LA-101 Lithgow trigger tweak??

[gr8guns]

I got my LA-101 out for the first firing at the range. This rifle shoots pretty good, but the accuracy
is limited by the field grade trigger...........I know I'm not the only one saying that. I have a set of trigger
springs, but I'm not getting all that blue locktite out of the trigger housing retainer screw. What softens this stuff ?
I really don't want to use a lot of heat. Experience, anyone ?

 

[AirGunShawn]

I read your question again... If all you want to do is remove dried Loc-tite.... Chase the threads with a tap.

A couple hundred degrees F wont harm anything in the trigger unit if it is all metal component's. The internet also suggests pure acetone.
The girlfriends finger nail polish is acetone btw..... it's just thickened with something.

That said, you could put it in a Zip-loc bag with the top open and allow the water to expel all of the air and then seal the bag and boil.
They use that technique when cooking Sous-Vide when they don't have a vacuum sealer handy. See the link to perfect meats below.
It retains over 95% of the meat and moisture. It cooks in it's own juice without being diluted by anything else, it cooks beef like the
perfect soft center without the chewy dark 1/4" outer edges. You cook the meat for a couple hours at low heat, say 130F and then you
sear the outer skin in a cast iron pan to carnalize and create the amazing visual effect.
Sous-Vide may be the coolest and tastiest thing you learn this month.

Acetone tends to be pretty aggressive stuff when used on anything gun related like stock finishes or plastics. Acetone has a very low flash
point so keep it away from open flame.
Tempering of steel starts at about 350 F so under that should take care of your issue without harming anything. Then I would run a tap in your
threaded hole to "CHASE" out the threads. As I don't like Loc-tite on anything that may need future adjustment, I would replace the existing
screw with one that has a locking nylon element. Easy to get from McMaster Carr or other supplier.

Below is what they look like in real life. These #6-32s are used to reduce the trigger pull on the Bergara B14R trigger. It was the only way to lower the
pull since the trigger is sealed unit with 7 rivets.

How do you like the gun other than the trigger? I have been looking for one for some time but cant find one with the laminate stock.
If you have a Laminate stock and ever sell it or want a trade, think of me.

Shawn Carroll

Sous Vide Cooking: How to Get Started

Have a new sous vide circulator? Here's an introductory guide to sous vide cooking, including what to try making first.

www.seriouseats.com

 

[gr8guns]

I read your question again... If all you want to do is remove dried Loc-tite.... Chase the threads with a tap.

A couple hundred degrees F wont harm anything in the trigger unit if it is all metal component's. The internet also suggests pure acetone.
The girlfriends finger nail polish is acetone btw..... it's just thickened with something.

That said, you could put it in a Zip-loc bag with the top open and allow the water to expel all of the air and then seal the bag and boil.
They use that technique when cooking Sous-Vide when they don't have a vacuum sealer handy. See the link to perfect meats below.
It retains over 95% of the meat and moisture. It cooks in it's own juice without being diluted by anything else, it cooks beef like the
perfect soft center without the chewy dark 1/4" outer edges. You cook the meat for a couple hours at low heat, say 130F and then you
sear the outer skin in a cast iron pan to carnalize and create the amazing visual effect.
Sous-Vide may be the coolest and tastiest thing you learn this month.

Acetone tends to be pretty aggressive stuff when used on anything gun related like stock finishes or plastics. Acetone has a very low flash
point so keep it away from open flame.
Tempering of steel starts at about 350 F so under that should take care of your issue without harming anything. Then I would run a tap in your
threaded hole to "CHASE" out the threads. As I don't like Loc-tite on anything that may need future adjustment, I would replace the existing
screw with one that has a locking nylon element. Easy to get from McMaster Carr or other supplier.

Below is what they look like in real life. These #6-32s are used to reduce the trigger pull on the Bergara B14R trigger. It was the only way to lower the
pull since the trigger is sealed unit with 7 rivets.

How do you like the gun other than the trigger? I have been looking for one for some time but cant find one with the laminate stock.
If you have a Laminate stock and ever sell it or want a trade, think of me.

