engineering *may* be, the "reliability" of their platform comes down to the quality of their subcontracted-out parts. In my case, their own (written) statement was that their BCG supplier provided them with a defective BC. Of course, the thing is back in for service after that "fix" did not completely resolve the problem(s).No you can't. It's possible you MAY build something that is more accurate or ligher but it will not come close in reliabity or working as an engineered system. People act like these huge company's who dump millions into r&d don't know what makes this platform tick. Everything is a trade-off and there are features that you cannot buy much less do it cheaper. Price out top tier componets or ones you cannot source on the market as comparable. Anyone can put together and AR. Very few do it the correct way using the "right" parts.
I was under the impression they make most of their parts in-house however certain things there is no economic reason to make in house. They may also contract with machine shops to make parts based on their specs but if they are doing propper QA then it really minimizes the issue. That is a pretty shitty excuse from CS and I would have been pissed too. They are generally better then that but they know their shit is good and some people there are not very humble about it.
Ironically. KAC was the contracted manufacture for the CRANE/LMT SOPMOD stock. I assume B5 handles that now but who knows. These companies are pretty tight lipped and manufacture sourcing and contracting.
Sure, the key is to use quality components from reliable companies and get a good smith (or again yourself if you are capable which money on this forum are) to build it. While certainly not limited to something like the following, this would be a rifle which would exemplify the traits I've stated ITT:
Total for just the rifle is between $2800-3300 depending on options chosen and it should weight a little under 7lbs. Just to restate what I've already had to say too many times, sending this off to ADCO, Compass Lake Engineering, Whoever Proof Research recommends work on their barrels, Craddock Precision, River's Bend Gun Co, MSTN rifles, and Patriot Valley Arms would net the desired result.
So please Primus, tell me why all of these high quality components from excellent companies put together by an expert smith fails to live up to my claims. Tell me how a JP bolt matched to a JP barrel extension with a JP SCS and an adjustable gas block is somehow going to be less reliable than a JP. Please tell my why Padom can make .75moa AR10s for $1000 at home, but we are all too dumb? Tell me why CLE uses the DPMS standard parts and turns out reliable hammers, but somehow couldn't do it with the above parts?
Why do you waste your time talking to that dumb Cunt, Primus is a fucking Tool and he and everyone here knows it. He ridicules you and the merits of building a quality AR Rifle, because he believes companies like Seekins, JP, LMT have some sort of Unicorn Jizz they jerk off in their rifles to make them superior to a quality build. WTF do you think GA Precision does ???? Take some quality Rifles, Rebarrel it and added some quality parts here and there, and called it a GAP10.
Take A look in this Thread .. https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/newbie-question-ar-build.6869102/
I new guy asked for help with a budget Precision orientated rifle and he puts together a shit build sheet for the guy, Fucking Hypocrite!! And when I recommend the Rock River Varmint Rifle which we all know is the best precision off the shelf rifle you can get for a $1000.00 Budget he has the Ignorance to talk shit about that..
Potss you've come along way and learned a lot since you first joined dont, get Trolled by Primus, hopefully Primus will pull his head out of that Putrid Bitch Whore of a Mother's Ass and gets a life.