Krieger_Tactics
LONG RANGE PRECISION MARKSMANSHIP - PART 5
THE BUILD OUT
LONG RANGE PRECISION MARKSMANSHIP - PART 5
THE BUILD OUT
Krieger
My call sign is Krieger. I am a former Special Forces Soldier (7th Special Forces Group, Ft. Bragg, NC), former security contractor, and current Unconventional Asset Recovery Agent.
LONG RANGE PRECISION MARKSMANSHIP SERIES
This series is dedicated to providing basic instruction and information to beginner and less experienced long distance precision marksmen who utilize either the MIL dot or Duplex style reticle system in order to assist these marksmen in attaining greater proficiency regarding their marksmanship skills and abilities.
My goal is to assist you in learning the principles required in order to effectively engage targets. The utilization of the MIL dot reticle as the foundational reticle system mandates that the marksman himself or herself is the point of information development, and not the scope reticle. In order to engage targets effectively applying this method requires proficiency on the part of the marksman in field craft, calculations, employment of the weapons system and scope: not the other way around.
While the goal of these posts is to provide information in utilizing the MIL dot reticle system, I would have those who read this post be advised that the exact same principles that I describe may also be used with the more “modern” scope reticles.
CONTROVERSIAL
To say that my posts regarding the use of the MIL dot reticle system have been controversial would be a huge understatement. Despite the controversy I have stayed the course of providing information, and TTPs to those that are on this forum in search of the same.
In support of my objective I will be engaging in a systematic build-out, zeroing, and employment of a Long Range Precision Marksmanship Rifle, employing a Mil dot variant scope.
THE BUILD-OUT
1. The Rifle
The rifle that I chose for this build-out is a Remington 700 heavy barrel, 26”. During my military career and while contracting, I employed the 24” version of the Remington 700. This particular gun fired wonderfully and I never had a single issue with this gun. During this same time I worked with several Marine snipers. I felt that their field craft and marksmanship were second to none. During one conversation, I was informed that the Marine snipers employed the 26” version of the Remington 700. sFor me, if the Marines were using the 26” barreled version of the Remington 700 then there was a reason for it and it became the gold standard for me. When I had opportunity, I purchased it.
2. The Scope
The scope that I selected is the Burris XTRII 4-20x50mm. While not specifically a “Mil” dot reticle in its truest, purest form, it still uses “Mil”dots with ½ mil markers/hash marks. For purpose of this series, the important point to be stressed is that the calculations that must be performed are still performed in the mind of the marksman and not inherent in the scope itself
3. The Scope Rings
The scope rings to be utilized are the XTR Burris signature rings (34mm), with customizable cants, which I won’t be utilizing. Since the scope is from Burris, I felt that the most appropriate rings to utilize would be Burris rings. For precision marksmanship I am not a fan of the 1-piece ring set. I believe in having two points of attachment as far apart from each other as possible. I have utilized 1-piece scope rings on weapons. They worked perfectly. For my own build-out, I prefer the old-school 2-piece scope rings.
4. Scope Mount
For the scope mount I will be utilizing the Leupold Remington 700 1-piece rail with 20 MOA of cant. I’ve never used any cant in a long range precision marksmanship weapon. This will be a bit of an experiment. During the testing phase I’ll run some scenarios and see how the canted mount affects employment of the weapon itself.
5. Gun Level
In the past I have only ever used one level and that on the scope itself. For this build out I am utilizing two levels – 1 level for the gun and one level for the scope. For the gun itself, I am using a simple level attached to the back of the 20moa Leupold scope mount. Attached to the scope will be a Tough Tactical Tools 34mm precision scope level. Is it necessary to utilize two levels? No. It is not. Is it necessary to even use 1 level. Nope. It is not. For years military snipers did not use levels, yet their ability to engage targets at extended ranges was superb. However, the addition of a level provides a measure of assurance regarding cant of the weapon that will surely have some productive results. In reality, the only point of the weapon that needs to be “leveled” is the scope. The barrel is symmetrical, so as long as the scope is “true” as tow when it was zero’d, it doesn’t matter what the gun (as long as it is still “trued” to the scope) is doing. With this being the case, why, one might ask am I going to employ a “gun” (scope mounted) level? Simply because, “Why not?” I think it will just be a bit of fun to have it on there and see how it all works out.In actuality, the scope mounted level should (and it’s a very big should) ensure that the gun itself is level when I level the scope to it. With humans being fallible and there being a certain measure or tolerance in the construction of the weapon and the scope mount base itself, there will always be imperfections. So the result is… and will be… subjective. But.. it will still be fun!
TAKEAWAY
As an up and coming military sniper, I was taught methods that allowed me to employ my scope in support of my mission. These lessons were hard learned. While there exists a myriad of “better” scopes, scopes that “do the work for you” I prefer to continue to employ the (old-school, Mil dot) methods that I learned long ago. It is my intent to assist those who are also using or considering using those same "old-school" methods by providing posts in this forum. I believe in these methods in so much that I have invested both time, money and effort in them and I will continue to do so.
FOLLOW
In future posts I will provide a systematic write-up, of setting the gun and scope up, from ground up. I'll cover topics such as ensuring your reticle is vertical during the scope mounting process, and ensuring your eye is centered in the reticle during the scope mounting process. If you've never done these (or other techniques) before (or even if you have) there may be some worthwhile information provided.
QUESTIONS
If you have questions regarding the previous posts, or the build out of this weapon, please feel free to post in the thread or to message me directly. I will do my very best to respond with accurate information.
Respectfully,
-Krieger
Other posts in this series:
Long Range Precision Marksmanship Part 1:
The 7 Yard Zero
https://www.snipershide.com/shootin...nge-marksmanship-part-1.7106280/#post-9945688
Long Range Precision Marksmanship Part 2: Introduction To Holding
https://www.snipershide.com/shootin...introduction-to-holding.7106361/#post-9946992
Long Range Precision Marksmanship: Part 3: Holding From 100 to 1000 Yards
https://www.snipershide.com/shootin...-from-100-to-1000-yards.7107847/#post-9970820
LONG RANGE PRECISION MARKSMANSHIP - PART 4 - READJUSTING POINT OF AIM / POINT OF IMPACT - TEACHING A NEW DOG OLD TRICKS
https://www.snipershide.com/shootin...ng-new-dogs-old-tricks.7112434/#post-10046476
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