Shawn Carroll

Sous Vide Cooking: How to Get Started

Have a new sous vide circulator? Here's an introductory guide to sous vide cooking, including what to try making first.

www.seriouseats.com

I am trying to remove the screw that holds the housing to the receiver. I really like the gun, the weight and and the smoothness of the action. Other than the trigger, it is a joy to shoot. I do have another in the laminated stock, but it will belong to my son. I lowered the trigger pull on my BMR Bergara to 10 ounces, by using a 4-40 tap and a screw. I think the trigger units are the same on my BMR and my B14R. I have to look at the B14R, but right now it is in the dog house.

 

[AirGunShawn]

GR8,

When removing a screw, heat is the place to start. Move the flame over the area until the item is fairly warm. To hot to touch.
The metal has some mass to it so let it soak into it. The part you want to heat is the one that has the threads in it.
Think of a piece of meat.... the outer is done way before the inside is. You want the inside where the threads are to be 125F / 175F.
The Loc-Tite will soften and the screw will come out. Once the screw is out you can chase the threads to get the remainder.

If you use Loc-Tite again, I would suggest #222 purple. They call it low strength but it is plenty for nearly any gun item. Small screws
only require a very small drop or you can strip the heads out. I often use Allen Bow String wax for gun screws. It is tacky
enough to hold screws in place.

I like my B14R as much as my Vudoo.
I should have asked if your in the USA first. I would like to get a 101A. I don't own a rear lug gun yet and cant find one on Gun Broker.

You may be able to get a really nice deal for your Laminate in cash or trade. ;-)

Best of luck
Shawn Carroll

 

[allan harris]

Shawn's advice is sound. The only thing I would add is make sure you use a good quality correctly fitting bit when removing that screw. More than one has been destroyed by ham fisted owners down here. Both mine were very tight to crack. I used 2.00 NM torque and purple to re-fit. The LA101 trigger will go reliably to approx. 16 ozs. and later models seem to have a cleaner break than rifles built prior to 2015. One of mine is fitted with a sear adjustment screw to virtually eliminate creep and the other only required spring changes to finish up with a decent trigger. I've posted some detailed information re these triggers on RFC. I have a clever friend who has an Anschutz 5018 in his so anything is possible if you have the skills and equipment!!!

 

[AirGunShawn]

Allan,
Does this happen to be your friends LA101? In any case, it's a pretty gun !!
It looks like this one has been converted to a single shot as well.

Shawn's advice is sound. The only thing I would add is make sure you use a good quality correctly fitting bit when removing that screw. More than one has been destroyed by ham fisted owners down here. Both mine were very tight to crack. I used 2.00 NM torque and purple to re-fit. The LA101 trigger will go reliably to approx. 16 ozs. and later models seem to have a cleaner break than rifles built prior to 2015. One of mine is fitted with a sear adjustment screw to virtually eliminate creep and the other only required spring changes to finish up with a decent trigger. I've posted some detailed information re these triggers on RFC. I have a clever friend who has an Anschutz 5018 in his so anything is possible if you have the skills and equipment!!!

 

[allan harris]

Yes it is. It belongs to my friend Jason Lowe who makes some innovative accessories for many brands of rifle. Jason and I go back a fair way and both enjoy "upgrading" bolt action 22's by any manufacturer that we think makes an action worthy of a few improvements.
That rifle features a Lilja 4 groove tight bore, barrel bedding block, installed into a custom stock, 5018 trigger modification & single shot loading tray.
I own my share of so called high end Euro & USA built rim fires.
I had a full custom done on one LA101 by an experienced rim fire smith - Match chambered premium barrel, bedded, trigger work etc which came in at approx. 60% of the cost of a Vudoo landed in Australia. The second rifle pictured is my "pretty" LA101 bedded into a walnut stock - Only mods to this one are a re-crown and trigger work. This rifle runs flawlessly and accuracy is on a par with my 1710 DHB's with selected lots of Lapua.
I'm currently running 14 "quality" rim fires. The laminated LA101 will function with the best of them and with matched ammo, nothing I currently have will consistently outshoot it.
Allan.

Home

Shooting products and rifle products for smallbore and air rifle

loweyproducts.com

 

[AirGunShawn]

Hello Allen,

I must say that you and Jason have great taste in rimfires. I like the shape, the colors and mostly the accuracy. There are certain guns that
I'm drawn to and I don't even question why. The LA 101 is that type of gun. Both of yours are very appealing to my eye.

I like the colorful products that Lowey makes. I certainly like great wood and color case hardening but some color can really add some character
to your toys. It wouldn't look right on my NJR .177 caliber air rifle. ( Pic #1 ) I like the blue on my Vudoo. It is NRA blue. I was considering USMC red or
Corvette yellow.

I had that Vudoo for about 18 months and could never get it to shoot better than 8mm ctc. at 50 meters. Even while getting lot tested at Lapua.

I can shoot that well with my B14R with un-tested Center X, shooting from a trashy, wobbly plastic table. Given her $3300.00 price tag, I expected
better than that. It went back to Vudoo and lot testing three times and finally I had to let her go. Other than the accuracy disappointment,
she was very nice. I loved the 700 foot print that allows for any configuration I could dream of.

The fit, finish, customer service and the quality of every thing they made. It was all top shelf stuff.

Sadly, I have 9 guns that outshoot the V22. They are all fairly cheap or old production guns. My Springfield 1922 mk2 shoots .53 ctc. even with
the Merit peep sights and my 60 year old eye's . I need to put a 5-50x56 Trijicon on her to test her actual potential. Actually I'm surprised at how well
some of the old rim fires shoot with a 50 X scope on them. Like my Winchester pre A 52. Given the old stuff shoots so well, I'm not sure why the
current stuff doesn't function flawlessly. Given the lessons they should have learned and the examples they have...... Neglecting ammo variation.

I have read a lot of posts that complain about FTE unfired cartridges in various rifles, lately the B14R. Mine has zero issues.
I'm really shocked to hear the BR guy's say that in a dedicated BR gun with a tight chamber, it is normal and you just have to live with it.

I think that is nuts.... I use my Springfield 1922 mk2 extractor as an example. It will pull any cartridge out of the chamber.
They paid attention to the extractor when they designed it. It has a lot of cartridge overlap, crisp hooks and a heavy leaf spring
design and follows the contour of the case wall. I even put a cartridge in it and bent it over until the case bottom tore off.

The B14R has an extractor clearance slot of about .180". The extractor is only .060" thick. A smith could easily stack two factory
extractors and mill the existing extractor slot to .125". The slot and extractor would still clear by around .028" top and bottom.
I'm surprised that so many people close their eyes and tolerate poor quality workmanship because the masses say it cant be helped.

Sorry about my revulsion of sub par workmanship. I would resolve it purely out of pride.

More importantly... do you know if getting a 101 from your part of town to the USA is possible? I would pay an extra $200.00
if I had to. I have plenty of pistols to sell to offset the extra cost.
If you think of any way for me to get a 101, please email me. See my glider photo for info.

Thank you very much
Shawn Carroll
Unlimited "B" class PCP.

 

[iceng]

To answer original OP question. Acetone removes the blue gunk, its an allen key head, metric. I used to make new drop in trigger replacements, but stopped doing it as there wasnt enough market for it.

If you do a trigger job, check the safety properly. They had a tendancy to "let go" over time.
I stick to making alloy bolt shrouds, knobs and all sizes of pic-rails for the LA101 rather than trigger upgrades.

 

[oldfatguy]

GR8,

When removing a screw, heat is the place to start. Move the flame over the area until the item is fairly warm. To hot to touch.
The metal has some mass to it so let it soak into it. The part you want to heat is the one that has the threads in it.
Think of a piece of meat.... the outer is done way before the inside is. You want the inside where the threads are to be 125F / 175F.
The Loc-Tite will soften and the screw will come out. Once the screw is out you can chase the threads to get the remainder.

If you use Loc-Tite again, I would suggest #222 purple. They call it low strength but it is plenty for nearly any gun item. Small screws
only require a very small drop or you can strip the heads out. I often use Allen Bow String wax for gun screws. It is tacky
enough to hold screws in place.

I like my B14R as much as my Vudoo.
I should have asked if your in the USA first. I would like to get a 101A. I don't own a rear lug gun yet and cant find one on Gun Broker.

You may be able to get a really nice deal for your Laminate in cash or trade. ;-)

Best of luck
Shawn Carroll

Have used a pencil soldering iron to heat screws for easy removal.

OFG

 

[AirGunShawn]

OFG,
I can't imagine why your idea would not be the best way in many applications. The heat control would be fantastic.

I happen to have a fastener now that won't come out. It is an M16 and about 8mm long. I altered a hardened socket
for its' slot drive. That won't get it out. Then I put it in my 18 volt hammer drill and still had no success. The applied heat
was too hot to touch even 2.5 inches from the fastener. NO good. I have done that at least three times and have also soaked
the area in Kroil on both sides. It isn't pinned, staked or held in place in any way either by the factory or by any of its owners.
Honestly, it seems ridiculous that it hasn't succumb to will by now. Grrrrr...... But it will. ;-)

Rather than risk damage to the bluing, my next step is to use a 2.5mm end mill to split the nut and make a "C" shape
to allow for a few thousandths of flex / collapse before it inner diameter contacts the piece that is holding in place. I can
buy a new nut for about 5 EUR or tap the 2.5mm I created to accept an M3 set screw to keep it from collapsing. Kind of like
a rotary wedge.
As for the "C" shape, imagine a one piece clamp collar and how much they flex.

Look at images #4,5 and 6. They show a scope mount with a really cool feature. Dove tail mounts seem to various widths.
This particular brand has the normal screw to collapse and clamp onto the dove tail but it also has a tapped hole on one side only.
That allows you to install a screw into the mount and temporarily increase it's width. They are under $20.00 I believe.

I had a guy make me some no smith mounts for the French MAS 45. He made me a prototype and made the dove tail too narrow.
I was still able and willing to sacrifice the BKL mount to test the rest of the mount. Note the very tall slot and the side slots to
allow for flexure. Image #8 In that image, over the flat dove tail you will see some angles. Those are to clear receivers that have
a radii on them like an Anschutz. Most guns actually.....
The last photo is of his finished product. You removed the rear sight and installed the mount using the existing tapped holes.
I made those mounts because I was unwilling to drill holes in my action. I'm working on another cool mount for my Springfield
1922 Mk2.

It's from a Walther LGR air rifle and all it does is hold back some air pressure that was developed from a single pump of the
side lever. It's a low power, Olympic 10 meter gun.

Sorry I got off track.... BKL has a lot of useful mounts and adapters for rimfire and air guns.

Shawn

Have used a pencil soldering iron to heat screws for easy removal.

OFG

 

[AirGunShawn]

I have lost a msg from Rover31 from a couple days ago. About 5-4-2022 I got your email but cant find you on SH or in my PM. .
I hope you can get back with me on my email. See photo.

 

[Bryanbrnsn]

To answer original OP question. Acetone removes the blue gunk, its an allen key head, metric. I used to make new drop in trigger replacements, but stopped doing it as there wasnt enough market for it.

If you do a trigger job, check the safety properly. They had a tendancy to "let go" over time.
I stick to making alloy bolt shrouds, knobs and all sizes of pic-rails for the LA101 rather than trigger upgrades.

Do you have a link for any of the parts you make? Any chance you might make a few triggers?

 

[Rover31]

@AirGunShawn
Look in your PMs here, I also sent an email to you

 

[iceng]

Do you have a link for any of the parts you make? Any chance you might make a few triggers?

Im in Australia. Yes i have an export permit, not sure if thats what you want.

Parts are in red. Also extended mag latch. Notice the trigger shoe is much wider on this one.
We DONT make the triggers or mag latches any more. We do however make rails in left and right, from zero to 60moa.

 

[Bryanbrnsn]

@AirGunShawn
Look in your PMs here, I also sent an email to you

I don’t have a Pm or email